Johnnymike

Yard arm tapering

I am sure this topic has been discussed but after searching unsuccessfully for a while

I decided to be lazy and ask the question anew.

 

I would like to see how you experts taper yard arms. I am still learning and

have had some success but I would like others ideas.

 

JMS 

thibaultron and donrobinson like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I turn all of my yards from square stock on a mini lathe. I use a spindle steady rest for those very thin and fragile yards to keep them from wobbling/breaking.

 

Anything that can't be put in the lathe is done as Jan suggests, by hand with a file, mini block plane, or sanding stick.

mtaylor, thibaultron, Canute and 1 other like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could always do it the way they were done in the real world.  Start with square stock (thereby insuring no bend in the stick), mark the taper and with a "7 - 10 - 7 fan" and cut it down to 8-sided, (then 16 depending on scale), then sand round.

This way you'll actually develop some very useful skills.

Maury

donrobinson, BANYAN, src and 3 others like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

JT here is a rough copy of such a fan someone posted on this site I think (sorry cannot recall who).  These are the proportions by which to reduce square stock to get an octagon (the 10 is the meat that remains).  Simply place the square stock on the fan so that the edges of the stock meet the outer edges of the '7' fan lines, then mark the wood with the other lines. The lines should be ruled with a straight edge back towards the centre to reflect the angle of taper rquired.  For some yards, not direct to the centre but to the point of transition from straight octagonal to taperered round.   These then give you the guide lines to which you reduce the square stock with plane, chisel, file or.... :)

 

Note: the square stock should be reduced to the appropriate thickness before starting, such that the width of the meat [10] ends up wide enough, that after rounding, is the correct diameter of the round - this takes a little calculation.  Always better to err on 'bigger' so that you can reduce; harder to add :)  Once you have the round, even in taper, it is relatively easy to maintain it with further sanding.

 

cheers

 

Pat

post-385-0-92533800-1481325099.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't cringe this made sound crude to all you perfectionists (do not take offense no criticism intended you sometimes have to work with whats at hand))  but having no top end tools,  I used a dremel with a sanding drum, held stock by hand and slowly rotated starting at the middle worked out intermittently checked with a micrometer, I ended up with with some hollows that were easy to sand out with sheet sandpaper it's pretty fast. only had to redo one on hms vic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it depends on the size of the spar you are making. If its above a certain size its probably best, for the sake of accuracy, to start with square stock and, by using cutting tools, get the spar to eight or sixteen sides and taper at that point. With the hard geometric edges you can better judge the proportions and bring a little science into how you taper. BELLOW a certain size the taper can be best accomplished through sanding alone- either with sanding sticks or chucked into a rotary tool of your choice or both. This method is better for smaller stuff since you can remove material SLOWLY and gradually approach the taper you want. Trying to shave off slices with a knife or plane at a smaller scale, you are more likely to mess up by removing too much material in one pass. What size determines the method? I would say it depends on your ability to control the amount of material your plane or knife blade can remove.

thibaultron, Canute, mtaylor and 1 other like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Same as the rest. Drill works for me. Leave about 30-45mm extra on the spar/ yard to slot into the drill.

Once the yard is spun down to the correct Dia, simply cut of the 30-45mm extra.

This saves marking your already spun peice from the drills chuck. Hope thes all help you.

Canute, mtaylor, donrobinson and 1 other like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I shape mine purely by hand and eye, marking the end grain with a black dot the size/diameter I wish the yard needs to finish up. The I mark the position from where the taper starts. Using a good small hand file I file to the end from the start mark carefully rotating the yard on the edge of my work bench until the correct profile is obtained. I have used this technique on all 3 of my models to date now never fails. Just to finish I twist the yard in some fine abrasive to give a good finish thats about 30 in total. No machines used or needed.

 

Norman

mtaylor, Canute and thibaultron like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.