Ray

Dead-Eyes and links
 
On dry fitting the 5mm dead eye into the strop it left a gap in the bottom of the strop, and I thought this will be tricky to connect the first link too, so I glued up the gap and made a metal link 13mm long ,to join the dead eye to the link that is pinned to the hull, I was not that pleased with the result but did find that when the dead eye in the strop is pushed into the slot in the channel it closes up the gap in the bottom of the strop,so I fitted the two links that are pinned to the hull, the preventor link and the toe link and then added the metal link, the middle link made from .5mm wire but the tension was not right so I tried joining the links with .5mm black thread which gives a nice tight linkage and with the knot tied in the channel notch it will not be seen when the covering timber goes on. One thing I would have done differently would have been to fit the 3mm dead eyes and links on the mizzen channel before the gun port lids the lids made it a real pain to fit the links and quite a few naughty words were uttered. The photos below show step by step my way of doing the linkage on this kit, I must say that I much preferred the strops and linkage in the Victory kits, also the kit comes with two toe links short but an email to Jotika quickley brought the parts in the post.
 
Linkage positions marked on hull side

 
Preventor and toe link added

 
.5mm thread through strop

 
Knott making middle link tied

 
Middle links ready for trimming

 
Fore mast --Main mast & mizzen linkage completed

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Just one photo to show for this update; the work though in this one photo represents a whole lot of hours to get here.  I decided that since I’d have the ship in odd positions (e.g. the bow into a large cushion on the floor and the stern held between my knees), I’d go ahead and finish the stern before flipping it over to do the coppering, or maybe I was just delaying the tedious coppering a while longer.
 

 
I don’t know about everyone else but the stern has been a challenge for every ship I’ve built.  Somehow the clever plans from the designer don’t seem to quite work out exactly as drawn for me.  I’ve had to do a few modifications, design alterations and planning of my own to make the ship come together back here at the stern.  Not a lot, but enough to make it interesting.  As careful as I build the frames and keel and align gun port patterns, its here even a millimeter or two off shows up.  I’m making more of it than it is, but for those taking any guidance from this log I’ll just say this: Patience, thinking it through, and not worrying if the designer’s plans don’t quite make sense or work out as drawn, is required on your part. Because you can make your own adjustments to make it work and be just fine. 
 
First up in the “it’s my model I’ll do what I want” was following my own whimsy on the painting, I like Caldercraft’s French Blue so aside from yellow ochre it’s the primary color.  I’m sure there is much more detail I could have done to painting this; flesh tones, more colors, etc.  But frankly at some point I’ve had enough of 18/0 brushwork plus as Captain I decided the crew had better things to do that make my stern work too “fancy.” (Really though, I just used up my eyeball allotment for close-up work.)
 
I may have said this before, but I love Caldercraft paints.  I use an airbrush for the brass etchings but brush paint everything else, the black covers in one coat (though I always use two) and the yellow ochre, red ochre, French Blue or matt white never require more than two coats.  Plus I think the red and yellow ochre are so spot-on for the right shade for my tastes, and finally it covers so easily for the teeny tiny touch up work I invariably have to do.  I like it so much I order it from the UK since I haven’t found a US source for it.
 
As for ignoring the plans:  They call for using the cast metal, below the columns, below the name plate, and even attached to the top of the handrails, that looked so heavy and so out of scale to me I ignored it choosing to put 1x1mm trim below the columns, left over side-hull molding below the nameplate, and nothing on the hand rails, I like it much better than the cast metal, which also would have shown a seam had I used it since the provided pieces aren’t long enough.
 
I’m going to finish off the side galley’s next and then I’ll really be out of things to do before the coppering phase.  I realize I set myself up for possibly damaging some of this work while in the ship is upside down, but I was more concerned about damaging the copper.  My objective (we’ll see) is to put the model on its final stand once the coppering is done and finish the ship from there. 
 
So there you have it…

Hi Glen I am another one to add to your 2or3 followers, I followed your Pegasus log and used it as a reference when building my Pegasus. Great work on this build I look forward to the updates, your photos are as always excellent.

Hi I found a marker pen which did not bleed and have attached a couple of photos I obtained it from www.tigerpens.co.uk they are in wicford Essex.
 


no bleeding on my planking

Hello everyone
 
Well Christmas has come and gone and as promised I am starting a build log. One thing to notice straight off is that I have named the ship Enterprise with an 'S' rather than 'Z' which is the spelling on the kit. Not a big deal but something I want to do.
Now as stated in the title this is a card model. I have never done anything like this before so with the help of all you good people here I hope I can do her justice.
 
Here are 2 photos of the kit.
 

 

It's always good to hear from you, Ray
Regarding the channels, it is wise to take the necessary precautions. Excellent work.
Starting from the channelplates, for uniformity sake, I let them go more perpendicular downwards as coming from the mizzen mast the channel assembly became a bit narrow due to the presence of the gunport lids.
 
And of course :  good health and lot of shipbuilding fun for 2014.
 

Nice shot of the deck guns Ray, and of you with the QM2  in the background. As a young boy I remember seeing the original pass the IoW on its way to Southampton, impressive, never forgotton that view.
 
Best wishes for 2014.
 
B.E.

Really good news.  I hear there's still over 200,000 without power in US/Canada.  Something to tell the grandkids about!

Hi Guys thanks for the comments and Best Wishes to all for 2014
 
I am working away, on fitting the dead eyes into the strops and the links onto the hull, and the covers over the chain plate edges, it is quite a long job and not the most enjoyable so far, but I am about half way through, and will give a full update when both side are done, with my way of doing this part of the build and solutions to the problems I came across.

Just a small update not much progress as we before Xmas went on holiday, great cruise on the Queen Mary 2 what a superb ship, a 5 star floating hotel, so as it is a ship I have added a photo, and Xmas took over as well.
 

 
I have made a start on adding the dead eyes and links but first the alignment.
 
 
Dead-eye link alignment
 
 
When I was looking into positioning the channels, making sure they did not allow the links from the dead-eyes to the hull interfere with the gun ports, I also looked at the path from the mast the stays took through the dead-eye links to the hull fixing point. I wanted to get that path straight, so I made a jig using an old length of carbon rod  that fitted into all three mast holes and marked off the point where all the stays would come from on the rod with tape, and then ran a length of  rigging cord from the stays starting point, through the notch in the channel, to the termination point of the link on the hull (as shown in the photos)
 
so when the dead-eyes and when links are fitted they will flow in the right line from the mast.
 

 

Just a small update not much progress as we before Xmas went on holiday, great cruise on the Queen Mary 2 what a superb ship, a 5 star floating hotel, so as it is a ship I have added a photo, and Xmas took over as well.
 

 
I have made a start on adding the dead eyes and links but first the alignment.
 
 
Dead-eye link alignment
 
 
When I was looking into positioning the channels, making sure they did not allow the links from the dead-eyes to the hull interfere with the gun ports, I also looked at the path from the mast the stays took through the dead-eye links to the hull fixing point. I wanted to get that path straight, so I made a jig using an old length of carbon rod  that fitted into all three mast holes and marked off the point where all the stays would come from on the rod with tape, and then ran a length of  rigging cord from the stays starting point, through the notch in the channel, to the termination point of the link on the hull (as shown in the photos)
 
so when the dead-eyes and when links are fitted they will flow in the right line from the mast.
 

 

Hi Guys
 
 Christian 
 Thanks, I have had a look at the lining boards and I think you are right, they are probably the wrong way round, so I have removed them reworked them and refitted.
 

 
  Bill
To get the cannons to move up and down, when assembling them I glued the trunnion in the barrel and drilled down into the carriage and ten pinned the cap-square onto the carriage dry which allows the barrel to still move up and down. when I fitted the cannons to the deck I used very thick cyno and also rubbed the finished cannons on sand paper to give a small flat on the bottom of the wheels, to give a better contact-glueing area, plus I glued where the cannons touch on the inner bulwarks the last thing you want is one coming loose when the fore or quarter deck is on.
 
 
Mobbsie
The brackets under the mizzen channel are made from the brass/ sprue no problem to make, you would think that the price these kits are right number of parts would be included.
 
A carriage with holes for the trunnion 

 
A cannon with trunninon and you can just see the sanded flats on the bottoms of the wheels

 

 
 

Just a small update not much progress as we before Xmas went on holiday, great cruise on the Queen Mary 2 what a superb ship, a 5 star floating hotel, so as it is a ship I have added a photo, and Xmas took over as well.
 

 
I have made a start on adding the dead eyes and links but first the alignment.
 
 
Dead-eye link alignment
 
 
When I was looking into positioning the channels, making sure they did not allow the links from the dead-eyes to the hull interfere with the gun ports, I also looked at the path from the mast the stays took through the dead-eye links to the hull fixing point. I wanted to get that path straight, so I made a jig using an old length of carbon rod  that fitted into all three mast holes and marked off the point where all the stays would come from on the rod with tape, and then ran a length of  rigging cord from the stays starting point, through the notch in the channel, to the termination point of the link on the hull (as shown in the photos)
 
so when the dead-eyes and when links are fitted they will flow in the right line from the mast.
 

 

The channels, gun port lids, plus the oar ports and ventilation ports and the eye bolts have all now been fitted, plus the channel support brackets and the anchor lining boards I found the best way to work on her, was keel up, it gives much better access to the under sides of the channels, this would not be such a good idea if the deck fittings have been added.
 
One problem I found was that parts no 258 the channel support brackets there are only 22 supplied, and the plans shows 26 and if there are ones behind the anchors you need 28 I will get around this by making the extras from the brass strip around the etched parts.
 
This might be the last update for a bit as we are off on the QM2 for a holiday and Xmas is coming.
 
Working upside down

 

 
support brackets

 

 

 
All the parts fitted to both sides
 

 

 

 

Just a small update not much progress as we before Xmas went on holiday, great cruise on the Queen Mary 2 what a superb ship, a 5 star floating hotel, so as it is a ship I have added a photo, and Xmas took over as well.
 

 
I have made a start on adding the dead eyes and links but first the alignment.
 
 
Dead-eye link alignment
 
 
When I was looking into positioning the channels, making sure they did not allow the links from the dead-eyes to the hull interfere with the gun ports, I also looked at the path from the mast the stays took through the dead-eye links to the hull fixing point. I wanted to get that path straight, so I made a jig using an old length of carbon rod  that fitted into all three mast holes and marked off the point where all the stays would come from on the rod with tape, and then ran a length of  rigging cord from the stays starting point, through the notch in the channel, to the termination point of the link on the hull (as shown in the photos)
 
so when the dead-eyes and when links are fitted they will flow in the right line from the mast.
 

 

Build Update:
 
Completed all masts, bowsprit, yards.  
 
Couple of things I deviated from plans:  Drawing shows boarding pikes going through both mast rings.  I brought the lower one down, so pike bases would rest on ring bottom.  
Some of the smaller yards said for center to be 16 parts instead of the usual 8 parts (with or without battens).  I just left these rounded.  This scale don't think would have shown.  I also left top gallant yards rounded for same reasons.
 
Next up all the blocks and such to be added to these pieces.
 
Everyone:  Wishing all the best upcoming year yet.  Happy New Year and hoping Santa brought everything you wanted.
 
Happy modeling,
Len

Just a small update not much progress as we before Xmas went on holiday, great cruise on the Queen Mary 2 what a superb ship, a 5 star floating hotel, so as it is a ship I have added a photo, and Xmas took over as well.
 

 
I have made a start on adding the dead eyes and links but first the alignment.
 
 
Dead-eye link alignment
 
 
When I was looking into positioning the channels, making sure they did not allow the links from the dead-eyes to the hull interfere with the gun ports, I also looked at the path from the mast the stays took through the dead-eye links to the hull fixing point. I wanted to get that path straight, so I made a jig using an old length of carbon rod  that fitted into all three mast holes and marked off the point where all the stays would come from on the rod with tape, and then ran a length of  rigging cord from the stays starting point, through the notch in the channel, to the termination point of the link on the hull (as shown in the photos)
 
so when the dead-eyes and when links are fitted they will flow in the right line from the mast.
 

 

Hi Guys
 
 Christian 
 Thanks, I have had a look at the lining boards and I think you are right, they are probably the wrong way round, so I have removed them reworked them and refitted.
 

 
  Bill
To get the cannons to move up and down, when assembling them I glued the trunnion in the barrel and drilled down into the carriage and ten pinned the cap-square onto the carriage dry which allows the barrel to still move up and down. when I fitted the cannons to the deck I used very thick cyno and also rubbed the finished cannons on sand paper to give a small flat on the bottom of the wheels, to give a better contact-glueing area, plus I glued where the cannons touch on the inner bulwarks the last thing you want is one coming loose when the fore or quarter deck is on.
 
 
Mobbsie
The brackets under the mizzen channel are made from the brass/ sprue no problem to make, you would think that the price these kits are right number of parts would be included.
 
A carriage with holes for the trunnion 

 
A cannon with trunninon and you can just see the sanded flats on the bottoms of the wheels

 

 
 

Just a small update not much progress as we before Xmas went on holiday, great cruise on the Queen Mary 2 what a superb ship, a 5 star floating hotel, so as it is a ship I have added a photo, and Xmas took over as well.
 

 
I have made a start on adding the dead eyes and links but first the alignment.
 
 
Dead-eye link alignment
 
 
When I was looking into positioning the channels, making sure they did not allow the links from the dead-eyes to the hull interfere with the gun ports, I also looked at the path from the mast the stays took through the dead-eye links to the hull fixing point. I wanted to get that path straight, so I made a jig using an old length of carbon rod  that fitted into all three mast holes and marked off the point where all the stays would come from on the rod with tape, and then ran a length of  rigging cord from the stays starting point, through the notch in the channel, to the termination point of the link on the hull (as shown in the photos)
 
so when the dead-eyes and when links are fitted they will flow in the right line from the mast.
 

 

Just a small update not much progress as we before Xmas went on holiday, great cruise on the Queen Mary 2 what a superb ship, a 5 star floating hotel, so as it is a ship I have added a photo, and Xmas took over as well.
 

 
I have made a start on adding the dead eyes and links but first the alignment.
 
 
Dead-eye link alignment
 
 
When I was looking into positioning the channels, making sure they did not allow the links from the dead-eyes to the hull interfere with the gun ports, I also looked at the path from the mast the stays took through the dead-eye links to the hull fixing point. I wanted to get that path straight, so I made a jig using an old length of carbon rod  that fitted into all three mast holes and marked off the point where all the stays would come from on the rod with tape, and then ran a length of  rigging cord from the stays starting point, through the notch in the channel, to the termination point of the link on the hull (as shown in the photos)
 
so when the dead-eyes and when links are fitted they will flow in the right line from the mast.
 

 

Hi Guys
 
 Christian 
 Thanks, I have had a look at the lining boards and I think you are right, they are probably the wrong way round, so I have removed them reworked them and refitted.
 

 
  Bill
To get the cannons to move up and down, when assembling them I glued the trunnion in the barrel and drilled down into the carriage and ten pinned the cap-square onto the carriage dry which allows the barrel to still move up and down. when I fitted the cannons to the deck I used very thick cyno and also rubbed the finished cannons on sand paper to give a small flat on the bottom of the wheels, to give a better contact-glueing area, plus I glued where the cannons touch on the inner bulwarks the last thing you want is one coming loose when the fore or quarter deck is on.
 
 
Mobbsie
The brackets under the mizzen channel are made from the brass/ sprue no problem to make, you would think that the price these kits are right number of parts would be included.
 
A carriage with holes for the trunnion 

 
A cannon with trunninon and you can just see the sanded flats on the bottoms of the wheels

 

 
 

Having purchased the Pontos Detail Up Set without Deck for the 1:200 Trumpeter MISSOURI last week - I received it today - WOW!!! There is SO MUCH to this set.

First - the machined parts are bagged separately (gun barrels, bitts, mast parts, antenna, etc.) and the 16" barrels are really so much better than the Trumpeter Upgrade that Trumpy should remove that set from the market - it ain't worth a crap in comparison. All the barrels were included as stated in the instructions. (Other modelers have stated that they did not receive the correct numbers of 20mm/40mm barrels).

There is a separate bag of resin cast parts - bloomers for the 16" and 5"/38 guns and other parts. I'll have to compare these to the kit supplied bloomers and use whichever is more realistic. They are both comparable, I think.

Then there are the various sheets of brass etched parts - more, much more than I will be using on my build (67-69 NEW JERSEY). I guess the more unusual aspect of this set is the very nice colored instruction sheets (7 sheets - doubled sided) that would make an Egyptian hieroglyphics researcher jump with joy . I guess that since hiring an English translator to actually come up with Printed Instructions (to accompany the photos) is out of the question, this is the next best thing.

OK, criticism aside, the parts themselves, seem to be very well etched and detailed. I will, however, compare them with the PE included in the kit and use the better of the two. In some fashion, I don't see at this point why Pontos chose to redo everything that Trumpeter included in the kit, but I'll go through this with a fine tooth comb once I get back to my shop in early January. I will note one other item - the waterways - while this set does include them, they are not what I would consider as totally correct. They are one dimensional and to my way of looking at this detail they should be at LEAST a brass angle with its short leg being inside as the very edge butting up to the teak decking. I may have to explore this a bit more before I make a yea or nay on it.

One thing I do like about this set is the rung hole patterns for the correct placement of hand rungs on the stern of the ship as well as elsewhere on the superstructure. I'm not sure if they include enough to put them in the proper locations at the stern as were on NJ in the late '60s, but I'm sure there's a workaround if not.

So, my initial assessment is that this Detail Up Set is probably a big plus for the model - whether it's worth the retail price may be up to the modeler to decide.

Here is a picture of the front fascia finally painted and fixed.
I diluted the Caldercraft french blue with a little bit of white and I used the brush and not the aerograph.

 
I take the opportunity to wish a merry Christmas to all the friends reading this post!
Pierre

This is my progress so far on Academy's HMS Warspite special edition.  It comes with extra PE and gun barrels. I also bought extra PE oelikons and pomp pomp guns.  he oelikon body proved too delicate for me, so I used the shields and bases and the plastic gun from the kit.

Hi Mobbsie  Great work on the rigging.