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HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72


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Bob - it proves you know what you're doing when you catch the errors :P  Despite the challenge, the quality and detail of the Amati rigging plans are definitely superior to the ones I've seen with Caldercraft, which are pretty good, its just that lines tend to end in "smudges" very often.  Your rigging is looking great!

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Gentleman,

I have a problem and maybe someone has the answer. Whenever I try to open one the the xxx.jpg photos embedded in the post, all I get is a white box with the "I am working wheel" turning. Actual photos show up perfectly. Do I need to do something else. Using Windows  XP Home Premium operating system.

 

Thanks

Edited by ca.shipwright
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I haven't had this problem. If I click on one of the photos in the post I sometimes get the white box and the wheel, but it quickly opens the photo. Sometimes the click goes directly to the photo without the box and the wheel. I use XP Pro, which I know these days is considered steam-driven, but it does the job. Sorry I can't help.

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The fore and mizzen top gallant back stays are now finished and the main, almost.

 

Here is the foremast. The backstays are not finally made off, and the last two, at the far left of the photo will be left as is for the time being.  They are the ones most likely to get in the way of later rigging and may be easily moved if necessary. 

 

 

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Here is the mizzen. Ditto the preceding remarks.

 

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I may have belatedly found the reason for the omission of the eyelets on the forward channels mentioned in an earlier post.  In looking more carefully at the plan (9) - always a good idea, though I often ignore it - I came across this! It seems rather (needlessly?) complicated and I think I will continue to ignore it.  I have in any case put the extra eyelets on the channels.

 

post-823-0-78621200-1481172234_thumb.jpg

 

Those following Arthur's log will have seen his main bitts with his virtuoso addition of seven belaying pins. Given the spacing of my existing two pins, I was only able to squeeze another three on. (Actually I doubt if I could have squeezed seven on in any event.) I will rely on my 'less is more' defense in coming up two short. They haven't yet been glued in, and I now see from the photos that some minor adjustments are needed.

 

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Edited by RMC
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Absolutely stunning work.  The detail is mind blowing, congratulations you should be justifiably proud.

Nigel

Cheers

Nigel

 

Current Build - HMS Victory, Caldercraft - scale  1:64,  started September 2021

Cutty Sark, Constructo - scale 1:115, finished August 2021

HMS Bounty, Constructo - Scale 1:50 - First wooden kit build, finished April 2019

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Looking fantastic Bob!  I apologize if this has come up before, but I wonder if you have considered changing the belaying pins.  To my eye they look rather fat and out of scale compared to the really fine detail that is highlighted by those deck shots.   Caldercraft provide similar looking ones in their kits, but also sell a thinner version that I think is much more in keeping, although 1:64, they may work at 1:72 as well.  I in no way mean to criticize you wonderful work, so please feel free to ignore/rebut :D

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Thanks very much for the encouragement Nigel. At the moment I'm getting rather tired of rigging.

 

Jason: in looking at the pins I agree with you. I hadn't really noticed before.  Problem: the pins on the other bitts are well and truly glued - so in a manner of speaking, I'm stuck. :(

Edited by RMC
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The running rigging is now all but complete. Royal back stays are to come.  It's not urgent, and I'm not sure whether I have enough Syren thread for them and some of other things I need to do.  If necessary I will order some more thread, but Christmas/holiday time is not the time to do it.

 

This is how things look at the moment.

 

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I am now finishing off the main and fore yards (photos later), and while doing that, unfortunately my thoughts have turned to rope coils.  After quite a few experiments, this is the method I have used for the coils for the timber heads.

 

 I have wrapped a piece of balsa in cling wrap (preventing the thread from sticking). Having measured the required length of the coil, I have simply stuck a drawing pin into the balsa at the correct height for the drop. The bit of wood at the top is about the same size as the timberheads and is simply a piece of scrap, sharpened at the bottom and stuck into the balsa.

 

To enlarge the lower part of the coil, and to prevent the thread from sticking I have put a small (red) piece of electrical insulation over the pin. I would have preferred something a bit thicker to make a larger lower coil, but I guess you can't have everything.

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This gives an idea of how they will look on the model.

 

post-823-0-28374100-1481666359_thumb.jpg

Edited by RMC
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The fore and main yards are now more or less finished.  The stunsail booms are to be finally fixed (to do later next week) , but all the rest of the bits and pieces are complete. I have tried to show as much detail as possible in the following photos. I took them a few days ago, and now realise I didn't label them, so I'm not sure which is which - anyway, it's the principle that is important. B)  I've certainly learned a few things in doing these two yards. For those who may find my experience useful I suggest:

 

     *first, drill the holes ready for the footrope stirrups;

     *second, fit the stunsail boom rings; (I have not used the kit fittings which are quite poor.  I show how I made replacements earlier in this log.)

     *third dry-fit the booms; and

     *last, fit the various blocks having made sure the dry-fitted booms do not foul them.  (Something I wish I had  foreseen.)

 

Hindsight is a wonderful thing. ^_^

 

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Here are both the yards.

 

post-823-0-54017200-1481955133_thumb.jpg

 

I just noticed a couple of the foot ropes look as if they are a little tight.  In fact they hang quite nicely. A little dilute PVA glue does the trick.

Edited by RMC
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The main yard is finished - finally. The stunsail booms are mounted, and I hope all the blocks are in the right places. Out of curiosity I mounted the yard onto the main mast to see how it looks. A brass pin in the yard stuck into a hole in the yard does the job.  To my very pleasant surprise (what with all the bits and pieces hanging on it) it was perfectly balanced. Fancy that. ^_^

 

Here it is on the model.

 

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and off the model.

 

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We are off to the coast south of Sydney on Friday for Christmas and New Year - back in mid-January. I hope I may finish another yard or two while away - among other things.  I would like to thank  members for the kind comments, the help, the 'likes' and the encouragement given me during the year. I had thought to mention names, but I would be sure to miss someone, but I'm sure you know who you are.

 

Have a happy Christmas and a happy, healthy and prosperous New Year.

 

Bob

Edited by RMC
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  • 2 weeks later...

Bob:

A heads up, if you have not yet completed the assembly of the top spirit sail yard note that the yard plan asks for a Q block (double 4 mm block) for the yard halyard.

In reality, if you see the rigging plan the block should be an N block (a 3 mm single block).

Happy New Year!!

 

Jose

Edited by Jdieck
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  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry for my delay in replying Jose. Thanks for the information. There are a couple of other possible mistakes in the plans' rigging specifications that I have come across.  I would be grateful for your views.   I have a few photos of those and of the progress I have made on the yards.  I will load them when I get a chance.  Doing something about an out-of-control garden has precedence. At least now the various blocks etc are attached and the yards are now all but complete.  I am rather sick of tying knots

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Welcome back. I hope you had a great vacation.

If there are more mistakes on the rigging either I did not noticed or I corrected the to the best of my understanding. I finished the rigging including the installation of the sails. At this point I am on the finals details, lamps, anchors, gun port doors. rope coils and such.

When I have a chance I will email you some pics. I think it looks also good with the sails.

 

Jose

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Here are photos of the yards as they are now.  Almost all have their blocks etc attached.  The holes for the footrope stirrups are drilled, ready for the foot ropes  - I will put these on last as they are quite fragile.

 

The two yards labelled 1. are for the sprit sails, and 2. the foremast yards.

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3. the main yards.  4. the driver gaffs and the mizzen yards.

 

post-823-0-48519300-1484632236_thumb.jpg

 

I didn't make as much progress as I'd hoped as there were other things to do.

 

The last couple of years I have photographed Pigeon House mountain (named by Captain Cook) on the eve of the summer solstice. Missed out the year, but here are two taken on Christmas eve.

 

post-823-0-84902200-1484632709_thumb.jpg

 

This is one of the many Green Islands on our east coast. (I must to something about the rotten power pole. Perhaps termites are the answer. )

 

post-823-0-98578700-1484632771_thumb.jpg

 

I forgot about the possible errors in the plan. Now I can only find one. For the driver gaff, the plan specifies a 3mm block (N).  Drawn on the plan is a 5mm block (O).  Does it matter?

 

 

post-823-0-93230200-1484635362_thumb.jpg

 

Happy New year to all.

Edited by RMC
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Thanks for the warning Arthur.  Having earlier drilled out a couple of blocks on site, it's something I don't wish to repeat. With the block, I think I'll go for the larger one as it seems to me more likely that the label is wrong than the drawing. 

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Thanks for the warning Arthur.  Having earlier drilled out a couple of blocks on site, it's something I don't wish to repeat. With the block, I think I'll go for the larger one as it seems to me more likely that the label is wrong than the drawing.

 

I installed a 3 mm because the larger block looked desproportionate with the other block in that line (a 4 mm double) and with the diameter of the boom.
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Good catch on the tack bloks Arthur. I had to drill them in place. Was a real pain as I ended up gluing the drill on a long skewer and drill them that way.

I also found that the two 3 mm blocks for the main topgallant an the fore topgallant yards lifts had to be rigged for the standing part of the lines. That is not indicated on the block rigging drawings for the topgallant masts.

Edited by Jdieck
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Arthur. I probably missed that post.

One coment to you and Bob.

I noticed from the pictures of the model that the anchors are installed without a tackle to the catheads.

I intend to include a triple block and tackle but should the block include a hook rather than a tie to the anchr ring?

I assume a hook so they could desengage the block from the anchor to launch it. Is it right to use a hook between the anchor ring and the tackle block?

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Thank you both. Beautiful models and well detailed.

So in reality it is a hook on the tackle plus the need for the chain/release mechanism.

Will it be worth to replicate the chain and release mechanism at the Vanguard's scale?

I may try and see how it goes. Lots of tiny parts there.

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The driver boom and gaff are finally complete.  They took far longer than expected. As well there is a minor omission on the plan which was a bit of a nuisance.

 

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The yellow tape on the end is there temporarily to prevent the blocks coming off.

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Of course I discovered my lack of eyelets a little later than I would have liked.

 

post-823-0-88030400-1485394282_thumb.jpg

 

 

Edited by RMC
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