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Everything posted by Chidokan

  1. I have the kit and a lot of the reference books and was hoping that the forecastle would be raised before I started... having waited far too long for that, I will be joining you in making a start!
  2. one method I use for blackening iron sword guards is to apply shoe polish then put over a gas ring. I am lucky enough to work in a forge part time, so can use that for larger objects, but would think the best bet would be to use gun blue as a base and work from that?
  3. I find the best thing I use is the spools for leader material... I store my rigging rope on them. The serrated scissors they supply for cutting deer hair seem to cut better when trimming off ends near blocks. The rest of the tools I wouldnt use, although a cheap vice, not the spring type, is useful for holding small detail parts when doing carvings or similar. Best thing I have is actually a spring grip probe from an oscilloscope... brilliant for getting in to pick up the end of short lengths when they are hidden inside other rigging!
  4. just back from Carlisle and my favourite bookshop.... £40 got me 'plank on frame models Vol 1' by harold Underhill, 'building a working model warship, hms warrior' by William Mowll, and 'AOTS Endeavour'! Bargain!!!
  5. when I have to deal with useless people at work, I always think "yet again you fail to live up to the very low expectation I have of you..." and "its fool proof but not idiot proof."
  6. I fancy building a rope walk.. where did you get the gears from? I certainly would like to see this as it goes along, so keep posting...
  7. Today I worked on repowering a WW2 motor boat that rescued flyers from the english channel... used for SOE operations also , and was at D-day. The three old engines were 550bhp each, so am replacing them with cummins 550 QSB 6.7 litre units, so it should still hit 50 knots. Now for the interesting bit... hull designed by a man called Mitchell at Supermarine, who also made something called a Spitfire, top deck aided and abetted by Laurence (of Arabia ), and the design sent to USA where it was used to make PT boats.... a guy called JF Kennedy had a go in one of these apparently... PT109. Just got some plans so I can work on the engine mounts, and am so tempted to build a model... problem is we have nothing to show what the internals were like, and the top deck varies almost between each boat from what I can see. hull is 10mm mahogany done in a cross ply pattern. The plan is to get it ready for the D-day boat run in 2018, and take some veterans over to France on it.
  8. from my friend in Korea.... Anyways, this is one good website I found: http://xn--v69ass944a3gcpygusa09vqud1t9b.kr/3story/story_01_2.html Also, you have found more useful pictures when using Korean to search on google. Please try this: https://www.google.com.sg/search?q=%EA%B1%B0%EB%B6%81%EC%84%A0&espv=2&biw=1152&bih=592&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwiq-NahqNfRAhVMM48KHQG2BHcQ_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=%EA%B1%B0%EB%B6%81%EC%84%A0+%EB%8F%84%EB%A9%B4 If this does not work, try copying and pasting this into the search bar: 거북선 도면 It translates as “Geobukseon drawing”, Geobukseon is basically the turtleship. from the links, looks like this ship is the equivalent of the mary rose! If you use google chrome, it will translate into english (badly, but you get the drift!) http://www.geojenews.co.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=8300 This has internal shots... I like the hats hanging up! Hope it inspires you to get back to the workbench! http://blog.daum.net/_blog/BlogTypeView.do?blogid=03c63&articleno=13225556&categoryId=559478&regdt=20071109213722
  9. The engine is a Cummins VT8-370-M, built at Columbus engine plant on 28th July,1966. (and yes you can still buy parts for it... )
  10. thanks for engine info, can let you know shortly.... I was thinking of doing 3D models of the engines I make in 1/72, as there is a couple of boats in that scale.... I repowered an old MTB a couple of years back and airfix make the kit, so would like to make it for my desk at work.
  11. just walking past a desk at work today and spotted a turtle ship in a case (will send a pic later) that looks like the kit you got... A chat revealed STX, a Korean shipbuilding customer, helped build either a replica or rebuild ( we didnt know which). It may well be the one in pics on internet. I have a couple of contacts there, so will see if I can get some pics of the build.... however unless you intend to copy the modern one exactly, I dont think you need to fit a Cummins K19 engine, which is what they have done to avoid using the oars! (reminds me of the 'Endeavour' copy at Whitby )
  12. are you making the engine? Reason I ask is that I have worked at Cummins in the marine section for over 30 years and am wondering which one it is!
  13. I am a diesel engineer specialising in building marine engines for Cummins... a couple of fun projects I helped out on are two round the world record holders, ( I actually built an engine for the cable and wireless boat without realising it!) Round Britain boat race is coming up, so am hoping to install a couple of engines into the boat that James May had in Top Gear, and repeat the success we had in the classic section last time... I should really make some models of the boats I fit engines in now I think about it...
  14. hi Klimi, I bought the book and my kit has very little similarity to it for the upper deck, so I am going to copy the book, and also throw away the stern section as it is not even close to the shape in the book! I think the mast holes in the deck are about correct, but I also have a 'spare hole' that does not relate to a mast or hatch...fortunately the deck planking can cover this. The kit guide does not show enough detail, so thanks for the advice about buying the book.
  15. and you can still buy pease pudding.. as per the nursery rhyme.. Pease pudding hot, Pease pudding cold, Pease pudding in the pot - nine days old. Some like it hot, some like it cold, Some like it in the pot - nine days old.
  16. nice boat, far better than the sergal one! I have just put that together and it looks strange... nothing like the book! Do you plan to do the smaller one as well? I was thinking of making masts, sails and oars and storing them on the boats, but then thought they may be stored somewhere else.... anyone know where they keep them on the current replica ship?
  17. hi Klimi, I am just starting the Sergal kit, and got the book today... One thing I spotted is that the wheelhouse is very different in the kit to the book (which is what you have made). Do you think the rudder can move enough with the wheel house from the book, as it seems a little restrictive from the drawings? I thought as you have made it you will be able to see better how well this would work! The kit version gives a wide angle, but that looks too much... Nice work, I hope I can do as well as you!
  18. one thing I found useful was to blacken the scribe lines that indicate degrees etc on the handles...my eyesight is not what it was and this helps a lot. I also made up some jigs for the saw, so I could do multiple plank lengths for decking etc. I dont have a large work area, to get the larger tools in, so a little time fiddling about getting the relevant assembly made up is fine by me... You definitely need a small support board to pin the tool down, I made up one using some cheap angle brackets, its about a foot wide and two feet long and does the job.
  19. Just found this, looks good! I've just bought the Sergal Bounty.... however am banned from building it until I finish the viking ship I am on with.. (shields to paint and its finished, so not long!) I started to look at the overall quality of the kit, just checking I have it all, honest! The bulk is fine, however there are two ply sheets that have the tops of the cutters and other parts laser cut... these are bent and split, so am guessing I will have to replace them. The instructions are irritating, as the languages are split all over the pages, it makes them really hard to follow. I think I will scan them in and then combine all the english bits together. I think I may bash mine a little to get the holds a bit more exposed, like yours above...... the Sergal frames are solid, so will need some cutting out where I want to cut away the hull. I think this will need some thinking through or I could end up with a twisted frame.
  20. I got one of the unimats and find it quite useful for making straight lines for cannonball racks etc. They are a bit of a fiddle to set up, but that is part of the fun. I wish I had got the top of the range CNC controlled version looking back now, but the one I have is useful for the odd times you need it. I rigged up a little jig for cutting planks to length for decking etc. If you do buy one, make sure you get a set with the adjustable tables, which is the most useful part of the system...
  21. I find the oscilloscope probe with the locking hook is useful for getting into awkward places... you can get just the probe section at local electronics shops like Maplin... http://www.dx.com/p/40mhz-oscilloscope-probe-with-x1-x10-switch-max-600v-34221#.Vstpq9AlRlR
  22. The navy models varied in size but definitely worth the trip. hope your knees bend well as for some reason they were about that far off the floor when I visited! You may spot most of the pictures are of french boats sinking british boats...Its a bit like the musee militaire, which is also worth a visit. My favourite placard there was 'despite minor setbacks at Crecy and Agincourt, english border raids were repulsed', with a healthy second place going to how a french battalion ensured a victory at El Alamein. Its interesting to see the other sides take on warfare. The approach to Napoleon is also a bit weird... (they have his coffin where they can keep an eye on it - presumably so he doesnt get out again?) I would have thought there would have been a lot of stuff on display on the grande armee and navy, like uniforms etc, but mostly focused on WW2. I picked up a couple of good books at the musee militaire, so worth popping in...
  23. I wonder if I can prove a link to one of the sailors on the brit side, and claim some of it belongs to me as it should have all been divided up between the capturing crew?
  24. tweezers. I hate them. they either fire the part I want half way into oblivion or dont grip/pick up where I want them to. I got passed a loom a line and yes they are useless...the pins need threading and the lower plate should be steel, then it might work... any tension and the pins just pop out. As an engineer I sometimes have to deal with kilograms per square inch.... don't ask.

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