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Posted

Have several smaller parts for my current build that were made by 3D printing. Would like to paint these to look like metal (brass, bronze, chrome, aluminum etc.) I've heard that Velliajo makes a good product but is difficult to work with. Also have seen paint pens for this purpose. 

Asking for advice on a good product and  process. 

Current build: Hemingway's Pilar

Previous build: NRG Half Hull

Previous build: MS Bluenose 

Posted

Vallejo do various metallic acrylics for airbrushing and personally I haven’t found them at all difficult. They spray just like any acrylic.

 

I’m a big fan of acrylic metallic artist pens. For small parts I much prefer using a gold pen than spraying. It lays a thicker coat which seems to make the finish look more metallic. I’ve also used a chrome pen on model car parts, to good effect.

 

nb. Pretty much all my model parts are 3d printed but I don’t think that has any real bearing, the metallics work on many types of material.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

Posted
21 minutes ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

Vallejo do various metallic acrylics for airbrushing and personally I haven’t found them at all difficult. They spray just like any acrylic.

 

I’m a big fan of acrylic metallic artist pens. For small parts I much prefer using a gold pen than spraying. It lays a thicker coat which seems to make the finish look more metallic. I’ve also used a chrome pen on model car parts, to good effect.

 

nb. Pretty much all my model parts are 3d printed but I don’t think that has any real bearing, the metallics work on many types of material.

Brand?

Current build: Hemingway's Pilar

Previous build: NRG Half Hull

Previous build: MS Bluenose 

Posted

Pentel, Zieler, whatever they have in your local art shop or stationers should do the job. They are relatively inexpensive.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

Posted

I've used the Alclad line of airbrush metallic paints with generally good results: https://alclad2.com/

 

However, they don't seem to have brass or bronze, though I know their "pale gold" produces a really nice finish.   The highly shine colors are sprayed over a gloss black base.....I'd recommend against the alclad gloss black base and use the Tamiya LP-1 gloss black lacquer.  I tried the alclad gloss black base and it seemed to never completely dry/cure.

   

AK Interactive also make both metallic paint and a few metallic paint markers.  I've heard good things but never used either.  https://ak-interactive.com/

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Y.T. said:

As for gold and copper I can recommend paints shown on the pictures. I was pleased with the results. 
 

 

IMG_0788.jpeg

IMG_0789.jpeg

Beautiful work there!

Current build: Hemingway's Pilar

Previous build: NRG Half Hull

Previous build: MS Bluenose 

Posted (edited)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRvvVYMhZ2c

Metallic paints have several different types. The differences among pigment, dye, mica, and metal powder determine the characteristic of metallic paints. This knowledge will help to adjust your metallic paint properly.

 

---

 

I see. So the question is, what is a proper primer for 3D printed parts. I apologize for misunderstanding.

Edited by modeller_masa
Posted

So my plan right now is to use Alclad Polished Brass over Alclad Gloss Black Base on the prop shaft support to match, as close as possible, the brass prop and shaft.

I want to use Alclad Dull Aluminum for the anchor windlass, running light housings and vents but not sure what to use for a base coat. Any advice?

Screenshot_20251016_191505_Google.jpg.0a35b3177cf99985a7a5d0eaa40f3dc1.jpg

Current build: Hemingway's Pilar

Previous build: NRG Half Hull

Previous build: MS Bluenose 

Posted
1 hour ago, CPDDET said:

So my plan right now is to use Alclad Polished Brass over Alclad Gloss Black Base on the prop shaft support to match, as close as possible, the brass prop and shaft.

I want to use Alclad Dull Aluminum for the anchor windlass, running light housings and vents but not sure what to use for a base coat. Any advice?

Screenshot_20251016_191505_Google.jpg.0a35b3177cf99985a7a5d0eaa40f3dc1.jpg

 

Interesting....the polished brass is not listed on alclad's web site but it is available from other sellers.  I'd reconsider the alclad black base, see my comment above, though maybe you will have better luck with it.  I've not used the "dull aluminum" but the regular aluminum and semi-matte aluminum both produce a nice finish.

 

For the non-polished Alclad metal colors, I've just used generic medium gray primer.   I tend to use splash paints primer but others will likely work as well, including Alclad's gray primer/microfiller.

 

 

 

Posted

Ak´s Extreme Metal range works also very well, except for their black base, which like Gary mentioned never cures properly and stays tacky. Like Gary, I use Tamiya LP1 gloss black as a base for high shine finishes.
Your anchor windlass would be best painted with dull matte aluminum and AK has brass and bronze in their portfolio as well. They spray as perfect as Alclads, but are a bit more durable, when it comes to masking on top. Chrome and polished aluminum is a tad shinier with Alclad, but it´s only a fraction.

Cheers Rob 

Current builds:  Brabham BT45 by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9
                             MaschinenKrieger Friedrich by DocRob - Wave - 1/20 - PLASTIC - Another one bites the dust
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                            
Honda RC166 Mike Hailwood by DocRob - Tamiya - 1/12

Posted

I have found that the paint markers available these days are excellent.  I use these exclusively.   I usually flow a puddle onto a small palette and use a brush to paint the surfaces.   They work excellent.  You can find Gold, aluminum, chrome, brass and copper etc.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Markers-KERIFI-Reflective-Metallic-Permanent/dp/B09VXVYMF7?th=1

 

81u4HQ5OqJL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

I used a copper color to paint the top of the cupola for my Speedwell.  I didnt want super shiny so I buffed it after adding some light brown weathering powder.

 

 

 

cupola14.jpg

aftcabins1.jpg

 

Posted

The tinier the pigment particles are, the closer you get to a 'metal' look. In the old days I used to stir gold bronze paint really well and then let it settle for a while, after which I only worked with the small particles still floating on the surface.

 

I gather there is a similar effect with the marker pens, as in these the metallic pigment particles have to be really small in order to pass through the felt-tip.

 

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted
23 hours ago, wefalck said:

I gather there is a similar effect with the marker pens, as in these the metallic pigment particles have to be really small in order to pass through the felt-tip.

 

That makes a lot of sense. I certainly get a much finer metallic look with pens and they are my default now. I also really like that I don’t have the setup and cleanup of airbrushing, not to mention the risk of clogging, and I get pretty good mileage from them too. By the way, I buy spare tips for mine. Very cheap and it means I can cut, crush, shape tips if I want. 

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

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