thibaultron

Welcome!

Welcome! The Model Shipways three pack would be a good start. The older Midwest kits are also good starter projects. Bluejacket also has some beginner level kits. Model Shipways will replace parts you damage.

Yes, but the resins are very toxic, as in you should only use gloves, safety glasses, and a mask, when handling the uncured resin. After the print is cured, you can then handle it unprotected.

I'm looking at the mono also. Be careful if you have pets or children around, the resins are toxic. If you watch the "What's Neat This Week" #158 podcast with Ken Patterson (on YouTube), one of the members, who made a 3D printed HO scale locomotive, talks about the resin he uses to make the print usable in an environment where toughness is involved. Most of the resins are too brittle for general handling. He 3D printed the drive gears too.

The outside of kits like that were printed paper that you glued to the block.

One man's trash, is another man's treasure! They look great!

The plane has water running off the float, so I'd say taking off from the swell.

If you want to, you can get free replacement from Model Expo. Your new parts look great though!

As a side note, the scar on the characters face, was real. The actor got when he was beaten by the guards in a Concentration Camp!

Welcome!

Welcome!

How did General Burkhalter ever fit in one of these?

Tell everyone you super detailed it, including Torpedo Worm damage!😉

What about putting foam blocks between the formers? It would be easy to then sand in both the deck shear and hull sides. No more starving cows!

How about a tutorial on how you make the seas for your diaroma?

Do a search on YouTube for Barbatos Rex. He has multiple videos on using all type of paints with an airbrush, including artist paints, as well as a video on just the type of airbrush you have.

Wear plastic/vinyl/etc. gloves while washing, and handling the parts, until they are painted. Oil left by your fingers will affect the adhesion of the paint to the parts.

Welcome to the forum!!!

The instructions should be available on their site. Go to the listing for the model, and select the instructions tab.

PART 19 This will only be a quick update. I printed out the sails and glued thread to the edges (as it turned out very stiff thread from another old boat kit), and temporarily installed them on the model to see how they looked. They turned out to look right to my eyes, at least. They are not tied all that well, but well enough for the test. Between the stiff paper, the stiff thread, and only having the yards tied in place, it was a major chore to get them on. I didn’t want to tie anything on too tightly either, as it all has to come off again. The fore sail is tilted a bit too far forward, as I didn't have anything convenient to tie a thread to, but looks good when I hold it in position by hand. To be continued.

I'm in!

PART 18 Next up are the sails. The kit supplied sails are Vacuum Formed ones, and are quite poor. Many of the sail edges sort of fade into the surrounding plastic with no defined edge to work with. Also the panels are different widths on each one. Not very prototypical! Also they are setup to represent a boat sailing directly downwind. While nice, I want to show the unique setup of this boat where one or the other of the two main sails is preset against a mast when sailing broadside to the wind (explained further below). Pictures of the kit supplied sails. The Main Sail The Fore Sail And finally the Jib. This one, at least, has good edges! The Sinagot book I have has several diagrams of boats from various angles, but only one where the boat has a bow sprit. The picture below is a that diagram with the sails highlighted, and a few measurements shown. The Sinagots did not seem to have bowsprits before about 1920. I guess they were too much trouble when trying to do commercial fishing. After 1920 they started to be used for recreational pursuits also. As the kit has a sprit, I’ll use this diagram as a guide. Some of the things shown here, but not in the kit instructions are: The fore part of the Main and Fore Sails are laced to a line that also pulls the fore tip of the associated spar down to create the slant on that spare. This implies that this line is fairly well and permanently attached once the sails are set. It would cause all sorts of problems to switch the attachment to another spot, unless you either lower the sail, or like getting hit in the head when the upper tip of the spar falls. Hint, sailors really do not like to lower sails in the middle of a voyage, unless weather conditions dictate. The fore section of the main and fore sails is at, close enough for my use, 90 degrees to the foot of the sail. The rake of the masts is about equal, The masts on the model are also raked at the same angle. The slant angle of the spares is close to each other. The jib is on the small side as compared to current practice, on more modern designs. As noted in an earlier post, the main and fore sails are semi-permanently set on opposite sides of the masts. You could set both on the same side, but if set in the traditional manner, you would have to lower the one sail, spin the hoist hook arraignment to the other side of the mast, then raise the sail. Not something you would normally do once you had started to sail, at least for something as simple as tacking. (You never take any longer to tack than as you have to, as you have to complete the maneuver before you run out of momentum and steerage). As you can see in the picture below, they were quite content to put up with one or the other sail rubbing against the mast on a broad reach. In the picture, the fore sail is pressed against the mast. Even on present boats the sails are modestly sized (as compared to the ones in the kit, as will be explained below.) There is no dedicated fore stay. The jib halyard serves this purpose. There are no shrouds. Except for the kit box art, I could find no other evidence of a jib traveler. Though not shown in this diagram, almost all of the other diagrams as well as actual color photographs I have found, show that the sails were almost all red, with occasional patches made from standard modern white sail cloth. The back bottom corner of the Fore Sail falls just at or behind the rear of the main mast. Next I took many measurements from the actual model, and superimposed them on this diagram. The Fore and Main sails, as shown in the diagram, are in red. The kit sails, as close as I can measure them, are shown in blue. The kit sails are shown in blue, as are the kit spars. The kit masts and bowsprit are shown in green and blue. The two fore masts are in the same spot, but the kit main mast is set further back. As you can see the kit sails and main spar, are too large/long for this type of boat. If Ferrari had built a Sinagot, it might have had this much sail area! While the kit main spar is in reality not that much longer than the one in the diagram, with the main mast set further back, it extends well past where it should in relation to the stern. There is almost no room for the main sheet blocks between the corner of sail and the traveler bar, which extends in line with the stern post. So I will be designing the new silkspan sails to a more reasonable size. The first step is to fix the joint between the fore edge/ spar tip downhaul. The diagram indicated that for both sails, this is ~.2” in front of the respective mast where it meets the deck shear. This is shown by the heavy vertical green lines. The tip of the kit main spar intersects, so that is OK. The kit fore spar, though, sits too far forward. The diagram and kit both show about ½” spacing between the main and fore spar tips, so I’ll use that as a standard. Next I repositioned the fore spar. Then shortened it to meet the ½” tip to tip standard. The blue line near the end of the spar marks were the sail attaches. This gives a new spar length (lashing point to lashing point), of 2.859” I moved the position of the main sheet blocks to the position it would be when the sail is pulled to the midline. This would be at the bottom of the traveler. If you tried to set the blocks at the top, they would immediately fall over to one side, and the sail would fall off position. I then measured the length of the block set in the diagram (1/2”) and set this as the back corner of the sail. Then I extended the back edge of the diagram sail until it met this point, keeping the new edge parallel to the old. This set the new main spar aft lashing point. I shortened the spar to match this. This gave a new main spar length, lashing to lashing, of 2.965”. Now, for practical reasons, I’ll make the fore spar 2.875” (2 7/8”) and the main 3”, lashing point to lashing point. After adding a bit of thickness to the spars, I drew in the new sail layout, with scale 21” panel lines. Here is the layout of the sails, per all the above. Here it is with matching thickness lines, and all in one color. Next, I’ll print these, cut them out and trial fit them to the model. If it all looks good, I’ll refine the sail drawings, and add tabs and reef points.

Very nice model!

For the Bridge windows, perhaps you could glue strips for the mullons to clear plastic, and use the clear part as a structural part of the superstructure.

"Well, in my day Sonny, we had to walk uphill at work, Both ways!"