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Posted (edited)

Thank you all again for your kind comments and likes. You made me feel inspired enough to find time to do a bit more!

 

I have made and fitted the first strake of planking either side of the keel. This is the first time I have attempted spiling of planking. So far it's OK... I have had to remake one strake through impatience, and the fit of each is not quite as perfect as I would like. The following photos show the garboard strakes being glued in place. I will post some more once I have several done.

 

post-456-0-27256800-1401209783_thumb.jpg post-456-0-85038400-1401209784_thumb.jpg post-456-0-32268900-1401209786_thumb.jpg

 

The last photo shows the stern. You can see the ends of both strakes and the tick marks I put on the frames to define the widths of the planks. You can also see the stern planking, where I was a bit dim with the choice of wood! It's all cherry, but the first three planks are noticeably different in colour. I am hoping I can tone the variation down when I apply a finish.

 

post-456-0-76911500-1401209863_thumb.jpg

 

In case anyone is wondering I emphasised the joints between planks by rubbing both edges with a 2B pencil before glueing them in position. I think it's reasonably subtle.

 

Another thing worth mentioning, since I don't remember finding this point made anywhere else, is how to measure the tick marks quickly and easily. Most people cut strips of paper to the length of the frame between the keel and the wale, which is what I did as well. However it is usually suggested that the next step is a diminishing grid: a 'fan' of lines drawn from a common point and with the other ends set out equally along a straight line. Sufficient line are drawn so that the number of gaps between lines is the same as the intended number of strakes of planking. The idea is that you lay your strip of paper across the grid at a position where the ends of the paper just touch the outermost parts of the fan. You then mark off along the strip the intersections between the lines of the fan and the edge of the strip. This gives you a strip subdivided equally by the number of strakes. It works fine, providing you keep your strip parallel to the line used originally to set out the fan ends. If you put the strip at an angle then the spacing will vary.

 

I prefer to use a simple sheet of lined paper - it can be graph paper with a square grid, but ordinary ruled notebook paper works just as well. You need to place your paper strip at an angle across the lines such that each end is exactly on a line and the number of spaces between the two lines at the ends of the strip equals the number of strakes. then mark off the intersections as before and the strip will be evenly divided. Both methods are similar, but my method is quicker, because you don't need to make the diminishing grid, and there is a little less opportunity for error.

 

Rob

Edited by Decoyman
Posted

Nice to see some more progress Rob, and an interesting variation on the planking fan/grid.

Posted

I thought my explanation of how my alternative tick strip method works could do with some illustrations....

 

TickStrip 01.pdf

TickStrip 02.pdf

TickStrip 03.pdf

 

The first drawing shows the diminishing grid as it is supposed to be used: the tick strip is parallel to the setting-out line and the ticks are equal.

 

The second drawing shows the diminishing grid used wrongly. You can see the tick spacing varying along the length of the strip.

 

The third drawing is my alternative. Any strip length can be used and all you have to do is adjust the angle until the ends of the strip are a pair of lines the required number of spaces apart. The only proviso is that the line spacing should be less than the maximum plank width.

 

In each case there are 20 spaces along the length of the strip, representing 20 strakes of planking.

Posted

Great explanation with the diagrams Rob. That makes complete sense and seems a little simpler than the planking fan.

Posted

I just came across your log.  You have done a swell job.  Kudos for catching the mold before you got any farther.  I will be watching and learning.

David B

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Hi Rob,

only now I have your report found.

Had I seen it earlier, I would have had some problems less.
This is a fantastic model and a masterpiece. A very precise built model.
My chaloupe is however built in 1:48 scale.
 

Posted

Thanks Johann.

 

I've been following your longboat as well! Much better than mine, especially at a significantly smaller scale. On mine I'm still struggling to get the cherry planks to hold their bends well enough not to spring up and leave gaps, particularly at the front end.

 

Not that I've had any time to devote to it for the past few months....

 

Best wishes

 

Rob

Posted

Hi Rob.

 

Result in insufficent separating means.

( in deutsch: Ergebnis bei dem Ausformen durch ungenügendes bzw. zu wenig Trennmittel.

Gruss Karl

 

 

Hi Karl,

 

that picture really hurts, it`s like finding your boat up on the rocks after a hurricane passed through, I`m just thinking of all those hours of building and all in vain..

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Posted

beautiful work Rob,

 

it`s such a lovely fragile set of framing ribs, so clean and excactly built, well done

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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