AndrewNaylor Posted June 30, 2014 Share #1 Posted June 30, 2014 I have seen some wonderful tutorials on Table top saws and other power equipment but never seen on on Scroll saws Hope fully I am not an idiot and I know where the ON switch is but some tricks of the trade would be very useful I have a Ryobie Scroll saw possibly not the best, but the best for my budget. The center piece of plastic has a large hole in the center ( much larger than the blade) with two slots at 90" from each other made for angling the table top but with loads of space between the blade and hole edge. It is not flush with the work surface .5mm out has any one modified this The Blowing bellows would be use less on a 1 year olds birthday cake but been a non smoker i can still manage to blow away any dust So my question is really Scroll speed, Number of teeth and speed (RPM not narcotics) Thank you Andy Quote Current Build HM Granado CC Past builds HMS Chatham CC, HM Convulsion CC, Duke William German Kit, Fair American LSS, The Wright Flyer MS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted June 30, 2014 Share #2 Posted June 30, 2014 Andy, I have book and I forget where I bought it (possibly Lowe's)... Big Book of Scroll Saw Woodworking from Fox Chapel Publishing. It's supposed to be the "best" from Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts Magazine. ISBN 978-1-56523-426-0, I've found it very helpful and I continue to reference it. justsayrow and WackoWolf 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjdale Posted June 30, 2014 Share #3 Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) Andy, I'm no expert with the scroll saw, being a relative newcomer to this piece of machinery, but to overcome the issue with the large-ish hole in the centre of the table, I just made a new table top from 3mm MDF. It is exactly the same size as the original but with only a very small hole in the centre - just large enough to pass a blade through. The new top is simply placed on top of the original and held in place with clamps. It works a treat. One "upgrade" to this idea might be to coat the MDF with wax of some sort to make it easier to glide the workpiece over, but I haven't found this to be an issue........yet. From trial and error, I have found that the thinner the workpiece stock, the greater number of teeth you should have in the blade (which I think reduces the tendency for the blade to "grab" the work piece). Also, the thinner the workpiece stock, the slower the blade speed - for the same reason. As I said though, these are only my observations from trial and error with some very thin stock (1/32"). I believe Greg Herbert posted something about recommended blades at one point - might have been on MSW 1.0 though. My only other observation is that scroll saw blades are just as capable of inflicting serious bodily harm as any other power tool. Don't ask me how I know, but I was lucky! Edited June 30, 2014 by gjdale Quote Grant ____________________________________________________ Current builds: African Queen - Radio Control / Live Steam Previous builds: The Shipyard at Foss' Landing (Diorama), Hannah - Ship in a Bottle, NRG Capstan Project, 1869 Allerton Steam Pumper, Medway Longboat , Alfa Romeo Spider Gran Touring (Pocher) , Da Vinci Flying Machine, 1949 Chris Craft 19' Racing Runabout - Dumas - Radio, Bomb Vessel Granado, 1742 - Cross Section - Scratchbuild, HMS Victory (Mamoli 1:90), Cutty Sark, Armed Pinnace, Bounty, Santa Maria At another place: Stephenson's Rocket (OcCre 1:24) (click the title to follow the link) In the Gallery: Lancia Armata 1803, Bomb Vessel Granada, 1742 Cross Section, 1949 Chris Craft 19' Racing Runabout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveF Posted June 30, 2014 Share #4 Posted June 30, 2014 Hi Andy: I have a King Scroll saw and got the book as well. Excellent reference. If you go on line and check out Intarsia wood working. These people use scroll saws exclusively, and the information on various web sites is outstanding. One blade I wound up purchasing and use is a round shaft cutting blade. They have various "teeth". What I like about this is you don't have to move the blade to do work 90 degrees to each cut. Because it is a shaft or round you just move the work in that direction. It took me a while to get used to using this type of blade but I will not use any other. Check out the Intarsia sites and they will tell you where to get the blades. Its been so long since I ordered I cant come across where off hand. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete38 Posted June 30, 2014 Share #5 Posted June 30, 2014 Take a look at this previous thread on blades and places to buy them. The sites for blades has some good useful information on blades. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1028-scroll-saw-blades/ Quote Triton Cross Section 1:32 SEE YA LATER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewNaylor Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share #6 Posted June 30, 2014 Thank you all for your help off to the book and tool shop I go Much thanks Andy Quote Current Build HM Granado CC Past builds HMS Chatham CC, HM Convulsion CC, Duke William German Kit, Fair American LSS, The Wright Flyer MS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted June 30, 2014 Share #7 Posted June 30, 2014 Andy, You can make a zero clearance plug for hole. Check the depth for the insert and get a piece of plywood to that thickness. Cut it out to match the plastic insert and then drill a hole where the blade comes through. It's more tedious than hard to make. WackoWolf 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewNaylor Posted July 1, 2014 Author Share #8 Posted July 1, 2014 Thanks Mark I will access to a machine shop soon and take you up on that idea as well as making a new cutting surface out of lexan to allow smooth move ment and a very small gap between blade and table. I think a Scroll saw will be part of my modeling life for some time to come and so, make a good one with great advise is the way to go Thanks Quote Current Build HM Granado CC Past builds HMS Chatham CC, HM Convulsion CC, Duke William German Kit, Fair American LSS, The Wright Flyer MS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted July 2, 2014 Share #9 Posted July 2, 2014 Andy, What I did was make a zero clearance insert and then wax (furniture polish) the saw bed/table. Wood slides on it like it's on ball bearings. I've not tried the lexan but will re-think that. I'm just a bit cheap...er... frugal, at times. WackoWolf 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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