Rattlesnake by scott larkins - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

[Martin W]

Great work, Scott -- your deadeyes all look even, which will really be satisfying when the rigging is done and the model is on display.  As for that last line, well, my recollection (I'm too lazy to walk to the other end of the house and look) is that I tied it off on an available cleat.  There ended up being a few others like it, and I just did my best to avoid having their ends float off in the air.

 

And as for the tautness of the shrouds, I think the really, really talented and experienced folks can get that right, but I find that just when I have one pair of shrouds taut (one shroud on each side), then the forestays or something else will pull them slack.  In the midst of the frustration you can find yourself getting a sense of the dynamics of the rigging, and appreciating what the captain had to understand.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[RevKB]

Scott, that is superb work ! Im looking forward to getting to that step, but alas im still on the hull planking.

 

Your ships is coming along beautifully

[scott larkins]

Okay, the shrouds are done.  I'm on vacation now until the 5th.  I have some things to do here and at my mother-in-laws house during the break but the rest of the time is marathon ship building.     Following are the finished lower shrouds.  Keeping them tight is definetly tough.  My continued recommendation is move with purpose and ease on these.  I did a lot of work with my lit maginfying glass in front of my face.  If you move too fast without thinking you could hit something or snap it.  No, I didn't snap anything...... yet.

 

 

 

Funny thing I discoverd when threading the mizzen mast.  My mast was too close the the inside hole of the platform and I actually had no room to thread the thread.  Damn.  Didn't see that coming when I was working on the platforms.  So take my warning now, before you get to the platforms.  Make sure there is day light between the masts and the inside hole of the platform.  I had day light but not enough for the thickest thread that is used for the shrouds. I ended up using a little drill bit to put a hole in the slot I had and then used the bit like a file to cut back and forth.  Then I used a small jewelers file to clean it up.  I don't think I comprimised anything but I sure could have.  Man was I upset with myself.  So don't make my mistake!

Edited December 17, 2014 by scott larkins

[scott larkins]

The rope marathon continues.

 

Here is the start of the bow lines.  I purchased hearts from MS but had to modify these a little with a jewels file.  No big deal.

 

Here's the final product.

 

Here's the upper heart on the ropes.  This will be threaded through the foremast according to the plans.

 

And here is the heart and half heart tied together according to the plans.  No real words of wisdom so far.  Just follow the plans and work from the back of the jib boom forward.

 

Next came the traveller.  Since we are not provided one in the kit I gave my best shot at making one.

 

I guess my traveller came out okay.  Seems to fit the bill at least.  Yeah, I supposed I may have gone without it but the plans call for the inner guys to be tied to it so I figured I have better not go without.

 

And the final bow ropes done.  As anyone would tell you, and the instructions do, be careful not to pull the masts out of line.  Either to the sides when putting in the shrouds or along the keel as you pull the ropes foward and back.  It's a delicate balancing act to keep the ropes looking tight but not pull the wood out of place.  I still have the other stays to put in place so we'll see how well I continue.  I can tell you one thing; that top gallant stay to the job boom gave me the most difficulty.  The three hearts up front took three attempts, and the dead eyes back by the bow took three tries to get them right.  That is such a tiny space to work in.  When  you get to this, I suggest lots of extra string between the dead eyes.  You'll understand when you get there.  Yikes the rope caused me heart ache.

Edited December 19, 2014 by scott larkins

[Martin W]

Hi Scott -- good save there on the traveller.  I also had to fabricate one, and then I found something ugly in Britannia that I think was probably the kit's version.  It was bad enough that even my rough attempt looked good by comparison.  Yours looks very neat.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[scott larkins]

Even though this is not in the actual build manual but when you look at the plans, there seems to be a pole right above the dead eyes.  The plans call for a pole but I put on a thin plank with cut out notches to fit around the shrouds.  I hope you like my solution.  Perhaps you'll use a pole but if anything, be aware that the plans call for this as you are startig the rat lines.  Pics follow.

 

 

Here is the pole/plank with the notches in it.

 

I simply fed a thread through the small space between the shroud and the top of the dead eye.  I made a figure 8 with the thread to wrap the pole and tie it off.  Simple but effective.  Next will be the actual rat lines.  The thread has been hanging for over a week so I hope it is good and straight by now.

Edited December 22, 2014 by scott larkins

[scott larkins]

Started my first rat line work.  Started with the mizzen mast since it was the smallest amount.  I suggest the two knots that are displayed in the instructional book right before the section on all of this line work.  The constrictor knot works really well but is a tad tricky.  Make sure you use lots of line when making these rat lines.  Do not cut off just enough.  You will need the extra thread in order to pull out the thread away from the shroud line in order to weave the rat line behind certain lines in the constrictor knot.  The extra thread helps.  You can always tighten up the extra as you tighten up the knot.  Once done, a little CA glue over the knot and you are set.

 

These lines are about 6mm apart.

Edited December 22, 2014 by scott larkins

[scott larkins]

Had to take a break from all of the tying of little knots,  Like my eyes were starting to cross LOL.  So I took some time to finish my life boat.  I decided to go with the whole shebang and tweak out the life boat. One of the things you have to think of when putting in the floor boards is a sub floor.  Basically you have to put planking across you boat at the ribbing.  The tough part, making sure the subfloor is all level.  Not an easy task considering you can't line up those pieces from a level view.  A lot of sanding will need to be done as seen in the last pic.  Once that is done you simply lay down the wood, watching for the curving of the inside of the boat.  As for spacing of the floor planks, I used the width of my smaller tweezers.  As for the seats, just follow the plans.  I actually photocopied the back seat, laid it over some wood, traced it and then cut and sanded to size.  The other issue to be aware of is making sure all of those seats are at the same level.  For that, just use a ruler from the top of the sides.

 

I also put in a hole for a small sail.  The plans seemed to show it but nothing in the instruction book calls for it so I figured, yeah, it's possible.  So I used a small strip of metal, bent it around the post and glued it to the seat where I filed in the notch for the small mast; which you can see in some of the pics.  And for anyone wondering, yes, my little boat does float and in an upright manner. LOL  Not sure why my pics came in this way.  I just got a new computer, so it was either my computer acting weird tonight of this site.  Oh well, you get the idea.

 

Edited December 31, 2014 by scott larkins

[JPett]

Ahoy Scott  

 

Impressive job on a very difficult part of this kit. It will be a nice addition to your ship 

 

Looking forward to seeing her deck side, and thx for sharing

 

Best wishes to you and yours in the new year too  

[JSGerson]

Very nicely done!

[scott larkins]

Thanks guys and happy New Year to you as well.

[Martin W]

Great work on the boat, Scott.  Now that's a task that will really make your eyes cross, so you might even find the rigging to be a relief.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[scott larkins]

Okay, the lower shrouds and rat lines are finally done.  Only 500 knots later. 

 

 

Here are the little hooks that the plans show where the footock lines hook into the platform deadeyes.

 

Edited January 25, 2015 by scott larkins

[scott larkins]

Looks like my computer is going to act weird so I'm going to have to make a single post for each pic.  Sorry.

 

Here are those little hooks once they are attached to the footock lines.  I used a single shinge on this.  It was a little tricky getting those lines tied.  I had to first tie a simple shoe knot around the line, feed it through the hooks eye, then through the shoe knot and tighten the knot.  I left extra string on both ends. I then used a cloths pin to hold the footock line and one end of the shinge string.  I the wrapped the singe string around the bottom of the hooded footock line and pulled that extra string down into the cloths pin.  I then held all of the lines with one hand and moved the cloths pin to the cover the hook.  Then tied the two ends of the singe line together.  I think it worked pretty well.

Edited January 25, 2015 by scott larkins

[scott larkins]

And this is how they looked once I hung them all in place.

 

 

Edited January 25, 2015 by scott larkins

[scott larkins]

And then tied to the shrouds.  Yeah, wrapping those futocks around the futock bar was not easy.  I first did a loose standard shoe knot around the shroud line in which I would feed the futock line through.  I really needed both pair of tweezers and my magnifying glass for this.  It's a balance between pulling the futock line too tight, finding a way to keep it in place tightening that shoe knot so the futock line stays in place.  Then I snaked the futock line through the rat lines to hold it in place as I wrapped the line around the shroud and futock to shinge it in place.  I had to do this twice for each line.  At least that is what the plans called for.  I used regular sewing thread for shinging this time.  I felt that little area was just too tight/small for anything else.

Edited January 26, 2015 by scott larkins

[scott larkins]

And a side view of the same thing.

 

 

Edited January 25, 2015 by scott larkins

[scott larkins]

And finally with the rat lines in place.  Sorry for the photo.  With all of the black up there it is hard to see the finished product.  In my opinion, this area came out okay but not great.  It is very difficult to work up there in such tight quarters.  The plans called for three rat lines but there was no way I was going to be able to do that.  Either I messed up on the futock bar placement of the scale in which I am working just didn't make that possible.  But I was able to squeeze in two lines. Oh well, food for thought for those following.

Edited January 26, 2015 by scott larkins

[scott larkins]

Well, after 10 weeks of blood, sweat and tears....... okay, maybe just tears, the shrouds and rat lines are finished on my Rattlesnake.  Pics and explanations to follow.  With just over 800+ knots tied they are all done.  Here is a pic of the lower shrouds. If you go back to the previous page you'll get some explanation on how I got to this point.

Edited February 26, 2015 by scott larkins

[scott larkins]

Here is the next level up shrouds.  This is the top of the upper shrouds and the top most level of the mast.  Here the shrouds start down at the platform where I used bullseyes.  The plans don't actually call for the use of bulleyes but I didn't know what else to use and these seemed to fit the bill.  Like the lower bulleyes, I used brass wire to "tie" the bulleyes to the deadeyes, tied the bulleyes together.  But before tying the eyes together I first tied the upper one to a shroud line and singed the line.  I kind of used the deadeye tying method here where I tied the line above the eye, wrapped it twice through the set of eyes and then back up above the top bullseye.  Then I thread the line up behind the upper shroud, through the cross tree, up to the top of the mast and around it.  Then back down through the tree, behind the shroud and to another bullseye.  Then once the rope was tight I used another thin thread to singe the top of the mast together.  You kind of have to put this knot up top as your wrap the shroud around the top and play back and forth between the top and the proper length so the bullseyes are the same height.  I hope that makes sense.

Edited February 27, 2015 by scott larkins

[scott larkins]

Next a view from the top.  For the most part the upper rat lines tie the same as the lower.  Of course each knot received a small dab of IC glue. The one added difficulty in tying the upper shrouds was the backstays getting in the way of my tweezers.  Perhaps that was just my issue.  Being right handed it was really only an issue when the backstays were on the right as I was tying.

 

 

Edited February 27, 2015 by scott larkins

[scott larkins]

Found my pic up the upper deck, deadeyes and bullseyes.  Try not to laugh at the mess.  Small area to work in. I'm sure the rest of you will knock my socks off.  See previous explanation.

 

 

Edited February 27, 2015 by scott larkins

[JSGerson]

Just for your info, the Mamoli plans show a brass ring where you used a bullseye. Who's right, I haven't a clue.

[sport29652]

Scott I think you did a great job, and are knocking our socks off. Rigging is not easy and only gets harder as you go up the mast. Keep it coming Sir I enjoy and learn from you every step of the way.

 

PS, I read what JSG put down, and I have noticed a number of differences between MSW, Mamoli and Hunts build. I always default to the MSW plans they seem to be more..... realistic/accurate (I hope). After all Mamoli sells fictional ship kits who's to say they don't fudge with ship plans. As for Hunts practicum, someone maybe you or JSG said he seemed to be rushing towards the end of his snake build, I couldn't agree more. The Constitution build he did is top notch but the sake...ehhh. BWT I have all of his practicums if you ever need any of his stuff.

Edited February 27, 2015 by sport29652

[scott larkins]

Thanks guys.  JSG, I wish something in the instructions gave me a clue on those.  My plans only show a ring shape.  Since I have to put some bullseyes in the shrouds near each section top to run the running rigging, I just ordered more and used them.  But then, aren't these kind of things that make each of our builds unique. LOL  And if I was actually going to follow the plans, where I have bent brass, those should be ropes. However, I could see no way that those bullseyes would ever stay in the shape they are supposed to.  Thus my continued use of my brass wire.  Maybe a little less realistic but for me, practical.

Edited February 28, 2015 by scott larkins

[JSGerson]

Sport - Because I have the plans from Mamoli, MSW, Harold Hahn (Robert Hunt) , and the Smithsonian I can see numerous variations. Looking closer at the MSW plans, the "rings" are labeled "thimbles" and the MSW plan shows what a thimble looks like. What it doesn't say is what the material is. As near as I can figure out based on my "google" research, thimbles were made of metal. So according to MSW you are partial correct. Your wooden "bullseye" should be (?) metal but not a ring as shown in Mamoli. The others plans don't specify the material for this item. Were rings used, were bullseyes used, or thimbles? Your choice.

 

Scott - it was my build log which lamented that Hunt's Rattlesnake Practicum was rushed at the end, but as I have stated numerous time in different log comments, I could not have built my model without his help. I too have most of Practicums. He had a "sale" a few years ago in which he was selling all of his practicums for the price of one. Since I was and am still planning on building the USS Constitution, I needed that practicum so I ended up getting all that he was offering.

 

When I get to the Futtock Shrouds I will be taking a crack a silver soldering to make the Futtock Plates. Having never done this before we will see how it goes. If unsuccessful, I will probably follow your lead.

 

Jonathan

[scott larkins]

Good luck with the soldering, if your skills continue there as they have for the wood, you'll kill it.  I look forward to seeing your choice of construction.

[KenW]

Hey Scott. Just checked out your log and your model looks great. I hope I can to as well.

Cheers.

[scott larkins]

Starting the running rigging now.  I decided to start with the jib boom and the spirit sails.  The instructions start with the masts first but as you all know, the instructions are more like guidelines anyways.  I started the spirit sails and got as far as stringing up the spirits sail braces when I realized I goofed.  Not majorly.  I was trying to think ahead like I've said before, but this time I was not thinking far enough ahead.  If you follow this log, I suggest you put on the fore mast lower sail.  The braces for the spirit sails have to be strung up behind that lower yard arm.  That is why that yard arm needs to be up.  Cost me about a weeks worth of time to correct it.

 

Also, I'm finding that you need lots of extra string when tying the running rigging to the pins and cleats.  You end up cutting a lot of string off once you are done with the tying, so be aware of that.  It kind of disappointed me but it is what it is.  Anyways, pics and explanations follow.

[scott larkins]

Here is my starting point for each part.  Since I am furling my sails, as per the instructions, you cannot cut a full piece of cloth.  It would simply be too bulky.  As per the instructions, cut about 1/3 size.  I then marked the stitch lines with a fine tan marker.  Due to the scale and really, the lack of cloth, I found stitching too difficult.  Since the sails are furled I felt it would be a sacrifice I was willing to make.

 

 

Edited March 27, 2015 by scott larkins