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  • 6 months later...
Posted

Any word on the plans for this AWESOME build? This has really inspired me to buckle down and get to work!

 

I built this ship back in the '80's,bread and butter up to the main deck,the framed up the rest of the way. I lost her in a divorce,and would love to build her again.

Posted

Hi Pathfinder,

 

The Washington is a lot of fun to build and results in a respectable model. I am glad you like my model.

 

Jeff has been busy at his ‘day job’ and working on the plans. More information will be coming later. You will be amazed at the amount of details in the drawings.

 

Mike

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Hi----Just getting started in building the Washington. haven't decided on what wood to use, maybe maple? Swiss pear and boxwood seems quite expensive. This is my 1st  framed model, however I've built several pob models. I've sent  for and received the Washington plans and downloaded the instructions, and built the mounting board. Mikes pictures of his Washington build is really helpful so far. 

      Has anyone used Maple to build? (hard or soft maple) does it like danish oil as a finish? so many questions-----------------Lacy

Posted

Hi Lacy,

 

Welcome to the site, building the Washington is a very enjoyable project.

 

You could use maple and it takes a nice finish using Danish oil. I like to use European Beachwood for the framing it is easy to work with hand or power tools and looks like oak when finished with Danish oil.  Read through the build log I identified the different woods used for this build.

 

If you have any questions I will be glade to help. If you start a build log in this forum you can get advice from other members that are starting their builds of the Washington.

 

Mike

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Mike - 

 

Just found and read your build log.  You have done a very creditable job on the model.  Your stove and belowdecks details are top notch.  You should be justly proud of your work.

 

I did have one question, though.  I looked at the plans and read the monograph by Jeff Stoudt and am confused by the number of gunports.  The contemporary watercolor by Charles Randle seems to show only 5 open gunports in the waist, rather than the 9 along the length of the ship as shown on the plans.

 

post-3092-0-28919600-1436971333_thumb.jpg

 

post-3092-0-21618600-1436971374_thumb.jpg

 

This agrees with the known armament of the Washington, which included only 10 long guns, which would have 5 mounted in each broadside.  Since the ship was purpose built during the prior few months, wouldn't gunports match the available cannon?  Why add gunports that weaken the structure and don't add anything to her fighting qualities?  If all of the long guns are put on one broadside surely their weight would tip the ship down and make the guns unusable.

 

I know that the Stoudt plans match those of Howard Chapelle (History of the American Sailing Navy, p. 108), but he is silent on his sources.  There is a reference to the lines of the Washington being taken off after her capture, but I have never seen them reproduced.  

 

Do you, or does anyone reading this, have any thoughts about this question?

 

Thanks

 

Dan

 

 

 

 

Current build -Khufu solar barge, c. 2,560 BCE, a cross-section model at 1:10 scale

 

Prior scratch builds - Royal yacht Henrietta, USS Monitor, USS Maine, HMS Pelican, SS America, SS Rex, SS Uruguay, Viking knarr, Gokstad ship, Thames River Skiff , USS OneidaSwan 42 racing yacht  Queen Anne's Revenge (1710) SS Andrea Doria (1952), SS Michelangelo (1962) , Queen Anne's Revenge (2nd model) USS/SS Leviathan (1914),  James B Colgate (1892),  POW bone model (circa 1800) restoration,  SS Mayaguez (c.1975)

 

Prior kit builds - AL Dallas, Mamoli Bounty. Bluejacket America, North River Diligence, Airfix Sovereign of the Seas

 

"Take big bites.  Moderation is for monks."  Robert A. Heinlein

 

 

Posted

Hi Dan,

 

Thanks, the stove was fun to make. The number of gunports is an interesting question. I know Jeff used Chapelle’s plans for his principal source of information to design his plans but I do not know if he has or has seen a copy of the contemporary watercolor by Charles Randle.

 

One possibility for the discrepancy is after she was captured and taken into British service the additional gunports could have been added at a later date.

 

Jeff’s drawings and monograph was reviewed by Chuck Passaro and the NRG board of directors before they were published. They made a few changes but the number of gunports stayed the same.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Mike

Posted

One possibility.  They knew they might end up fighting as they did-anchored with one side facing the enemy.  That way they could bring more of the heavier guns to bear.  They would have to shift ballast to do so, but it may be worth the effort.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

Posted

Thanks for all the pictures Mike. I'm working on the keel assembly, and its coming along fine so far.  I will enter this project of building the Washington soon as I figure out this forum a little better.  I have a question on the 20 guage brass rods your assembling the frames with. I assume your simulating bolts or iron nails but not treenails. Are you inserting the rods into a drilled hole, with instant glue? or just a tight fit? I'll finish this ship with Danish oil I think. Bye for now--------Lacy 

Posted

Hi Lacy,

 

I am glad you found the pictures helpful. The 20 gauge brass wire is simulating bolts. I drilled holes and inserted the rods with Elmer’s white glue. It does a good job holding the rods in place and if you have to take the part apart all you need is water. I like using Danish oil, it is easy to use and leaves a nice finish. Good luck with the Washington she is an enjoyable project.

 

Mike

Posted

Diajud,

 

If you'll go here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/11-scratch-build-logs-in-progress/you should see some pinned topics. They should help you get started.  If it's a kit, there's pinned topics here:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/10-kit-build-logs-in-progress/

 

Also here:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/47-questionsinstructions-on-how-to-use-and-post-to-this-forumsite-problems-or-suggestions/  are some How-to articles.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi mike

Very nice build...been following with great interest as I'm just about to start work on the same model.

I have a couple of questions if you don't mind me asking!

Firstly regarding the keel scarfs....as far as I understand 18c scarfs were cut in the vertical plane whilst Washington's seem to be cut in the horizontal plane? I'm assuming it's correct but just wanted some clarification as I don't want any historical boo boos.

The second question relates to the room and space of the framing.

Measuring directly from the plans the frames are 1/4inch (2x6 inchs in real life) and the space is 1/8 inch,again 6 inches in real life. This is consistent for the full length of the keel, including half frames and cants? I'm measuring to very slight desrepancys on the plans. Maybe due to the printing?

Any help you can offer greatly appreciated.

Nice work on those hawse timbers aswell....I shall be copying your method!!!!

Cheers.....mick

Posted

Hi Mick,

 

Thanks, the Washington is a nice small ship to model.

 

I am not sure what Jeff used for a reference to show the keel scarfs his main reference drawing did not show any scarfs or the room and space of the framing. I used the dimensions Jeff indicated on his drawings for the scarfs and room and space for the frames. I am sure there were some variation in the actual ship but for modeling purposes ¼” thick frames and 1/8” spaces makes a very sturdy assembly. It would have been nice to have ‘as built’ drawings to work from but we could not find any.

 

Good luck with your build.

 

Mike

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Mike----Quick question, I have started using scotch brand,double sided clear tape to stick the frame pieces (paper) to the wood frames. It comes in permanent and removable type tape. The removable comes off too easily (as your sanding the pieces), and the permanent is hard to remove from the frames when finished. My question is what did you use?-----------------------------Lacy      

Posted

Hi Lacy,

 

I am sorry it toke me so long to respond. I was on vacation in Portland for a few weeks.

 

I use a repositionable spray adhesive to attach the patterns to the wood. When you remove the pattern from the parts it sometimes leaves a residue that will wipe off with a rag with a little mineral spirts without leaving a stain and dries quickly.

 

I hopes this helps.

 

Mike

  • 4 months later...
  • 8 months later...
Posted

Excellent result on this build Mike. Your build log, along with others was very interesting and a lot of good ideas were gleaned for my own Washington build. So far I've been busy preparing the wood for the project. The re-sawing and planing is finished. The sanding was supposed to be done yesterday, but after all the donkey work I had to have some fun so instead I did a practice assembly of the bow pieces. I tried to simulate caulking by just penciling over the glue joints without much success. Next time I will not make the mistake of fake caulking the rabbet.This  assembly will be made over again and also include the slots for the cant frames which I forgot to do this time. The cutting of the rabbet also has to be improved a little.

 

 

 

 

 

 

post-25913-0-00894100-1475592437_thumb.jpg

Mike,

an American living in Norway

 

 

Current build:  Galley Washington - 1:48 - Scratch POF - NRG plans

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Mike,

 

I am sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I am in Myrtle Beach on vacation avoiding the computer as much as possible lol.

 

You did a fine job fitting the bow pieces together. Another way to show caulking in the joints is to use a dark colored wood glue it results in a good line and is easy to do. You are off to a good start with your build.

 

Mike

  • 5 years later...

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