Prins Willem by amateur - Corel - 1:100

[Piet]

Very nicely done Jan.  Glad you have abandoned the Corel drawings, knowing you, you want it as authentic as possible.  You have to look at this ship for hopefully, a long time and if it's not right for that period ship it'll be a constant irritant to you.

 

That'll be my biggest problem when I start rigging my fictitious VOC ship Surabaya.  I don't have a clue, yet, about the rigging of these mid 17th century ships.  Research will be the name of the came and making plenty of sketches.

 

Keep at it my friend, she's looking fantastic.

 

Cheers, 

[amateur]

I find the book of Hoving (on the ships of Abel Tasman) a great help.

It is for a slightly smaller ship, but as almost everything in Dutch shipbuilding is supposed to be scalable, it is a very good startingpoint.

Problem is that I should have started using that book earlier in the proces: Not all belayingpoints are were they should be.

 

All

[amateur]

Hi everyone,

 

I did some work over teh last days. I reshaped one of my anchors (Still not perfect, perhhaps I'll need to build one myself). The problem is that it is to short, and too wide for the timeperiod. (and Corels casting is lousy)

 

 

I did some rigging on the foremast:

 

Problem is: miniature-rope does not quite behave like the real stuff. It allways curves in the wrong direction.

That's particularly annoying at the topmasts...

This is 0.15 mm Amati rope, it has been stretched, moisted, and waxed, and still...Problem is that the yard is so light, that it will not counterbalance the force of his springy rope...

 

I made some addiotional holes in the fore-tope to get the ropes down to the deck. A bit fiddly work, but I managed. (some of my ratlines worked themselves loose in the proces of rigging  , That's a problem I still haven't solved)

 

 

In the meantime: on to the next ropes.... (same mast, other side of the ship)

 

Jan

Edited January 1, 2015 by amateur

[mtaylor]

Jan,

 

You might try brushing the line with a 50/50 mix of white glue and water.  It's always seemed to work for me on taming those springy lines.  Looking super nice.

[foxy]

Having just arrived on this Great build, be it wood construction in 1/100.

 

Just love the rigging work you have done. 

 

Looking forward to more

 

Frank

[Guest]

Jan,

 

I have been working on the Willem again and getting to the point that I need to paint parts. I have been looking at your posted pictures as a guide, which is very helpful to me. I have also visited the Bataviawerf and taken many pictures. I figured these two sources would give me the best authentic color scheme.

Can you give me any tips as to standards that were used on VOC ships?

 

Thank you

 

JMS

[amateur]

I made it easy for myself. I followed batavia with respect to thecolours. In fact that colourscheme was more 18th than 17th century.

When looking at the original model, it is much closer to eg the colouring of the Wasa in stockholm.

 

The reason that I choose the ochre was that the sculpting as delivered by Corel does not match to the original. All those nakd women are not there in the original, which makes it difficult to paint the corel-stuff like the original. Besides, I did not trust my ability enough to try something more sophisticated.

 

Jan

[Guest]

Jan

 

Thanks' for the advice, it is appreciated.

 

I too have the Corel kit so your build log is extremely helpful. I reference it regularly. I use your log as much as the instructions with the kit.

 

Thanks for posting and the pictures really help. 

 

JMS

[Guest]

Jan

 

One more question if you don't mind.

It is about the channels referred to on page 2 of your build log. The Corel kit shows some small angle brackets on the top of the channels mounted to the ships hull. I don't see this on Dutch ships although they are common on some ships. Since you did not install them on your model I would assume that Corel has added them to aid in supporting the channels only and they are not part of Dutch ship building of this era.

 

Thank you

 

JMS

[amateur]

Corel did invent quite a lot on this kit.

As I never saw these brackets on any drawings nor on the Original model this kit is based upon, I took the liberty not to install them.

 

I made new chanels, but I didn't look at the model before I did , I foloowed the drawing by Ketting. As he draws the channels way too wide, there is too much distance between my shrouds and the hull...

 

I am always surprised at the relatovely large deadeyes used in those old models, and the complete lack of distance between them. We tend to set the distance almost tow or three times the diameter of those deadeyes. The old models have far less (although this model of Prins Willem is redone by Ketting in the seventies..)

 

Jan

Edited February 25, 2015 by amateur

[Guest]

Jan

 

Thank you

[john a joosten]

Hello Amateur,

 

Since I started the prins Willem by "Corell", about two years ago, I have been watching this site for some time. The rigging

 

is almost done. Now I got the notion that it does not look complete without some sails.

 

I know that I should have gotten the sails before doing most of the rigging. There were problems getting the sails.

 

Now I have a question that you may be able to answer for me.

 

What is the function of these "main yard stunsails booms", on the lower main and fore mast that are running parallel to the

 

main yard?

 

How do they attach or work with the sails?

 

Any useful explanation would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.   

 

John.

 

 

[amateur]

Usually these are used for attaching additional sails. However,

I never saw these things rigged in contemporaneous pictures, so I guess they were not frequently used.

the model of PW was rerigged several times over its life, so I'm also not sure how original these stunsail-things are. 

 

 

Jan

[john a joosten]

Usually these are used for attaching additional sails. However,

I never saw these things rigged in contemporaneous pictures, so I guess they were not frequently used.

the model of PW was rerigged several times over its life, so I'm also not sure how original these stunsail-things are. 

 

 

Jan

   

   Thank you Jan,

 

   For your considerate opinion, very much appreciated.

 

   John.

[john a joosten]

   Thank you Jan,

 

   For your considerate opinion, very much appreciated.

 

   John.

 

      Hi Jan,

 

      I have another or one more question about rigging of the sails.

 

     On this "Prins Willem", when hanging the lower sails from the yards, where do the bottom lines,

 

     that come from the bottom corner of each sail attach to?

 

     Cheers,

 

     John.

Edited April 15, 2015 by bluefinger

[amateur]

They are shown in your rigging plan.

The riggin gplan by Corel shows all the sheets (including those from the lower sails): the clew-lines are rigged, including the clew block, with the sheets attached to it. Only the sail is "missing".

the sheets are going backwards, the fore-sheet is going inboard just in front of the main mast, the main sheets are going al the way back to the poop-deck.

 

Jan

[john a joosten]

Hi Jan,

 

I am fore ever grateful for the information (reminder) you have send me about the rigging for this historic and beautiful "Prins Willem".

 

Vriendelijke groeten,

John.

[amateur]

Time for an update. Did some rigging at the main mast (destroyed the falgpole on the mizzen while doing so....)

 

Situation at the foot of the mast. Discovered that I needed an additional strop around the mast to get the parrels rigged. (the pins are there to prevent the little eyes in the rope from disappearing)

 

Than the parrels of the main yard. My ideal was to get them working, but that didn't turn out possible. So I went just for the looks. Trust me: without the macro it is better

 

And one from the front-end. I redid the crowsfeet: thinner and darker thread. The light one was to prominent. (I even don't know why they rigged this ship with one, I don't think the original had them) 

 

No time for rigging in the remainder of the week (month), so don't expect an additional update soon. (But I guess that you didn't expect one at all )

 

Jan

Edited May 24, 2015 by amateur

[Bobstrake]

Jan,

Make no mistake, your rigging is awsome! I've seen it progress and I'm impressed.

[Guest]

Jan

 

I am ready to start the rigging on my Prins Willem project. It is the same kit as yours.

Can you give me any quick does or dont's and is there a best place to start?

 

I have built a few tall ship models but none with the rigging complexity as in this kit.

 

JMS

[amateur]

The easiest way is just go by Corels instructions. They are relatively easy to follow, as they give eachblock and belayingpint a number, and the rigging instruction says which order you have to follow fromblock to block.

 

They also follow the standard practice: first the shrouds, next the stays, than the backstays, and finally the running rigging.

Standing rigging was treated with stockholm tar, a dark brown oily substance, which acted as a preservative. running rigging wasnt treated.

For the ratlines: draw a template, and keep that behind the srhouds to get your lines evenly, and prevent the outer shrouds to be pulled inward, as a resukt of too much tension in the ratlines.

 

 

alternatively, you can try to come somewhat closer to the original practice, and buy a larkger range of blocksizes and rope diameters. In that case don'tmake my mistake..I did not make a complete overview of what should go where, so i had to redo quite a number of my blocks and lines, as I discovered too late that iput thewrong size in the wrong place ....

 

Jan

[Guest]

Jan

 

Thanks for the information.

 

And thank you for posting the pictures they are very helpful.

 

JMS

[*Hans*]

Nice job Jan - looking good!

 

thread not behaving the way you want it is the most annoying thing there is.  

[amateur]

thanks! I should spend some time on her/him to get the rigging done.

 

Jan

[amateur]

Long time ago, I did sometimes post an updat ehere.

Let's continue that tradition.

 

I did some work on the Mizzen:

 

The mizzen-yard has a halyard(?) using a tripple block. The parrel has to come around the strop of the lower block, to get the whole thing slightly closer to the mast.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b6oUhGBUNvA/VkNafExV2uI/AAAAAAAABys/gP0vdGbftWQ/s800-Ic42/IMG_1057.JPG[/img]

The parrel is slightly too short, I have to put another bead on the rope. Next it has to go round the mast, the ropes through the deadeye, and a violin-block attached to it. (fun to do: the block can only be fitter after the parrel is installed (wish my eyes were better, and my fingers less thick:) )

The bowlines were a bit opf a problem. Andersson shows tham attached to the last aftmost shroud. (as most of the contemporaneous models do) However, the distance between the mizzen and the shrouds is relatievely large, so fitting them to the shrouds was visually not so pleasing. Therefore I followed Ketting, in attaching them to a block attached to the railing, just in front of the half-deck.

 

 

Last puzzle: getting all ropes on a fair amount of tension, results in the mizzen going up and aft, while it should go (by sheer laws of gravity: down and foreward). (not too much, otherwise it touches the great capstan, and that should be left free)

 

To be continued .....(sometime in the distant future  :mrgreen:) 

 

 

(pics are a bit fuzzy, because macro and flash don't go together too well)

 

Jan

Edited November 11, 2015 by amateur

[Piet]

Slowly but surely, one piece at a time - - eventually you'll get tere Jan   Don't you love that "priegel werk" ???  Just looking at all those ropes makes me realize what awaits me.

Hey, I bought some green paint for my Surabaya model that looks like what you have there.

 

Keep it up Jan, we like to see it finished.

 

Cheers, 

[amateur]

Hi Piet,

 

Yes , you sure are going to get some priegelwerk. I like it, but it is not a job that you can do fice minutes a day. You need some serious time. And that's where other life interferee....

But i'll get there, eventually....

 

Jan

[amateur]

Slowly, very, very slowly....

 

Murphy is not far away, knots getting loose, sometimes finding out that things were not quite right (the lanyards of the mizzen stay getting stuck behind the parrel of the main yard ....grrrr....)

 

The forestay is a problem: so many ropes attached to it, that it wants to go forward, even while the individuel ropes are not tensioned. I don't get it better than it is now....

 

The mizzen yard

 

And its parrel, quite fiddly stuff.....

 

Jan

Edited November 23, 2015 by amateur

[amateur]

As a small inbwtween job, I did not do any rigging today, but tried to make a stern lantern. (i definitely refuse to use teh Corel-stuf from the kit)

I came up with a third prototype (still to be improved upon, yes, I know)

The problem are still numerous:

1. gluing of the window-panes

2. the orientation of the six-sided top and bottom (the whole thing should end up symmetrically )

3. the copper wire was glued in with CA. It turned the window-panes into the famous milky-white (on the inside of course....)

 

Jan

Edited December 26, 2015 by amateur

[Piet]

Wow, that looks rather nice for a prototype John!  Yeah, CA can be a problem with plastics but even with the frosted condition it looks great.  Two part epoxy perhaps?

 

Cheers,