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    Exeter, NH, USA
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    archery, model building, astronomy, photography, oil painting, drumming, cooking, family.

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  1. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Mike, The brace rigging for the empennage is distinct enough that there would be no advantage to adding its rigging earlier. Now, maybe you mean control cabling? That might be easier to do prior to running the whole fuselage bracing wire set.... but either way, it was not too difficult to handle with a couple of tweezers. I found the rigging of the ailerons more tricky with the plane, nose down on a jig. In fact, I really didn't like that part of the build at all.... but I suppose there's nothing one can do about it. That's just the way the bird was built. ~john
  2. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Mike, you can find some interesting results by searching google for "wooden model airplane prop". Check these out for example: https://www.hobbylinc.com/rc-airplane-wood-propellers ~john
  3. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Hi Mike, I did most of it. I skipped getting to the back of the instrument panel for all but the most visible piping (airspeed from the pitot tube is very visible, for example). The fuel lines are all visible, so important to get done. It is tedious. A pair of mini pliers and a lot of patience are needed.... but it is worth it. ~john
  4. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Hi Mike, That horizontal former is glued to the pre-cut plywood frame.... just above the cutout (flush with the top of the cutout). That cutout is for the lower wing (metal brace for the main spar) to fit into. ~john
  5. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Hi Mike, No - I didn't use the jig, though I would recommend it. I used the plans and used the time-honored tradition of pinning down the wood to the plans. You absolutely need a completely flat board on which to build. ~john
  6. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Mike, Nice work on the wings and aileron hinges. Recommendation: take some old sewing thread and tie the ailerons to the wing such that they are flat (in the same plane as the wing). This will protect them from damage, and will make running the control rigging a lot easier later on in the build. Have fun with the fuselage! ;-) Best, ~john
  7. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Hi Mike, The instructions for this state: "Create the lower wing dihedral by tapering the bottom ends of the front and rear spars so that when they are rejoined by parts CAW38 and CAW39 they will lie flat within the cast joints and the underside of the outermost ribs(CAW06) will be elevated 25/32" above the work surface." This means that you have to file or sand down the BOTTOM side of the lower wing's spar at the point where it attaches to the metal casting. I used two small wood blocks, each 25/32" high, placed under the last wing rib to get the angle set correctly. When I built the lower wing, my wing sides were not connected. The long wooden spar piece was left in two parts, with the center disconnected. That way, I did not have to saw them apart later. If you built this as one large wing, you will have to separate them into left and right wings using a knife or saw, being careful to cut precisely in the middle of the two spars. Images attached for you. ~john
  8. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    My plans matched. Press on! It'll be fine as long as you are symmetric about the installations. Also, Ken posted some guidance above. ~john
  9. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    I had maybe a meter left. It is tight, especially if you tie individual knots for each turnbuckle. ~john
  10. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Hi Mike, I took the easy way out for the wing bracing wires and did the continuous run. I tightened each length and used a tiny drop of CA on a toothpick to keep their tension. This is not always recommended, as CA gets brittle with age and can cause the threads to snap. You could do the continuous run without glue, then just add a bit of thinned wood glue to the last knot. Visibility into the wing framing is such that this style of running the "wire" will be barley noticed. For the fuselage, I tied individual knots. The wiring is much more openly visible there. ~john
  11. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Mike: The great thing is that you can always slightly file or sand away the varnish where you need to glue. It works. You can also just spray the whole thing over when you are done.... that is one of the reasons I used a matte flat finish varnish. Spaceman Spiff (love the name btw): Yep _ I completely understand your commentary. The scale is not exactly the best to do accurate colors in any way. The green is the actual zinc chromate color that has been found on some example WW1 and (definitely) WWII aircraft parts. I have omitted the firewall, which would hide the interior from view altogether. There is a lot of artistic work to bring out detail rather than to show accuracy. Anyway, all this is noted in my posts for my build (not here on Mike's build log). Trying not to hijack his log here ;-) Best, ~john
  12. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Moving right along, Mike. So, I used a neutral flat varnish, actually a flat polyurethane for all the wood except the prop and the wing braces where I used a stain/poly blend. CA seems to attach itself nicely to the flat poly without any issues. I do recall having to file away some of the finish for one part, but that was about it. When using CA, I was using a gel type that doesn't flow well. ~j
  13. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Hi Mike - I did a lot of sanding, that is really all. I started with a Dremel and got more cautious and moved to rough then fine paper. The rounded leading edge of the prop is upper most when the prop is laid onto a tabletop. SO.... just a lot of thinning out of the blade. ~j
  14. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Yep - I have a hard time seeing which way you carved on your prop. What Carl said is absolutely correct. So.... if you did go backwards with the angle, you can always try again. ~j
  15. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Mike, The good folks at Model Airways will send you a new set of prop parts for you if you want. ~j