Santa Maria by Kimberley - FINISHED - Revell - PLASTIC - 1:90

[Kimberley]

Here she is.  My new Santa Maria.  This will be my third ship, but I plan on doing all the painting on this ship.  Plus, doing the rigging correctly, and hopefully not end up with any extra parts at the end.    I am really going to take my time doing her.  I would greatly appreciate anyone's advice or help as I am working on her.  I am sure I will have a lot of questions.  Thankfully, I do have photoshop and can mark or write words on pictures that I post that might help show what I am trying to talk about.  Please cross your fingers for me.

 

 

[ianmajor]

Good luck with your build.

[UdoK]

Hello Kimberley

although I never did a plastic ship kit by myself I wish you all the best for your build and will follow.

 

In the Background of your Picture I can see you have a bunch of Vallejo model Colors. I used to work with them on my RC boats for weathering,always very happy with the result.

[realworkingsailor]

Good luck with this one. We'll all be here to answer questions as best we can.

 

Do you think you'd ever work up the nerve to try a wooden ship some day?

[Kimberley]

I got the parts washed tonight.  I bought all the acrylic paints I need today.  Plus, I bought a pin vise.  I also got some floss threaders today for the rigging string.  My mother's idea. 

 

I am practicing the paint on a junk boat I have.  I am also trying out the Tamiya thin glue.  I realized I really need to have some ventilation with it.  I will set up a fan.  I only have my xacto knife right now to cut off the pieces.  I need to also get one of those bigger cutter things I have seen you guys use to cut the thick pieces on the tree.  What are those called?

 

I have tweezers, scissors, files, paint brushes, needles, clothes pins, model master glue, elmer's glue, crochet hooks, exacto knife, Tamiya thin glue, pin vise, floss threaders, paints.  Can you guys think of anything else I might really need?  I do need to get a good ruler.  I am not so hot when it comes to geometry, so the math part is going to be hard for me.  I have problems with measurements.

 

Do you just work on your boats on the stand it comes with?  Oh, and do I glue the stand onto the bottom of my hull?

 

Now should I paint all the pieces first?

 

Oh yes, I will definitely do a wooden ship one of these days.

[realworkingsailor]

Wash and paint the pieces first. It may seem tedious, but it's worth it. As for a working cradle, I use one of these: http://www.bowser-trains.com/foamcradle.html

 

Andy

[popeye the sailor]

have fun with your new adventure......you can purchase wire cutters just about anywhere.  yes, you can never be too careful with some of the glues out there.     look forward in seeing your progress.

[realworkingsailor]

For sprue cutting: http://www.micromark.com/professional-sprue-cutter,9277.html

 

These things work great. Always keep the flush side towards the part and you'll have minimal part cleanup

 

Andy

[ianmajor]

Kimberley,

 

I am not familiar with Tamiya thin glue so my comments may be duplication and I may be stating the obvious.....

 

For most of the gluing of plastic components I use liquid (solvent) glues applied with a small paint brush. The two parts being fixed need to fit together well. The technique is to hold the two parts together (no glue on them), load the brush with the solvent then touch the joint with the tip of the brush. The solvent is then drawn in to the joint by capillary action. For long joints you reload the brush and touch at various points along the joint. You hold the joint together for a few moments then set it aside to harden - the parts my need support by elastic bands clamps etc if they are large.

 

It is so easy and quick which is why I like it ('cos I am lazy).

 

I also use the brush with the smallest amount of solvent on it to pick up small plastic surface components which I position with (say) a scalpel blade, then add a bit more solvent to fix the part. An example is simulated rivets - I do this by cutting 0.5mm cubes of plastic then attaching them as just described.

 

Take care not to touch the brush on the fingers holding the parts in place else the solvent will be drawn between finger and part by the same capillary action which will result in a nasty fingerprint cut in to the plastic surface. 

 

As the guys say - good ventilation is vital. In my teens I was a very happy modeler until I discovered I was getting high on the solvent. These days I am a much better ventilated but grumpier modeler.    

 

I would recommend some brands of glue but I don't know what is available in the US.

 

For attaching etched brass components I use liquid super glues where the joints are good. If the joint is poor and needs some filling I use 2 part epoxy.

 

Hope this helps.

Edited October 27, 2013 by ianmajor

[Kimberley]

Thanks for the tips and links.  I did get the parts all washed up.  I did get a side cutter today.  Andy, I really like the links you sent me for the stand and cutters.

 

I was still wondering.  Do I paint all the pieces first?

 

Ian thanks for the glue tips.  I think it is the way I am supposed to use the Tamiya glue also.  I am still going to play with that glue some more on scrap parts and play with the paint before I start the actual ship.

 

Just taking my time like you guys keep telling me to do.  Plan and think about things before moving forward. 

[Auvergne]

You will do just fine Kimberley...you have so many resources here on MSW and so many good people helping you. Be strong on the patience thing...I am learning the same thing. I see the professionals here on MSW and you know they take their time. And with the results any of us may hope for. I am following your build and you look set to go. Good Luck on you Santa maria build and we are all with you.

John

[Kimberley]

I got the hull painted today.  I really do like the acrylic paint.  I think I did a pretty good job.  I need to do a few touch ups, but otherwise I think it looks pretty good.  I am feeling more comfortable with the paint now.  It is not as intimidating as I thought it would be.

 

[Jeff-E]

Hi Kimberly,

 

Your hull painting looks really good, in answer to your question, as Andy says wash and paint and paint all the small pieces first before removing them from the sprue. They can be easily touched up after they are removed.

 

Remember to scrape any paint away from where they are to be glued as the glue will not stick to painted surfaces. Again they can be touched up when the glue is dry.

 

Take it easy and you will build a model to be proud of

[Ulises Victoria]

Kim: I hope I am not too late here .You should glue the two hull halves first, then use a fine jeweler's file to make the seams disappear, and then paint the hull. Always try to glue first and then paint components that form a single unit, that way you will make a more even paint job. If you paint and then glue, some glue will be pressed out and ruin your paint. Always try to make glue joints disappear, like those where the two hull halves meet or when masts come in two halves. Try to get a plastic filler to do this. After gluing, put some filler, wait for it to dry, then file with a very fine file or sand paper until you see there is no seam. The paint should cover the filler smear and leave no mark. This is a technique that requires a lot of practice and care, because you can ruin a part if you file or sand down too much. Maybe I am getting you into too deep waters, but hey.... all this is what differentiates a good built model, from an outstanding one. Hope this helps.

Edited October 30, 2013 by Ulises Victoria

[patrickmil]

Your painted hull halves look great Kimberly. When I was working with plastic models, I would sometimes paint first and then glue and sometime I would glue first and then paint. Either way is going to require some touch-ups here and there almost every time.

[popeye the sailor]

your paint looks very good..........everything can be done in any number of ways.  choose the best method that works for you and go with it.   your getting a lot of good advice here.

[Kimberley]

I am still not quite sure how to use the Tamilya thin glue.  Do I put the two halves together and then paint the glue along the seam?  I am used to gluing them together with model glue. 

 

Sorry Ulises.  I already painted the two halves separate.  I will do it right next time.  What is filler? 

 

Also, I can't use clamps to hold this together like I could with the USS Constitution.  What do you use to hold things, such has the two hulls, together for the glue to dry when you can't use a clamp?

[ScottRC]

I am still not quite sure how to use the Tamilya thin glue.  Do I put the two halves together and then paint the glue along the seam?  I am used to gluing them together with model glue. 

 

Sorry Ulises.  I already painted the two halves separate.  I will do it right next time.  What is filler? 

 

Also, I can't use clamps to hold this together like I could with the USS Constitution.  What do you use to hold things, such has the two hulls, together for the glue to dry when you can't use a clamp?

 

I personally do not like to use thin liquid cement for hull halves due to the stress the joint will be under when the deck is mounted.  I use 5 minute epoxy along the inside of each halve. If you have the old plastic tube cement, use that!

 

If I remember, the instructions have the hull halves and deck all assemble as one.  If this is the case, you can use rubber bands to hold the halves together against the deck.  Then spread liquid cement along the whole joint between the deck and hull on each side.  If the deck mounts later, get some tongue depressors or popsicle sticks cut to the width of the deck and put them in place to hold the hull halves in place of the deck with the rubber bands.

 

Don't worry about messing up you paint job.  you can always touch up later.   You have a really good, what I would call a base coat, for doing washes (layers of really thinned color to bring out highlights) that will give the model depth and balance.

 

One thing I have learned with using acrylics, they can scratch and flake easily.  I always give my model a spray of Artist Matt Spray.  This brand can be found at Walmart : Krylon #KR1303 - 11oz Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating.  Artists use it extensively when using acrylics and inks.  This stuff also hides glue marks and blends in brush streaks than tend to be shiny.

[ScottRC]

What is filler?

This is a putty that we use to fill in dents, small seams, and cracks.  You spread it over the area that needs filled in thin layers, then when it is dry, sand it so the blemish is blended away.

 

There are several kinds and brands.  Testor's white filler is common in hobby stores.  Its is kinda thick and chunky and I never cared for it.  There is also Squadron Green and White putty, green is thin and the white thicker.  Some hobby stores carry it and its also obtained from Squadron.com.

Then there is my favorite, I use good old Glaze Spot Putty by Bondo that you get at the auto parts store.  I like it because it comes out thin, but will thicken if you let it stand for a few minutes, and its easily available.

 

To apply it, I must caution and advise you get disposable gloves, because its not good for your skin and the best way to apply it is with your finger.

 

There is a book I like to suggest that is available through Amazon that explains just about everything you are asking.  How to Build Plastic Model Ships by Les Wilken

Edited October 30, 2013 by ScottRC

[Kimberley]

Thanks Scott for the tips.  I just found the book on Amazon.  I will get it.

[realworkingsailor]

I've used Squadron putty.... be damned careful with that stuff. (Sorry mods, I think that point needs to be made without euphemisms). 

 

The solvent is toluene which has all sorts of nasty effects.... not the least of which is finding yourself inadvertently higher than a kite.... Always use it in a very well ventilated space (forced air), and wear a respirator. 

 

Tamiya also makes a good filler that's a lot safer to use and doesn't produce as many toxic odours.

 

Andy

[popeye the sailor]

I shouldn't even bother to mention it....but in the event you buy it........it's the Testor's putty in a tube.   depending how old it is,  you need the knead the heck out of the tube to insure that it is mixed well before using.  I get it only because I don't use it that often,  which is another problem for this type of application.   it is a good putty though and sands very easily.

[UdoK]

 

 

Also, I can't use clamps to hold this together like I could with the USS Constitution.  What do you use to hold things, such has the two hulls, together for the glue to dry when you can't use a clamp?

 

 

 

Kimberley,

to hold pieces together you can use masking tape like the Tamiya tape available in different width.

[Kimberley]

I am still not sure why I need putty, but I am really glad you gave me an extreme warning on it.  Now I am not even sure I want to ever use the stuff.  I guess one of these days I will figure out why I need it.  Edward thanks for the tip on the tape.  Here is where I am with the deck.  I am even painting everything.   I am being very meticulous on this one.

 

 

[Ulises Victoria]

I am still not sure why I need putty, but I am really glad you gave me an extreme warning on it.  Now I am not even sure I want to ever use the stuff.  I guess one of these days I will figure out why I need it.  Edward thanks for the tip on the tape.  Here is where I am with the deck.  I am even painting everything.   I am being very meticulous on this one.

 

 

001.JPG

Hello Kim... One example where you may want to use putty, is the joint between your two hull halves. When looked from the front you will see a line where the parts joined together. That is something that for example, in a contest, will disqualify your model in the first round. I know you will tell me you have no plans to enter a contest but as I said before, anything you can do and start to learn to improve your models, will have a reward in your future builds. (And BTW, entering contests is the best way to learn and improve your models. At least, it was for me. )

Again, I congratulate you for your effort. Keep posting photos and above all have fun!!!.

 

On a side note, I have used putty extensively during my plastic building years and had no negative effects at all. It's all about using common sense when using it. And some kind of filler you will have to use in the future if you want to make better models, so why not start now? :)

Edited November 1, 2013 by Ulises Victoria

[popeye the sailor]

Ulises does make a good point.   there will be times where a separation line might not look too good.   as a lot of folks who work with plastic know,  sometimes the molds don't give such a square edge on parts.  dry fitting and sanding might take out most of it,  but corners and deck joints might still suffer.

 

your deck looks very good.....I did not see how this was assembled.......I had to look at it again.   cool!  it does have the cabin bulkheads 

            is there one for the upright at the bow,  or does the fore castle deck hide it?

[SteamWake]

Probably way to late for this but using "thin glue" I just put a drop in the gaps and let capillary action do the rest, hopefully you have them clamped and they can hold their position for 20 minutes or so. I use the liquid cement almost exclusively.

 

You're painting looks great. I am glad you like the acrylics. They take a little more care and sometimes a second coat but all in all they seem a little more 'organic' somehow.

 

As I said somewhere before sometimes acryrls do not stick to plastic very well so a coat of enamel primer may be in order. In any case when gluing plastic models its bare plastic to bare plastic. If there is any primer or paint on the surfaces to be joined scrape it clean, #11 blade or needle files works well.

 

Anyhow enjoying watching your build. Good luck and have fun!!!

 

ps; I think the putty they are talking about is this stuff!

 

http://www.micromark.com/SQUADRON-GREEN-PUTTY-46-OZ,6412.html

 

Be very careful with it!

Edited November 2, 2013 by SteamWake

[Jeff-E]

 Hi Kimberly,

 

Your decks look very good, looks like you have picked out all the details very nicely    

 

As for the filler I'm sure you will figure when and where and if you need to use it as you progress with your build  

[Auvergne]

Kimberley,

 

Your Santa Maria looks fantastic! You did a beautiful job painting her. You have a realism and antique look about her. I like very much!! Keep up the beautiful work you are doing. My goodness you have learned so much!

 

John

[Kimberley]

Wow!  Crackers thank you for the flowers.   Thank you all for the compliments and tips.  

 

Popeye I am not quite sure what the cabin bulkhead means (I even looked it up in our definition MS word document).  Does it mean where I have the cabin on top of the aft (I think that is the right term)?  The castle? deck partially covers the the bottom deck.  I hope I said that right.  There are so many terms I still need to learn.

 

Aha, I am guessing you have to have a perfect fit to be able to use the thin glue.  Am I right on that one?  The glue I am using gives me the ability to glue things that are not perfectly flush with each other.  Fluid, but fills gaps.

 

It would really be awesome to be in a contest, but I don't know if I will ever reach that point.  Of course, you never know.   I think I am catching onto what putty is.  Is it like the way they use putty on cars?

 

Here is where I am with my ship.  I am having so much fun doing this ship!