thibaultron

I'll be following also! Bruce D, where did you get the original PDF?

However, do double check the numbers against the drawings, for gross errors, to be sure. On my Santa Fe Business car some of the dimensions given were off by a foot or more, over what the drawings showed, and when matched against the photos.

Part 003 Finally got started on the actual model today. I printed out the frame drawing scans, one per sheet, onto cardstock. I measured to make sure the size was correct, then taped the sheet for Frame 6 onto the glass sheet on the workbench. I went through the wood sheets, until I found the two shims needed for this frame. They glue at the tops of the frame drawing. I brushed some glue onto them, put them in place then put weights on each to keep them flat, while it dries. I’ll go back, hopefully, tomorrow, and start on the actual frame construction.

That wax is also excellent for applying to the metal working surfaces, of your wood working tools.\ (table saw tables, scroll saw tables, etc.). It protects them from rust, and does not transfer to the wood, after drying.

Part 002 I did some prep work over the last couple days. I’ve scanned in the frame drawings, so I can print out each as I’m working on that frame. When you build the frames, there are spacers that have to be glued to the plans, so I want to have the printouts, to glue to, rather than the plans sheet. I bought new 5” sanding disks, and new belts for my Delta belt/disk sander. I had a hard time locating them in Home Depot, as the vast majority of the sanding disks, are for the newer tools that mount them using hooks, rather than self sticking ones. They were buried up in one corner, with about 10 times the selection of the hook types. The selection was also limited, the 120 and 220, were the finest grits they had. The belts were also limited to the one package with the three grits shown. I used Goof Off to clean the surface of the aluminum disk, so the new disks would sit flush. I also pulled out the small parts, and I’m glad I did! The bag holding the 20 cannon balls had ripped, and several were floating around the parts box. If I had not noticed this, some of them may have gotten lost as I progressed. As it was, one of them fell out of the bag and rolled off the workbench! As it turned out, it ended up stuck between the back and cushion of my chair. I retrieved it before it fell between them, which was good, as the area under the seam is sealed, and I would have never found it, if it had fallen in. I put the brass balls in a small jewelry can I had, and separated the bags of screws for the frame box, into separate cans as well. I was pleased to see that each of the three screw types, were in separate bags, not jumbled together. The three bags were stapled to one label. I then placed the cans and parts bags into a clear plastic compartment box. Not a lot of progress, but it has been a busy few days for me, so I’m happy to have made some progress. The ripped cannon ball bag, and the label for the screws. The small jewelry cans with the screws and brass balls. The parts in the container. In addition to these, there are the 3D printed corners for the frame box, which were too big to put in this box. Looking at these pictures, reminds me that I have to dig the PE fret out of the box, and put it in a container too, before it gets lost, or bent.

Another disadvantaged lefty, also

Might I suggest some little laser cut ribs, to go inside the gun base, so you can bend the brass stock curves, smoothly? They could then be removed after the base is completed. Perhaps one set could be reused for the other bases.

You will find the topslide useful for many future projects.

Using a live center at the tailstock would help, as you could use less pressure holding that end of the rod. For repeatability, you could make a flat sheet pattern, put a pointer on the topslide, and mount the pattern to the bed. Then slowly run the dails holding the pionter against the pattern, as you cut the rod.

Buy some nylon screws, the epoxy may not glue to them. Otherwise, put in a screw from the top, epoxy the nuts and back the screws out as the epoxy starts to set. Run a tap down from the top once it is set. You may have to run a tap size drill down from the top, to clear out the keel, then a clearance drill, carefully, up from the bottom, following the hole from the tap drill.

Imaginative fix on the spine!

I'll be following your build! I have this kit on order, thought I may not build the full mast, due to the height.

Welcome to wooden ship modeling! You've made a great start.

I love the base! Great display!

Maury, run a tap through those nuts to make sure the threads are clean, while they are still assesable. Dont't ask.

One problem I can see with them, is it would be difficult to wear them, if you already are wearing glasses.

Part 001 I’m starting my build log of the CAF Models HMS Granado Cross-section in 1/48th scale (https://cafmodel.com/). This kit is a Plank On Frame with one side planked, and the other unplanked, to show all the frame/rib detail. CAF has a slightly different approach to the traditional (at least modern tradition) laser cut parts. Instead CAF CNC Mills the major components, allowing for better preshaping of the parts, for the modeler. Their site has more pictures of the completed model. The HMS Granado was a Bomb Vessel. Instead of a broadside of cannons, she was build with just a few defensive cannons and two large bore mortars set in wells on the deck. Regular cannon were setup for ship to ship engagements, and could not be elevated to any great degree. Thus ships of the line could not readily reduce a fortification, unless it was set at close to sea level, and even then they could mostly just attack the walls of the fort. The mortars on a bomb vessel however were designed to fire at high angles, allowing it to fire over the walls, into the interior of the fort itself. They were also of a much larger caliber than even a large broadside cannon. The mortar shells also had explosive charges to increase the damage. The bomb vessels were generally moored in place, out of the range of the fort, during action with anchor lines at the bow and stern. This allowed the ship to be turned to further zero in the targeting aim, and insured that once the range and target were attained, repeated fire would land in the same spot, rather than having to resight for every shot. The ship was defended from ships of the enemy fleet, by regular ships from her navy. To allow for a clearer field of fire the ships generally had two rather than the typical three masts, that a warship this size would carry. This model is of the larger of the two mortars, along with the cover for the well, used during sailing, to prevent water from filling the well from wave and rain. The cross-section includes the large deck support beams, and the racks the shot was stored on. Here is a photo showing a drawing of the completed model. The large box is fully packed with modeling goodies! One box contains all the hardware for the model, as well as hardware for the unique acrylic building frame. You build a box with supports for the frames and then assemble the model in this box, once all the individual frames have been assembled. The other box has all the acrylic pieces for the frame box. There is also a small sheet of photo-etched details. Included is a set of plans. These photos show the CNC milled wood parts. They are staying in the shrink wrap, and I will open them as needed during the construction. If you look closely you can see that some of the pieces have been milled on all sides to the correct shape. There will, of course, be more shaping on most of them, but a lot less than if you started with parts that were 2D laser cut on just two sides. Some of the flat parts are laser cut. The loop hanging down in this shot, is my camera strap, opps. The instruction book is a well detailed, illustrated step by step guide. It comes in a semi-bound clear binder. I proceeded to unbind it, by peeling off the cover, scraping the glue along the spine, and removing the staples. I’ll scan the whole book, so that I can print out each page, if any should get damaged during the build. I have more than once spilled glue or paint while building a model. I will also scan in the plans, for my own use only, so that I can print sections of the plans that you build various assemblies on top of. The frames, for example, are built on top of the plans.

CAF is, so far, the only legal (ie. non pirated kit manufacturer), based in China. I ordered two kits from them, and while it took a while, received both well packed and in good shape. Their kits are high quality.

That's like the Lowes "Craftsman Tools". They are not made by the same company that the Sears Craftsman tools were made by. Lowes bought the name and logo from Sears, but Stanley makes the tools. Sears still sells them, also, but reserved the right to continue to have their original manufacturer produce them, for I believe 10 years.

Curses!! Another hit to my wallet! Thanks for the reference, I ordered one from Amazon.

I used the information in the Hand Reef and Steer book to develop a rigging plan for my Maryland Terrapin Smack. Chappells plans do not give details of the masts, or rigging, though they do show the spars. Anyway this book cleared up some of the mast rigging details I needed.

Well my kit arrived, and my workbench is mostly cleaned off, so I had best start my build log. I'll post some pictures tomorrow, if my first Covid shot doesn't hit me too hard.

No I bought the saw for less than $100. Wish I could have had enough for the Barnes. I've added these on over the course of a couple years.

Part 009 Yesterday the new Miter Gauge I bought from the same person I purchased the backplate and rip fence from arrived. It is a well made all aluminum assembly with nice large angle markings on it. It fit well in the table slot, with only a little slop, much less than the factory one. It also has a larger miter assembly, with one side angled at 45 degrees. The gauge has a nice thick blade screwed onto the protractor, giving a good surface to hold your work piece to. The only down side I see to it is that the position marker on the slide is a dot, rather than a line, making it harder to set the correct angle. The locking screw is well made and provides a strong grip when tightened. I tried cutting some old ¾” X ¾” hard pine strips on it for a project. It did stall a couple times, when I tried to feed it through too quickly, but I was using a 100 tooth blade rather than a more suitable one. The finish on the cut ends was smooth. This size wood is at what I would consider the upper limit, in thickness, so I was happy with the performance.

Coming along nicely!