Jwvanost Posted March 28, 2014 #1 Posted March 28, 2014 Ok so I got some good tips on my first post here comes my second.... I'm looking to buy a micro table saw. My only use is going to be for ripping blocks into planking. So basically I'm going to need something that can rip down close to 1mm and have a good solid straight edge on my cut. I'm hoping to stay under $300 on this in total. What would y'all suggest here. I've seen several online and just don't know which is best for this need. Thanks in advance for all your help. Links to the saws would also be appreciated! JVO Quote Regards, Johnny Go Buckeyes!!! Current Build... US Constellation 1798 POB (bashed) build log
Nirvana Posted March 28, 2014 #2 Posted March 28, 2014 JVO, unfortunate when it comes to the tolerance you are looking into, the only table saw I would recommend is the Byrnes table saw. Don't have one myself, but one day. WackoWolf 1 Quote Please, visit our Facebook page! Respectfully Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry
42rocker Posted March 28, 2014 #3 Posted March 28, 2014 Save up some more money and get it right the first time. See the Byrnes table saw link posted above. If you buy something lower you just might end up wishing you had bought the Byrnes. Later Tim WackoWolf and src 2 Quote Current Build -- Finishing a 1:1 House that I've been building for a while Current Build -- Triton Cross Section
Jay 1 Posted March 28, 2014 #4 Posted March 28, 2014 Yep, save up for a Byrnes saw--for a bit more, it's definitely worth it! Cheers, Jay Quote Current Build: Ariel
mtaylor Posted March 28, 2014 #5 Posted March 28, 2014 JVO, You can do it with a slightly cheaper saw than Byrnes Saw in cost. I'm making planks down to 1/32" on a Micro-mark saw. However, it's a big pain and it's not as accurate. I'm only getting about a 50% yield on cut planks. When this one finally dies, I'll be getting a Byrnes. BTW, the price difference on a Byrnes Saw and Micro-mark is about $70 and Jim's saw is much more precise and robust. No plastic for one thing. Ryland Craze and WackoWolf 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
Nirvana Posted March 28, 2014 #6 Posted March 28, 2014 JVO, You can do it with a slightly cheaper saw than Byrnes Saw in cost. I'm making planks down to 1/32" on a Micro-mark saw. However, it's a big pain and it's not as accurate. I'm only getting about a 50% yield on cut planks. When this one finally dies, I'll be getting a Byrnes. BTW, the price difference on a Byrnes Saw and Micro-mark is about $70 and Jim's saw is much more precise and robust. No plastic for one thing. And more precise accessories as well..... Quote Please, visit our Facebook page! Respectfully Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry
Jwvanost Posted March 28, 2014 Author #7 Posted March 28, 2014 Well it looks like there is a solid consensus so maybe I'll just hold off a few weeks and go this route. Can anyone enlighten me on the difference in the two different voltage options? Quote Regards, Johnny Go Buckeyes!!! Current Build... US Constellation 1798 POB (bashed) build log
Chuck Seiler Posted March 28, 2014 #8 Posted March 28, 2014 (edited) Byrnes Saw (he hates when you call it that) DEFINITELY. A precision tool with a lot of options. Hopefully soon he will come out with a featherboard. If you get one, I think you find many more uses for it. (See my build log for Gunboat PHLADELPHIA and making gun carriages). http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5721-gunboat-philadelphia-by-chuck-seiler-scale-148-1776-scratch-from-ms-plans/page-4#entry176933 Edited March 28, 2014 by Chuck Seiler Quote Chuck Seiler San Diego Ship Modelers Guild Nautical Research Guild Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section Completed: Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop
src Posted March 28, 2014 #9 Posted March 28, 2014 JVO, After buying the Proxon FET I would go with the Byrnes saw if I had to do it again. The Proxon will get the job done but the setup is is pain IMHO and its not repeatable - too much slop in the "micro adjustment" knob. Others here are using a basic Proxon and seem to like it. I tried to "save" money going with the Proxon, now Jim Byrnes saw is going to cost me $300.00 more that it would have if I had just bought it first. Live and learn. Sam WackoWolf 1 Quote Current Build Constructo Enterprise
mtaylor Posted March 28, 2014 #10 Posted March 28, 2014 And more precise accessories as well..... Exactly. I just bought 4 Thurston blades (different tooth count) which Jeff from HobbyMill recommends for the Byrnes Saw and spent less than what 2 blades would have cost me from MM. And they are superior blades. Byrnes Saw (he hates when you call it that) DEFINITELY. A precision tool with a lot of options. Hopefully soon he will come out with a featherboard. If you get one, I think you find many more uses for it. (See my build log for Gunboat PHLADELPHIA and making gun carriages). http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5721-gunboat-philadelphia-by-chuck-seiler-scale-148-1776-scratch-from-ms-plans/page-4#entry176933 He may hate it being called that, but that's what he calls it on his website. On the featherboard.... how hard would it be to make one? WackoWolf 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
Jay 1 Posted March 28, 2014 #11 Posted March 28, 2014 (edited) You'll want the 120v (for the US) model; many other countries are above 220v; therefore, the saw requires a different motor voltage that will run under those respective voltages (it's common for power tools and etc. that are sold world wide to come in 110-120v & 220-240v versions). Cheers, Jay Edited March 28, 2014 by JMaitri Quote Current Build: Ariel
Jwvanost Posted March 28, 2014 Author #12 Posted March 28, 2014 Thanks Jay. I was kind of thinking something like that. I'm pretty good at working with wood, but electricity is something I don't know anything about other than not to stick my finger in the socket. WackoWolf and Jay 1 2 Quote Regards, Johnny Go Buckeyes!!! Current Build... US Constellation 1798 POB (bashed) build log
Hellmut1956 Posted March 29, 2014 #13 Posted March 29, 2014 What accessories would be recommendable to buy with the saw? as it has to be shipped to Germany, placing order for accessories would make a lot of sense! Nirvana 1 Quote
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