HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72

[aliluke]

Man some of us here are overly hard on ourselves but you take the cake for that award!!

 

Your work looks extraordinarily good to my eye. I can't see anything other than precision in that rudder and its hinges. The stern and quarters also show complete control and accuracy.  It all looks brilliant to me.

 

Cool your boots - you are doing fantastic stuff and I am watching your progression in awe!

[RMC]

Alistair; Dunno if I'm overly hard on myself.  I think it's more a product of shortsightedness.  I can see every fault.

[Littlebob]

Wow that is amazing work, the stern painting is great, and your copper work looks perfect.

[RMC]

I have finished the decoration of the side gallery on the right side of the model.  The fit of all the decorations relies on the accuracy of the underlying structure.  It turned out fairly demanding with a few heart-stopping moments.  I have photographed each step in the hope that it may help future builders.

 

 

A piece of strip needs to be attached to the very top of the gallery apparently for the sole purpose  of decoration - which seems a bit odd.  Definitely pre-bend the strip to the required curvature.

 

 

 

Two pieces of 1x1mm strip are glued to the tops of the pillars.

 

Then the rather strange curved decoration was applied.  I bent it to shape as best I could beforehand. Getting the bend  completly right off the model was well-nigh impossible so it was glued on under some stress (both the decoration and me).  Fortunately it turned out quite well.

 

 

The fit was quite close, but at the bottom of the decoration there were small gaps at either end.

 

I used wood filler to fill them.

 

 

And here are the remaining steps.

 

 

Before applying, the decoration should be bent to shape of the underlying structure and laterally to conform to the curve of the strip below it.

 

The very top decoration proved impossible to bend laterally.  As a consequence I glued it at a slight angle to give the impression of it conforming  with the lateral curvature of the decoration below it.

 

 

Except for some very minor touching up :finished. 

 

 

Now for the left side .....

 

Edited July 10, 2014 by RMC

[Blue Ensign]

A very nice fit of the rudder Bob.

 

I quite like the contrast  between the copper plates and the rudder straps, it was an effect I deliberately went for on my build.  These items were made from a cuprous alloy and would have appeared slightly more bronze in appearance I think.

 

Wonderful clean work on those Quarter Galleries, an excellent result.

 

B.E.

[RMC]

Something odd happened to my post so ......

Edited July 10, 2014 by RMC

[RMC]

Thanks for the kind comments BE (Jason?) and others for the 'likes'.  Encouragement is always ... well ..... encouraging.   I wasn't at all happy with the rudder straps but I now have a better perspective of it.  It just shows that (my) ignorance is not necessarily bliss.

 

Regards to all

 

Bob

[Keith_W]

Hey RMC, just a quick note to let you know that I have been enjoying your build log. I know what you mean about heart stopping moments ... I have much to look forward to (heart stopping moments that is) on my own build!

[RMC]

Thanks for the note Keith.  If you are not already looking, the logs of AEW (Arthur), Free Wheeling Guy (Len) and Fake John Bull (Mitsuaki) are particularly helpful for Vanguard/Bellerophon builders.

 

All the best., Bob

[RMC]

The side gallery decorations are now complete. I thought completing the right side decorations would, having done the left, be easier. naturally my expectations were disappointed.   The large oddly shaped decoration refused to be glued. It took four attempts before the wretched thing went where it should.

 

For those who try this in the future I have a fewsuggestions that may help.  Start with a very complete vocabulary because it's likely you will use it.

 

Bend the piece the conform with the curves of the structure of the gallery as best you can.  The top and the bottom curves differ and essentially the whole piece is twisted. Glue the lower curve to the structure (I use dots of gel CA about the size of a pin head all  over the back of the piece).  Make sure it is firmly fixed at the bottom as it will be under stress.  Initially, the top curve is almost certain not to fit - there will be a gap between it and the surface of the gallery. Now that the lower curve is firmly fixed, press the top curve to conform with the curvature of the gallery.  It will bend to the right shape fairly easily, but keep applying pressure until you are sure it is firmly glued.

 

Finally here it is.

 

I have now more or less completed the bow decoration.  The joining of the two bits of the middle rail - the one that meets the bottom of  the cathead - went fairly well on the left side, not so well on the right. I had it lined up perfectly and applied pressure to complete the gluing - and the model then moved.  The decorative bit moved down about half a mill and the 'moveable' gel CA then decided not to. To redo it risked significant damage, so there you are.

 

The catheads and the bow timber heads are dry fitted in the photos.  Putting them on at this stage, sticking out as they do,  is inviting trouble.

 

 

Edited July 12, 2014 by RMC

[WackoWolf]

Excellent work. The detail is nice and clear, nice on the eyes. Keep the pictures coming.

[aliluke]

It looks brilliant Bob. Picture perfect and your pictures are great too. Very well made - actually immaculate from what I see!

[Beef Wellington]

Bob, ehoing others but looks very accurate, crisp and clean.  I know I'm going to be dealing with similar challenges on the galleries, they must be tough to build so that they have the right look (seems so easy to get it looking 'not quite right') and get the prefab parts fit well.  The bow shots look fantastic, everything looks very symmetrical.  You've done a wonderful job on all accounts, well done.  

[RMC]

Thanks all for the encourgement.  I has just ocurred to me that I haven't really given much thought to mounting the model.  I drilled a couple of holes in the keel, but I'm not sure what to do with them - if anything.  I may just paint the stand provided, but if I do that I guess I'll have to do it now before the whole thing becomes more or less immovable.

 

Suggestions welcome.

[RMC]

Arthur:

 

My stem decorations needed a little trimming - a fraction top and bottom - to fit. You may have more luck.

[RMC]

I have finally mounted the guns.  It's something I have been putting off.  Putting them on is the last thing to do before putting the 'lid' on the deck and I keep thinking I may have foregotten something - aside from where I put my car keys and glasses.

 

I decided not to put the full rigging on them.  To do so would require drilling two holes in the carriages to provide for eyelets and I don't have the type of drill that would do the job properly. As well, only the guns that could be seen were (partially) rigged.  My committment to authenticity goes only so far.

 

I am happy enough with the way it has worked out, though I am not enraptured with my rope coils.  The thread provided went every way but the way I wanted it to go.  The gun rigging, while fiddly, proved easier than I thought. Two pairs of longish, fine-pointed tweezers were indispensible. I am now looking for alternative sources of rigging cord that may behave more pliably.  Suggestions are very welcome.

 

To achieve reasonable uniformity of the heights of the gun barrels in the ports, I adjusted the heights of the guns towards the bow and the stern by grinding down the front wheels at the three stern ports, and the back wheels at the three bow ports.  It is at the bow the difference in the heights of the gunports from the deck is greatest, and here I also glued a small piece of copper strip below the front wheels - two under the guns at the very front port.  These can't be seen.

 

Here is the gundeck.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 26, 2014 by RMC

[mobbsie]

She's looking really smart Bob, good clean lines and the stern is just superb.

 

Well done mate.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[AON]

very good looking!

(you know I am taking notes, right)

[RMC]

Thanks all for the comments and the likes.

 

Alistair: I note that not only have you aged ( ) but you've been promoted too. Congratulations.

[RMC]

Progress has been made on the upper deck, though not without a careless mistake. I decided the best way to fit the boatdeck beams was to glue them in position  before putting on the plywood deck. Doing so enables a firm attachment of the beams to the side of the hull. In each case, both ends of the beams needed to be trimmed off by about 0.5mm for a snug fit. I meticulously measured the gaps between each beam, and then for the second beam towards the stern, put the front of the beam on the mark instead of the back. The result is that the beam is 5mm out - which then threw the next one out too.  Fortunately I was working from both ends, so the front two beams are fine. I discovered once I realised my mistake, that my gluing was all too effective.  I then laid the boats on the beams to see how obvious the blunder looks,   Fortunately, once the boats are on, the beams can hardly be seen.  I guess the boat cradles will need some work to accommodate the problem, but correcting the position of the two beams would cause significant damage, for not much gain.

 

These are the first of the beams - accurately installed.

 

 

These are the whole lot - with blunder.  The result is the gap over the capstan is 5mm too big.

 

 

The second beam on the left is the culprit (I am now absolving myself from blame) , throwing it, and the next beam out by 5mm.

 

 

 

Here are the ships' boats laid on the support beams obscuring (I hope) the mistake..

 

 

 

 

Edited July 29, 2014 by RMC

[RMC]

Thanks Arthur

I remembered from your log the that the position of largest boat is offset and I spent some time this afternoon going through it.  I'm glad you too couldn't make out just what the shapes of the cradles may be.  The ones towards the stern of each boat don't seem to bear any resemblance to the shapes of the boats.

[aliluke]

Bob you are very hard on yourself. I can only just pick that up from the photos and only by you prompting the thought of the difference. I'd live with that and the boats cover it.

 

I understand your obsession though...I'm seriously reconsidering ripping off and re-doing all my quarter deck planking because the fake treenails look too big. Hey, we get dumber and dumber and look too often into a mirror that no one else can see into. In the case of my QD - rip it up and start again? I guess I have to because otherwise it will bug me forever - complete madness. In your case I reckon you are saved by the boats and your mirror won't be much seen by others if at all.

 

Some rope will be on the way in the next few days!

[RMC]

I have finally added the 'lid' to the gundeck. I have finally found a useful use for sinkers.  They certainly haven't been very useful for fishing lately.

 

 

I have applied a plank all the way down the centre of the deck and will use it as the base for spacing the remaining planks towards the edges.

 

 

I bought a rather amazingly flexible saw to cut off the deck supports flush.  It worked a treat.

 

 

The deck fittings are test fitted. There is a support almost directly under the forward hatch.  A ladder is supposed to be fitted into it.  It's really not possible without cutting the support - which does not seem to me to be an especially good idea.  I'll probably leave as is unless someone can suggest something better.

Edited August 8, 2014 by RMC

[RMC]

The 'lid' has finally been put on the gundeck.

[RMC]

Thanks for that.

The saw came from

 

hobbytools.com.au

 

I think there is enough of the support left if I cut a rebate.  It's a pity not to have had more foresight. I'll have a look tomorrow morning

[RMC]

The deck planking has begun. I decided to follow Arthur's lead in cutting a rebate in the deck support under the forward hatch so that stairs could be fitted. It turned out to be not as difficult as I expected, though I was rather nervous while in the process.  Cutting the planking to provide for the other deck fittings also went well. I used PVA wood glue applied in a hypodermic syringe.  It allows accurate application of the glue and minimises wastage.

 

These show the rebate cut in the first deck support.

 

 

 

The deck furniture dry-fitted.

 

 

Here is the saw used in cutting the rebate. The blade is alarmingly sharp. I first drilled a number of holes about the middle of the support to provide access for the saw and then sawed away.  The result is a nice clean cut.

 

Edited August 11, 2014 by RMC

[RMC]

Alistair has kindly sent me some samples of Morope. The quality is really excellent.  I have looked on the Morope website and among other things it specifies left and right handed rope.  This seems rather odd to me, so can anyone suggest the applications of the two types. Does it really matter?  I intend to replace the kit-supplied rigging with Morope, and I hope not to go to the expense and then stuff it up.

[aliluke]

Hi Bob

I never really got that left and right lay thing either. I just went for one lay - right hand - with my order. Blue Ensign has a schedule for Pegasus ropes that suggests the lays - page six or so in his build. It is something that is completely beyond me in terms of visual accuracy and from my point of view I couldn't care less...Way beyond my eyesight to usefully pick this up.

 

Still, I'm interested in better informed answers to your question.

[AON]

coils of line (rope) have a natural lay to them... when you hand coil a line it will naturally fall into a coil if you assist in taking the twist out as you coil the line otherwise it tangles.  Understanding this I've used left and right hand steel wire rope wrapped around drums for overhead hoisting cranes.

 

possibly the differentiation in fibre rope lay might have made a difference in being wrapped around components... I will have to check some seaman's handbooks tonight when I get home from work

[RMC]

Thanks Alan for taking the trouble.