thibaultron

Having built a similar model, use CA on the joints. The snap together sections are not tight enough to hold everything in position. I tried the white glue/canopy glue method, but that also failed.

I would suggest adding some wood blocks at the bow.

I'll be following along, also. I have this kit, the Bismark, and Missouri main turrets, and the Bismark and Missouri secondary kits as well.

I'd like to get a good bench top drill press for the smaller drill bits. I know the cheap harbor freight, home depot, etc. ones are nowhere near the quality I need, but don't need the $400 to $1000 ones either, just a good one for modeling. Is the Proxxon or a similar one really "Precision"? Any recommendations? I already have a full sized floor mounted drill press, so just a bench top for light work.

Almost all the scratch built models are made from real boat/ship plans of one degree of detail or so. This companies plans seem to be of a greater amount of detail than most any historic plans available. Have a good time building yours.

Also finish up with an overall coat of matt varnish/finish to blend the glossy area into the rest of the model, unless you plan to have a final gloss finish.

I updated/expanded my spreadsheet on calculating the best angle to place your print at for the smoothest surface finish. The new spreadsheet now includes a calculation for what exposure time to use when printing thinner layers. As you decrease layer height, less exposure time is needed to cure the thinner “strip” of resin, as the light has less material to shine though. I’ve also added a new calculation to show the correct angle to place the print on, should you desire a specific layer height, rather than the other one that showed the correct layer height for a specific angle (still included on the sheet). I’m not sure how useful the new calculation will be, but I figured it was good to include it. General Angle Values For Printing Aflat Surface on a Resin Printer_017.xlsx

The other day I printed out the case of a resin printer heater designed to fit inside the printing area of the printer. I wanted to insure that it would fit, before buying the two most expensive parts (the heater/fan, and the power supply. It does indeed fit inside my Anycubic Mono 4K, so I'll order the rest of the parts. Once it is built I can Use some of the resins that require 25C/77F, or more, for best results. In the winter I can't get the shop that warm with my space heater, and in the summer the temp will drop at night, and 77F is a little warm for doing any type of physically active work. Here is the video I found on the heater, files are listed in the description block:

Thanks!!!

First, throw away the Gorilla Glue, or at least save it for other non-hobby uses. I don't know of anyway to soften that type of glue. You may have to carefully cut the two sides of the bulkhead free separately, and either remake it, or glue each side back on separately.

If you decide to get the Mono 4K, there is a Facebook group for this printer. We also have a 3D printer thread in this forum.

I trid to order from his site, but was unable to enter my country and state, when I went to the address area of the cart.

Using a cat for scale is much more visually stunning, than a coin!

If you decide to stick with grub screws (set screws in the USA), you can either punch a small brass disk, and place it in the bottom of the hole. or buy screws with a brass tip. I used the latter on the 12 inch metal lathe, that I was forced to sell a few years back.

No, I've been finishing the renovations in my shop, and building the shelves/legs for my HO layout. I'm also having enough problems with one hip, that it will shortly have to be replaced. It now takes me a few days to do stuff that would formerly take me a few hours. I hope to get back to her soon.

Your method of pouring the babbit material was also used for early car crank shaft and rod bearings, as well as on most early machine tools.

A little known factiod. As well as fuel tank size, another limiting factor when flying these planes, was that castor oil was added to the gas for lubricating internal parts, and the exhaust retained a decent portion of this!

Well done, Chris!

Beautiful work!

Santa Fe Superintendent’s Car In Ho Scale Part 002 Painted the car side and a print of the oil bunker today. The paint I used is a bit darker than what the final model will be, but it does what I wanted, make the details Pop! Here is the picture of the test piece now All that scale detail does show. It is even visible at normal viewing distances. What a relief! You can even see the beveling of half round window sill ends. One bad thing is how visible the layer lines are, even at the ideal angle, once painted. I’ll have to think on this as there will be lots more rivets, which will make sanding these difficult, and a filler type primer may make the details disappear, and still require sanding. I may try printing this vertically, and see how that works. To do this I’ll have to print a side as two pieces, but that can work. Here is a picture of the rivet detail on the bunker. The overall print failed, but I’ll talk about that later. It does show that the rivets print crisply. The rivets are a scale 1 1/2 inches in diameter, spaced 1 5/8 inches on center. So detail wise the printer is doing great. The layer lines are also present on this , but they were also present on the ShapeWays print I had done quite a while back. The ShapeWays rivets could be seen, but they were connected by shallow valleys.

Heck for 500,00 pounds I could have a model big enough to actually sail in built!

Here are some pictures of the locomotive skirts I printed out a few days ago, as applied temporally to the model. First the model without the skirts Now with the skirt parts just set in place. The chunk missing from the bottom left of the right skirt, happened when I was removing a reinforcing band used during printing. Shows why I will have to use a les brittle resin on the final parts. The skirt parts are just set in place. The square tab at the top would be trimmed when finally installed. I have to thin the skirts a little, they stick past the inside of the shell and would prevent removing the shell from the frame, for servicing. I also have to remove some of the detail from behind that area, as the details stick out a little past the shell. I may also add tabs behind the skirts, and mount them to the frame rather than the shell.

Not quite recommended, but funny anyway. Several years ago when I was doing the RC Warship Combat, one of the members that came to that year's Nationals, had an unusual solution to bringing his ship. He had one of the large battleships, which at 1/144th was quite long, but he had a small car. So he put a clamshell carrier on top, and cut form fitting slots in each end. He placed the ship in with about a foot and a half sticking out each end, and traveled several hundred miles like that! He said he got lots of strange looks along the way!

As promised, here is a more detailed write up on my passenger car test print. Santa Fe Superintendent’s Car In Ho Scale Finally got a test print of the rear of the car printed! I wanted to make sure the 1” scale rivets would print out on my Anycubic Mono 4K printer, as well as seeing how some of the other features appear. The short answer is, fantastic! Maybe too well in fact. Anyway, let’s start at the beginning. The railroads used Business Cars for the travel of the upper management during railroad related activities, and the occasional personal ones also (the perks of position). These resembled regular passenger cars, but were better outfitted. The Santa Fe in addition had smaller slightly less fancy cars for their division supervisors, that were used as they traveled back and forth across the tracks they were responsible for. There are only a few HO Scale models of these cars, two offerings from brass importers, and an old somewhat crude (by today’s standards) 1960s vintage stamped metal sided kit, all out of production. The brass models, when you can find them are expensive, and one model from Hallmark, only represents one of the 20 or 30 cars in the class. During their lifetimes (1920s through early 70s), they were modified, many extensively when air conditioning was added, and some changes were made when different groups of cars were delivered in the 1920s. These cars were also shorter than the regular 80 foot long business cars, at about 60 feet long. Anyway, after many months of drawing and correcting as I found new information, I’ve final reached the point being able actually 3D print something! In this case just a test print of about half of one side. I wanted to test both the printer’s ability to print details such as HO scale 1” rivet heads, and the height difference between layers of steel sheets, and the visibility of those features. I didn’t want to lay down several hundred rivets on top of two differ height layers, only to find that they didn’t print at that size! The 3d file for this test is shown here in a screen shot from the Lychee slicer I used to create the print files. This has one row of vertical rivets along the left side of the leftmost window, as well as the various levels of steel sheets and trim. That window also has the window frame recessed and the half round outside window sill. The section of the car side is 30 feet long. The print took about 16 hours to print, at a 30um layer height. The 30um height was chosen as one full length side fits inside the printer’s print volume at about 50 degrees of tilt, and with this printer placing the print at 49.4 degrees with that layer height gives the smoothest surface finish to all those large flat areas. Just take my word for it. I developed a nice spread sheet based on some Web write-ups and videos, to calculate those settings. The print was done at an exposure of 2.2 seconds per layer using Elegoo Standard Rapid Gray resin. When you go to thinner layers, you need to reduce the exposure time by ½ of the percent difference in the layer height. So from my standard exposure of 2.75 seconds for the standard 50um layer height (30 being 40% less than 50), I reduced the time to 2.2 seconds or 20% less (technical jargon portion finished). After about 16 hours of printing I had this finished print (Yea! No failures) hanging from the build plate. Settings And the important end of the printed side. I have, unfortunately misplaced my camera (messy shop) and this is the best shot I could get using a magnifying lamp and my cell phone camera. The rivets and layers printed out perfectly! Unfortunately, they may be too fine to actually be seen, once a car is painted! So I’ll have to paint this and see what it looks like. Here are some photos of an actual passenger car, I took at my local museum, and the rivets stand out much more in person, even though the printed rivets are completely scale and the same size as the ones on this car. There is a problem with the print itself. If you look closely at the photo you can see that the left side of the window ID bowed out a little towards the inside. I’ll have to add some additional supports to these surfaces. The part came out to within about a scale ¼ inch over the 30 feet, so I’m satisfied. The print is also flat, and over the last few hours has remained so (sometimes a problem with resin parts). And a shot of the car behind this on to show a view from a slight distance These pictures were taken with the sun behind me, so that could be adding to the contrast.

Accourding to an article in Naval Proceeding in the 80s. The Japanese ships used WWI era technology for armor and shells, giving for thickness of armor per inch less protection than the American WWII era battleship armor. The shells also had less penetrating power. So the larger guns on the Yamato, and thicker armor only had better performance at long range where the larger heavier shell would have better performance in plunging shots. The US ships had better radar controlled firing systems, and better speed, allowing them to better set the field of battle. At closer ranges the US ships armor and shells held the advantage. But we will never know for sure.