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About *Hans*

  • Birthday 10/23/1962

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    Dordrecht, Netherlands

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  1. I drill four small holes on the four corners (about 0,6 - 0,8 mm) - in such a way that the hole is complete inside the outlines of the gun port. Then cut out with a sharp knife and as last thing with a square file make the corners square
  2. We can start a nice discussion about this - as a parallelogram shaped gun port where the turning axle of the hinges are not in the same line simply cannot be opened. Two hinges beside each other need the same axle line to function properly. And if you mount the hinges under a specific angle so there turning lines are the same then the form of the port gives trouble to open. The vertical sides of a gun port were vertical - that's correct, but regarding the horizontal lines: the lower one could follow the deck (but this was surely not always the case), but the upper one was always under a 90ยบ angle with the vertical sides. So a square gun port is very original. Attached a photo of the Vasa (Wasa) which is the excisting proof of how it was done (this is the original ship from 1628 - same time as the Batavia). Due to the back light the form of the gun ports is clearly visible.
  3. Made them with my cell phone, so not the highest quality - sorry. Backside of the shield. These are in fact 2-cent coins - made convex - tinned and then soldered a small brass handle onto it. On the ship itself I have placed poles - with a sharp end sanded to it: And the shield can be put with its handle over this pole: It looks a bit fuzzy due to the glue. Normally it should not be glued of course, but I don't want them to get lost during building etc.
  4. Modelling is a lot of standing for me (I don't like sitting and doing things). Standing in the kitchen, doing some art work: This is going to be the main sail:
  5. To get a free coffee? I'll keep the voucher!
  6. Wow, just walked by your little "museum" and thought by my self - why not go inside to have a look at all the nautical stuff? I liked it!
  7. Nice pics Steve! Somehow familiar to me, although I've never visited her... :-)
  8. Hey Robin, Didn't have a look at your Bireme build until now. Looking good. I made a Bireme as well for my son (ho studied archeology) and than started a scratch trireme in the same scale. This turned out to be a huge thing of about 1 meter length. Picture of how far I am now:
  9. I sanded a sharp tip at the side-end of small piece of oak 3x3 mm (roughly 1 cm length) and glued this pole onto the deck. The shield has a handle on the backside and this fits onto the sharp end of the pole. In this way the shields hang loose on the side, so they could easily be taken of when needed during battle. In my case the shields are glued onto the pole so they stay in place. But mind you: there is no evidence whatsoever that this was done in real. It is just my imagination that this could have been done in this way (and it gives a nice extra to the model).
  10. Beside all the other projects I am doing I just did something on the Trireme as well (again). The shields (60 of them) have been made, painted and given a personal touch. One side of the ship is now done in the way as described earlier in this topic.
  11. Which is in fact the best way to do it. After knotting the first ratline just put the planks on top of it - correct the level when necessary and knot the second ratline. Correct the level again by tapping the knot a bit down or up - white glue over it (you can do this in the end as well) and proceed to the top. Another fact almost no one knows: due to shrinking of the rope the ratlines always had some more length than the space between the shrouds, they always hung a bit loose. So don't knot them as tight as possible - and the hourglass effect will not occur as well. Nowadays, with other qualities of rope it is different of course.
  12. The most simple solutions are often the hardest ones to find...
  13. This is always a nice (and famous) painting:
  14. It is such a simple and easy solution for making the ratlines! (and sorry to say John - I did it in exact the same way as you did - already some years ago for my Batavia ) And you say you are a novice - but seeing your pictures I don't believe you... Regarding the space between the ratlines we've had some discussions here the last years. Was it a step of roughly 30 cm - or 1ft. (and many steps to get up) or was it more onto a step of 50 cm (1,5 ft.) The Dutch were known as a bit scrooge, frugal (well, let's say economical) and bigger steps meant quicker on top, so less time wasted - and less rope! So I go for the 50 cm. If you use a 6 mm plank (how many inches is that?) on a scale of 1 to 72 (which the Batavia kit is) you end up with a distance of 43 mm. Including the knot and correction in level to my opinion you are pretty good in line. If you have a 1:50 model take 8 mm planks, and if you are building at a 1:100 scale a 4 mm plank is the right one.