Second Layer Planking Guide

[caveman]

Hi,

 

I'm a novice modeler who is trying to build Gretel Yacht at the moment.  I'm about to finish the first layer planking already. My question is, how will I plank the second layer?  How will I stabilize them on top of the first layer planks as the glue dries? Should I pin them? I don't think the pin holes will look good afterwards.

 

Also, I'm concerned that the second layer planks are very thin (0.5 mm). I should not spill excess glue on the planks, they will look really bad. I've read the planking guides on thie site but I couldn't see proper visual guide for this second layer planking. If you can lead me to an article, I would appreciate very much.

 

Thanks,

Baris.

[Chuck]

The second is no different than the first.  I recommend lining off your hull as mentioned in several of the online articles here.  Then shaping and spiling your planks to suit.  That is truly the only way to do it properly.  I would also add that using only the kit supplied planks might be a problem as you may have to cut your shaped planks from wider sheets of wood.

 

Chuck

[russ]

Baris:
I agree with Chuck about the proper way to plank. I would definitely recommend those planking guides that Chuck linked to. I also realize that you are probably wanting to work within the confines of the kit.

 

Those kit supplied planking strips will work, you will just have to cut them to fit and let them lay on the first layer as naturally as possible. It is not how the boat was actually planked, but it will get the job done and look nice if done with care.

 

You can use pins to hold your second layer planks in place, but pin into the first layer and let the cap of the pin hold down the second layer plank. That way there will be no unsightly holes in the finished planking.

 

As for glue, I like to use yellow carpenter's glue, but any good water based glue will work fine. Just keep a damp rag handy to wipe off squeeze out etc. This is much easier than using super glues, but it will take a bit longer to dry.

 

Russ

Edited February 23, 2013 by russ

[caveman]

Chuck and Russ,

 

Thank you for the advices. I've read those articles, but I understand them more clearly as I practically build the model Doing the stuff teaches a lot.

 

Maybe it's not a perfectionist approach but I will use the kit planks. Let's see how it happens for the moment.

 

I understood and liked the "cap of the pin" trick, I'll do it also.

 

Thanks again.

 

Baris.

[NenadM]

Planking is a really piece of art,  and top craft of modelling ships. And hard for us beginners 

[jspector]

Baris,  I will be receiving my Gretel kit next week.  I am planning my supplies for planking.  Can you tell me: how thick are the bulkheads?  I ordered some special clamps that only work to 3/16" thick bulkheads. Thanks.

[pirozzi]

Using the cap of the pin is a good way, but even better yet is to use miniature railroad spikes. They have a larger head on one side and are made to hold down with the long side. You can buy them at any hobby store.

 

Vince P.

[allanyed]

Hello Baris,

Properly spiled planks can be soaked and pre-bent and dried before gluing to the model.  If this is done, they can be held with the fingers for a minute or less while the glues starts to set.(aliphatic glue).  There is no need for pinning.   That said, making perfectly spiled planks is not always possible if only using strips of wood such as come in kits rather than cutting from sheet stock as mentioned by Chuck.  A number of planking clamp designs have been shown on this site including many by Ed Tosti in his Naiad build log (and books.)  They eliminate the need for using pins. 

Allan