lionfish
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jchbeiner reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise by Palladio - Scale 1:48, as she may have appeared 1805 -1810
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GrandpaPhil reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bounty by lionfish - Constructo - scale 1:110 - solid hull
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popeye the sailor reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bounty by klimi - 1:60 scale (armed merchant ship)
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PeteB reacted to a post in a topic:
HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
sharpening stones which are best for the price
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
sharpening stones which are best for the price
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John Allen reacted to a post in a topic:
sharpening stones which are best for the price
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hi john, the combo kit and pasted balsa are both used to hone and maintain straight razors, so the tools are very capable of creating very good edges. the pasted balsa with micron grits might be a little far but experimentation would prove usefull
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
sharpening stones which are best for the price
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John Allen reacted to a post in a topic:
sharpening stones which are best for the price
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lionfish reacted to a post in a topic:
HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
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depends on the steel, arkies are great, but you need the right oil to do the job, or the clog and dont cut, they are also a bit slower than most other stones. i use a small pocket hard ark to sharpen fish hooks, file my nails, smooth pen nibs, just a whole bunch of odd jobs. if you wanted to go with a whetstone, norton makes a combo kit that has a 220/1k and a 4k/8k, flattenting stone, and prep stone. for about 150. if you really want a keep edge, get some balsa wood, and micron paste, for after using the stones. but the sharper the edge the more delicate it is, so its a balancing act. i lap all my stones using a piece of granite tile and loose SiC powder. hope this helps
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lionfish reacted to a post in a topic:
HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
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despite my inablity to do any modeling right now, chuck your work serves as a source of inspiration for me. if i can get my HMS bounty built the Cheerful is on my list.
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- syren ship model
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lionfish reacted to a post in a topic:
HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
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lionfish reacted to a post in a topic:
THE 74-GUN SHIP by Jeronimo
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lionfish reacted to a post in a topic:
HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
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lionfish reacted to a post in a topic:
THE 74-GUN SHIP by Jeronimo
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lionfish reacted to a post in a topic:
THE 74-GUN SHIP by Jeronimo
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lionfish reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bounty by klimi - 1:60 scale (armed merchant ship)
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lionfish reacted to a post in a topic:
USF Confederacy by UpstateNY - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
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maturin; "he would pun would pick a pocket"
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one thing that comes to mind is deck conditions, i would imagine that coiled rope on the deck would roll and move, especially if the ship was in heavy seas. hanging would seam logical for busy ships or rough weather, or anything other than at port or a special occasion. then again, its up to our own interpretation
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i think most if not all coppering is done keel to water line, at least on the real ships, ive seen many people start with the stern keel and work towards the bow, next line of plates stern keep to bow and so on.
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i would assume most artists would do exactly that, the recoil rope is almost taught save for the ring that attaches the recoil rope to the bulwark. unless they took all the excess robe and hide it on the other side, plus i would imagine that natural fiber rope has some give. interesting illustration though
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"She has a bluff bow, lovely lines. Shes a fine seabird: weatherly, stiff and fast... very fast, if shes well handled. No, shes not old; shes in her prime."
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im convinced you just invented time travel and a shrink ray, went back in time, shrunk the HMS surprise, and brought it back. then "disassemboled" select parts to put back together to tease us. all kidding aside, seriously amazing work, i wish there was more descriptive words for this but i am at a loss.
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Long Term Paint Storage
lionfish replied to mikiek's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
its by the faucet and sink repair section, http://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-6-in-x-6-in-Rubber-Packing-Sheets-59849/203193498 -
dons an old friend of yours? thats awesome, i use his site all the time. my first airbrush was an aztek, it needs some TLC but im sure would still work great. if your set on that brand, id get the ultra or evolution. they are the base line models and are more than adequate for our job. honestly id go with the ultra, its half the price and will do the same job. you can always upgrade later.
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single action means the button does a single job, meaning the paint flow is set by a screw and the button just runs the air. double action means the button controls paint mixture and air flow. single action is great for beginners, and consistency. double actions are better for experienced people and those who need to change line widths and paint flow on the fly. anyone who uses airbrushes a lot tend to have more than one, i have a single and a double action. the badger 200 old style is a single action, wereas the badger 155 anthem is a double action.
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save your money on the harder-steenbeck, those are marketed to professionals, get a paasche or badger, great brushes for a great price. then use the money you save to get a nice compressor. i will direct you to this site: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/ it helped me with the research and knowledge to get a good airbrush. good luck and feel free to ask any questions, ive been building plastic models for nearly 15 years
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i dont see why you couldnt use one, and airbrush is just for application of paint and other media. i also build many other models so i already had an airbrush on hand, this is what i use http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/ba155aiandki.html plus you need a compressor to run it. although as i see many model ships arent painted very much, and often in hard to reach or complex situations that airbrushes arent too good for unless youre using a very fine detail brush with a hand as steady as a brain surgeon. just my 2cents worth, if your unhappy with traditional brushes try using better quality ones or using sponge brushes.
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Long Term Paint Storage
lionfish replied to mikiek's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
it depends on what kind of mix you have, a mix of pure paint will keep for a while. but its not recommended to return thinned mixtures back into the bottle. you could get some gasket rubber from home depot and a circle cutter to make gaskets for the cap. other than that, reduce the amount of air in the jar and turn them every now and then.
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