Niagara by greatgalleons - FINISHED - Model Shipways

[greatgalleons]

the cannon ports are slightly bigger on the plans than are allowed for on the build,  I added a piece of wood to the tops of the bulkheads so I would have room to place some planking above the cannon ports as shown in the plans.   I made a cannon port jig to check for exact size for each port.

[greatgalleons]

framing the ports and sweeps

[Bill Hime]

Hello A.J.

 

I'm following with interest! Your right, a great little ship with a interesting history. Looking good so far! oh and I like your work area. After 20+ builds it should looked lived in, (a little Dr. Doolittle-esk) !

 

 

Warm Regards,

 

Bill

[greatgalleons]

so now I have to file down the gun ports and sweeps which are protruding out. these supports must be flush with the bulkheads on the inside and outer hull

[greatgalleons]

I notice that there is a gap between the planksheer and where the outer hull planking will be attached.  this is one reason why I have not painted the waterway and planksheers yet.   I will add some filler wood and file and sand them flush with the bulkhead also.

Edited November 20, 2013 by greatgalleons

[kenr]

Hi AJ

I think most of us have had that gap problem

Your solution is a good one

 

Regards

Ken

[greatgalleons]

Now is a good time to check the bowsprit piece.   the knight heads are too far apart, I've added more supports closer together to make sure there is a tighter fit.

[greatgalleons]

I have made some planking pins using a 1 1/2 inch straight pin.  Its bent and soldered at the bends in order to hold the planks onto the bulkheads while the glue dries. I have been using these pins for years on double plank builds,  keeps me from putting holes in the final planking. 

Edited November 21, 2013 by greatgalleons

[greatgalleons]

started on the transom planking

[Richard50]

What a great idea, I wish I had thought of that for my build. I following you build with interest.

[JerseyCity Frankie]

I was so tempted to get Niagara last time I saw it was on sale. Shes such a nice looking ship and there is so much available reference material on her. Brigs too appear to be so much more manageable, fitting into a smaller space but still giving you all that sail and rigging area. I'm wondering what my next project will be, I think I will have what I am working on done by midwinter at the latest and I have to think of something to build next. If I go with a kit I am certain it will either be Niagara or Pride of Baltimore.

[greatgalleons]

I use 400 grit sandpaper on each plank to round off the corners a little before gluing on to transom. 

[rfolsom]

Very nice!  And all in six days?  It took me 10 weeks to get from start to where you are...  Well done!

 

Bob

[greatgalleons]

Painted the waterways and planksheer,  I tried Humbrol paint but it was too thin a paint and did not cover the scorch marks from the lazer cutting.   I went with Testors Matt color since it was thicker and covered the scorched marks.

[greatgalleons]

Added bulwark piece end coverings around the cannon ports,   1/32 square on the outside , 3/64 square on the inside. 

these will be painted and then the pre-painted planking will be placed in between to form the bulwark planks.

[greatgalleons]

Pre painted planking to form the bulwark,  dark green matt color, and yellow matt color

[greatgalleons]

each plank is sanded a little with 400 grit paper and pre painted.  its easier to place a painted piece on the bulkheads than to try and cut in the paint with a small brush after its been placed.  I use  this technique on both sides.

[kenr]

Hi AJ

Going back to your comments about the Humbrol paints

I sand off the scorch marks and always apply white undercoat before putting the top coat on

The top coat could need 2 or 3 applications

 

Regards

Ken

[greatgalleons]

Well , I think that after seeing the yellow paint on the build I have decided since this model is for my personal collection I'm not going to use the colors suggested. I just don't like yellow or green on my ships. I have tried several colors and will post the updates as soon as I find a suitable and complimentary set I,m pleased with.

[edmay]

Hello AJ,Kens idea of some undercoat to help cover the burnt areas,my be a good way to go.I"ve found a thinner painting with more coats was bringing better results than the thicker paint,Just my 2cents worth,your progress and workmanship is looking real good,have a good weekend.Edwin,

[greatgalleons]

I noticed that the Niagara actually has a copper plated hull below the water line, I guess the green pain on the hull is supposed to simulate a patina copper hull, I may try some of the copper tape also. I'm using this Niagara as a practice model so I can get used to Modelshipways kits, I still want it to turn out nice but also get some experience in order to build the Syren after this.

Edited November 24, 2013 by greatgalleons

[greatgalleons]

I have decided to use a light tan color on the outer bulwarks and black on the inside,  and hopefully a copper plated hull

[rfolsom]

Great progress, A.J.  After closely examining the picture above, I do not believe that the current ship is coppered, because you can see the individual planks where the copper color is.  Also, the original ship was not coppered, as these ships (Niagara and her sister Lawrence) were built rather hastily and were designed for very short lifespans (I believe just the one battle of Lake Erie.)  As they were not ocean-going vessels, and had only a 9 ft. draft, copper would be an unnecessary and very expensive addition.  She would look good with a coppered hull, though, and it's your build...

 

~Bob

Edited November 25, 2013 by rfolsom

[greatgalleons]

a little further along here

[awoodnut]

I'm new to this site and being quite computer illiterate, I am really stumbling along here.

I don't know if the colors shown on your prints are the original colors or not. The colors shown are located on page 3 of the plans. I'm an absolute novice who is toying with the Niagara model.

[greatgalleons]

Hello   awoodnut,     I did not like the original colors of dark green and yellow, I have substituted black for green and light tan for yellow, this is purely a personal touch.

[greatgalleons]

starboard side

[greatgalleons]

I realize there are a lot of Niagra builds here on MSW with several techniques to creating the bulwarks. Normally consisting of placing the raw wood all in place and sanding down the finished area and then pain stakinly painting with brush or even airbrushing masked areas. I chose a different technique of pre painting the wood before cutting to size to fit onto the bulwarks because I,m just not as steady with a small paintbrush anymore.

[rfolsom]

Hi!  Did the same thing, (but not quite as good).. Are we in a race?  How do you do this so quickly? (elves....   Santa Claus....)

 

Very Good Work!

 

~Bob

[greatgalleons]

started the coaming and grating. the grates will be the natural color of the wood (sanded with 400 grit)  the coaming will be beveled and painted red.