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Ok so I got some good tips on my first post here comes my second....

 

I'm looking to buy a micro table saw. My only use is going to be for ripping blocks into planking. So basically I'm going to need something that can rip down close to 1mm and have a good solid straight edge on my cut. I'm hoping to stay under $300 on this in total. What would y'all suggest here. I've seen several online and just don't know which is best for this need. Thanks in advance for all your help.

 

Links to the saws would also be appreciated!

 

JVO

Regards,

Johnny

 

Go Buckeyes!!!

 

 

Current Build...

US Constellation 1798 POB (bashed) build log

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JVO,

 

 

unfortunate when it comes to the tolerance you are looking into, the only table saw I would recommend is the Byrnes table saw.

Don't have one myself, but one day.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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Save up some more money and get it right the first time. See the Byrnes table saw link posted above.

 

If you buy something lower you just might end up wishing you had bought the Byrnes.

 

Later Tim

Current Build -- Finishing a 1:1 House that I've been building for a while

Current Build -- Triton Cross Section

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JVO,

You can do it with a slightly cheaper saw than Byrnes Saw in cost.  I'm making planks down to 1/32" on a Micro-mark saw.  However, it's a big pain and it's not as accurate.  I'm only getting about a 50% yield on cut planks.  When this one finally dies, I'll be getting a Byrnes. 

 

BTW, the price difference on a Byrnes Saw and Micro-mark is about $70 and Jim's saw is much more precise and robust.  No plastic for one thing.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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JVO,

You can do it with a slightly cheaper saw than Byrnes Saw in cost.  I'm making planks down to 1/32" on a Micro-mark saw.  However, it's a big pain and it's not as accurate.  I'm only getting about a 50% yield on cut planks.  When this one finally dies, I'll be getting a Byrnes. 

 

BTW, the price difference on a Byrnes Saw and Micro-mark is about $70 and Jim's saw is much more precise and robust.  No plastic for one thing.

And more precise accessories as well.....

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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Byrnes Saw (he hates when you call it that) DEFINITELY.  A precision tool with a lot of options.  Hopefully soon he will come out with a featherboard. :)   If you get one, I think you find many more uses for it.  (See my build log for Gunboat PHLADELPHIA and making gun carriages).

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5721-gunboat-philadelphia-by-chuck-seiler-scale-148-1776-scratch-from-ms-plans/page-4#entry176933

Edited by Chuck Seiler

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans)

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JVO,

After buying the Proxon FET I would go with the Byrnes saw if I had to do it again. The Proxon will get the job done but the setup is is pain IMHO and its not repeatable - too much slop in the "micro adjustment" knob. Others here are using a basic Proxon and seem to like it.

I tried to "save" money going with the Proxon, now Jim Byrnes saw is going to cost me $300.00 more that it would have if I had just bought it first. Live and learn.

Sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

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And more precise accessories as well.....

 

Exactly.  I just bought 4 Thurston blades (different tooth count) which Jeff from HobbyMill recommends for the Byrnes Saw and spent less than what 2 blades would have cost me from MM.  And they are superior blades.

 

 

Byrnes Saw (he hates when you call it that) DEFINITELY.  A precision tool with a lot of options.  Hopefully soon he will come out with a featherboard. :)   If you get one, I think you find many more uses for it.  (See my build log for Gunboat PHLADELPHIA and making gun carriages).

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5721-gunboat-philadelphia-by-chuck-seiler-scale-148-1776-scratch-from-ms-plans/page-4#entry176933

 

He may hate it being called that, but that's what he calls it on his website.   On the featherboard.... how hard would it be to make one?

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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You'll want the 120v (for the US) model; many other countries are above 220v; therefore, the saw requires a different motor voltage that will run under those respective voltages (it's common for power tools and etc. that are sold world wide to come in 110-120v & 220-240v versions).

 

Cheers,

Jay

Edited by JMaitri

Current Build:

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Thanks Jay.  I was kind of thinking something like that.  I'm pretty good at working with wood, but electricity is something I don't know anything about other than not to stick my finger in the socket.

Regards,

Johnny

 

Go Buckeyes!!!

 

 

Current Build...

US Constellation 1798 POB (bashed) build log

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