US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale

[_SalD_]

Feel free to ask away Jesse, I'll try my best to help you out and if I can't there are are lot of excellent builders on MSW who will.  

[_SalD_]

To finish up chapter nine I installed the stern decorative carving and quarter badges.  Prior to installing these pieces they were cleaned, primed and painted.  As a guide I used a nice painting tutorial written by ChrisLinden here on MSW. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8417-painting-tutorial-ornaments-cast-metal-parts/?p=249680

 

The pieces were mounted on pill bottle caps using two sided tape which made it easy to maneuver each piece while painting.

 

Primed

 

 

 

Painted

 

 

 

Installed

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GLakie]

Those carvings and quarter galleries dolled her up nicely Sal!! Nice work!! 

[_SalD_]

Thanks George, it's amazing what a coat of paint will do.

[Gahm]

You did a very nice job with those casts! Great painting technique! 

 

Thomas

[jdbradford]

Planking at the counter

IMG_1123.JPG

IMG_1125.JPG

 

Garboard and first two planks in place

IMG_1127.JPG

 

Port side with simulated butt ends of planking on wales to get an idea of how the second layer of wales should look.

IMG_1131.JPG

 

=====================================================

Sal,

I am just getting a look at your build.  I have not built this one...yet

I am working on my planking for the MS Fair American and really like the way your planking looks.  I may have missed it in the thread, but how did you simulate the butts of the planking and the caulking?

 

Thanks,

 

Jeff

[_SalD_]

Thanks Thomas, and I do need to confess that the color scheme for my quarter badges was inspired by your superb carvings of yours, so thank you for that also.

[jdbradford]

Prior to starting my planking I read “Planking the Built-Up Ship Model” by Jim Roberts , “Simple Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners” by Dirk DeBakker and Greg Brooker, and studied many building logs here on MSW.  All these references were very informative, however, and I know this might be a little over kill but for me personally, having more of a visual type learning style, I decided to draw up, as Chuck calls it, a ‘planking-plan-of-attack’.  

 

I started by measuring the gap along each bulkhead between the planking by using a tick strip.  Next I measured the length remaining to be planked along the curve of the bow and the total distance along the stern and counter and finally the distance between each bulkhead.  With these measurements I drew vertical lines representing the centerline of each bulkhead at their measured length and spacing.  The dimension at the mid-ship bulkhead was 2 7/8”, which would require 23 planks @ 1/8” wide to cover the area.  I used this number to divide the length of all the other bulkheads to determine the width that the plank should be at each bulkhead.  Using these dimensions I drew up a plank pattern for the port and starboard sides.

 

PlankingLayout.JPG

 

 

Would it be possible to get a higher resolution image of your planking layout?  It looks great as this is what I am trying to learn how to do at them moment.

 

Thanks,

 

Jeff

[Mirabell61]

Sal,

 

the way you did those stern- and badge decorations is fantastic, I love The stern view it looks great

 

Nils

[_SalD_]

Planking at the counter

IMG_1123.JPG

IMG_1125.JPG

 

Garboard and first two planks in place

IMG_1127.JPG

 

Port side with simulated butt ends of planking on wales to get an idea of how the second layer of wales should look.

IMG_1131.JPG

 

=====================================================

Sal,

I am just getting a look at your build.  I have not built this one...yet

I am working on my planking for the MS Fair American and really like the way your planking looks.  I may have missed it in the thread, but how did you simulate the butts of the planking and the caulking?

 

Thanks,

 

Jeff

 

Hi Jeff, thanks for looking in.  For the simulated butt end joints, after the spacing was determined I very careful scored the plank with a #11 x-acto blade using a small drafting triangle for a straight edge to keep the score mark perpendicular to the planking.  After the plank was scored I used a mechanical pencil with a very sharp point (not too sharp that the point breaks) to darken in the score line, also using the triangle to keep the line straight.  Hope that helps, let me know if you have anymore questions.

[_SalD_]

Sal,

 

the way you did those stern- and badge decorations is fantastic, I love The stern view it looks great

 

Nils

 

Thanks Nils,  what my post doesn't show is that it took four or five attempts to get the painting technique down and another four or five attempts to get the colors right but I think it was worth it in the long run.

[_SalD_]

Would it be possible to get a higher resolution image of your planking layout?  It looks great as this is what I am trying to learn how to do at them moment.

 

Thanks,

 

Jeff

 

I will PM you a copy

[Mirabell61]

Thanks Nils,  what my post doesn't show is that it took four or five attempts to get the painting technique down and another four or five attempts to get the colors right but I think it was worth it in the long run.

 

yes Sal,

 

and I think its just this "trying out"......that after all provides the fun...

 

Nils

[Jimz66]

LOOKS AWESOME Sal. Keep it going. 

[_SalD_]

Thanks Jim, see you at the next meeting.

[_SalD_]

Chapter 10 - Head Rails & Figurehead

 

Prior to removing the laser cut pieces for the head rails I cleaned the char from the outside surfaces with my dremel using an abrasive buff .   I just recently discovered that these buffs work very nicely to remove the char by applying very light pressure.

 

 

After a few failed attempts at trying to carve two grooves into the cheeks and deciding that discretion is the better part of valor, I settled for doing one groove.  The groove was made basically the way Chuck describes in the instructions with the exception that I needed to darken the groove with a pencil.  This was done because the old eyes ain’t what they used to be and I needed a little contrast to help tell how deep the groove was.  After making the four pieces they were glued to the ship.

 

 

Two pieces of basswood were then cut and glued in between the cheeks.  Then things when downhill a bit.  Drilling the hawse holes proved to be a challenge and lets just say ‘they’re done’.  I’m not really happy with them so I may go back and try again.

 

 

I started the top head rail but stopped because I wasn’t sure how it frames into the hull.  Do I attach it to the edge of the cap rail so the rail sits away from the hull planking or do I notch the cap rail and sheer stake so that it's up against the planking, similar to the middle rail?  In the mean time I started painting the figurehead.

 

 

[GLakie]

That scroll-work turned out nice Sal!  Looking great! 

[Gahm]

Sal, you are off to a great start with the head rail! Your scroll work looks great! And it does not really matter whether you have 2 lines or one as long as the overall composition looks right. And yours clearly does so far! In my opinion the head rail is probably the single most difficult part of the whole Syren build. Although I always feel that whatever piece I am currently working on turns out to be the most difficult .

 

Thomas

[_SalD_]

Dirk,

 

About my question.  I just wanted to make sure we are talking about the same piece.  In your picture you show the middle rail which I know you need to notch the cap rail and sheer stake for.  I was wondering if you do the same for the upper head rail too.  It appears from the picture in the instructions that the cap rail is notched a little but on the drawing it does not appear to be.

 

[_SalD_]

That scroll-work turned out nice Sal!  Looking great! 

 

Thanks George

 

.... In my opinion the head rail is probably the single most difficult part of the whole Syren build. Although I always feel that whatever piece I am currently working on turns out to be the most difficult  .

 

Thomas

 

Thanks Thomas, I know what you mean.  I always remember what one of my professors said about solving new problems; First, read the problem, then have a good cry and then set about solving the problem. I'm still a little misty eyed over the head rails.

 

 

And thanks to all who hit the 'likes' button.

[_SalD_]

Sal, sorry sorry sorry, my mistake in reading (damn english skills ) ... I did not notch for the upper rail but it might needed for your (individual) build or chamfer/bevel the upper rail to smooth fit.

 

cheers,

 

Dirk

 

Thanks Dirk, I appreciate the feed back.

[_SalD_]

In order to position the top head rail correctly I needed to install the catheads.  These I made as described in the instruction using the 1/8” square basswood.  

 

Assembling the cathead and cattail.  Pieces held in position with double sided tape (my new best friend). I also pre-drilled all the holes for the eye bolts.  For the cathead stopper pulley I cut a small section of a toothpick, glued it to the cathead first and slowly sanded it down to the required height.  Then I glued the other two pieces as shown in the instructions.

 

Catheads in temporary position.  I added a pin to to the bottom of the cattail for additional support.  I also notched the waterway and cap rail so it would sit closer to the bulwarks.  I have to apologize for the inboard hawse holes, not one of my better efforts.  The difficulty with drilling the holes I found was trying to keep the holes parallel to the keel.

 

 

Painted prior to installing in place.

 

 

Installed catheads and hawse holes cleaned up a bit..      Front view with figurehead (she looks a little scary)

 

 

The shipyard will be closing down for a few weeks as we are going on vacation down to the Sunshine State.  We're doing something a little different this year in that we are flying down and then driving one of Mr. Hertz's cars back to Connecticut.  Planning to stop and spend some time along the way in Savanna, GA and Charleston, SC, so far.

[Jimz66]

They came out great Sal. Keep it going. 

[GLakie]

She looks great Sal! Nice job on those cat heads.  Have a safe and happy trip! 

[_SalD_]

Thanks Jim and George for looking in and the kind words.

[Gahm]

Very nicely done, Sal! I specifically like your second last picture showing cat heads and hawse holes together. 

Have a great vacation!

 

Thomas

[_SalD_]

Very nicely done, Sal! I specifically like your second last picture showing cat heads and hawse holes together. 

Have a great vacation!

 

Thomas

Thanks Thomas, I tried to clean up the hawse holes the best I could.  They don't look too bad now. 

[Pirate Bob]

Sal

 

Great work on your model.  I just ordered the Syren kit last week and am waiting (patiently) for it to arrive (it's on back order).  I will be following your progress and most likely "stealing" some of your ideas as I go on the long road of turning a box full of wood strips and bits of thread and such into a beautiful rendition of this great old shiip.

[_SalD_]

Hello all, got back from vacation last Sunday and haven't gotten the ship yard up and running yet.  I don't wish to bore you all  with vacation photos but for those of you who might like to see them here they are. I'll do an abridged version.

 

Sunset on Siesta Key, FL. 

 

Left Florida and drove to Savannah, GA.  Very interesting old southern city. 

 

Left Savannah and headed for Wilmington, NC., bypassed Charleston for obvious reasons. Had to stop at 'South of the Border' and show my daughter what she had missed flying to Florida for the past 20 years.

 

In Wilmington we visited the U.S.S. North Carolina. First time I was on a battleship, very inspiring.   My wife and daughter, to my surprise, actually enjoyed walking through the ship also.

 

 

From NC we drove up to Delaware just to stay for the night and the next day visited Philadelphia to attend their Tall Ships Festival which featured the L'Hermione which is visiting from France.  There were quite a few other ships, the Eagle, the El Galeon, the Pride of Baltimore II, just to mention a few.  Attached link for entire list of ships    http://tallshipsphiladelphia.com/ships/.  The only downside was that I think the entire population of Philadelphia turned out to see the ships.  The waiting time to get on board the ships was close to an hour so we decided not to wait.

 

L'Hermione                                                                   very long line

 

Eagle                                                                        Pride of Baltimore (got to go on her)

 

El Galeon                                                                               Sagres

 

 

[_SalD_]

Not too much progress, hard to get motivated this time of year.  I worked on installing the upper head rails.  The first thing I did was to carve the groove into the side of the rail.  I thought it would be easier to do prior to tapering the rail.  After the groove was carved I tapered the rail from 1/8” to ~1/16” as described in the instructions.  In order to help determine the correct length of the rail I temporarily pinned the rail in place.  A small hole was drilled through the rail and into the cap rail so I could insert an eye bolt to hold it in place.  With the pin in place I could rotate the rail into position and determine how much I needed to shorten it by.  I would take the piece off the ship to sand it and then pin it back on to recheck the length.  I did this for both sides and when I was happy with how they looked I glued them in place.  When I glued the rail to the cap rail I substituted a smaller pin in place of the eye bolt so it wouldn’t show.   After the final length was established and prior to gluing the rails in place I had to re-taper them so the ends fit on the cheeks.

 

 

Upper head rail pinned in place                                           Checking length

 

 

Final position