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Posted (edited)

Well,here we go with the first strips of planking.

 

By the way,total cost so far is £12 for the sheet of plywood.Everything else has so far been used up from bits I had left over from previous projects,but I daresay the cost will be going up soon,as I run out of stuff!!

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Edited by Keith B
Posted

Slowly getting there. I'm using 2mm thick planks,which will allow for a good sanding.Hoping to get away with not putting a second layer on,all depends on the finish after it's been sanded and filled,and sanded again.Should be okay seeing as half of it will be coppered and the rest painted.

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Posted

Just one or two small bits of planking to glue in,then the sanding and filling.Then more sanding.... and filling,......and sanding. I've been doing a little bit of sanding as I've been going,so won't be too much to do,I hope!!

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Posted

There will be a lot of sanding ?

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

Posted

And here they are - beautifull hull lines

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

Posted

I haven't decided about the coppering yet. Could buy copper tiles again,or copper sheet and make my own,or just paint it copper I'll have to have a good think about it.Any suggestions/thoughts?

Posted

Keith;  I have found copper tape, with a ponce wheel, works quite well.  They are more fragile, but very easy to replace.  Caldercraft, and other companies, make excellent tiles, but are usually very expensive, and one has to use a lot of CA to affix them.  A roll of copper tape from Model Expo is about $13, and a ponce wheel about $8.  I like the look of photo-etched plates, but could never justify the cost, nor the extra labor of affixing them.

 

In my Humble Opinion..

 

Cheers!

 

~Bob

Posted

Between coopering and painting in cooper ..... COOPERING, no doubt !!!!

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

Posted

Thanks both, I'll look into the copper tape idea.I have used the Caldercraft tiles on the Victory,and they do take a lot of c.a. I found that a contact adhesive worked much better,but you're right Bob,they are expensive!

 Cheers,

Keith.

Posted

I've ordered some rolls of 6mm copper tape and a pounce wheel off e-bay. Unfortunately Model Expo are in the U.S.A. or I would have ordered off them,but the postage was too much. Cornwall model boats stock pounce wheels,but no copper tape!! So good old e-bay to the rescue!!

Lots to do before that lot arrives though.That's the good thing about this hobby,there's always something to try and make or experiment with. Having looked through Bob's build,I have just realised that I've been throwing all my coke cans away! Not any more,that metal will come in very handy!!!

Posted (edited)

That's the pig pen and paint locker fitted.

Pounce wheel arrived today,what a great little tool.Been practising on a coke can while waiting for the copper tape to arrive,hopefully soon!

Just notice that the photo of the paint locker is blurred,sorry about that! Will upload a better one tomorrow.

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Edited by Keith B
Posted

Hi Marc,

I don't think I'm going fast! I do tend to do 2 or 3 things at a time,which helps I suppose.I can't see the point in glueing one thing together and waiting for it to set,so I start on another piece! Mind you,I will be slowing down now,as I have to practise my soldering skills,or lack of them.I've just had to come out of the workshop to cool down after my first attempt at making the pump handle,before I throw the whole thing out of the window!

Posted

Soldering ... nightmare ... until realise you have to listen what is told in soldering tutorials on net.

 

Top of soldering iron ALWAYS clean, sharp and little soldered, soldering wire with proper amount of Pb, use cleaning paste, and practice. And right temperature on iron. When you once succeed to solder something to something, practice two days more to learn to feel material. After that everything is easy ;)

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

Posted

Copper tape arrived this morning,so I've made a jig to make life a little easier.

I glued two 6mm strips onto a base board,6mm apart.(The width of the copper strip)

Then,place copper strip (copper side down) between the two wood strips.

Place a strip of 5mm wood strip on top,to one side so it leaves a small gap for the pounce wheel.

Run pounce wheel along the strip.

And there you have it. Just move the 5mm wood strip to the other side and repeat with pounce wheel.

You can make the jig as long as you like.I made mine at 450mm,just because the base wood was  already that size,and that length is relatively easy to work with.Obviously the smaller lines have to be put on,but that can be done by just marking out the backing tape of the copper strip at,say 15mm intervals,depending on how long you want your tiles,and running over with the pounce wheel.

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