thibaultron

If you can provide a picture, so we can better see what is going on.

Model Railroaders swear on phosphor bronze over brass wire, It bends without anealing, and is not brittle like brass wire can be. It is used for handrails and grab irons. I have no idea if it can be blackened, but it does take paint well.

Alice would love this forum, more Rabbit Holes than you can shake a stick at!

Yaa!!!

Could you post a link to his site, a Google search has far to many other Seahorse references.

Thanks, I'll contact you when I get paid this month.

How much is one of your Sea of Galilee kits?

Chris, at least with a broken leg, you can get a head start on escaping your wife!

You can sand the back of the paper, to make it thinner. Model Railroaders do it all the time, to create posters and signs on the side of buildings.

I 'll be watching. Too bad about the plans.

Maybe it depended on which side he was able to take the lines off of.

You might want to add an additional dimension, to one end of the belt, from the CL.

Your welcome.

I tried to use sharpies to darken the edge of the planks for my canon diorama, wrong! The day after I glued the planks down with Elmers, the sharpie ink had run all over the place! I guess long term exposure to water made the ink, not so permanent.

Check out this guy's site. He models cars and Gundums, and has videos on all types of modeling paint reviews. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_66OBQNO8jXkHjlxnnxT-A

The glass sheet I originally had the drawing taped to is a thick (~10"X 3 foot) plate glass shelf, I found at a thrift store. I wish I'd had the money to buy the other ten or so they had!

I really like the added colors! Great job!

Part 004 Got a little accomplished today. I took the weights off the frame sheet, and the shims had glued down nicely. To prevent the frame pieces from sticking to the shims and frame sheet, I was going to used wax paper, but decided that it was both too thick, and opaque, for the job. Instead I used Scotch tape. First I put a long piece the length of each shim, then cut carefully around the bottom of the shims, pushing the tape end down onto the paper, covering the area that the chucks will sit down on. Then I covered the rest of the bottom of the frame area, leaving a good length sticking up on the ends. I then cut across where the bottom tape crossed over the pieces left from covering the shims. Then, I pulled the cut ends off, leaving only a short area where the taped was double thickness. I noticed that the sheet was not completely flat near the top, so I placed a weight across that area. The parts numbering was a bit confusing, at first, until I examined the parts sheets. 5F-6B4- For instance translates as, Parts Sheet 5F part 6B-4, as shown in the parts diagrams in the book. This picture also shows one of the reasons I scanned the instructions. As I find and remove the parts, I highlight them. As I progress, this will make finding the parts easier, by process of elimination. It will also, hopefully prevent me from ending up with parts left over, when I finish! I still have to cut out the rounded areas left when the parts were CNC routed, so I’ve only cut out the three parts highlighted. I have to figure out how to mount my lighted magnifier lamp “eyes” to the new work bench, as I had to leave off the built in vise at the right hand end, now that the spray booth sits there. The workbench top is too thick, to mount the factory “C” clamp. I’m using a second compartmented box, like the one I put the small parts in , to store the frame pieces, while I’m assembling them, or when I finish for the day. After some consideration I decided that I needed to be able to pin the frame sections in place while the glue dries, so I need to move the frame drawing from the glass plate to a wood base. I did not have any wood that was flat enough for my satisfaction, so I needed to buy another piece. The best type of wood to insure flatness, is butcher block types. I went to Home Depot, and found a 17.5”X 1” thick disk butcher block piece. Even then most of them were far from flat. I went through them and only found three of a dozen or so, that were close to flat. I selected the one that was the flattest, and bought that one. It is still a little bowed, but very close to dead flat, and close enough for this application. So I transferred the frame drawing from the glass to the disk. I also bought a short MDF shelf, that I will cut into sections, and glue sandpaper to. This will give me nice flat surfaces to sand “stuff” on.

How did you blend the brick at the inside corner, by the back door? Did you cut the plaster walls at 45 degrees, or use another method?

It is John's method, I just converted it to a PDF.

The tape adds little support underneath so a strip can still be pulled down and rip the tape. Others may have better reasons.

I would say the extended rip fence, the micrometer stop, zero clearance inserts, and miter gauge extension, as the minimum. Some blades of different tooth counts, are a definite.

If there is no hole, use a Dremel, or similar, with cutoff disks, and attack the collet stub, until there is a hole.

Here I've converted it to PDF, for those who don't have MS Word. The super guide To Serving Blocks.pdf