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Table saw...


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Ok so I got some good tips on my first post here comes my second....

 

I'm looking to buy a micro table saw. My only use is going to be for ripping blocks into planking. So basically I'm going to need something that can rip down close to 1mm and have a good solid straight edge on my cut. I'm hoping to stay under $300 on this in total. What would y'all suggest here. I've seen several online and just don't know which is best for this need. Thanks in advance for all your help.

 

Links to the saws would also be appreciated!

 

JVO

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JVO,

You can do it with a slightly cheaper saw than Byrnes Saw in cost.  I'm making planks down to 1/32" on a Micro-mark saw.  However, it's a big pain and it's not as accurate.  I'm only getting about a 50% yield on cut planks.  When this one finally dies, I'll be getting a Byrnes. 

 

BTW, the price difference on a Byrnes Saw and Micro-mark is about $70 and Jim's saw is much more precise and robust.  No plastic for one thing.

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JVO,

You can do it with a slightly cheaper saw than Byrnes Saw in cost.  I'm making planks down to 1/32" on a Micro-mark saw.  However, it's a big pain and it's not as accurate.  I'm only getting about a 50% yield on cut planks.  When this one finally dies, I'll be getting a Byrnes. 

 

BTW, the price difference on a Byrnes Saw and Micro-mark is about $70 and Jim's saw is much more precise and robust.  No plastic for one thing.

And more precise accessories as well.....

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Byrnes Saw (he hates when you call it that) DEFINITELY.  A precision tool with a lot of options.  Hopefully soon he will come out with a featherboard. :)   If you get one, I think you find many more uses for it.  (See my build log for Gunboat PHLADELPHIA and making gun carriages).

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5721-gunboat-philadelphia-by-chuck-seiler-scale-148-1776-scratch-from-ms-plans/page-4#entry176933

Edited by Chuck Seiler
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JVO,

After buying the Proxon FET I would go with the Byrnes saw if I had to do it again. The Proxon will get the job done but the setup is is pain IMHO and its not repeatable - too much slop in the "micro adjustment" knob. Others here are using a basic Proxon and seem to like it.

I tried to "save" money going with the Proxon, now Jim Byrnes saw is going to cost me $300.00 more that it would have if I had just bought it first. Live and learn.

Sam

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And more precise accessories as well.....

 

Exactly.  I just bought 4 Thurston blades (different tooth count) which Jeff from HobbyMill recommends for the Byrnes Saw and spent less than what 2 blades would have cost me from MM.  And they are superior blades.

 

 

Byrnes Saw (he hates when you call it that) DEFINITELY.  A precision tool with a lot of options.  Hopefully soon he will come out with a featherboard. :)   If you get one, I think you find many more uses for it.  (See my build log for Gunboat PHLADELPHIA and making gun carriages).

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5721-gunboat-philadelphia-by-chuck-seiler-scale-148-1776-scratch-from-ms-plans/page-4#entry176933

 

He may hate it being called that, but that's what he calls it on his website.   On the featherboard.... how hard would it be to make one?

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You'll want the 120v (for the US) model; many other countries are above 220v; therefore, the saw requires a different motor voltage that will run under those respective voltages (it's common for power tools and etc. that are sold world wide to come in 110-120v & 220-240v versions).

 

Cheers,

Jay

Edited by JMaitri
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