thibaultron

As long As it goes on with a lot of build up it will work well.

CA glue or epoxy to attach the wood and metal parts to the resin. Primer is needed for the resin and metal, if using acrylic paint. As to wood sealer, someone else will have to chime in.

Soak the hull in IPA for a while, this generally will soften and remove most paints.

Might I suggest, if the trusses are going to line up with the vertical studs, widening the bottom of the truss and running it down 3" or so and screwing it ti the stud. You could also run a straight strap across the side of the stud, and the side of the truss, instead of screwing through the edge of the plywood. This would solidly tie them together, and lock them from allowing the base to spread. Not being famillar with UK weather, I don't know if you have to deal with snow loads or not.

For the intermediate trusses, are you going to build actual trusses, or just place rafters? If just individual rafters, it would be much quicker to just measure and cut them in place. Cut a board a little long, drop it in place above the wall and center ridge beam, then run lines onto the board with a straight edge. This will also take into account any warpage in the walls. This should take a fraction of the time to design the rafters.

Try Vallejo or Tamiya acrylic paints. The tube stuff is craft paint, with a much larger "grain" size than the true model paints. With acrylics you need to prime the plastic, before the color coats go on. You also need to wash the pieces in soapy water, rinse, and then use gloves until the painting is complete. The oils from your fingers can cause adhesion problems with the water based paints. Vallejo sells two types of paint, Model Color (for brush painting) and Model Air (for airbrushing). The Model Air is already thinned for airbrushing, though you still may have to add thinner. It depends on temperature, humidity, and airbrush type and air pressure. Acrylics dry much faster then the old style enamels, so you have to work a little faster with the airbrush. YouTube has many airbrushing videos, that can help you if you want to use one. Vallejo's Primers don't sand well. I use Stynylrez primers from Badger. Their Red Brown is perfect as the red anti-foul paint color, without having to use an additional color coat. Note that I bought both the Model Color and Model Air Hull Reds, before I found the Stynylrez primers, and they are a slightly different shade of red. I bought them several years ago, so they may have corrected this. The Stynylrez primers are made for styrene, vinyl, and resin, I don't know how well they work on metals. For wood, no primer is needed. Here are a couple of links that are helpful: The Barbatos Rex YouTube Channel And an Interview with the Owner of Badger Airbrush Company, which is very informative. Note that in this video, he says that all the manufactures buy their airbrush compressors from the same factories in China, and that, unless you want the Brand Name Tag, buy the cheaper Chinese brands.

My heating system has a self regulating mobile heating unit system! The colder the room gets the more mobile units move to your location.

Mine has been sitting in the New York USPS import station for the last 10 days! Hurry up and send it to me NY!

For fine detail, you need a resin 3D printer. I have a 4K resolution one, and I'm presently printing passenger car sides in HO (1/87.1), with well defined scale 1" hemispherical rivet heads and 1/4" layers between steel side and trim.

What flux is that? I have a large number of HO track switches to build, that will be soldered to PC board ties, during construction. A nice cleanable well working flux would be helpful.

Welcome!

https://nscaleships.com/n-z-scale-ship-index/hulett-automatic-unloader/

Wonderful build!

Wow, funny three times over!

To cut the concave ends of the jaws, cut a ring and expand the jaws against the ring, and bore or drill the inside jaw surfaces.

To cut the concave jaw surfaces, reverse the jaws and use a boring bar to cut the now inward facing surfaces.

I believe this solution is one proceeded by "Buba, hold my beer, and watch this!"

Looks like wood to me.

Happy Birthday, Chris!

Not having followed the Garden thread, what size is the building?

Same here, I ordered it yesterday. Much easier process, now.

I would start with a general Google search, then go to Ebay. Ebay has a Saved Search feature (a highlighted option under the search bar), that once selected, they will send you an email, the morning after the item is listed. I generally also save that type of search to my bookmarks, and check a couple of times a day. Kits from 2004 should not be hard to get, though you may have to search for a while for one to come up.

My model was a soft plastic with a paint or rubber color coat, so regular plastic glue did not work. CA did. Try taking the rods out of the tail.

Having built a similar model, use CA on the joints. The snap together sections are not tight enough to hold everything in position. I tried the white glue/canopy glue method, but that also failed.

I would suggest adding some wood blocks at the bow.