thibaultron

I read that copper plating the fittings will seal them. Also some flow thru ventalation in the display case helps. Completely sealing the model accelerates the problem.

Part 013 There is an error in the instructions for Frame 8. As detailed in the review of this kit by James H. The instructions do not show the part numbers for the shims that need to be attached to the plans before you start to assemble the frame over it. The picture below shows the part numbers. After mounting the scan of the frame drawing, on the build board, I enlarged the slots in the upper frame piece to mate with the resin spacers inserts, that will used later. Frame 8 is where the upper and lower frame halves start to have a significant offset, vertically, from one another along the bottom edge of the frames. They still match at the false keel notch. If you look at the false keel, you will see it is also getting taller as we progress further. I progressed as in the previous frame by gluing the lower frame pieces together at the mating edges, and installing the chocks later. Using another copy of the frame for reference, I glued the bottom section of the upper frame to the lower frame half, orienting the tips so that they were equally space “Up’ from the lower edge of the bottom of the lower half. After this had set, I placed the rest of the frame pieces in place, along with the resin inserts, so that I could get a feel for how they would fit in place. This is where I ran into a problem. The resin insert on the left hand side, was a little too large! It was too long and I could not get the upper top frame to mate with the neighboring piece, without bringing the outside edges much further in, from the outside edge of the lower half, than those on the right hand side! It also seemed too thick and caused the tip to not mate with the lower frame, at the top (the bottom too, but more on that problem later). I tried sanding it, but finally gave up, and used a square block held against the lines on the drawing to position it. Once satisfied, I glued the other pieces in place. Here I found a mistake I had made. When assembling the lower half of the frame I somehow got the vertical spacing between the shim area and the unshimed sections wrong. And there was a gap between the upper and lower frame halves, where the drawing showed them touching. I once again used Isopropyl Alcohol to soften the glue joints in this area, and took them apart. In the end I had to use an additional cardstock shim, on top of the supplied shim to get the correct spacing. The lower frame top piece may have been cut a little thinner, causing the gap. I didn’t go back and compare it to the opposite piece to be sure, I was satisfied that they now mated correctly. The above picture seems to show the top pieces out of alignment on the right side, but this just an illusion due to the camera angle. With that fixed I moved on to installing the upper half chocks. After these dried, I went back and cut the chocks to match the varying surface levels, as detailed in the previous posts. Yes, the frame drawing has mysteriously suddenly morphed into the one for Frame 9! I changed to the next frame before I took this picture. The camera was in the house, when I was cutting the chocks.

Also note which country your ship/boat comes from. Europen sails were generally a yellower shade than US sails, during the transition to modern canvas sailcloth (witch the US changed to sooner), and some countries had red sails, at least on smaller craft. The sails on the small French fishing boats, like the Sinagot I'm modeling were red, and even today the existing Sinagots, may have either red or white sails, sometimes both, with the red sails having patches of modern white Dacron cloth

As an interesting, historical, note. During the battle between the USS Kearsarge and the CSS Alabama, off the French coast, one of the Alabama's explosive shells lodged in the Kearsarge's sternpost next to the rudder, but failed to explode. Had it done so the battle would have ended differently.

The Wasa museum test fired a replica of one of her cannons, against a replica section of her hull. Basiclly a 25 pound cannon ball would go through Both sides of a ship. The only difference between the ball hitjng between frames or at a frame, was hitting a frame created vastly more splinters. Splinters kill and wounded more crew than the actual cannon ball.

No, he built his from scratch, not a kit, but that one is a beautiful model!

Engraving, yes. Cutting would probably require a much more powerful laser, for anything but the thinnest materials, like paper. Also you will need some sort of protective sheet on your printing table, so as not to mark it.

It looks like the bow was salvaged after the wreck, all those bow planks ending at the same non-frame area. May have been removed at the same time as the copper plates.

An interesting note on the Corliss type engines, is that the valves were partially controlled by vacuum dashpots, like were used on some cars. Most models of them get around this, somehow. Several years ago, there was an article in a machining/steam model magazine, about a modeler that actually build a 1/32 scale one with working dashpots! He also used completely scale nuts and bolts, for which he made his own taps and dies! Some of the bolts had to be viewed through extreme magnification to even see. He also made a complete scale set of tools capable of installing all the fasteners!

The boiler hose probably did not have a second floor "Floor". Likely the boiler was two stories high with walkways at the second floor level. Nice build so far!

Yes, SIG still makes silkspan. The getting it to the UK, though I don't know about.

Any iron fittings would be painted black, on most sailing ships.

Well I just rechecked the specs, it does come with the z-axis probe.

Today, "I pulled the trigger" on the new SainSmart 3020 CNC machine. It is a pre-order item, so I'll likely get it next month. I'll post a review when it arrives. Still need to get more bits, and a z-axis probe. I figured that this was about the same price as a 3018 prover with the aluminum motor z-axis conversion. This is setup with a sturdier frame, though I don't know if they will offer an extension kit in the future. I bought it now to take advantage of the free one year software subscription. I'll try that software out, but look for a non-subscrption software when that runs out.

The museum may have used wood, to prevent them from having to disassemble the engine in the future to replace deteriorating leather. If, they ever have to move the display, the leather that still looked good may fall apart. I visited the Aberdene Proving Grounds Museum in Maryland many years ago., and they had dragged most of the outdoor equipment around. All the equipment that had any rubber tires pneumatic, or solid (generally WWI had solid), had the old rubber ripped off or almost completely destroyed. It was quite upsetting to me to see the displays thus damaged. Later they placed them on cement pads with axle supports holding the tires off the ground, but the damage was done.

I would suggest drilling the threads out of the nuts, so that they slip on and off the cast threads, then a touch of glue when final assembly takes place. The glue will fill the thread area, and a touch of paint will hide the glue. No one will know that the threads are not there.

The CNC router I'm looking at takes up about 18" X 12" workbench area, with about a 6" X 10" cutting capacity. I'm going to put it on a shelf above my workbench. Obviously not for large parts, but I will be able to cut most of any bulkheads and small details on it, in the scales I would use. It should also cut things like nameplates, Chesapeake Bay type trailboard carvings, etc. It is even rated for small aluminum carvings. I'll also use it to create replacement keel and false keel pieces for the defective ones in my HMS Granado Crosection kit. I CADed plans for a Maryland Terrapin Smack that it can cut the bulkheads, and deck furniture for on it, as well as the keel and subdeck (in sub sections). I'm also CADing plans for a Santa Fe passenger car, that I may be able to use this to mill the truck frames for. Maybe I'm spending money on it, that doesn't competely justify, but I think I'll get my moneys worth out of it.

I don't have a printer yet. It is on the list for next month, after I order a CNC router this week.

https://www.danapointtimes.com/pilgrim-demolished-no-determination-cause-sinking/ So Sad!

https://www.soundingsonline.com/news/a-beloved-tall-ship-sinks-in-its-berth

Part 012 I added weights while the glue on the last chocks was drying. Here is the frame with all the pieces glued together. The last steps are to trim the chocks flush with the neighboring timbers. As you go up the frame the timbers get smaller as less strength is needed to support the hull. A chock starts out the same thickness as the larger timber, and the end attached to the thinner timber needs to be trimmed to match. I used a combination of a modeling knife to whittle down the bulk of the area, and Rifflers/Modeling/Needle files to remove the rest. Finally I use 400 grit Wet/Dry sandpaper run along the grain of the wood to remove tooling marks. All these files come in various rough to smooth cutting teeth types. The Rifflers files are used for fine metal finishing, in tight spaces, and are very expensive. The Needle/Modeling files are much cheaper, but generally don’t list the aggressiveness of the cutting teeth. I buy a few different sets from different manufacturers of these files, which hopefully will come with smother and rougher cuts, giving a selection to use in my modeling. The ones I show below, are a from a very cheap set, but have the right cutting teeth for this job. First I use the knife to cut a Stop Cut across the grain, along the line of the finished edge. The Stop Cut helps prevent the wood splitting past the area you are removing, as you whittle along the grain to shear off the unwanted portion, The knife may not cut all the way to the bottom the first time, so press it down several times, and check as you cut, to see if you need to deepen it more. I didn’t want to risk marring the finished surface by using a saw for the cut. On larger pieces a saw may be required. Then I slowly split off the unwanted area in thin sections. Note, in the picture below that there is an extraneous laser etched line on the tip of one of the frame timbers. I’ll just have to live with this. The files I use to finish the cut are: a 3 sided triangular file, a file with one side flat, and the other slightly rounded (humped), and a flat Safety File (file on the right below). The Safety File has one of the long edges flat with no teeth. This allows you to file an area without cutting into the adjacent finished edge. Here is a diagram from the Nicholson “Guide to Files and filing” of a Safe Edge. Finished cut before sanding. Finished Frame 7. Note, that I will sand the taper on the inner and outer frame surfaces once I finish all the frames, and can set them up in the Frame Box. I don’t trust my skills at this point to pre-taper them individually. Next time I will start Frame 8

How do you refill the vat in the middle of a print, so as to not affect the print?

A great YouTube site for learning machining is: https://www.youtube.com/c/mrpete222 He is a retired machinist and shop teacher. Warning: A Huge Major Rabbit Hole! For those of us with the 7X12,16 etc. Mini-lathes, there are a huge number of videos on YouTube on adjusting and rebuilding them.

My scanner seems to be fine. It measures correctly. Thanks.

Flatbed scanner. I hold the area to be scanned and place a book on it to hold it flat.