thibaultron

As the hull is made from plywood, all the hull sections would be runs of curved (lenghtwise), but flat (cross) sections. You could draw bulkheads using the supplied info, as all the hull sections would be flat between the lines (as is the one section shown. A model could be made from these lines, but if you are looking to make a full sized boat, you will need better plans.

This reminds me of the USS Monitor. She was rediscovered, I believe in the 70s, upside down on the ocean bottom, mostly intact. Then the government experts chimed in. The location was too exposed to shipping , the currents were too strong, the wreck too fragile! two decades later, all that was left was the iron work, and they only recovered the turret, engines, and some of the plate, the wood they were so concerned with preserving had fallen apart, anyway. They could have at least done extensive photo work.

Mustafa,
 
Thinking that you might not be able to run DELFTship, I created the nine stations you would need to hand draft the plywood planks in my 2D program. This is what I came up with:
 

A couple of issues are evident. The main problem is that the body plan is not consistent with the profile and plan views. So you will be able to use that view only for general reference. I think you can get all the important details from the other views. Also, the image is slightly tilted (less than half a degree), but that can be enough to throw off some dimensions. I corrected the tilt in this image.
 
Even with a lower-resolution background image, you should be able to adjust the the chines to create fair edges for your plywood planks. If you view the surfaces using the Developable tool——you should be able to adjust the crease edges to create a completely fair surface.
What you are looking for is a solid green color indicating the surface curves in only one direction or is perfectly flat. This means you can cut the plank out of a flat piece of plywood stock. Usually the program will show red shading near the edges, especially if the edges themselves curve in more than one direction. This is how my brigantine's cylindrical transom looks because of this effect:
 
 
As far as sizing the background images and other considerations for starting a DELFTship project, see my tutorial available at this page here in this forum.
 
Again, contact me if you need some assistance getting started.
 
Cheers!
 
Terry

Roger , Terry , I have only 56KB size jpeg of the boat, boat is 4 meters long and my jpeg is A5 sized. How much should I enlarge the image for manual handmade job ?

Terry, I have linux groovy ubuntu and I installed wine 6.0 to support the exe files. After 20 minutes work , I could start to work with DELFTship free.
I cut the top image as top and side and uploaded to software as they are. Now I can see two images in 3D perspective. Now I have to align them correctly for each other. I am not sure how , I have to watch more videos

Lovely blocks.  The char doesn't seem to be that bad and as you say a dip in stain or ink takes care of the problem.

I have some great ebony stain sooooo
 

Would the vignette involve a couple of nuns stealing the distributor cap and wires?

In most shops, the front pully shroud would be removed to facilitate speed changes off the front pully rather than the rear one.... (one changed speeds by pushing down on the belt while turning the pully forcing the belt to jump to the next lower pully on the rear then pulling the belt while holding down to force the belt to the next larger pully on the front... you could change speeds in seconds this way without messing with the shroud...)
 
Excellent rendition of a must have shop tool....
 
Well Done!!!! 

Okay...  I am giving up on this hobby... 😞
 
That is simply amazing. I am so glad to not work at 1/87th scale..... Your work is just incredible.
 
Yves

Returning Hiltz to Luft-Stalag III after his escape to find out what was behind the tree line.....

Would the vignette involve a couple of nuns stealing the distributor cap and wires?

Thanks Edward...glad you're aboard!

Ooh! sounds intriguing 🙂 whatever it is is sure to be good

I get it...I had not read your post on the Prinz Eugen until now. 😄

Can I take it on the Autobahn? High speed cars and I go waaay back. I promise I won't make it take off.

In your other build (you have on hold pending a deck and bits)   I asked what you will be doing now?    - and I found out this mate.
 
OC.

I have a vignette planned for this car.

Welcome aboard Ken. Come get behind the wheel and sit a spell. 🙂 

My question is now answered.
 
OC.

Craig, I'm in. Will be interesting for the finishing of this staff car.

Engine under construction.
 

While I wait on a parts order for Prinz Eugen, going to begin construction of the Tourenwagen.
 

The issue with this technique  for making blocks is all the char.   You cant throw them in a block tumbler to clean it all off.  That would destroy the shape of them.  This is quicker than how I make my regular blocks and the shape is more consistent.   But once you over tumble them to remove the char they look awful.  Even  if made from boxwood.   So this is a great technique however for those who want to stain their blocks and even ebonize them.   Then you dont have to tumble them at all.   Those fancy Ebony blocks you see for sale are so expensive.  But you can have some just as nice if you dip these sticks in Ebony stain or black ink and let them dry.   They polish up beautifully.
 
 

Kind of...but its a bit hard to explain.  The thickness also changes.  Like I said its pretty advanced.  It would take a few pages to explain and only those with laser cutters would know what I was talking about.   The blocks are 3/16" wide and 5/32" wide.  Single blocks are the same 3/16" width but only about 3/32" thick.  So its more elaborate than just flipping and registering. Lots of jigs but once set up you can bang out a ton of them quickly.