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LPH-11 USS New Orleans by Spaceman Spiff - Iron Shipwrights - 1/350 - RESIN


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Not sure - I’ll measure when I get home and show pics. All of that will be hidden under the water/waves. I’ve made an at-sea dio before using celluclay  - forming/shaping and covering with diluted white glue. Painted/dry brushed and covered with future. Looked pretty good. 

 

Tonight I’ll tape down flight deck and start that process. Once it’s built to shape, then I will relocate doors, platforms, etc. 

 

i really like that idea you gave me. 

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I've done the hot water trick (and hair dryer trick) on thinner resin parts and things worked out just fine.  My parts again were much much thinner and had a bit of flex to them. Your resin looks a lot harder with little flex, and anyway the hull looks way too thick to get any bends out of it at this point.

 

First question though - do you know if the deck is supposed to be perfectly flat, or is there supposed to be a slight camber to the deck at the bow and stern?  That could be why the hull is shaped the way it is.  Though, in your pictures in post #44, the top of the hull doesn't seem to have a smooth line - straight or curved - but had what looks like little valleys that don't conform to the general line of the top of the hull.

 

That being said, if the hull is the problem (i.e., the deck is supposed to be perfectly flat), I'd try to sand the middle section down a bit so that the deck fits a little better.  I'd then glue down the deck with two-part epoxy.  Once cured, I'd glue in plastic card shims, use a two-part epoxy putty like Tamiya's to get all the tiny gaps filled, and then sand everything so that you have a smooth hull.

 

If the deck actually needs to have a camber to it (i.e., the hull is correct), I'd try the hot water technique to get a curve in the deck.  Then I would use a strong two-part epoxy to glue down the deck while it is clamped to the hull.  

 

Good luck!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you have an actual bathtub, you can fill it with really hot water and submerge the model in it and apply pressure to take the bend out that way.

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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