Simulated caulking

[dvm27]

My nicest looking planking has resulted from gluing the tissue paper to the storck then slicing off planks of the proper thickness. See Remco's link here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/410-hms-sphynx-by-alex-m-scale-148-english-20-gun-frigate-as-build-1775/?p=4274. The only problem is that the stock must be thicker than the widest plank and premium grade holly is hard to find these days.

[michael20]

 I use a charcoal pencil with good results. I actually like that better than a pencil. I've used a sharpie in the past but it seemed the color would seep into the wood and leave a not so crisp line between the planks after sanding.

  

   Happy modeling,

    Marty G.

[markjay]

I've seen a technique were a black thread, washed in diluted glue, was laid in after the the run of planking was complete (fore to aft). The the next line of planking was laid against the thread and so on. The ends of the planks were touched with black marker on one end only.
Has anyone employed this technique? Seems that this would give a clean none smearing line.

Mark

[Captain Poison]

I use ashes of cigarette mixed with water and white glue.

[JRB9019]

I have looked at the photos from the HMS Sphynx supplied via the link in Greg's posting.

 

The result looks very impressive - however I am wondering if the technique only works on larger scale models as in this 1/48 one.

 

Do you think it would be too much on, for example, a 1/64 model where teh 'soft pencil' or 'marker pen' approach tends to be used?

 

John

[Ulises Victoria]

I've seen a technique were a black thread, washed in diluted glue, was laid in after the the run of planking was complete (fore to aft). The the next line of planking was laid against the thread and so on. The ends of the planks were touched with black marker on one end only.

Has anyone employed this technique? Seems that this would give a clean none smearing line.

 

Mark

I tried it once with bad results. When sanding the threads would come off. Maybe I was doing something wrong.

[Tadeusz43]

Hi,

I use different ways for simulate caulking on the deck it depend of model scale.

Scale 1:100 or more I simple draw caulking lines with black fine liner.S/S Savannach under construction.

Scale 1:75 and around I am coloring the edges of veneer strips for deck planking with black permanent marker.

Friesland under construction.

Scale 1:48 and less I made caulking as black thread glued between deck planks.Golden Yacht.

 

Tadeusz

[JRB9019]

Nice models Tadeusz - I really like Golden Yacht

[JRB9019]

Before my first attempt at decking and calking, I dearched through the many ideas found on this site.

 

I wasn't too sure about the marker pen approach as in tests I had a lot of 'bleeding'. I then found the idea of using plaster filler and coloured it with black acrylic paint - and I'm sure to the looks of horror from the awesome specialists of there, this is what I used.

 

So, using the Three Butt Shift System, I completed the decking, leaving a small space between each plank.

I then finished off my “imitation” fittings by drilling holes in the appropriate in each plank.

 

I made up a batch of plaster filler and coloured it with black acrylic paint. I had tried this method on the lower deck – and perhaps because of the confines of the space hadn’t been too happy with the amount of colouring left behind. So, I lost my nerve and only coloured to a mid-grey !!

 

Using various tools, I applied the mix and ensured that all the gaps were filled both between the planks and my imitation fitting holes.

 

Quickly moving on, I cleaned and scraped the deck and finally sanded the whole lot down with fine sand-paper and finished off with 600 grade. Once all was smooth, a quick wipe-off and then a couple of coats of protective non-gloss varnish.

 

Normally in the past, when I have used varnish before, the varnish has really brought out the colours of the wood.

 

However, this varnish didn’t do that and so therefore the contrast between my caulking lines and “fittings” are somewhat lost. Still, not too bad for a first attempt!!

 

In retrospect, I'm quite happy with the result. Yes, the 'calking' isn't quite dark enough but I am happy with the deck as it has bleached apperance that I like.

 

I think I will try the 'black tissue paper' approach with my next ship, but still 'bleach' the deck using the method described above.

 

Below, a couple of shots of the finished deck....

 

 

 

 

 

[GuntherMT]

I see so many complicated, messy, and/or time consuming methods for caulking on this and other ship-building forums, yet the method suggested by Chuck and others that I used worked extremely well and doesn't require leaving gaps or mixing stuff etc.

 

#3b pencil blacken one edge, and one end of each plank before placing it.  Use wood glue to affix as normal, lightly sand when complete and then seal with your finish of choice (I used min-wax poly).

 

[jbshan]

Brian/Gunther, you got it.  The soft pencil leaves enough graphite and doesn't crush the edge.  The glue 'sets' it so it doesn't bleed or come off with scraping or sanding.  It is subtle enough in smaller scales and a bit uneven which looks good to my eye.  You really don't want stark black lines or you risk it looking cartoon-like.

I've only tried it on decks so far though I could have used it on my 1:24 Philadelphia hull perhaps.  I used paper between the deck planks there.  Quite a bit larger than the 1:64 I'd done before.