thibaultron

For those interested, I've started a log on the process I went through to go from the 2D drawing to the 3D part.
 
"Going From A 2D drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial"

For 4 of the 1/32nd winches, about $20. For 4 of the 1/64th, about $10. I had 4 of each printed, so I can mess up a couple. I've already lost one of the crank handles, it flew off into the same place those drier socks go.

Part 02
 
I’m not going to try to give a step by step tutorial, but rather some specific steps and “Things to watch out for” help.
 
Firstly here is a shot of the SketchUp screen. I’m using the 2015 version, they have released a 2016 version, but I did not want to have to reload the Extensions.
 

 
The Red, Blue, and Green lines represent the X, Y, and Z axis respectively.
 
The top most and left hand most icon bars are the standard SketchUp drawing commands. The lower two icon bars are commands for the Extension programs I mentioned last time. The icon at the very bottom left, is also for an Extension.
 
You can access the Extension Warehouse from the Window menu, not the Extensions menu, that one shows a list of most (not necessarily all, hey it’s a free program) of the ones you’ve added.
 

 
Selecting the Extension Warehouse item will bring up this screen
 

 
You can select either the More button at the bottom of the Top Extensions window, or the Browse all of the Extensions button.
 
I selected More and the following screen is displayed
 

 
 
This is a list of the extensions available from this site. There are other sites that offer many more. A Google search will find them.
 
You can scroll down the list to find the one you want. As you go down to the bottom, more titles will be loaded. If you open an extension, it will have a button to install that one. If you just go back to the list, the list will be displayed starting from the first item again, a pain.
 
Read the descriptions, some will have instructions on using the Extension, as well as listing any other Extensions that may have to be installed before that one. Many require you buy them, but the ones I use are free ones.
 
The Extensions I used for this drawing are:
 
Arcs Circles
Eneroth Upright Extruder
CleanUp3 (not CleanUp, or CleanUp2)
Rotate 90
Shapes
SketchUp STL (Used to create the type of files to send to the 3D printing company)
 
If I find any others I used, I will list them as I remember them.
 
The SketchUp site, has several tutorial videos, and there are many others on YouTube. I’m going to assume you have some practice with the program.
 
Watch the tutorial videos and get some practice.
 
Next time getting your drawing into SketchUp.

Part 01
 
Please forgive me for any typos.
This log will be my journey from a 2D drawing to producing (well having printed), a 3D model.
 
The subject model is a Hand Cranked Oyster Dredge Winch. These were used on Chesapeake Bay oyster dredges, before the advent of gas engine driven winches. The winches are used to pull in the dredge after it has scraped the oysters from the oyster bed.
 
The original winch was about 36 inches high at the crank/drum axle. The original winch parts were castings for the major components.
 
Here is a photo of the winch at a museum, with a dredge frame behind it.
 

 
Here is a picture of the finished 2D drawing (the crank handles are still too long, I corrected this in the 3D SketchUp drawing), and a 3D projection, of an earlier version.
 

 

 
Why didn’t I just go from the 3D CAD to a 3D printed part? For the 3D CAD drawing, above, I had developed it using just proportions, and some guesses. A friend, then sent me some rough dimensions, and I redrew it. The 2D drawing is of this final version.
 
I decided to go directly from this drawing to SketchUp, a dedicated 3D solid CAD program.
 
There is a free version of SketchUp, that I used for the majority of the drafting. The only real function it lacks is the ability to import DXF files, a standard CADing file type. I have an earlier Pro version, that I used for importing my 2D drawing.
 
It also lacks some 3D solids Boolean functions, but these are not needed, you can do them yourself, it just takes a little more work. Parts you generated based on a drawing, which are generally “Extruded” from the 2D lines to give them height (You’ll see what I mean later), can’t be operated on by these functions anyway.
 
The free version of SketchUp, can however, import graphics files, so you could either use your CAD program to create a graphic, and import that, or just use it as a reference when creating the parts in SketchUp.
 
SketchUp has the ability to import “Extensions”, additional mini programs, to add functionality. I used several of them, and will list them later.
 
For now here is the finished SketchUp drawing.
 

 
This is the 1/32nd scale version, I had to  modify the parts for 1/64th scale, to meet the minimum wall thicknesses the 3D printing company required. In this scale, I will be using metal rods for the axle and support rods tying the legs together.
 
I’m creating both 1/32 and 1/64 scale parts for 2 different models. The 1/64th scale winches are for my Pyro Oyster Dredge model, which is a fairly good model of the skipjack “Carrie Price”. The 1/32nd ones are for a planed future scratch build of the same boat. I also need a set of 1/28th scale winches for my Midwest Skipjack. The 1/28th scale parts will be a simple scale up of the 1/32 drawing, no modifications needed.
 
The company I used for the printing was Shapeways. There are others out there, but I choose Shapeways as they specializes in serving modelers. They also have an online file/drawing checking system to find any problems with your drawings, before you try to have them printed.
 
Below is a picture of the printed 1/32nd scale parts.
 

 

 
I stuck the crank handles into foam to hold them, hence the unpainted tips. The gear is 5/32” in diameter, and has 18 teeth. The teeth printed out sharply.
 
3D printing can give you quite nice detail. I don’t yet have any pictures of the 1/64th scale parts, I have not primed them yet, and without this they are hard to see even under magnification, but I can distinctly feel the gear teeth with my figure nail.

Ron, I have been wanting to learn CAD, just have never found enough time are patience to dive in. Maybe now is the time to give it a go.
 
Today, I sanded the second keel to the correct shape. I acquired a shop vacuum while working on the remodeling. By connecting the vacuum to the sander, I can run it inside the house. I no longer have to run in and out to sand a part.

 
I also worked on drawing the transom. Since I do not know CAD, I did it the old fashioned way with T-Square and Drawing board.

The Transom is the same for both boats. The 1942 version is just taller. The Transom is tilted at 42deg. The dashed lines at the bottom is the tapper for planking. There is 3 inch camber to the deck and that is shown by the lines on the side and in the center.The angle of the transom makes drawing the camber a bit tricky. I figured I would deal with it, when I get ready to lay th deck.
 
My goal this week is to get the transoms cut out, and create the rudder sleeves/housing.  I need to cut the tapper into the bow stem and add a notch for the chin logs. The dead rise at the bow is 12 inches. The places the chin logs resting on the keelson.
 
All of these plans do not take into account my wife's plans though.
 
Thank you for stopping by.
 
Catch Yall Later,
 

I want to at least test assemble, one, before making it public. I ordered 2 sets of cheap 61-80 number drill bits, to use as axles and support rods. The frames are coming along.
 
I am also starting a log of the 2D drawing to 3D printed parts process.

Part 02
 
I’m not going to try to give a step by step tutorial, but rather some specific steps and “Things to watch out for” help.
 
Firstly here is a shot of the SketchUp screen. I’m using the 2015 version, they have released a 2016 version, but I did not want to have to reload the Extensions.
 

 
The Red, Blue, and Green lines represent the X, Y, and Z axis respectively.
 
The top most and left hand most icon bars are the standard SketchUp drawing commands. The lower two icon bars are commands for the Extension programs I mentioned last time. The icon at the very bottom left, is also for an Extension.
 
You can access the Extension Warehouse from the Window menu, not the Extensions menu, that one shows a list of most (not necessarily all, hey it’s a free program) of the ones you’ve added.
 

 
Selecting the Extension Warehouse item will bring up this screen
 

 
You can select either the More button at the bottom of the Top Extensions window, or the Browse all of the Extensions button.
 
I selected More and the following screen is displayed
 

 
 
This is a list of the extensions available from this site. There are other sites that offer many more. A Google search will find them.
 
You can scroll down the list to find the one you want. As you go down to the bottom, more titles will be loaded. If you open an extension, it will have a button to install that one. If you just go back to the list, the list will be displayed starting from the first item again, a pain.
 
Read the descriptions, some will have instructions on using the Extension, as well as listing any other Extensions that may have to be installed before that one. Many require you buy them, but the ones I use are free ones.
 
The Extensions I used for this drawing are:
 
Arcs Circles
Eneroth Upright Extruder
CleanUp3 (not CleanUp, or CleanUp2)
Rotate 90
Shapes
SketchUp STL (Used to create the type of files to send to the 3D printing company)
 
If I find any others I used, I will list them as I remember them.
 
The SketchUp site, has several tutorial videos, and there are many others on YouTube. I’m going to assume you have some practice with the program.
 
Watch the tutorial videos and get some practice.
 
Next time getting your drawing into SketchUp.

I want to at least test assemble, one, before making it public. I ordered 2 sets of cheap 61-80 number drill bits, to use as axles and support rods. The frames are coming along.
 
I am also starting a log of the 2D drawing to 3D printed parts process.

Part 02
 
I’m not going to try to give a step by step tutorial, but rather some specific steps and “Things to watch out for” help.
 
Firstly here is a shot of the SketchUp screen. I’m using the 2015 version, they have released a 2016 version, but I did not want to have to reload the Extensions.
 

 
The Red, Blue, and Green lines represent the X, Y, and Z axis respectively.
 
The top most and left hand most icon bars are the standard SketchUp drawing commands. The lower two icon bars are commands for the Extension programs I mentioned last time. The icon at the very bottom left, is also for an Extension.
 
You can access the Extension Warehouse from the Window menu, not the Extensions menu, that one shows a list of most (not necessarily all, hey it’s a free program) of the ones you’ve added.
 

 
Selecting the Extension Warehouse item will bring up this screen
 

 
You can select either the More button at the bottom of the Top Extensions window, or the Browse all of the Extensions button.
 
I selected More and the following screen is displayed
 

 
 
This is a list of the extensions available from this site. There are other sites that offer many more. A Google search will find them.
 
You can scroll down the list to find the one you want. As you go down to the bottom, more titles will be loaded. If you open an extension, it will have a button to install that one. If you just go back to the list, the list will be displayed starting from the first item again, a pain.
 
Read the descriptions, some will have instructions on using the Extension, as well as listing any other Extensions that may have to be installed before that one. Many require you buy them, but the ones I use are free ones.
 
The Extensions I used for this drawing are:
 
Arcs Circles
Eneroth Upright Extruder
CleanUp3 (not CleanUp, or CleanUp2)
Rotate 90
Shapes
SketchUp STL (Used to create the type of files to send to the 3D printing company)
 
If I find any others I used, I will list them as I remember them.
 
The SketchUp site, has several tutorial videos, and there are many others on YouTube. I’m going to assume you have some practice with the program.
 
Watch the tutorial videos and get some practice.
 
Next time getting your drawing into SketchUp.

Part 01
 
Please forgive me for any typos.
This log will be my journey from a 2D drawing to producing (well having printed), a 3D model.
 
The subject model is a Hand Cranked Oyster Dredge Winch. These were used on Chesapeake Bay oyster dredges, before the advent of gas engine driven winches. The winches are used to pull in the dredge after it has scraped the oysters from the oyster bed.
 
The original winch was about 36 inches high at the crank/drum axle. The original winch parts were castings for the major components.
 
Here is a photo of the winch at a museum, with a dredge frame behind it.
 

 
Here is a picture of the finished 2D drawing (the crank handles are still too long, I corrected this in the 3D SketchUp drawing), and a 3D projection, of an earlier version.
 

 

 
Why didn’t I just go from the 3D CAD to a 3D printed part? For the 3D CAD drawing, above, I had developed it using just proportions, and some guesses. A friend, then sent me some rough dimensions, and I redrew it. The 2D drawing is of this final version.
 
I decided to go directly from this drawing to SketchUp, a dedicated 3D solid CAD program.
 
There is a free version of SketchUp, that I used for the majority of the drafting. The only real function it lacks is the ability to import DXF files, a standard CADing file type. I have an earlier Pro version, that I used for importing my 2D drawing.
 
It also lacks some 3D solids Boolean functions, but these are not needed, you can do them yourself, it just takes a little more work. Parts you generated based on a drawing, which are generally “Extruded” from the 2D lines to give them height (You’ll see what I mean later), can’t be operated on by these functions anyway.
 
The free version of SketchUp, can however, import graphics files, so you could either use your CAD program to create a graphic, and import that, or just use it as a reference when creating the parts in SketchUp.
 
SketchUp has the ability to import “Extensions”, additional mini programs, to add functionality. I used several of them, and will list them later.
 
For now here is the finished SketchUp drawing.
 

 
This is the 1/32nd scale version, I had to  modify the parts for 1/64th scale, to meet the minimum wall thicknesses the 3D printing company required. In this scale, I will be using metal rods for the axle and support rods tying the legs together.
 
I’m creating both 1/32 and 1/64 scale parts for 2 different models. The 1/64th scale winches are for my Pyro Oyster Dredge model, which is a fairly good model of the skipjack “Carrie Price”. The 1/32nd ones are for a planed future scratch build of the same boat. I also need a set of 1/28th scale winches for my Midwest Skipjack. The 1/28th scale parts will be a simple scale up of the 1/32 drawing, no modifications needed.
 
The company I used for the printing was Shapeways. There are others out there, but I choose Shapeways as they specializes in serving modelers. They also have an online file/drawing checking system to find any problems with your drawings, before you try to have them printed.
 
Below is a picture of the printed 1/32nd scale parts.
 

 

 
I stuck the crank handles into foam to hold them, hence the unpainted tips. The gear is 5/32” in diameter, and has 18 teeth. The teeth printed out sharply.
 
3D printing can give you quite nice detail. I don’t yet have any pictures of the 1/64th scale parts, I have not primed them yet, and without this they are hard to see even under magnification, but I can distinctly feel the gear teeth with my figure nail.

I started the log, it is called:
 
"Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial"

Part 02
 
I’m not going to try to give a step by step tutorial, but rather some specific steps and “Things to watch out for” help.
 
Firstly here is a shot of the SketchUp screen. I’m using the 2015 version, they have released a 2016 version, but I did not want to have to reload the Extensions.
 

 
The Red, Blue, and Green lines represent the X, Y, and Z axis respectively.
 
The top most and left hand most icon bars are the standard SketchUp drawing commands. The lower two icon bars are commands for the Extension programs I mentioned last time. The icon at the very bottom left, is also for an Extension.
 
You can access the Extension Warehouse from the Window menu, not the Extensions menu, that one shows a list of most (not necessarily all, hey it’s a free program) of the ones you’ve added.
 

 
Selecting the Extension Warehouse item will bring up this screen
 

 
You can select either the More button at the bottom of the Top Extensions window, or the Browse all of the Extensions button.
 
I selected More and the following screen is displayed
 

 
 
This is a list of the extensions available from this site. There are other sites that offer many more. A Google search will find them.
 
You can scroll down the list to find the one you want. As you go down to the bottom, more titles will be loaded. If you open an extension, it will have a button to install that one. If you just go back to the list, the list will be displayed starting from the first item again, a pain.
 
Read the descriptions, some will have instructions on using the Extension, as well as listing any other Extensions that may have to be installed before that one. Many require you buy them, but the ones I use are free ones.
 
The Extensions I used for this drawing are:
 
Arcs Circles
Eneroth Upright Extruder
CleanUp3 (not CleanUp, or CleanUp2)
Rotate 90
Shapes
SketchUp STL (Used to create the type of files to send to the 3D printing company)
 
If I find any others I used, I will list them as I remember them.
 
The SketchUp site, has several tutorial videos, and there are many others on YouTube. I’m going to assume you have some practice with the program.
 
Watch the tutorial videos and get some practice.
 
Next time getting your drawing into SketchUp.

Part 01
 
Please forgive me for any typos.
This log will be my journey from a 2D drawing to producing (well having printed), a 3D model.
 
The subject model is a Hand Cranked Oyster Dredge Winch. These were used on Chesapeake Bay oyster dredges, before the advent of gas engine driven winches. The winches are used to pull in the dredge after it has scraped the oysters from the oyster bed.
 
The original winch was about 36 inches high at the crank/drum axle. The original winch parts were castings for the major components.
 
Here is a photo of the winch at a museum, with a dredge frame behind it.
 

 
Here is a picture of the finished 2D drawing (the crank handles are still too long, I corrected this in the 3D SketchUp drawing), and a 3D projection, of an earlier version.
 

 

 
Why didn’t I just go from the 3D CAD to a 3D printed part? For the 3D CAD drawing, above, I had developed it using just proportions, and some guesses. A friend, then sent me some rough dimensions, and I redrew it. The 2D drawing is of this final version.
 
I decided to go directly from this drawing to SketchUp, a dedicated 3D solid CAD program.
 
There is a free version of SketchUp, that I used for the majority of the drafting. The only real function it lacks is the ability to import DXF files, a standard CADing file type. I have an earlier Pro version, that I used for importing my 2D drawing.
 
It also lacks some 3D solids Boolean functions, but these are not needed, you can do them yourself, it just takes a little more work. Parts you generated based on a drawing, which are generally “Extruded” from the 2D lines to give them height (You’ll see what I mean later), can’t be operated on by these functions anyway.
 
The free version of SketchUp, can however, import graphics files, so you could either use your CAD program to create a graphic, and import that, or just use it as a reference when creating the parts in SketchUp.
 
SketchUp has the ability to import “Extensions”, additional mini programs, to add functionality. I used several of them, and will list them later.
 
For now here is the finished SketchUp drawing.
 

 
This is the 1/32nd scale version, I had to  modify the parts for 1/64th scale, to meet the minimum wall thicknesses the 3D printing company required. In this scale, I will be using metal rods for the axle and support rods tying the legs together.
 
I’m creating both 1/32 and 1/64 scale parts for 2 different models. The 1/64th scale winches are for my Pyro Oyster Dredge model, which is a fairly good model of the skipjack “Carrie Price”. The 1/32nd ones are for a planed future scratch build of the same boat. I also need a set of 1/28th scale winches for my Midwest Skipjack. The 1/28th scale parts will be a simple scale up of the 1/32 drawing, no modifications needed.
 
The company I used for the printing was Shapeways. There are others out there, but I choose Shapeways as they specializes in serving modelers. They also have an online file/drawing checking system to find any problems with your drawings, before you try to have them printed.
 
Below is a picture of the printed 1/32nd scale parts.
 

 

 
I stuck the crank handles into foam to hold them, hence the unpainted tips. The gear is 5/32” in diameter, and has 18 teeth. The teeth printed out sharply.
 
3D printing can give you quite nice detail. I don’t yet have any pictures of the 1/64th scale parts, I have not primed them yet, and without this they are hard to see even under magnification, but I can distinctly feel the gear teeth with my figure nail.

Part 02
 
I’m not going to try to give a step by step tutorial, but rather some specific steps and “Things to watch out for” help.
 
Firstly here is a shot of the SketchUp screen. I’m using the 2015 version, they have released a 2016 version, but I did not want to have to reload the Extensions.
 

 
The Red, Blue, and Green lines represent the X, Y, and Z axis respectively.
 
The top most and left hand most icon bars are the standard SketchUp drawing commands. The lower two icon bars are commands for the Extension programs I mentioned last time. The icon at the very bottom left, is also for an Extension.
 
You can access the Extension Warehouse from the Window menu, not the Extensions menu, that one shows a list of most (not necessarily all, hey it’s a free program) of the ones you’ve added.
 

 
Selecting the Extension Warehouse item will bring up this screen
 

 
You can select either the More button at the bottom of the Top Extensions window, or the Browse all of the Extensions button.
 
I selected More and the following screen is displayed
 

 
 
This is a list of the extensions available from this site. There are other sites that offer many more. A Google search will find them.
 
You can scroll down the list to find the one you want. As you go down to the bottom, more titles will be loaded. If you open an extension, it will have a button to install that one. If you just go back to the list, the list will be displayed starting from the first item again, a pain.
 
Read the descriptions, some will have instructions on using the Extension, as well as listing any other Extensions that may have to be installed before that one. Many require you buy them, but the ones I use are free ones.
 
The Extensions I used for this drawing are:
 
Arcs Circles
Eneroth Upright Extruder
CleanUp3 (not CleanUp, or CleanUp2)
Rotate 90
Shapes
SketchUp STL (Used to create the type of files to send to the 3D printing company)
 
If I find any others I used, I will list them as I remember them.
 
The SketchUp site, has several tutorial videos, and there are many others on YouTube. I’m going to assume you have some practice with the program.
 
Watch the tutorial videos and get some practice.
 
Next time getting your drawing into SketchUp.

Part 02
 
I’m not going to try to give a step by step tutorial, but rather some specific steps and “Things to watch out for” help.
 
Firstly here is a shot of the SketchUp screen. I’m using the 2015 version, they have released a 2016 version, but I did not want to have to reload the Extensions.
 

 
The Red, Blue, and Green lines represent the X, Y, and Z axis respectively.
 
The top most and left hand most icon bars are the standard SketchUp drawing commands. The lower two icon bars are commands for the Extension programs I mentioned last time. The icon at the very bottom left, is also for an Extension.
 
You can access the Extension Warehouse from the Window menu, not the Extensions menu, that one shows a list of most (not necessarily all, hey it’s a free program) of the ones you’ve added.
 

 
Selecting the Extension Warehouse item will bring up this screen
 

 
You can select either the More button at the bottom of the Top Extensions window, or the Browse all of the Extensions button.
 
I selected More and the following screen is displayed
 

 
 
This is a list of the extensions available from this site. There are other sites that offer many more. A Google search will find them.
 
You can scroll down the list to find the one you want. As you go down to the bottom, more titles will be loaded. If you open an extension, it will have a button to install that one. If you just go back to the list, the list will be displayed starting from the first item again, a pain.
 
Read the descriptions, some will have instructions on using the Extension, as well as listing any other Extensions that may have to be installed before that one. Many require you buy them, but the ones I use are free ones.
 
The Extensions I used for this drawing are:
 
Arcs Circles
Eneroth Upright Extruder
CleanUp3 (not CleanUp, or CleanUp2)
Rotate 90
Shapes
SketchUp STL (Used to create the type of files to send to the 3D printing company)
 
If I find any others I used, I will list them as I remember them.
 
The SketchUp site, has several tutorial videos, and there are many others on YouTube. I’m going to assume you have some practice with the program.
 
Watch the tutorial videos and get some practice.
 
Next time getting your drawing into SketchUp.

Part 01
 
Please forgive me for any typos.
This log will be my journey from a 2D drawing to producing (well having printed), a 3D model.
 
The subject model is a Hand Cranked Oyster Dredge Winch. These were used on Chesapeake Bay oyster dredges, before the advent of gas engine driven winches. The winches are used to pull in the dredge after it has scraped the oysters from the oyster bed.
 
The original winch was about 36 inches high at the crank/drum axle. The original winch parts were castings for the major components.
 
Here is a photo of the winch at a museum, with a dredge frame behind it.
 

 
Here is a picture of the finished 2D drawing (the crank handles are still too long, I corrected this in the 3D SketchUp drawing), and a 3D projection, of an earlier version.
 

 

 
Why didn’t I just go from the 3D CAD to a 3D printed part? For the 3D CAD drawing, above, I had developed it using just proportions, and some guesses. A friend, then sent me some rough dimensions, and I redrew it. The 2D drawing is of this final version.
 
I decided to go directly from this drawing to SketchUp, a dedicated 3D solid CAD program.
 
There is a free version of SketchUp, that I used for the majority of the drafting. The only real function it lacks is the ability to import DXF files, a standard CADing file type. I have an earlier Pro version, that I used for importing my 2D drawing.
 
It also lacks some 3D solids Boolean functions, but these are not needed, you can do them yourself, it just takes a little more work. Parts you generated based on a drawing, which are generally “Extruded” from the 2D lines to give them height (You’ll see what I mean later), can’t be operated on by these functions anyway.
 
The free version of SketchUp, can however, import graphics files, so you could either use your CAD program to create a graphic, and import that, or just use it as a reference when creating the parts in SketchUp.
 
SketchUp has the ability to import “Extensions”, additional mini programs, to add functionality. I used several of them, and will list them later.
 
For now here is the finished SketchUp drawing.
 

 
This is the 1/32nd scale version, I had to  modify the parts for 1/64th scale, to meet the minimum wall thicknesses the 3D printing company required. In this scale, I will be using metal rods for the axle and support rods tying the legs together.
 
I’m creating both 1/32 and 1/64 scale parts for 2 different models. The 1/64th scale winches are for my Pyro Oyster Dredge model, which is a fairly good model of the skipjack “Carrie Price”. The 1/32nd ones are for a planed future scratch build of the same boat. I also need a set of 1/28th scale winches for my Midwest Skipjack. The 1/28th scale parts will be a simple scale up of the 1/32 drawing, no modifications needed.
 
The company I used for the printing was Shapeways. There are others out there, but I choose Shapeways as they specializes in serving modelers. They also have an online file/drawing checking system to find any problems with your drawings, before you try to have them printed.
 
Below is a picture of the printed 1/32nd scale parts.
 

 

 
I stuck the crank handles into foam to hold them, hence the unpainted tips. The gear is 5/32” in diameter, and has 18 teeth. The teeth printed out sharply.
 
3D printing can give you quite nice detail. I don’t yet have any pictures of the 1/64th scale parts, I have not primed them yet, and without this they are hard to see even under magnification, but I can distinctly feel the gear teeth with my figure nail.

Part 01
 
Please forgive me for any typos.
This log will be my journey from a 2D drawing to producing (well having printed), a 3D model.
 
The subject model is a Hand Cranked Oyster Dredge Winch. These were used on Chesapeake Bay oyster dredges, before the advent of gas engine driven winches. The winches are used to pull in the dredge after it has scraped the oysters from the oyster bed.
 
The original winch was about 36 inches high at the crank/drum axle. The original winch parts were castings for the major components.
 
Here is a photo of the winch at a museum, with a dredge frame behind it.
 

 
Here is a picture of the finished 2D drawing (the crank handles are still too long, I corrected this in the 3D SketchUp drawing), and a 3D projection, of an earlier version.
 

 

 
Why didn’t I just go from the 3D CAD to a 3D printed part? For the 3D CAD drawing, above, I had developed it using just proportions, and some guesses. A friend, then sent me some rough dimensions, and I redrew it. The 2D drawing is of this final version.
 
I decided to go directly from this drawing to SketchUp, a dedicated 3D solid CAD program.
 
There is a free version of SketchUp, that I used for the majority of the drafting. The only real function it lacks is the ability to import DXF files, a standard CADing file type. I have an earlier Pro version, that I used for importing my 2D drawing.
 
It also lacks some 3D solids Boolean functions, but these are not needed, you can do them yourself, it just takes a little more work. Parts you generated based on a drawing, which are generally “Extruded” from the 2D lines to give them height (You’ll see what I mean later), can’t be operated on by these functions anyway.
 
The free version of SketchUp, can however, import graphics files, so you could either use your CAD program to create a graphic, and import that, or just use it as a reference when creating the parts in SketchUp.
 
SketchUp has the ability to import “Extensions”, additional mini programs, to add functionality. I used several of them, and will list them later.
 
For now here is the finished SketchUp drawing.
 

 
This is the 1/32nd scale version, I had to  modify the parts for 1/64th scale, to meet the minimum wall thicknesses the 3D printing company required. In this scale, I will be using metal rods for the axle and support rods tying the legs together.
 
I’m creating both 1/32 and 1/64 scale parts for 2 different models. The 1/64th scale winches are for my Pyro Oyster Dredge model, which is a fairly good model of the skipjack “Carrie Price”. The 1/32nd ones are for a planed future scratch build of the same boat. I also need a set of 1/28th scale winches for my Midwest Skipjack. The 1/28th scale parts will be a simple scale up of the 1/32 drawing, no modifications needed.
 
The company I used for the printing was Shapeways. There are others out there, but I choose Shapeways as they specializes in serving modelers. They also have an online file/drawing checking system to find any problems with your drawings, before you try to have them printed.
 
Below is a picture of the printed 1/32nd scale parts.
 

 

 
I stuck the crank handles into foam to hold them, hence the unpainted tips. The gear is 5/32” in diameter, and has 18 teeth. The teeth printed out sharply.
 
3D printing can give you quite nice detail. I don’t yet have any pictures of the 1/64th scale parts, I have not primed them yet, and without this they are hard to see even under magnification, but I can distinctly feel the gear teeth with my figure nail.

I want to at least test assemble, one, before making it public. I ordered 2 sets of cheap 61-80 number drill bits, to use as axles and support rods. The frames are coming along.
 
I am also starting a log of the 2D drawing to 3D printed parts process.

Part 01
 
Please forgive me for any typos.
This log will be my journey from a 2D drawing to producing (well having printed), a 3D model.
 
The subject model is a Hand Cranked Oyster Dredge Winch. These were used on Chesapeake Bay oyster dredges, before the advent of gas engine driven winches. The winches are used to pull in the dredge after it has scraped the oysters from the oyster bed.
 
The original winch was about 36 inches high at the crank/drum axle. The original winch parts were castings for the major components.
 
Here is a photo of the winch at a museum, with a dredge frame behind it.
 

 
Here is a picture of the finished 2D drawing (the crank handles are still too long, I corrected this in the 3D SketchUp drawing), and a 3D projection, of an earlier version.
 

 

 
Why didn’t I just go from the 3D CAD to a 3D printed part? For the 3D CAD drawing, above, I had developed it using just proportions, and some guesses. A friend, then sent me some rough dimensions, and I redrew it. The 2D drawing is of this final version.
 
I decided to go directly from this drawing to SketchUp, a dedicated 3D solid CAD program.
 
There is a free version of SketchUp, that I used for the majority of the drafting. The only real function it lacks is the ability to import DXF files, a standard CADing file type. I have an earlier Pro version, that I used for importing my 2D drawing.
 
It also lacks some 3D solids Boolean functions, but these are not needed, you can do them yourself, it just takes a little more work. Parts you generated based on a drawing, which are generally “Extruded” from the 2D lines to give them height (You’ll see what I mean later), can’t be operated on by these functions anyway.
 
The free version of SketchUp, can however, import graphics files, so you could either use your CAD program to create a graphic, and import that, or just use it as a reference when creating the parts in SketchUp.
 
SketchUp has the ability to import “Extensions”, additional mini programs, to add functionality. I used several of them, and will list them later.
 
For now here is the finished SketchUp drawing.
 

 
This is the 1/32nd scale version, I had to  modify the parts for 1/64th scale, to meet the minimum wall thicknesses the 3D printing company required. In this scale, I will be using metal rods for the axle and support rods tying the legs together.
 
I’m creating both 1/32 and 1/64 scale parts for 2 different models. The 1/64th scale winches are for my Pyro Oyster Dredge model, which is a fairly good model of the skipjack “Carrie Price”. The 1/32nd ones are for a planed future scratch build of the same boat. I also need a set of 1/28th scale winches for my Midwest Skipjack. The 1/28th scale parts will be a simple scale up of the 1/32 drawing, no modifications needed.
 
The company I used for the printing was Shapeways. There are others out there, but I choose Shapeways as they specializes in serving modelers. They also have an online file/drawing checking system to find any problems with your drawings, before you try to have them printed.
 
Below is a picture of the printed 1/32nd scale parts.
 

 

 
I stuck the crank handles into foam to hold them, hence the unpainted tips. The gear is 5/32” in diameter, and has 18 teeth. The teeth printed out sharply.
 
3D printing can give you quite nice detail. I don’t yet have any pictures of the 1/64th scale parts, I have not primed them yet, and without this they are hard to see even under magnification, but I can distinctly feel the gear teeth with my figure nail.

I started the log, it is called:
 
"Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial"

You guys have me scared.  I have not seen my lathe for a long time  My sister packed it so I know it is around someplace.  I wonder how bad it has gotten.  I used to use a good paste wax used for cars.
David B

Yep, silicone sprays are death to fine finishes in the shop environment.  The silicone "dust" gets into the air and settles on things.  Then it transfers to the finish surfaces and coatings (particularly varnish) will form "fisheyes" wherever they come in contact with the slightest bit of silicone.  (It seems to affect the surface tension of the coating material.)  Just don't go there!

When I am done with the 3D printed parts for the hand crank winch and dredge frame, I will make them public. You may be interested in the winch for your earlier version, and the frame for both.

When I am done with the 3D printed parts for the hand crank winch and dredge frame, I will make them public. You may be interested in the winch for your earlier version, and the frame for both.

When I am done with the 3D printed parts for the hand crank winch and dredge frame, I will make them public. You may be interested in the winch for your earlier version, and the frame for both.