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Found 4 results

  1. Hello, since I haven't found the Réale de France model kit from Corel in this list yet, I would like to present it here. Regards, Joachim Manufacturer: Corel Model: Réale de France Materials: Various types of wood, such as plywood, ramin, lime, walnut, and various others. as well as castings, gold-plated ornaments, metal strips, etched sheets, various rigging yarns, etc. Scale: 1:60, length 1060mm, width 670mm Price: around 699,00 EUR, sometimes more Provider: many relevant shops Impressions of material and plans: The materials are predominantly shrink-wrapped in plastic films/bags, but not on tension, so that no tension of the materials occurs. Many wooden parts are already prefabricated, but the real work remains with the model builder and he can reveal his quality without restrictions. The materials are very versatile and extensive. Building plans: There are 15 DIN-A1/A2 plans available. All components are shown in their original size and in their position in the model. The construction plans are very detailed and excellently worked out in every way. The accompanying description booklet is available in 4 languages, 18 pages for each language version. In addition to the description of the actual construction, various tips for the construction, the handling of the gold sculptures, suggestions for artificial aging, and much more are given. Evaluation of quality: All in all, the construction kit makes a very high-quality impression. The gold-plated ornaments are well worked out for a model kit. The various types of wood are of good quality, are not frayed and make a good visual impression. For the creation of the dinghy a core is provided, over which the spanners are pulled and planked. However, this dinghy does not correspond exactly to the original. Also missing is the second boat contained in the original plans. The etched brass sheets are very fine, detailed and precisely worked out. All flags are printed on very fine fabric. A fabric appropriate to the model size was also used for the enclosed sails. Apart from the plans, most of the fittings, ornaments, anchors, flags and artillery have also been reproduced historically. Apart from a handful of blocks for example, the usual standard parts were not used. Only the dinghy seems to be a 'standard model'. Valuation with regard to "historical accuracy":To check the "historical correctness" I obtained and compared the plans of the ship from the Naval Museum in Paris. Corel's plans correspond in almost every detail to those of Paris. Only a few details have been slightly modified with regard to model building. Furthermore, I have procured from Wolfram Mondfeld "The galley from the Middle Ages to modern times". This book contains detailed plans of the French réale "La Dracène" from the same period. These plans also largely coincide with those of the Réale de France. In the fuselage shape of the kit there are differences to the Fleur-de-Lis. Its planned record is based on a historical description for a standard galley with a precisely defined procedure. Although it is not possible to say for sure what the Réale de France really looked like in detail, the model makes a good impression. Overall conclusion: It is a construction kit of selected quality. Good materials were predominantly used. Although the construction plans are extremely comprehensive and the description is easy to understand and detailed, the construction kit is by no means recommended for beginners. The variety of materials, the size and the attention to detail require practice and experience in model making in order to produce an appropriate model of the highest quality.
  2. Hi all Wanted to put in a review of Spanish frigate diana This is my second build the first being the starter kit amati adventure beginner kit from modellers central . I found it has great plans with step by step instructions,up to 108 pages and then 3 other huge a3 or larger sail , mast and rigging plans double sided . The other thing i liked is heaps of materials eg timbers. Overall i just think this occre kit is great Thanks all. Ps : this is where I'm at.
  3. In 2010 I started a blog on this first build. The blog continued for perhaps 6 months when model ended up behind cupboard doors next to the Christmas tree decorations and a pile of books on boat building and rigging. Last week the hull found its way back to the building board for final stage of planking. . After three years of abstinence I had to get it all back in my fingers again; wood bending and cutting, doing all the checks before application of glue, getting it right My old MSW account and blog are gone, but I still got the pictures: Purchased by my dad somewhere in the eighties The instruction drawing, the big white area pretty much sums up the Corel planking instructions; must have left my dad with a huge question mark above his head and perhaps explains why it took a next generation to muster the courage to add glue to the various components - with inspiration derived from internet, especially MSW. I suppose Corel must have taken note of the work of Frederick af Chapman. Fredrik Henrik af Chapman http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fredrik_Henrik_af_Chapman the Ketch, no. 3 in Chapmans' Architectura Navalis Mercatoria, published in 1768. The book contained 62 illustrations of ships and smaller vessels, both Swedish and foreign designs. Some of these were Chapman's own designs, but many were also types that he had seen during visits to foreign countries. Everything from large warships to small fishing vessels were represented (Source: wikipedia). Set up of frames Solid Surinam hardwood handle keeping everything in check [ Many planking instructions suggest you should divide the space over the frames evenly according to the number of planks and then taper and hang the planks accordingly,thats what I did with the first layer of planking. Its wrong. With 5 mm planks the planks decide how they run, they are too narrow to allow for spiling, only with wide enough planks (planks which allow for spiling) the planker may devide the space according to his will looks like its made of match sticks But add filler and sand it all down, and youre ok.. with first layer, that is addition of false stems and keel (not included in kit), made from oak Problem: the instructed planking scheme for the second layer does not match the dimensions of the first layer as defined by the frames, I therefore find it necessary to heighten the bull warks therewith altering the the side profile / the run of the gunwale. And commence planking of second layer, I then find this picture on the internet... A revelation: planks do not necessary end at the bow but may turn upward and form "saddlebags" underneath the whales. Saddlebag After completion of the saddlebags (the segments which require dropplanks) I commenced at the keel with the lower concave sections (the sections which require stealers). . I let the first planks envelop the stem The two sections meet at the one plank which connects straight and free from bow to stern Another important find is that all you need for woodbending is a glass of water and a candle Stick the end of the wood in the glass, and let it soak until its wet about 3 cm above the water, then you know its soaked enough...then hold it above the candle and bend it, you will feel the wood give in. Dont overbend it, you cant bend it back. If the wood burns easily it probably means you did not soak long enough. If the wood dries up on the outside while heating use a brush to keep the wood wet on the outside of the bend. Do not only bend the wood but give it the right twist at the same time.. to ensure stress free gluing... for each and every plank.. [to be continued]
  4. Hi, Could you please point out the major differences, maybe some pros and cons of the Santisima Trinidad kits from Occre and DeAgostini? I'm particularly interested in quality of parts and cuts, historical accuracy, planking (single or double), difficulty and your overall score. Thank you very much for taking the time to do this!

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