US Frigate Essex by trippwj - Aeropiccola - 1:70 Scale - POB

[bigpav]

Hey Wayne great job on the fix! I'm very excited about this build and how you progress with it. Hope you don't mind if I pull up a chair for this one.

[Bindy]

No worries there - Brett (my young starving artist son) will be handling the fine detail painting on this one!  I'll do the drinking while he paints.  May even have a piece of cake with the Jenever!

 

I do admire a good strategy haha

 

(And congrats on the fix!)

[popeye the sailor]

good to hear that you sorted out the keel problem.   now.....on with the planking! 

[trippwj]

Greetings, all.  Have taken a tip from the Master of Cotton Balls (Sjors) and will be trying to split my time a month at a time amongst builds.  The Essex will now be relgated to a shelf for the next month whilst I get back to my sorely neglected Emma C. Berry.  Here, then, are a couple of shots of where I am on the Essex.

 

I am prepping the hull for the first planking - nearly done with the fairing, still need to cut the rabbet along the bow area.

 

 

Question - since there is no "false deck", would it be prudent to add some additional deck beams to support the deck planiking, or would that be creating work with minimal benefit (see drawing of kit structure below)?

 

 

Meanwhile, Brett (my son) has been tackling the detail painting for the stern decoration - not done yet, but progressing.  He has all sorts of cool artist supplies, and found that one of his very fine artists pens was perfect for getting the tiny details around the scroll work to look better.

 

 

Still more to do, but looks a lot better than I could ever hope to accomplish!

 

So, until June (unless I decide to move the Harriet Lane back to the rigging table), that's it for now!

[augie]

On the false deck question.....  I think a lot depends on what planking you'll be using for the lower deck.  I've used 1/8 x 1/16" basswood at 1:64 and it came out fine.  A harder wood like boxwood would have been even better.  As to adding deck beams, it's a judgement call .  If it makes you feel better (and doesn't interfere with anything) go for it!  Let us know what you decide.

[rafine]

I have used 1/16" thick holly planking without any sagging or other problems. There seem to be enough bulkheads to make that work, provided that all of the plank joints fall on the bulkheads. 

 

Bob

[trippwj]

I have used 1/16" thick holly planking without any sagging or other problems. There seem to be enough bulkheads to make that work, provided that all of the plank joints fall on the bulkheads. 

 

Bob

 

Thanks, Bob.  That is really my concern on the deck planks - at scale, the bulkheads are the equivalent of about 12 feet apart - a bit far for the butt shifts.  Actual practice would have had beams about 36 to 48 inches apart on the gun deck, with additional stringers (probably not the right word) about 16 inches apart in between the beams (based on the framing diagram from Takakjian). 

[popeye the sailor]

looking great Wayne........looks to me like there are enough frame there {ribs} to do a fairly decent butt shift pattern.  do you intend to plank around the deck line before you plank the deck?   pieces could be used around the inner edge for the ones that won't fall on a rib frame.  that's a call you'll have to make when you get there       looks really sweet!

 

your painter is really good!..........extra rations for that man!

Edited May 5, 2014 by popeye the sailor

[Beef Wellington]

Wayne, this looks like a very interesting kit, haven't seen to many similar kits with the provided moldings.  Shame this kit isn't availalble anymore.  Are you planning to drill out the window panes in the stern fascia?

[popeye the sailor]

you know Wayne......looking at the frame again........if your going to add planking to the inner bulwarks,  you could get away with doing some scratch work,  and make a platform for the deck.   they do have 1/32 thick flat stock you can use for it.  this would solve your dilemma and you could plot any pattern you wanted

Edited May 23, 2014 by popeye the sailor

[trippwj]

Wayne, this looks like a very interesting kit, haven't seen to many similar kits with the provided moldings.  Shame this kit isn't availalble anymore.  Are you planning to drill out the window panes in the stern fascia?

 

Hello, Jason - thanks for stopping by!  It is a very nice kit - definitely a kit for someone with more experience as there are no directions, just drawings on the plans sheets.  need to be planning each step as i go.

 

Still debating on the windows.  My resident "starving artist" is contemplating the right color choices to try and paint them, may do one to see how it looks.  I am starting to lean toward drill out the window panes and try some filler of some sort.  Will keep you posted!

[trippwj]

you know Wayne......looking at the frame again........if your going to add planking to the inner bulwarks,  you could get away with doing some scratch work,  and make a platform for the deck.   they do have 1/32 thick flat stock you can use for it.  this would solve your dilemma and you could plot any pattern you wanted

 

Good point, Denis.  I will be thinning down and the bulwark posts (upper part of frames) and planking the inside of the bulwarks, so going with the false deck underlay might work.  I'll need to do some checking on dimensions, though, as I may need to replace the planking strips that came with the kit if I use an underlay.

 

Thanks for the idea!!!

[popeye the sailor]

you could use 0.7 thin strips for the planking.........you might even be able to get 1/64 flat stock for the platform.  you wouldn't have to do deep notches for the posts...just enough so you wouldn't see any gaps.   if you have trouble finding thin strip planking,  you can always cut your own.   just a thought,  my friend  

[mobbsie]

See what happens when you throw an artist a crust of bread, she's beginning to look good mate.  

 

You've got to drill those windows out, I cant believe they still make moldings like that, it would add so much more to the finish.    

 

Your choice mate.   :D  

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

Edited June 9, 2014 by mobbsie

[riverboat]

Wayne if you decide to drill the windows  out ( which is a good idea!! ), you can use Window Glaze from MicroMark, Augie used it on his windows on his present build and they came out really good. Just some food for thought...... and tell your son he's a very neat painter!!  

 

Frank                            

[trippwj]

Wow - I had not realized that it has been over a month since I gave any update!  Sorry about that!

 

Have not gotten a huge amount done - my very special grandson has been here for the summer, so have been spending most spare time doing stuff with the boys.  Between whale watching, Independence Day, the British Invasion and visits to other nations (Campobello Island, Canada), along with cleaning up from our hurricane, not a lot of time in the build yard.  I have, though, made a small bit of progress.

 

First, I have, indeed, gotten my first planks on the hull installed.

 

Not the best looking, but since this will be double planked I am not terribly upset.

 

View from bow - on (not quite in line, but follow the deck line nicely).

 

View of stern (tough to see, but it is planked under there).

 

View along the starboard side from the stern.

 

I also placed an order with Bluejacket (local to me, so gave them a try) for some 1/64' ply for the false deck.  Delivered in 3 days, very nice looking stuff.  So, I started on the false deck.

 

Since there were no good plans for the deck itself showing the bulkhead locations, I started by taking off the dimensions for each bulkhead (with great thanks to the Admiral, who lent her support to the cause).  I captured the maximum diameter of each bulkhead (fore and aft face), the minimum width inside the hull, and the distance from fore of one to fore side of the next aft (all were the same thickness).

 

Transfered these onto a large sheet of paper

 

Faired the lines with a ships curve. Note the gap indicated at frame 2 - it exists with the first planks I put on.

 

Verified the fit of the sheet into the hull after trimming out the bulkheads, then used this to shape and fit the plywood false deck.

 

Once that was done, I then used the plywood to trim a printout of the deck plans - will use this to in turn place the various deck openings that need to be made in the false deck before I install it to the hull.

 

So, that's where things are right now.  Continuing to work the Essex for another month before switching back to the Emma C. Berry.

 

Suggestions, observations, recommendations are always welcome!

[augie]

We missed you Wayne...but hope you're having a great Summer.  False deck looks great.

 

Question -  on that forward capstan, what is the approximate length of the capstan bars?

[trippwj]

If I were to believe them to be accurate as drawn, 3 feet on both capstans. I do not think that is correct. I need to do some checking in other sources to see what they use.

[augie]

Thanks.  I'll wait to see if you find something else.  The reason I ask is that someone is looking for some guidance on that exact point.  Once I have an answer I'll try to remember who asked and get them the info.

[trippwj]

Thanks.  I'll wait to see if you find something else.  The reason I ask is that someone is looking for some guidance on that exact point.  Once I have an answer I'll try to remember who asked and get them the info.

 

Augie -

 

The only reference specific to the Essex I found that gave the length was in the Anatomy of the Ship volume, they measure out to be about 12 feet for both capstans. 

 

I have found a couple of other references, though, that may be of use (and agree well with the length shown by Portia Takakjian in the AOTS)

 

In the Humphreys papers, he lists the bars for a 30 gun ship as being 10 feet, and for a 40 gun ship 12 feet (appears to be from the 1719 Establishment).  Steel lists them as being 11 feet for a 32 gun frigate, and 11' 6" for 36 and 38 gun frigates (Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture). 

 

All of these dimensions make a great deal more sense - 3 feet would not provide any great mechanical advantage when the capstan is likewise 3 feet in diameter at the head.

 

Hope that helps!

[augie]

Thanks again, Wayne.  I've hooked up the fellow who sent the inquiry to your log.

[Bindy]

Have not gotten a huge amount done - my very special grandson has been here for the summer, so have been spending most spare time doing stuff with the boys.  Between whale watching, Independence Day, the British Invasion and visits to other nations (Campobello Island, Canada), along with cleaning up from our hurricane, not a lot of time in the build yard.  I have, though, made a small bit of progress.

 

Thank you for the update on your log Wayne, but it sure looks like you having a great Summer.  Enjoy every minute!

[trippwj]

Gracious - time has certainly flown by this summer!

 

Not a huge amount of rogress to report.  Have been far too busy doing things with the family when not working the paying job.  Alas, that is all coming to an end.  Brought my "other son" back to Arkansas this week - up side there was I got to see the other two grandkids!  Son the elder leaves the nest (well, sort of) tomorrow - off to college he goes.  Living on campus - not sure how we will handle not having any kids in the house (first time in 20 years).

 

Anyway, have cut out the openings in the gun deck for masts and gratings and installed the false deck into the hull.

 

 

Centerline aligns well, and the openings match the plans well.

 

 

So, at least until the end of September, the Essex will go into ordinary and the Emma C. Berry will move back onto the build table.

 

 

Thanks, all, for the kind words and for following along - see you over at the ECB build log!

[popeye the sailor]

so....you made the false deck platform? came out great! planked over.....butted up to the inner bulwarks, is gonna look super! are the inner bulwarks planked as well? if they are, that will be just icing on the cake!

[trippwj]

so....you made the false deck platform? came out great! planked over.....butted up to the inner bulwarks, is gonna look super! are the inner bulwarks planked as well? if they are, that will be just icing on the cake!

Good morning, popeye.  Took 2 tries to get it looking the way I wanted, but not too shabby a false deck.

 

The inner bulwarks will be planked, with a waterway for transition to the planked deck.  The lines on the false deck are my guides for when I plank it - they are about 4 scale feet apart based on the info in the Anatomy of the ship and the Frigate Essex Papers.

[mobbsie]

Still a ways to go mate but she's looking real good so-far.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[popeye the sailor]

good on you! yea.....having a false deck can be quite a plus......especially when it comes to staggering planks. the every other one.......every other two, is Ok........but if you wanted to go any more than that, it's almost impossible. now you can do any method you want! your even going to be able to pre map the deck layout......only for a short time though.....once you plank, it's all gone!

 

the only build I didn't have a deck platform for was the Susan A. I ended up making some goofs on the planking, and the only aspects that were mapped out, were the cabins. I also had to frame for the margins and the aft deck. it just makes the deck work easier

[augie]

I'm with Popeye on this.  My Syren didn't have a false deck and that caused some minor alignment issues with the planks.  Your Exxes and my new one both have the false deck and I know you'll find it a pleasure to work on.

[trippwj]

Good afternoon.  Hope you have all had a pleasant weekend.

 

Have finished the workshop reorganization to transition from the EC Berry to the Essex and, wouldn't you know it, before I even start generating saw dust I have a challenge I need some help with.

 

Based on the plans, I need to reduce the thickness of the upper parts of the bulkheads by about 50% (not positive on all of them yet!)

 

There are only a few bulkheads shown in the cross section to pull dimensions from.  Bulkeads 4 and 8 will need to be reduced fairly substantially (see plan extracts below).

 

 

The problem, for me at least, is 2 fold.

1.  How do I do it?
2. How do I determine the dimensions for the remaining bulkheads?

One thing I am considering, and I can hardly believe that I am saying this, is to remove the tops of the bulkheads (cut them flush with the deck level) and scratch build bulwark stanchions to replace them.  I would be using information in the AOTS and other POF plans for the Essex to do this.

 

 

Is that a viable option (I only have a 16 inch scroll saw and a dremel - everything else is hand tools)?  Is there a better way to do this?

[augie]

Wayne - just to be clear.....you need to reduce the width of the stanchion at the cap to 2mm and at deck level to 4mm?  This is quite common and I ran into it on both my Syren and Confederacy (different dimensions, of course).  The way it was done was to mark the finished thickness with a pencil line on both sides of the bulkhead then leave them alone and mount them as is ---- they can be quite fragile even at the unfinished thickness.  Once the hull outer planking is complete the stanchions have quite a bit of support.  It is at that time you sand them down to the final required thickness.  Actually, you don't even need to mark them as you can measure a finished thickness off the plans including the thickness of the outer hull planking and use a pair of calipers to check as you sand them down.  I won't kid you ---- sanding that curve is a bit of a bear but it can be done if you work slowly.  As you are really 'fairing' the inside of the hull, you can use a plank to check your progress just as you do on the outside fairing.

 

Don't just take my word for it though.  See if you get some alternate suggestions.