Norwegian Sailing Pram by Taken Aback - Model Shipways - 1:12

[Taken Aback]

I've started this build, hot on the heels of the Grand Banks Dory, which is not quite complete: I have to finish the oars, tholes and seats. I've been working on those bits as I begin work on the pram.

 

So far I've assembled the build board, which went fine with the exception of my breaking the stern transom holder on test fitting the transom to it. A bit of cleaning out some char, a dab of PVA and small blob of patience and it seems to be holding. I drew a centerline on the board, per a few build logs, and the cut outs for the moulds and transom supports seemed to line up. Kenchington's build log with its wonderful pics and descriptions is guiding me through this stage. Thanks!

 

By using the hobby knife like a chisel I was able to pare away the bevels on both transoms and achieve some nice, crisp flats where required. I've found my ability to sand away material with a guide produces a less than perfect bevel. Paring then a very light touch up with some 220 paper produces the best results for me.

 

I don't understand why the stern transom holder isn't glued into the build board, as it is quite floppy and provides little to no lateral support for the transom. Anyone? I'm tempted to glue it in then saw it off when the board is no longer needed, as I did on the dory. As Kenchington did, I will be gluing mine in. His addition of a support for the stern transom knee was brilliant, so I will copy that. As it stands before gluing and mods:

 

[JacquesCousteau]

Great start!

[Taken Aback]

Some progress has been made, between several trips to a distant veterinarian's office for a couple of aging pets. Some vet can now afford a Vanguard Models HMS Indefatigable kit, and perhaps a few spare cannons. The pets are doing fine now, so, money well spent.

 

Anyway, I've added a stern knee support to the build board, as recommended by Kenchington's build log, and discovered that the knee itself wasn't perfectly perpendicular to the transom. Out came the alcohol, (isopropyl for the knee, Hendrick's gin for me) and off came the knee. A bit of fiddly sanding and scraping, back on it went, much more accurately with the centerline.

 

For beveling the bottom planks I found that, for me, carving away the bevel with the knife yielded a much crisper bevel than sanding, just as with the transom bevels. I have more control with a knife, probably from chisel work in the past, than I do with a sanding stick. As a bonus feature, it goes faster, as well. YMMV.

 

The bottom and keel planks have been bent into shape, after experimentation with various methods of bending. Steaming and soaking/drying didn't produce the results I wanted, and on this model where the planks are mostly "floating" in space without bulkheads, Chuck's ironing in situ didn't work well for me either. In the end, I used a combination of techniques, and got the planks shaped to my satisfaction.

 

The bottom boards are now glued at the bow, and waiting for the stern transom knee to cure completely before I glue them to the stern. The keel board is bent, sanded and ready to be glued into place after that. Checking that spot at the bow transom to plank interface will be crucial to see if I need to do any further fitting to achieve a tight joint, once I test fit the keel board.

 

My ability to take a decent pic seems to be quite stunted, but once the bottom boards are in place I'll give it a go.

[Taken Aback]

Inspection of the keelboard to transom joint revealed that the stern transom bevels for the bottom boards aren't cut low enough in relation to the tab that protrudes to the keelboard, in other words, there is a gap. Instead of rebeveling, which would have then require more rebeveling on the rest of the transom, I filled in the gap between the transom and knee to keelboard with a scrap, then scraped and sanded it flush with the bottom boards.

 

At the bow I did the same with the little triangle under the knee between the bottom boards. It wouldn't have shown at the bow, but adds a bit of strength.

 

After that, gluing up the keelboard didn't take much time at all, and I can now trim off the excess at each transom in preparation for the garboards.

 

After reading on some build logs about the gains which need to be cut in the garboards, I test fitted a garboard at the stem and made my attempt at a gain. Not sure if the pic will show, but I outlined my work with pencil to help with visibility. It fits well at the bow transom/garboard/bottom board joint now. Next will be the stern gain, which seems like it will be more challenging, given that the garboard seems to require a bit of twisting. Pondering now whether to bend and let dry first, then attempt the gain.

[druxey]

That gain looks very good! At the tip is should be whisker thin, though.

Edited November 26 by druxey

[Taken Aback]

Druxey, thanks! I will take another look at it. I can feel it slotting in with a bit of finger pressure.

[Bryan Woods]

You’re doing a good job. I would cut the gain when it was flat. Trying to think back when I did the pram, I probably didn’t cut them. Probably just put a bevel on them, thinking if I cut I would probably cut part of it off:-)

[Taken Aback]

Thanks, Bryan! It seems like cutting the gain on a flat plank would be the smart play, but that bend into place at the stern seems to need a bit of twisting, as well.

 

Decisions.

[Bryan Woods]

I’ve only been modeling for about two years. I’ve tried lots of way to bend the wood. My go to tool is a ladies hair straightener I bought at a thrift store for $3.00. I just mist both sides and run it through. Then clamp it to the hull making sure it where I want it , then let it set for a bit.

This is one I’m working on now.

 

 

I’ve gotten better at pulling up the plank as I pull it through, to get the bend as close as possible.

 

[palmerit]

I haven’t had much luck bending basswood (used in probably all Model Shipways and Midwest models) using heat (with something like a plug in plank bender). That work well - for me - with the harder woods (like pear) used in Vanguard models. I just wet the basswood with hot tap water and secure it in place with clamps and rubber bands (making sure the clamps do not directly touch the wood but with a scrap piece of wood between because the wood is so soft) and let it dry overnight. You wouldn’t want to try to glue even damp basswood (it soaks up a fair amount of water and glue doesn’t like wet wood based on experience and things I’ve read). 

[ubjs]

I'm building a Norwegian Pram myself now, but it's not going well. I don't get along with dory builds at all, I've tried Bluejackets before.

 

To all beginners who are trying to put together a dory and not succeeding, I can console you with the fact that it's much easier to build a regular hull with a little more real wood. I've built a number of hulls, Vasa, Bohuslän, Polaris, Spray, Lilla Dan. They're not fantastic builds but ok.

 

But putting together a Norwegian Pram, as I said, doesn't go well. I don't get along with this thin, soft wood.

 

When it comes to bending the hull parts for the Pram, I recommend the same as Palmerit.

I usually bend with an electric plank bender, but it doesn't work for the Pram, you get burn marks right away and also sinks in the wood.

[Kenchington]

Bending the pram's planks shouldn't be difficult.

 

Lay one in a baking pan (borrowed from the kitchen). Put a bit of weight on top to hold it down, when it tries to float. (Coffee mug works well for that.) Boil some water in a kettle (kitchen, again). Pour boiling water into pan. Wait a few minutes. (Set the cook's kitchen timer to ensure the wait isn't shortened.) Lift out the plank, blot it dry with paper towel, then bend it into place with fingers, clothes-pegs and large paperclips. Leave to dry, overnight if necessary.

 

Yes, thin pieces of basswood do need delicate handling, but that's something that those of us with big hands and more muscle than finesse have to learn!

 

Trevor

[Taken Aback]

Thanks for the great tips, all! Last night I used a baking dish, and hot water, weighted the garboard down and soaked for several minutes. Dried it a bit, clamped and banded into place, and this morning it looks great! 

 

Bryan, my wife has several (dozen) of those hair straightener dealios, I will surreptitiously borrow one and give it a go. What's the worst that could happen?

 

Will be gluing on the garboard today, and beginning to cut the bevels and gains on the other.

[Bryan Woods]

13 minutes ago, Taken Aback said:

What's the worst that could happen?

You would maybe have to make another plank:-) When I was doing the pram , I did as you are doing. .

 

[palmerit]

8 hours ago, ubjs said:

To all beginners who are trying to put together a dory and not succeeding, I can console you with the fact that it's much easier to build a regular hull with a little more real wood. I've built a number of hulls, Vasa, Bohuslän, Polaris, Spray, Lilla Dan. They're not fantastic builds but ok.

I started on the Vanguard Sherbourne and paused part of the way through - after having a tough go at planking it - to do the Shipwright Series (Dory, Pram, Smack). I was surprised at how different those three models really are - especially in terms of planking - from the Sherbourne (or other strip plank-on-bulkhead models I've worked on). These small simple (and relatively inexpensive) models do give you some practice at sanding, shaping, and beveling wood, which is useful certainly on large kits. But they face some unique challenges you do not have on larger kits. Building these also forces you to find creative solutions to clamping (clamps, rubber bands, clips) pieces of wood into place to dry and cure, which is also useful on large kits to be sure. I started these in part because I was a bit scared of the rigging on the Sherbourne. The Dory (at least the Model Shipways Dory) has no rigging, the Pram has minimal, the Smack a bit more. After finishing the Smack's rigging I felt like I could tackle with some research what to do on the Sherbourne.

[Taken Aback]

Palmerit, that was my thinking exactly, but as I have looked at videos and build logs, I see just how different the plank on bulkhead build technique is. But, I look at these Model Shipways builds as training, and am enjoying the process. But, I have been planning on ordering the Sherbourne for my first "real" model, before I begin the lobster smack, as a reward for training myself in the ways of this fascinating world.

 

It's nice to see fellow Tennesseans here!

[Taken Aback]

I took a look last night, and wasn't happy to see that the planks weren't centered on the bow transom. So, this morning I unstuck the bow transom from the planks and the knee, breaking off a sliver at the very bottom of the transom. Good thing Model Shipways knows me, as a spare is included.

 

I spent quite a bit of time truing up the knee and the new transom, and will glue it on later today, once I figure out how to get it jigged securely in the building board. I am tempted to glue the transom in with one drop of glue to hold it in place until the planks are set, then use my dear friend, isopropyl to remove the glue.

[Taken Aback]

Thank you all for the likes and suggestions!

 

Progress has been made. I did manage to get the bow transom trued and glued up, as well as bent and attached the garboards and second strakes on each side. I've been experimenting with various methods of gluing the planks on, and found that applying heat with an iron to more quickly activate the Titebond Original glue works best for me. I put glue on all surfaces to be glued, (the temptation each time is to glue the strakes to the molds and must be resisted) start at the bow, apply heat for about 20 seconds, then move my way along the plank. I use bands & clamps to hold each glued section as I move along, but so far I haven't really needed them. Nevertheless, I put them on.

 

Using this method I can get a properly shaped and prepared plank glued up in a few minutes, with much less fumbling about trying to get a clamp on just so before the glue has lost its mojo or just been absorbed into the wood. Also, I don't have to attempt the "lift the plank gently without breaking free the part I just spent five minutes gluing so I can dab glue into the tiny gap then quickly press the plank into place, and hold for an eternity, lather rinse repeat" method.

 

I did try out the electric hair straightener iron as suggested above, and I can see it working pretty well at times, great tip! By the way, I asked the wife if she had an old one she could spare, and she granted me two of them. One has flat jaws, one has a transverse curve across the face, which might be handy for a tight bend. Score.

 

Here is how the pram sits at the moment, waiting for the latest glue to cure before I apply the sheer strakes to bend and dry in place.

[Taken Aback]

The build got delayed a bit by a rather nasty cut I inflicted on myself, not in the workshop but the kitchen.  My wife had purchased a mandolin, which is French for: "mangler of the unwary". While slicing some potatoes I removed an alarming large piece of skin from the side of my right thumb, which required more than just a bandaid, or sticking plaster, or what have you. Eventually, I ended up with a large gauze pad taped around my thumb, which made working on a model rather difficult. Now, I'm able to get by with a simple bandaid, so back to work with safer tools such as scalpels and #11 blades.

 

As of now, the pram is fully planked and off the build board, with filling and sanding in progress. I'm trying various methods during this build to see what suits my abilities and preferences, so for filling small gaps I've tried mixing sawdust with glue and water, drywall spackle and Gorilla wood filler. The sawdust & glue method isn't my favorite as it leaves a lumpy surface which, while sandable, isn't as sandable as the spackle. Also, the spackle dries very quickly and is easy to control, seems to stay put in the gap where I want it. I have also tried Gorilla wood filler which is very gritty and dry. This is for larger home repairs, methinks. For me, for small repairs to surfaces which will be painted, I prefer spackle.

 

There really are only a few quite small gaps between planks and not much at all at each transom, other than one at the bow from when I didn't have the alignment quite right and overcut a rabbet. That one I mostly filled with a piece of wood. I think after sanding and painting the hull will look quite good.

 

Next up will be the skegs then internal frames, daggerboard box, etc. For now, I plan on making some tiny sanding sticks to get into the small spaces between planks and spending a bit of time smoothing everything out, to at least 400 grit.

[GGibson]

Your Pram is looking great, sir.  Excellent work!  And no visible blood stains from your culinary injury!

 

2 hours ago, Taken Aback said:

I'm trying various methods during this build to see what suits my abilities and preferences, so for filling small gaps...

 

I'm a big fan of Tamiya White Putty.  It is advertised primarily for plastic models but can also be used for wood application.  It has worked well for me.

[Taken Aback]

Thank you and thanks for the tip! I will give that Tamiya White Putty a go. 

[Taken Aback]

More progress has been made: the skegs have been added, as has the dagger board case and the 3 inner frames, and one inwale is now glued in place.

 

The skeg fitting was easy and quite enjoyable using the sandpaper on the hull method for shaping the mating surface. I added a centerline to the hull just aft of the dagger board slot for keeping the bow end of the skeg in line. The other two skegs also went on without trouble, giving the model a nice flat platform when upright.

 

I built the dagger board case by first clamping the two sides together, then sanding the bottom against sand paper placed over the slot in the hull, which quickly shaped them to the hull. Then I glued the case together in a few stages, first gluing one end piece to one side, using a square to keep the edges tightly aligned. After that set up, I repeated the process with the other end piece, then finally glued on the other side, which was trickier, as I had material protruding out of both the top and bottom.

 

I should have trued the top edge before gluing, as the bottom has to have the end pieces protruding thru the slot, but it went together well and glued in place easily.

 

The inner frames were more challenging, both in placement and fitment. Getting those pesky frames square transversely and vertically inside a hull which has virtually no vertical or horizontal surfaces is a bit of a chore. I think I did ok, although frame 2 might not be perfectly vertical. After reading some other build logs, I decided to check the fit of the mast step prior to gluing in frame 1, and I'm glad I did. I ended up moving my placement for frame 1 back a bit in order for the upper mast step piece to fit correctly. I'm currently working to fit the thwart to the hull before adding the supports, as other build logs have mentioned that getting it in place after both inwales were installed can be a challenge. Nearly there, sanding each end and fitting until it nestles in place.

 

The inwale was straightforward in bending, and fitting, very similar to the dory model. After several fit attempts, with associated trimming and sanding I had a very nicely fitting inwale. My apologies for the less than crisp pics.

 

[Kenchington]

Looking very nice!

 

Trevor

[Taken Aback]

Thanks, Trevor! Your build log is helping me with this build, very much.