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Location
Sydney, Australia
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We own a small classic yacht - a gaff sloop - which is excellent for day use & racing also. Cherub gets lots of use.
I enjoy fishing & used to surf a lot. These days I'm a family man but we sail together.
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Some photos showing the hull with outer stem & keel glued on. Also some initial shaping of the stem piece. Interesting how the parallel planks give some optical illusions, as the ones closest to the keel have their rocker upside down. Some photos are almost unusable from this effect. The aft part of the hull & keel are smoothly faired. The front section of the keel meets the hull at a crease rather than a faired shape. You can see this in the hull photo from Vanity, below. At this stage I don't know for sure if I will need to use any filler or not, in the keel/hull area.
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic: Cangarda 1901 by KeithAug - Scale 1:24 - Steam Yacht
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic: Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic: Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Nothing like a wet weekend (& end of the summer racing season) to free up some time. I sanded the keel down to an approximate shape, glued the outer stem on & gave it some initial shaping, & glued the keel on. More pictures later but this shows the way I'm ensuring the keel is plumb. It's a piece of clear acrylic sheet with a line square to the base scribed on to it, then fixed to the building base. Two light strips of timber with masking tape stay the keel, I'll check it in a few hours, & by that time the epoxy will be stiff but not beyond movement, should there be an issue. The following steps will be slowly & carefully fairing these to each other. Then the infill piece for the propeller cutaway. It's possible some filling will be required where the keel meets the hull, but we'll see. thanks for the interest
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic: Cangarda 1901 by KeithAug - Scale 1:24 - Steam Yacht
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic: Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic: Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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I started the outer stem & keel piece, that goes from the deck at the bow around to the keel. I decided to glue laminate it in one piece, partly because - as with the glued planks replicating strip planking - this is more akin to the way the actual yacht was constructed, as a timber / epoxy composite construction. I had some sheets of Sapele from something & even the 1.75mm (maybe 1/16th) thick wasn't happy doing the curve, with heating. I had some 2.5 thick strips of Huon Pine, & they were happy to do it, with a bit of heat from the hot air gun. I'd rather a harder timber, but oil based enamel paint is quite tough. I came across some tiny fine brass nails that I had bought & didn't use on a model, & decided to try using them to ensure the laminating is a close fit to the hull shape. Partly because the timber needs a finished thickness of 5mm, & with 2 @ 2.5mm there wasn't much adjustment possible. Anyway, it looks to have worked well, & hopefully hasn't been glued to the hull... I left about 1mm of nail sticking out, so I can pull them out. It worked nicely: Except for 2 (where a little more oomf was need to hold the timber in), the nail heads are left projecting a little to aid removal: Here's where you can see how well this worked - no gaps! Helped by the general pliability of Huon. thanks
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic: The San Marco mosaic ship c. 1150 by Louie da fly - 1:75
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic: Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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I've started on the keel. The shape is not complex, so it can be modelled pretty easily. For stability & strength I decided to make it from horizontal strips of timber, dowelled with brass. The timber is a nice straight-grained piece of Huon Pine. The keel is not a difficult shape: it fairs with the hull, but essentially it appears to be even from there down to the bottom of the keel. This is the keel side on. The yellow bands will be done in strips of timber. The strips, in plan: The timber pieces cut to shape, plus the 1/8th brass rod: Stacked & trimmed, & sitting on the hull. It doesn't look quite right, but it will. The hull has more sanding to get it down to the right size, I have left that to assist get the fairing with the keel right. thanks all
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Hi Steven, I hope you don't mind my adding to the discussion, but I don't agree that this is an error - if the shrouds were on the leeward side then they won't have a lot of load on them. A helmsman could intentionally sail an angle to de-load a shroud so it can be worked on.
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Hi Steven The weathering you did with the timber decking & elsewhere really looks great, it's very credible.
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Hi John, She looks very good in the photos, but they don't do this model justice... I was at the museum Friday - the Walter Reeks book launch - & dropped over to see if you were in. Saw the model Meteor though, it's exquisite.
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Yes, a lot of fun & what a nice boat. Sort of a large verandah with a paddlewheel. And it floats.
- 40 replies
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- Paddlewheeler
- Ballarat
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Hi Steve Good to hear from you. Yes, I think Cliff had a good eye. I hope your new home is working out well. (south coast..?) Hi Micha, Thank you, & thanks for reading the log. Re your oped-for next build: have you asked the people building them if they will send you lines drawings? They might do it. One more photo, it's the James Craig & the Ranger Cherub, bowsprit to bowsprit....Sydney Harbour a couple of years ago.
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The planking is finished & I've spent a few hours sanding. This planking method (strip planking at scale) was visually messy, so it's very nice to see the hull lines start to become more visible. Although the nature of strip planks (being parallel sided), the planking lines throw the optics of the shape off a bit, as the line of the planks towards the keel don't bear much relation to the hull shape....the planking just follows the ones above with no tapering. The stern photos show the excess hull near the transom - that planking needs to be cut away - as the hull has the sweep down from the upper deck to the height of the transom. Photo below shows that gently curved line of that transition. I'll do a bit more sanding & then start on the keel & outer stem pieces. Also the infill piece that will turn the square cutaway at the stern into the curved propeller cutaway. They are a fat boat..... plus this for comparison: thanks
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Is it possible the ladder was integrated with the stays?
- 409 replies
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