thibaultron

Looking at other pictures in the Library of Congress collection, the figurehead seams to have been added after 1895. The shield decoration seems to have been the original. Thne stern decoration that goes with the figurehead, looks like fun also.

The Olympia is berthed in Philadelphia, though admittedly, it would be a long walk, for you!

Several Stanley 101s, though not that exact design, for $30 to $50 on Ebay here in US.

A couple things to note about resin printers. The resins are generally toxic, so keep the printer away from children and animals. The resin print is brittle, so be careful handling it. The resin has a shelf life after opening it, so a large resin printer may be expensive to feed, if you are doing small volumes of prints. (OK, three things, but I can't count well).

Nice figurehead!

Is the vise for "Pressed Chicken"?

Part 008 I also bought three Zero Clearance plates for the saw, from Radical RC. The center ridge you see on the bottom of the uninstalled one acts as a stiffener and the rear clamp. When I installed the one shown, I had to press along the edges, after tightening the screw, to snap it flush over the whole surface. I have not run the blade up through any of them yet. I’ll wait until I’m ready to use one. I don’t want to keep putting them on and off, in case doing so shifts them a little, after the slot is cut. They are ~$10 US each, so not a bad deal! I also bought a better miter gauge, off Ebay, from the same seller as the backplate, and rip fence. I’ll review that when it comes in.

Part 007 I bought two new parts for the saw, a backplate and a new rip fence. I got both off of Ebay, from a gentleman who says he has been making them for years. He plans to continue offering them through Ebay. A. The Backplate The back of the saw is open, from the factory, and this plate fits in the empty space. It thus closes the back from any things that might otherwise, accidentally intrude back there. It provides a port to attach a shop vac, which with the back plate on will actually do some good. It also braces the sides of the base to stiffen it. The other important item it provides is an additional lock for the back of the saw blade housing! This picture shows the outside of the plate (once installed). The knob in the curved slot is the rear blade housing lock. The aluminum angle bracket is the brace. Of course, the tube is the vacuum hose attachment port. The castellated top fits into the groves of the underside of the saw table. This is the inside of the plate. The nut on the shaft of the knob, is just to hold it during shipping, and will be discarded. The wing nuts are used when attaching the brace. Here is a picture of the instruction sheet. When installing the backplate, you must either discard the little rear blade guard, or figure out an alternate mounting for it. The backplate fits in tight against the blade housing, so the guard would have to be moved to the inside of the housing. If you look closely at the first picture, you will see scribed lines marking the area you would have to remove to allow for new mounting screws. I chose to simply remove the guard, as the plate seals this area anyway. The upper screw hole in the housing is where the new knob will screw in. The plate is slid in inside the opening and sits down onto the bottom of the table, between the housing and the adjacent ridge. I found that the plate did not fit solidly to the bottom of the table, which has apparently bowed just slightly over the years. This allowed the plate to rock a bit, so I cut a little off of the longer parapet area in the center. Now the plate sits firmly against the table. One effect of this was that the plate sat a little further down causing the knob shaft to rub on the plate. I filed the slot a little wider to fix this. Here are shots of the plate in place. Next the rear brace is installed. Check the fit, as the attachment screw holes are not symmetrical with the center of the base, so the brace only fits with the horizontal lip toward the table. I replaced the wingnuts with 10-24 nylon locknuts. Tighten the nuts down until the nuts on the brace touch the plate. This holds the plate firmly in place. In addition I’m going to drill a hole through the two lips on the base to insure that the plate can’t shift during sawing. B. The Rip Fence The Rip Fence is a big improvement over the factory one. It clamps more securely and has an adjustable fence blade. The fence clamps front to rear, like a full size saw fence, not just with a clamp under the front lip, like the factory one. The back of the factory fence is free floating, being held square just by the stub on the clamp casting on the front of the fence. The new fence is also taller than the original, allowing for more controlled cuts. The new fence can be fine tuned to your saw table, using the two adjustment screws on the main body. The manufacturer also included a nice push stick with it! For my saw I had to fine tune the front lip. As there were a few burs and dings on it. I used a large flat mill file on the front and under the front lip to smooth things out. This is why there are gray areas in the last picture, that is the bare plastic showing through. The adjustment also comes in handy, as I found the front lip to not be perfectly straight on mine. So I can now adjust the blade, if needed, for each fence position. The error is not very large, so most times I will not have to worry about it.

I've dealt with them in the past. always happy with their products.

I believe that to tack a lateen sail, the halyard is loosened, and the tip of the spar is pulled back behind the mast, then the halyard pulled in again with the yard now on the other side of the mast.

Thanks, this will be a big help!

Hey, Matey. I think you left your boat in the water too long!

Yes, thank you! It was a great presentation! Enjoyed it thoroughly.

There are also the old Sterling plans. They are for the schooner rig.

I'll be following. I have the ME kit and the Sterling one. I'm planning to build the Sterling just to show the schooner arrangement, not as a detailed model.

Currently on Ebay, there is a seller who has just started listing accessories for the saw. He has several, including a better rip fence, miter gauge, and a back plate. I ordered the fence and the plate. I contacted him, and he plans to keep listing new items. He has been making them for several years. Presently he has the fence, plate and gauge at least available.

Will be restating soon. I just finished refurbishing my shop to the point I can start working in it, and found the wood I bought for the mast and boom, that had been packed away.

Would the plastic frame allow you to put the unfaired frames in and then sand the outside fair after everything is assembled? For me that might be a better way than risking damaging a frame by over sanding beforehand.

The move from China is already happening. Many manufactures are moving to India, and other SW Asian countries.

I signed up!

Not that brand, but a similar one, for about the same price.

Thanks, everyone, for all the links!

Yes, thanks!

I too, would like to know if there is a US distributor of the Ask tools.

Part 14 Today I installed a small shelf on the back of my spray booth, to mount my new dedicated airbrush compressor. I screwed a couple small shelf brackets to the back of the booth, and temporarily screwed on a small shelf on the brackets. Using this piece, also, means that I have completely used the entire 4X8 sheet of plywood I built the booth from, no waste! I have to buy some small machine screws tomorrow, to finish bolting the shelf in place. I drilled holes in the shelf on either side of the compressor legs for wire ties to hold it in place, while still allowing the rubber feet to dampen vibration. When I install the machine screws, I'll add a couple of eyelets in the main spray booth housing for two additional wire ties at the "forward" edge of the legs. It "Just" slides under the shelf above it, but as I'm going to be moving the work bench and spray booth in the near future, this is not a problem. Sorry the photos are a little out of focus, I didn't realize the flash was turned off on my phone.