Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I must admit I was a bit shocked how the colour of the wood just burst through when the varnish was applied, deep colour, looks nothing like prior to varnish (see Pic) Contructo supply some beautiful wood. I will be adding satin after sanding for the second coat just to tone down the shine.

post-11858-0-82868900-1408125315_thumb.jpg

Posted

It looks as though you've pinned your hull planking while the glue sets but then removed the pins.  The hull looks so smooth in the photos. What glue did you use? I'd be scared that it wouldn't hold without nailing it, but then I don't want the nails to show when I paint it.

Posted

 

 

 

 

Hi

The very start I pinned her with the pins supplied which snap on removal and found it very slow and tedious also I broke two tiny drill bits, as they need pre drilling to prevent splitting the wood. I never thought of the idea to use them large pins, fitted next to the wood not actually through it, I pinched the idea but it worked really well for me. Ok back to the question, I use Everbuild 502 wood adhesive it handles high loading/stress areas. Ideal for a peice of timber fighting to be straight again. Really its strong stuff and initially bonds in ten mins but solid in 4 hours. Just like PVA in its use and dries clear.

Posted

They look quite beautiful, but quite an undertaking for sure. As far as gluing versus nailing, the glues on the market today from wood glues to super glues, they bond quite well and will last for many, many years, especially if the wood is properly bent before applying. I have built models some I have left the nails in while others I pull them out and some are close to 20 years old and have no structural issues from removing the nails. Most model kits expect you to cut off the head of the nails and then drive the nail flush, so there isn't much attachment there from the nails anyway.    

Posted

Great work there Paul, that looks fantastic work on the stern balusters.

 

Do you have the anatomy of nelsons ships by C Nepean Longridge, on page 142 is a Diagram of how this was done.

Copyright prevents me from showing a picture.

 

Not sure if this will help, as you seem to be getting there with that wonderfull baluster look in your picture.

 

Foxy :piratebo5:

Posted

I decided to have a week off due to DIY project for the wife, just made a re start on rear frames. This will take a while especially making the decorative turnings.

post-11858-0-37665000-1409171740_thumb.jpg

Posted

Hello paul

Just had a look through your log after missing you for a while. Excellent work throughout, and very clean and tidy. It looks like you are creating something special for yourself. Keep up the good work and enjoying your build. DAVID

Posted

So near, all framed just trim to add, so far all the top two layers frames removed all glazing scrapped and windows recut. Why, when trimmimg was being fitted it became apparent that the trims were not going to meet, actually well off despite the bottom windows being perfect and the upper were pre fabricated. How I did not see this prior to all the glazing and framing is beyond me. Well im having to raise both the middle later and the top layer to line it all up. Oh and then re glaze and frame... OH JOY. Tinyelle be extra careful not to suffer the same fate

post-11858-0-92076500-1409594094_thumb.png

post-11858-0-67989800-1409594138_thumb.jpg

Posted

Hi Paul

I am about to start on building the Victory, Constructo. Like you this is my first venture and have found a lot of help looking at the wonderful job you have done, so much so that I have copied your photos to study. Keep up the good work and hope I can do as well as you.

David

Posted

Hi david

Please when fitting the canon back boards push them to there lowest point, there is some up and down movement, push them down, this prevented you having to add pieces through a canon port as I had to, see pics. And pay particular ATTN to the rear quarters and the lining up of the windows, I'm rectifying my issue, bottom windows no problem, its the two above. Enjoy your build and so glad I'm assisting especially as instructions are vauge at times.

Posted

Hi Paul

Thank you for the information about the canon back boards I had noticed you had a problem and wondered how to cure it. I will picking up my kit next Thursday so all these points will be very helpful when I start. I am making a note book of the points as it will be a while before I reach some of them

Posted (edited)

I am still tearing the rear section to pieces to re position the windows to match the trims to be installed, not fun doing the framing once but twice.

post-11858-0-85579600-1410178429_thumb.jpg

post-11858-0-69673100-1410178492_thumb.jpg

Edited by Paul0367
Posted

All windows repositioned now, trims refitted and turnings being fitted prior to final shaping, then I can finally move on from this section, anyone building this kit please check, check and recheck your side windows will be level with the rear before committing to the sticky stuff.

Please don't get as far as I did before realising the problem, its a nightmare to correct and really time consuming. Well hope my mistake saves you from one

post-11858-0-67364100-1410783442_thumb.jpg

post-11858-0-06223000-1410783459_thumb.jpg

Posted

Absolutely beautiful work. I can't get over how beautiful that wood is. You are doing fantastic work. But remember, don't over think things, (I have to tell myself this all the time) and remember this is YOUR representation of the model or ship as to how you see it. You aren't building the model for a museum, but rather for you and others to enjoy and sometimes mistakes can be happy accidents as long as you are happy with the results.  

 

But I have been there on more than one occasion when it comes to having to do something two and three times. What kills me is when I finish the third construction on a particular piece only to realize that I liked it better the way it was the first time. Also the more you mess up and have to correct something on the model is just more time that you will get to spend with it because one day, like a child, it will be all grown up and finished, then what? I always looked at my models as my babies and when finished although it brought joy and satisfaction, it also brought a bit of sadness and a tear to my eye. :D

 

Mike    

Posted

Hey thanks for the compliments Mike, the beautiful wood your refering to, would that be the cocktail sticks i'm using for my turnings. As for me doing it all again, I just had to, I couldn't leave it knowing it was all off line, I guess most people would probably never have noticed and I could have let it be but I just had to correct it. This just adds to the time but i'm in no rush, there was a point as I was hacking chunks out of the rear that I may be making a mistake but in the end its veneered wood so I just had to gently peel the vaneer and rematch the new, Oh and re do all the windows and surrounds. The progress is slow now due to all the big dramatic stuff being done, decking / planking etc.

It appears that i'm a trail blazer on Model Ship Worlds site and that i'm the only Contructo kit Victory builder thats at this stage of build( that I can find) so I have no one to bounce off. I have been salavating over the topics of the Caldercraft version, the rear detailing is sublime and one day she will be a future venture after ive cut my teeth in this new hobby.

Posted (edited)

It's turning out fantastic and your use of the sticks in original, but that is what we have to do at times. I'm always looking at things and wondering how I could use that item in a model hahahahahaha. I'm kind of wishing now that I had went with the Constructo version and modified it. Although I like the Latina version, I'm missing numerous parts, some of which would be difficult at best to replicate such as the brass hammock stays. I'm missing the entire sheet of those, several sails, several different pieces of wood just to list a few things that I know of right now. I have been getting the run around from Artesania Latina for the last couple of weeks trying to get just the hammock stays and possibly the large main sail, the rest I can fabricate. But so far I have passed along from pillar to post and no straight yes or no answer from them as yet. To replace the hammock stays brass sheet with an optional one will cost about $60.00 and must be ordered from England. :angry:

Edited by mtdoramike
Posted

That's not good at all, I have a few issues with possible shortfalls but that is because I add extra trim with wood from the kit to look as close as possible to the real ship. the kit doesn't allow for this not to mention losses due to snapping when trying a bend but having fittings missing is very annoying. Try Cornwall model boats site, OK in the UK but very good. I do hope you get sorted, especially as she is for your local libray .

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Absolutely supurb Paul, I remember seeing the early photo's on your phone, I thought the ship was a lot larger than it actually is due to the detail. It was only when I saw her in the flesh so to speak that I was taken aback by such skill and patience, keep up the good, strike that, excellent work.

Garry

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...