HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft

[drtrap]

Hi guys, I'm wondering about that almost vertical strip-like plank indicated by the arrows on the plan at the most aft edge of the outer bulwarks.

Have you realized, what exactly it is? It is a walnut profile strip, I can;t understand by looking the plans/manual....

Thank you. 

[jim_smits]

Hi

On my Snake I have installed it as 4mm walnut plank. It is sitting flush to the transom and between the wale and the bulwark rail. Haven't really got a decent image as I'm out at the mo.

[drtrap]

Hi

On my Snake I have installed it as 4mm walnut plank. It is sitting flush to the transom and between the wale and the bulwark rail. Haven't really got a decent image as I'm out at the mo.

Thank you Jim.

 

I've additionaly fixed (and secured, I think) the stropped deadeyes into the channels slots using epoxy glue....

Finally the slots are closed using custom made walnut 1,5X1,5 strips, next step black-painting of the channles using my favourite Vallejo's matt black..  

[drtrap]

I know that I'm moving like a turtle, but as I have'nt plenty of time....

 

Deck the halls !!

[drtrap]

Finally all the aftermarket 32's carronade kits arrived, so I prepare myshelf to deal with the weaponry.

In the mean time I have received the aftermarket 2mm double blocks for the rigging of the guns.

I hope those blocks of 2mm to be an interesting alternative option.

Edited December 21, 2013 by Stergios

[jim_smits]

Finally all the aftermarket 32's carronade kits arrived, so I prepare myshelf to deal with the weaponry.

In the mean time I have received aftermarket 2mm double blocks for the rigging of the guns.

I hope those blocks of 2mm to be an interesting alternative option.

 

They'll probably look slightly better to scale than the 3mm blocks I used.

 

Good luck with the new carronades...!

[Beef Wellington]

Can't wait to see how the 2mm blocks look Stergios.  Where did you finally get them from?  Good luck with the weaponry!

[drtrap]

Can't wait to see how the 2mm blocks look Stergios.  Where did you finally get them from?  Good luck with the weaponry!

Hi Jason, I ordered the blocks here:

http://www.radekshipmodels.cz/en/list-of-kits-and-accessories/accessory---blocks

 

They are (and looked) so tiny!

Pics to follow... 

[drtrap]

Hi, I try to fit the side fenders but no "room" to place the single, most anterior of them cause the the posterior edge of the foremast channel ends in a point which intersects the small rectangular opening of the bulwark (can't remember its name...). The plan of the kit is definitely so different...

I'll leave the single fenders/chesstrees(?)  unmounted for the mo and I'll see later what to do about 

[normanh]

Have you positioned the channels correctly, I seem to remember on by Snake they fitted ok?

 

Norman

[drtrap]

Have you positioned the channels correctly, I seem to remember on by Snake they fitted ok?

 

Norman

Oh yes Norman, I've chequed their position a lot of times...

I'll try to upload a couple of pics to see better the misalignment....

Thanks

[drtrap]

This is the point of concern.

As you see the only way (to have the fender at least flush with the vertical border of the small opening) is to place it underneath the posterior edge of the foremast channel.

As I'm still in a preliminar stage of the build I don't know what's the functional use of that fender/chesstree....What do u think, to fix it under the posterior edge of the channel or leave it for a next phase of the consrtuction?

Thanks.

 

[Beef Wellington]

Stergios, I think you want the chesstree to extend between the wale and the capping rail to be authentic.  There is a hole for a piece of rigging that goes through the top of it, and you should check to make sure that this hole is clear of the channel to avoid problems later.  My initial quick thought would be to suggest filing down the end of the channel a little so you can accommodate the chesstree between the channel and the sweep port.

[drtrap]

Stergios, I think you want the chesstree to extend between the wale and the capping rail to be authentic.  There is a hole for a piece of rigging that goes through the top of it, and you should check to make sure that this hole is clear of the channel to avoid problems later.  My initial quick thought would be to suggest filing down the end of the channel a little so you can accommodate the chesstree between the channel and the sweep port.

Thank you Jason

I feel that the hole is important for a kind of support for the rigging of the main tackle. I think I'll leave the chesstree unmounted till that stage of rigging to accomodate better its position and the possible sanding of the channel....

Cheers

[drtrap]

Today, I plan to sand down the channel and attach the chesstree in place without open the hole on it.
I'll drill the hole later on just to realize first the appropriate point/height to pass the rigging of the main tackle.

[normanh]

I have attached a picture of my Snake showing where I fitted my fenders. Hope it helps?

 

Norman

[drtrap]

I have attached a picture of my Snake showing where I fitted my fenders. Hope it helps?

 

Norman

Many thanks, Norman.

Merry Christmas to you and to everyone of you my friends.

[mort stoll]

Same here to all.

 

Mort

[drtrap]

Started to unpack the fittings of the kits of the aftermarket 32's carronades...

The quality of the 2 mm walnut is so poor, that I can;t stand it, and I paid a lot of money for all of them !!   

[jim_smits]

The JoTiKa office is back open today after New Year as I spoke to them earlier. You could try calling them and getting replacement walnut parts?

[drtrap]

The JoTiKa office is back open today after New Year as I spoke to them earlier. You could try calling them and getting replacement walnut parts?

I'll try to talk to them Jim, even I'm not so hopeful....

[normanh]

I have to say I have always found Caldercraft/Jotika more that helpful on any quality issues and very responsive in replacing parts.

 

 

Norman

[drtrap]

I can't wait for another 15-20 days to have back the [in question] replacing walnut parts. I had to wait 25 days to receive all the seven kits in two posting periods...

I'll try to fix the problem by my own to a couple of the kits. The other five left, are fine.

Edited January 7, 2014 by Stergios

[drtrap]

I'm about to create the hole for the rope on the cannons using the 0,8 mm wire.

May I ask you Jason, how have you bend and cut/shape those wire hole-curvatures for all the barrels?

Thanks!! 

[Beef Wellington]

I'm about to create the hole for the rope on the cannons using the 0,8 mm wire.

May I ask you Jason, how have you bend and cut/shape those wire hole-curvatures for all the barrels?

Thanks!! 

 

I used some round nosed pliers and bend the wire around by hand, it could work just as well with something else, just make sure there is room for the rope you'll use for the breeching rope to move through easily.  Wire was bent into a hoop and then I cut out about 1/3 with wire cutters. Each was done somewhat by hand and trimming after each was test fitted.  Some are better than others, but I would say that the exact shape is hard to see when everything is done so don't obsess over it.

[drtrap]

I used some round nosed pliers and bend the wire around by hand, it could work just as well with something else, just make sure there is room for the rope you'll use for the breeching rope to move through easily.  Wire was bent into a hoop and then I cut out about 1/3 with wire cutters. Each was done somewhat by hand and trimming after each was test fitted.  Some are better than others, but I would say that the exact shape is hard to see when everything is done so don't obsess over it.

Thank you Jason, I think you told me to use cyano glue to fix them on the barrels, is thsi correct?

[Beef Wellington]

Thank you Jason, I think you told me to use cyano glue to fix them on the barrels, is thsi correct?

 

Correct Stergios, CA worked well.  I had another look at them last night, it probably closer to 2/3 that i cut away, but I'm sure you'll figure it out pretty quickly after a few attempts.  Its fiddly, but I did try to file the cut wire to the right angle so it had the maximum area touching the barrel.

[drtrap]

Correct Stergios, CA worked well.  I had another look at them last night, it probably closer to 2/3 that i cut away, but I'm sure you'll figure it out pretty quickly after a few attempts.  Its fiddly, but I did try to file the cut wire to the right angle so it had the maximum area touching the barrel.

Thanks again Jason!

Another one question: how have you fixed the deck blocks (walnut part No 1 ) on the deck of the model, using PVA or any kind of glue or drilling the deck for every kit to pass the 1,5 mm rod through each deck block and fixing them in place?

Sorry to ask you so many questions  but to my knowledge you;re the first and the only one who purchased those after market kits.

Cheers.

 

Stergios 

[Beef Wellington]

Thanks again Jason!

Another one question: how have you fixed the deck blocks (walnut part No 1 ) on the deck of the model, using PVA or any kind of glue or drilling the deck for every kit to pass the 1,5 mm rod through each deck block and fixing them in place?

Sorry to ask you so many questions  but to my knowledge you;re the first and the only one who purchased those after market kits.

Cheers.

 

Stergios 

 

Please ask anything, hope I can help.  The blocks were glued to the deck using CA glue.  I prefer to use PVA when I can, but CA was simplest option because the deck had been varnished and PVA will not work.  When you fix them, you'll want to try to get them as centered as possible otherwise the carronades will be at odd angles when you come to mount them.  Look forward to seeing your results.  All the best.

[drtrap]

Hi mates, a question in brief...:

how can I measure the width of a rope/line of the market, I mean how can I make clear its width/diameter?

Thanks