mort stoll Posted August 25, 2014 #482 Posted August 25, 2014 I painted my masts ochre and the yards black. I think if I were to do it again I might paint the mast bands black instead of the ochre for a bit of contrast but this was not a fancy boat. She was a working "girl". Mort Quote Current Build - Caldercraft Victory Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William Waiting to be Launched - Bluejacket Constitution Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society
mort stoll Posted August 25, 2014 #483 Posted August 25, 2014 Sorry I forgot to add that I think I would have used the kit supplied dowels were I to have not painted the masts and yards. Mort drtrap 1 Quote Current Build - Caldercraft Victory Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William Waiting to be Launched - Bluejacket Constitution Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society
drtrap Posted August 25, 2014 Author #484 Posted August 25, 2014 (edited) Thank you Mort, I've covered her outer bulwarks with a walnut-like varnish and I'm thinking to use walnut dowel for the unpainted parts of the rest of the masts to match the bulwarks outer color. I'm seeing that Jason has used walnut parts too, but I'm not so sure which option is more historically suitable... Thanks. Edited August 25, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted August 25, 2014 Author #485 Posted August 25, 2014 That's exactly it. Thanks so much! It was my pleasure! proc94 1 Quote
drtrap Posted August 25, 2014 Author #486 Posted August 25, 2014 (edited) Vasileios has posted me a couple of photos illustrating the in black and yellow ochre of all the parts of the masts of Victory. Jim has painted this way his model. I still have the tendency to leave the upper parts unpainted just for better matching with the bulwarks, but I'm debating myshelf between the dowels of the kit and the aftermarket's walnut... Edited August 25, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted August 25, 2014 Author #487 Posted August 25, 2014 (edited) There is a slight deviation of the mainmast (I think...) to the right. Any idea on how to fix it? I've already fixed the mast-base rings on the deck... Edited August 27, 2014 by Stergios mort stoll, Aussie048, egkb and 1 other 4 Quote
Beef Wellington Posted August 25, 2014 #488 Posted August 25, 2014 Thank you Mort, I've covered her outer bulwarks with a walnut-like varnish and I'm thinking to use walnut dowel for the unpainted parts of the rest of the masts to match the bulwarks outer color. I'm seeing that Jason has used walnut parts too, but I'm not so sure which option is more historically suitable... Thanks. I think you are safe doing what you think looks best - check out the pictures of the HMS Vanguard kit from Amati - it shows the unpainted topmasts as well. http://www.historicships.com/TALLSHIPS/Amati/HMS%20Vanguard%20AM130004/HMS_Vanguard.htm As far as historical accuracy - I'm sure painted and non-painted are equally appropriate. The reason for painting I think is more to mask the lighter colour of the dowels which don't really match the walnut. Your Snake is looking great! drtrap and mort stoll 2 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted August 25, 2014 Author #489 Posted August 25, 2014 Thehe a slight deviation of the mainmast (I think...) to the right. Any idea on how to fix it? I've already fixed the mast-base rings on the deck... Hi Jason, glad to see you back and thank you! As far as your model, have you use walnut aftermarket dowels for the middle and upper stems of the fore and mainmast? Thanks again. john2013 1 Quote
Beef Wellington Posted August 25, 2014 #490 Posted August 25, 2014 Hi Jason, glad to see you back and thank you! As far as your model, have you use walnut aftermarket dowels for the middle and upper stems of the fore and mainmast? Thanks again. Yes I did - as well as the jib-boom on the bowsprit. drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted September 4, 2014 Author #491 Posted September 4, 2014 (edited) ...waiting for the aftermarket walnut dowels for the middle and upper 1/3 of the masts (and why not, for the yards too...). Edited September 4, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted September 6, 2014 Author #492 Posted September 6, 2014 Finally the walnut dowels arrived at home... I'm trying to establish the best orientation especially to have both rectangular edges at the same planes. Those custom made pencil markers are so helpfull... Quote
drtrap Posted September 6, 2014 Author #493 Posted September 6, 2014 (edited) The pre-final result Edited September 6, 2014 by Stergios egkb, WackoWolf and Timmo 3 Quote
drtrap Posted September 6, 2014 Author #494 Posted September 6, 2014 (edited) Shaping thοse 4mm dowels for the upper 1/3 of the masts is a really nightmare. After 3 efforts and additional broken dowels, the 4th try was succesive... Edited September 7, 2014 by Stergios Beef Wellington, GuntherMT, mort stoll and 2 others 5 Quote
drtrap Posted September 10, 2014 Author #495 Posted September 10, 2014 (edited) Hi guys.I'mo about to drill the 1,5 mm holes at the base of the topmast and topgallant mast to pass at a later stage the 1,5x1,5 walnut strip fid dowel.The instructions call for drilling the hole at a height of 10 mm from the bottom of each dowel but when i'm looking the plan i'm measuring the height at 6 mm....Do you consider that difference as a basic/critical for the next steps and what's the "right height" for that hole?Thank you.Stergios Edited September 10, 2014 by Stergios Quote
jim_smits Posted September 10, 2014 #496 Posted September 10, 2014 The 1.5mm dowel that is passed through the hole will rest on the trestletree assembly of the mast below and is in essense what 'holds' the mast in place. What you will want to do is ensure that the hole is at the correct hight so that the transition from square profile to round profile of the mast sits within the wooden brace that holds the two masts parallel. Thats probably about as badly explained is it could be but my brain seems to have gone on holiday today..... drtrap 1 Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo
Beef Wellington Posted September 10, 2014 #497 Posted September 10, 2014 I agree with Jim - Its better to get the mast positioned correctly and determine the position of the hole than rely on the 10mm indicated. The plans are not accurate enough to blindly rely on them. drtrap, jim_smits and mort stoll 3 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted September 13, 2014 Author #498 Posted September 13, 2014 Jim, Jason and Mort thank you, again for your support! Wanted to pre-shape all the yards of the ship. Giving a rectangular shape to the mid-section of each dowel and planking it with walnut thin planks was so easy. I liked Jason's technique so I decided to follow that way even with 4mm dowels... ccoyle, jim_smits, GuntherMT and 1 other 4 Quote
drtrap Posted September 13, 2014 Author #499 Posted September 13, 2014 Now it's time to try to dry-fit the masts joints. I'm happy enough with the results. Pics to follow asap Quote
drtrap Posted September 13, 2014 Author #500 Posted September 13, 2014 (edited) It took me a while to manage the respective "height" for the hole form the base of the topmast. After all everything was fine. That;s for the foremast Edited September 14, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted September 13, 2014 Author #501 Posted September 13, 2014 And the additional pics for the mainmast. GuntherMT and jwvolz 2 Quote
drtrap Posted September 13, 2014 Author #502 Posted September 13, 2014 Now I'm dealing with the mizzen mast.. Everything is dry-fitted except the platforms of the fore- and main- lowermasts. Thank you. jim_smits, jwvolz, mort stoll and 1 other 4 Quote
drtrap Posted September 14, 2014 Author #503 Posted September 14, 2014 Week-ends, when I'm at home I find time to make progress... Today is time to align and test foremast and mainmast parts respectively. These are the top mast and topgallant mast of the fore and main masts respectively... The foremast and the mainmast both dry-fitted... Quote
drtrap Posted September 14, 2014 Author #504 Posted September 14, 2014 Those parts came out of the box with some holes in need of reinforcement... I'll place a thin layer of glue or something to withstand the later tension of the ropes... egkb 1 Quote
drtrap Posted September 14, 2014 Author #505 Posted September 14, 2014 (edited) That's another testing of the lowermasts And for first time this is a dry-fitted placement of all the masts (except the bowsprit) of the model. I think I'm ok as far as the posterior tilting/inclination of the masts is concerned... Edited September 14, 2014 by Stergios jim_smits, GuntherMT, egkb and 1 other 4 Quote
drtrap Posted September 14, 2014 Author #506 Posted September 14, 2014 Well, there is a slight inclination of the mainmast to the right or of the foremast to the left.... Any additional idea (except Jim's opinion to file the base of the dowel) to handle this "little" problem? Quote
drtrap Posted September 14, 2014 Author #507 Posted September 14, 2014 ...how you see, the mainmast is more "centered" on the deck than the foremast... mort stoll, Beef Wellington and Aussie048 3 Quote
Beef Wellington Posted September 14, 2014 #508 Posted September 14, 2014 I think Jim's suggestion should work just fine...is the difference noticeable to the eye? Bubble levels can have a tendency to induce panic and call out problems that at not that noticeable. When raining masts on my Snake, I tried to look at the whole mast together (main, top, and topgallant) as there were likely small bowing of the down not noticeable individually, it also helps ensure that you don't fix a problem that creates a larger one down the road. Just my experience! drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted September 14, 2014 Author #509 Posted September 14, 2014 I think Jim's suggestion should work just fine...is the difference noticeable to the eye? Bubble levels can have a tendency to induce panic and call out problems that at not that noticeable. When raining masts on my Snake, I tried to look at the whole mast together (main, top, and topgallant) as there were likely small bowing of the down not noticeable individually, it also helps ensure that you don't fix a problem that creates a larger one down the road. Just my experience! Thank you Jason I've tried to demonstrate the visual feeling of the difference (see post #510). It's a slight difference but I'd like to reduce that problem... That's a posterior view of the model Quote
drtrap Posted September 14, 2014 Author #510 Posted September 14, 2014 To tell the truth, I'm thinking again to change and paint in yellow ochre the topmast and topgallant mast...I see walnut dowels so..pale. Before my final decision I'll apply a layer of mat varnish, hoping to reach a more warm-like walnut appearance.... jwvolz 1 Quote
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