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HMS Pegasus by louis nicholas - Amati - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship kit build


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Welcome Louis to the Swan Class build. It is a great kit and I hope you enjoy the process of building it. You've probably already had a look at the many logs for it. I, like Blue Ensign and others, are modifying it to more closely follow the Seawatch book series on the Swan Class - The Fully Framed Model. Volume II and Volume IV being the strongest references. Dan's build of the Vulture in the scratch built forum follows this as well but in much greater detail. However straight out of the box it will still make a fantastic model and adherence to the FFM is a personal choice rather than a necessity.

 

I look forward to seeing your start and progress. With all the Swan builders here you are sure to get lots of advice and answers to any questions.

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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Greetings from another Swan class builder. For a first timer, you've surely picked a though one. Not impossible, though. Lot's of reference material here and as the others have said, the TFFM series of books are invaluable (just to help wrap your head around some of the concepts). Don't be afraid to ask questions, we've all hacked our way down this path before. Wood is forgiving, and extra parts can be ordered. You can honestly expect to take at least a year or longer on this build (I'm on my third, but mostly because I didn't manage any work last winter at all, so don't feel bad).

 

Welcome to the Swan club!

 

Andy

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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Hi! Thank you all, for your supportive feedbacks. ;) I have read nearly each, and everyone of your pegasus's blogs. Specially  Blue Ensign. I must say that I expect the build to be very challenging, (backed up after seeing builders talking about the slightly inappropriate fittings) and I had heard about the bible, TFFM. I just wonder, is there anything that I should beware about the rib construction with Victory models? Thank you very much, :D

Nicholas

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Hi Nicholas

All the bulkheads fitted well on my kit - no issues to alert you to excepting for the normal need to get them square, true and properly seated on the centre piece. As you'll see in other logs the gun port plywood strips are where the kit gets a little bit more challenging...

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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It got slightly frustrated when I slide two of the ribs in the wrong slot, but now its fixed, jolly good! Now, when I looked on the plans, they told me to plank the deck but leave the middle part un-planked, which kind of doesn't make sense to me, as the middle is the bit that is showed under sunlight. Why should I leave the middle not planked? Any brilliant ideas?

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Edited by louis nicholas
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Hi nice start shaping the frames before fitting would have made life a bit easier later, I would recommend filling the first few frames and the last two with balsa to help with the bow and stern profile, fully rigging the cannons in place will be hard enough on a first build and I had to go down to 2mm blocks for the tackles so they do not just jam up, working gun tackle at this scale would be a first, plus if the guns are not fixed down gravity would play havoc when the build needed to be on its side for instance.

Ray

 

 Current build A set of HMS Diana`s boats @ 1/48

 HMS Royal Marine a Military class Trawler

 Completed  HMS Diana

Completed build The Lady Nelson

Completed Build HMS Pegasus

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Hi Louis

I'm with Spyglass here. On my log you can see an area of lower deck planking beneath the fore/ladder hatch. This is just visible when the ladder is in place.

 

I use an HB pencil to simulate caulking. Some do it on only one side of adjoining planks - this makes repairing any gaps easier. I do it on both and hope I don't have gaps! 

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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Nice progress Louis.

 

I'm guessing your deck fittings aren't fixed down yet but one small note; your riding bit is the wrong way around - the bit should be aft of the pins not forward of them.

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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Thank you all for your advises. It took me 3 hours to sand the bulkheads this morning after seeing your pics, and finally, I planked the gun port decks. I used mainly tape to help the the curve stay, though it was intense, specially the head of the ship, where the wood never obeys the curve, but I am very happy with how pretty little pegasus is shaping herself :P I am currently meeting a huge problem with cannon rigging, can anyone show me details of this?( I need a bit of explanation to the rigging in logs...)thank you very much

Edited by louis nicholas
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After further shaping the bulkheads, started planking the ship, difficult indeed, and made a mess in planking the head, the gunport at the other side is not fixed yet . Although it took 5 hours, it was very enjoyable to see the ship slowly shaping. (when I looked at my ship from a distance, it looked like a hedgehog.)

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Edited by louis nicholas
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Louis - Seems like you've been really busy, the planking can be a challenge!  Its hard to tell from the photos with all the pins, but I'd really recommend trying to get a nice fit of the planks to the stem, I think you'll really appreciate that when you get to the second planking.  If you haven't already, I also suggest you consider putting in 'stealers' in between you planking where you have the gaps, especially the stern and the stem, you'd need to cut these to shape but would probably look like long thin triangles.  That will give you an opportunity to get the hull to the smooth shape you want.  I'm sure the others with experience of this particular kit can probably offer some more specific advice.  Its fun isn't it ?  :)

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Hi Louis. Speedy progress by you.

 

Some comments:

I agree with Jason, getting the turn up of the planks to the lower counter at the stern correct is very important even on the first layer. I think your planking looks a little loose there at the moment.

 

At the bow the planks should all be tapered so that they all meet the stem. That is the lower planks shouldn't turn up to butt into a planking band above them as you have done. This doesn't matter on the first layer but is worth pursuing on the second layer. To do it, only the first plank below the plywood pattern is not tapered. Every other plank is and the taper needs to start quite a long way back on the hull.

 

I think there are some good photos of the bow planking in Blue Ensigns log and there is a photo of my stern planking in my log.

 

Keep enjoying yourself!!

Edited by aliluke

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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Hello Louis if I may offer a comment, you seem to be moving very quickly on your build, and you may find it beneficial to step back and familiarise yourself with the basics of hull planking. It is better to treat the first planking as a dress rehearsal for the second layer and time spent getting it right pays dividends in terms of much greater satisfaction.

 

I don't know if you've seen it but here's a link to the main MSW site and pdf downloads including simple hull planking.

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php

 

I know I found it of great benefit when I returned to  wooden kits after many years away from the hobby.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

 

 

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Hi Louis

I've had a closer look at your photos. To be blunt- you are in trouble. You really need to take a step back. The model is founded on the plywood patterns, bulkheads and first planking. You need fillers between the bulkheads - see my log - and much more fairing of the bulkheads. The plywood pattern must follow the flow of the hull. If it is flat and the planks below it angle down it is wrong. This, by your photos, is what you have made. Sanding and filling will not fix this. You will really struggle from here on if these issues aren't fixed and the kit and your investment in it deserves better. There is joy to be had in making these things but I see pain ahead for you.

 

I do not like saying this and you don't want to hear it, but to continue, with success, you have to undo the plywood gun port pattern and all of the planking to date. This is my opinion. This forum would be pointless if I couldn't express this and I hate to see model makers fall at the first hurdle and then disappear.

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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I hope that the quality this time can be regarded as good(descent, at least, though I do need to fill those pin holes)  :o

I had another look at other logs, and also of course, the web page introduced by Blue Ensign, very helpful indeed. I did another plank, just to see whether the 1st plank must be removed, I accept all feedbacks regarding this.

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Edited by louis nicholas
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Louis - the second planking turned out better than could be expected so I'll take my hat off to you  :D , not sure if you made any changes to the first planking or not.  You seem to have a solid hull shape with which to work from now.  I'm building my first ship as well, so hope my experiences are useful and relevant.  I'd suggest the following - its hard to see all the detail in the photos but I'm sure you'll get lots of constructive support from the group here.

 

  1. Take your time with sanding the hull to get a nice smooth finish and bring out the beautiful lines of the Pegasus - getting a good smooth, even surface will be really important.  If necessary, use some wood filler for any gaps or low points.  If I didn't stress it enough the first time, take your time
  2. I definitely recommend spending time to ensure that you get a nice sharp line between the hull planking and the stem and keel, and that it follows the side profile shown in the plans.  Take a look at some photos in other logs how this should look.  I think patience will be important again here to get the result you are looking for.  You will likely encounter a lot of issues with the copper plates unless you address this.
  3. Other Fly/Pegasus  builders can comment more on this, but I'd check the thickness of the hull at the stern post to the thickness of the rudder.  These should be the same.  It appears from the photos that you planked over the false keel which adds additional thickness to the hull at that point.  You will likely again need to spend time sanding this profile down to correct dimensions.  It may be that you nearly sand through the second planking to get this result.  This could also give you real problems when it comes to attaching the rudder when you get to that point.

If I haven't said it enough ( ;) ), take your time as you are building the foundations for how the rest of the build will go.  If its any guide, it probably took me around 2-3 months to get to this point on my Snake.  Look forward to seeing how you progress.

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Louis

I agree with everything Jason says. You have quite a bit of fairing to do - take your time.

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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Look forward to seeing photos of your progress Louis.  As for the copper plates, there is a lot of discussion on this, although it boils down to personal preference.  I found that using CA (superglue) works just fine - however, it comes in different thicknesses/viscosities.  You should use the 'thick' type as this will give you time to place the copper plate.  I have only done coppering once and used the Caldercraft "thick professional" CA glue and it worked well for me (very small amounts is all it takes). I'm sure other brands work just as well.  You should be careful not to get the glue on the outside of the plates as this will prevent the copper from developing a patina where the glue is, and could look rather odd in the future.  I also bought some 'Super Solvent' in case of accidents which can be used to clean off any CA glue get on the plates while it is still fresh - works quite well but does require some rubbing.  Best of luck!

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Louis

I'm with Jason, I used a thick superglue too. It must be almost impossible not to get some glue on the outside of the plates. I used acetone and a very fine steel wool to clean any residue off.

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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