Landlubber Mike Posted May 3, 2014 Share #1 Posted May 3, 2014 Hi everyone, I've decided on my next build to replace the kit would with better wood from Jeff at Hobbymill. I'm thinking ahead about how to create and finish the keel and stem post. I have the Byrnes table saw and disc sander at the moment, but was wondering, for the longer pieces, how do you sand them to have a perfectly straight line? On the disc sander, I think you're only supposed to sand on one side of the disc. So for longer pieces that exceed the radius, can you use the disc sander? Or is there some other way to ensure that long lines are straight? Thanks! Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMBROOK Posted May 3, 2014 Share #2 Posted May 3, 2014 The cheap no thrills way I do this is to glue glasspaper to a long(at least 200mm) piece of wood.You get far more control than messing with a normal sanding block and if you make it long and narrow,you are less likely to 'dome' the face you are sanding. Kind Regards Nigel Quote Currently working on Royal Caroline Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael mott Posted May 3, 2014 Share #3 Posted May 3, 2014 I agree with Nigel use some double sided tape and make yourself some long sanding sticks if you use the edge of a wider board it will remain rigid and be easier to hold. Michael Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share #4 Posted May 3, 2014 Thank you guys! Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmajor Posted May 3, 2014 Share #5 Posted May 3, 2014 Mike, An idea that I picked up from an ex tool maker is to clamp the long sanding device in a vice or on the bench then move the item to be sanded along the top. I have some long straight files which I clamp in to my vice for this purpose. One thing to watch out for when doing this (teaching granny to suck eggs here probably ) is that the resistance from the sandpaper is backwards along the underside of the piece but your forward pressure to move the piece is along the top. This tends to give a rotating force that puts more pressure on the front edge of the piece that can, if not counteracted, result in tapering at the front of the piece. It is a great way of doing your nails at the same time. Landlubber Mike 1 Quote Ian M. Current build: HMS Unicorn (1748) - Corel Kit Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjdale Posted May 3, 2014 Share #6 Posted May 3, 2014 You could always invest in a Thickness sander from Jim Bynes Same fantastic quality as his other tools. Perhaps not applicable in all situations, but worth thinking about. Brian the extraordinaire 1 Quote Grant ____________________________________________________ Current builds: African Queen - Radio Control / Live Steam Previous builds: The Shipyard at Foss' Landing (Diorama), Hannah - Ship in a Bottle, NRG Capstan Project, 1869 Allerton Steam Pumper, Medway Longboat , Alfa Romeo Spider Gran Touring (Pocher) , Da Vinci Flying Machine, 1949 Chris Craft 19' Racing Runabout - Dumas - Radio, Bomb Vessel Granado, 1742 - Cross Section - Scratchbuild, HMS Victory (Mamoli 1:90), Cutty Sark, Armed Pinnace, Bounty, Santa Maria At another place: Stephenson's Rocket (OcCre 1:24) (click the title to follow the link) In the Gallery: Lancia Armata 1803, Bomb Vessel Granada, 1742 Cross Section, 1949 Chris Craft 19' Racing Runabout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q A's Revenge Posted May 4, 2014 Share #7 Posted May 4, 2014 Someone on here has a very useful looking jig used with a drum sander held in a drill press. Seems like a great idea as a budget thicknesser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share #8 Posted May 4, 2014 You could always invest in a Thickness sander from Jim Bynes Same fantastic quality as his other tools. Perhaps not applicable in all situations, but worth thinking about. I was wondering about this - can you use the thickness sander where the piece is fed through the machine on its thinner end? Or do you build some sort of sled so that the piece stays perpendicular to the table? I did invest in a Byrnes thickness sander, but unfortunately it was damaged during shipping last week. Jim has been very helpful in working with the shipping company. Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share #9 Posted May 4, 2014 Mike, An idea that I picked up from an ex tool maker is to clamp the long sanding device in a vice or on the bench then move the item to be sanded along the top. I have some long straight files which I clamp in to my vice for this purpose. One thing to watch out for when doing this (teaching granny to suck eggs here probably ) is that the resistance from the sandpaper is backwards along the underside of the piece but your forward pressure to move the piece is along the top. This tends to give a rotating force that puts more pressure on the front edge of the piece that can, if not counteracted, result in tapering at the front of the piece. It is a great way of doing your nails at the same time. Thanks Ian that makes a lot of sense and explains why my pieces never get sanded flat Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJSoane Posted May 5, 2014 Share #10 Posted May 5, 2014 I have found it helpful to sand in one direction for 10 strokes, the reverse the piece and sand again for 10 strokes. No matter how hard I try to keep things level, inevitably I do favor one hand or side more than another. Switching periodically helps even things out. And also check with digital calipers periodically at each and on each side, to ensure that you are doing everything evenly. You can press a little harder on one end or side to even things up as you go along. Checking often means you only have to adjust a little at a time, rather than dealing with a big taper at the end. Mark Landlubber Mike 1 Quote Current build: HMS Bellona 74, ca. 1760, 1:64 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/196-hms-bellona-by-sjsoane-scale-164-1760-as-designed/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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