Bindy

Hi all
 
I did have a problem with the name plate.
 
After getting it back from the engravers I thought it looked a bit plain so I put some tassels on the end of it, it looked ok but I was still not happy with it.
 
A friend Visi, said insert the plate into a wooden frame but it was too late as the name plate was glued to the stand but thank you Visi for that.
 
I then asked a very dear friend of mine Sammy what she would do, she is an arts and crafts expert .
Sammy said I think you should incorporate some part of the ship, that made a lot of sense to me.
 
The only thing I could think of was the brass strips that go round most of the SoS..
 
This is what I came up with thanks to Sammy.
 
God brass is so hard to get the joint correct but this is the best I can do.
 
Denis.

Hi Mobbsie,
 
I have been working on the tiny bits and I am down to the sail and rigging.  I will spend a little quality time with my daughter today while she sews the sail for me.  Anyway, I am almost finished and will have an update soon.  
 
Your timing is perfect.  I noticed Grant's comment about starting a group build of the Bomb Vessel Granado cross section with you and I asked if I could join in.  If it's alright with you too I am in!  
 
I have been searching for my own entry into the "dark side" and this looks like a great place to start and having a couple of mates to work along with engenders confidence.  
 
Talk to you soon.

Thank you Mark, Michael and Kevin .
 
Bowsprit
 
The Bowsprit is tapered like the lower masts, that is it narrows inboard from the Knightheads. It has a tapered tenon which fits into the step in the support in the forecastle :
 

 
The forward end has two flat sections for the Bees. These sections are offset from each other :
 

 
Some views showing the bowsprit fitted into the step :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you Mark, Geoff, John, Allan, Nils, Grant and Ed - much appreciated.
 
 
Geoff, the idea was to give other builders another option for very small sheaves .
 
Thank you Ed. You were one of those responsible for me "lifting my game" .
 
Cheek Blocks
 
The Fore and Main masts have a pair of double cheek blocks in the Topmast Head. I cut these on the table saw from English Box. They are fitted with 0.6mm thick by 2.4mm diameter sheaves :
 

 

 
  Danny

I taped all of the decorative metal pieces on the starboard side to get a run on the hull. It took much jugling to get all of them in the proper locations and required a lot of measuring from plan sheets 2 and 17. I then drew a line along the bottom edge from stern to bow and removed the pieces. This line deliniates the top border of the second finish layer of planking. I will now do the same to the port side.
 
Vince P.

Working on and finishing the last deck, the poop deck. This was by far the most difficult part of the build so far. Unlike all of the other decks that are supported by the bulkhead frames, this deck has no real support. The kit comes with 2 small pieces of plywood made from the same wood as the false decks. These are to be glued in a vertical position on the upper quarterdeck to support the poop. That to me was not a satisfactory option, as it offered little support to the deck.
I constructed a bulkhead for the aft end and side supports to link the forward metal bulkhead and aft bulkhead . When I planked the hull at the aft end at the level of the upper quarterdeck and above, I should have extended the planks past the last hull bulkhead by at about 100mm. I cut them off flush with the last bulkhead, which meant I had to extend them aft to support the poop that hangs over the aft edge of the upper quarterdeck for most of its length. Oh well, you live and learn.
The exact horizontal location of the deck, its height from the upper quarterdeck below, the vertical slope, and the camber all required considerable measurements between plan sheets 2 and 17. These sheets do not exactly agree, so a compromise had to be made, and I hope I guessed correctly.
The false deck and the metal forward bulkhead had to be modified considerably in length, height, and shape. Once the false deck was placed on the frame, it had to be bent considerably at both ends to provide the heavy camber and required some serious clamping.
 
Also on another note: If you are planning on using the larger dimensions for the deck gratings as the plans show and not the smaller sizes as per the cutouts on the decks, you will not have enough grating pieces. There are enough to do the decks, but not to do the quarterdeck overhang and the heads at the bow. More will have to be aquired.
 
Next up is to prepare the hull for the finish layer of second planking. Since the finish layer is only going up to the bottom edge of the metal hull decorations from bow to stern, all of the pieces have to be placed temporarily in their exact locations to mark the upper boundary for the planking layer.
 
Vince P.

Spanker boom and gaff and spanker sail are on also a few ropes.
 
Now I can move to the main mast and make the yards  and all that stuff.
Another update can take a while so enjoy this one ( at least I will    )
 
Sjors
 
 

One of the universal modelers law: as pieces ar smaller, there will be more of them
 

Hello friends.
Iron construction of the handrail mounted.
Karl   
 
 
T e i l    52

I didn't like the metal jaws supplied with the kit so like a lot of other parts I cast them aside & make them a little better. I glued several thin pieces of wood together to the right thickness. Shaped them up & glued & pined them on the Foremast Gaff, Main mast Gaff & Boom. Added some paint & added the blocks.
 
I will start the standing rigging soon. Sails have to be made soon too. This will most likely be slow, my illness is making everything more difficult for me & things are taking longer than they were.
 

Whence last we left our Hero, he was searching for alchemical suppliers in order to acquire a blackening agent for metal pieces.  The answer came whilst searching thru Dan Vadas’ HMS Vulture build and learning that he uses Liver of Sulphur to blacken metal.
Further, this stuff was easy to purchase in Oz (just check out OverTheRainbow here) !!
 

 
“Verily doth this stuff stinketh unto thee highest heavens,” proclaimed CaptainSteve.

“But within a matter of minutes, me mast partners be suitably blackened !!”
 


 
Thus, finally, Our Hero couldst moveth onwards and upwards, and the installation of bench thwarts didst take place.
 



 
“Noteth that me thwarts they be positioned ‘neath the thwart-riser,” CaptainSteve didst helpfully pointeth out.  “’Twas not the way of the Plans, but methinks this doth looketh better,” he explained.
With the thwarts in place, our Hero didst use a strip of scrap to fashion some thwart-knees …
 

 
“There be more ‘ere than whats me will be needin’,” said CaptainSteve.
 

 
For now, these just be dry-fitted for demonstration purposes. What your Captain now wishes to know is … how shouldst these be coloured ??
They currently be the pale-white of untreated pine. On the one hand, I couldst stain ‘em the same colouring as the thwarts and risers. Probably best, what with this being just a work-boat …
But, I be sorely tempted to colour them the same blue-grey as was used to paint the interior o’ me Launch. ‘Twouldst make for a nice contrast, methinks.
What sayeth the Horde ??

100 pages ???? Who could believe when I started log? Or I just like to write about necessary and unnecessary things

Skriboman ...

And main part of log is (I am still a bit shamed) making mess and cleaning mess, and making mess again ... and in same circle

I hope that I would be able to show bigger progress in next 100 pages

No work today ... I was at Assembly of the Association of Princess dance hip-hop club to help some heads to fly out and to help them to put their way to the legal highway ... I must help her even I think she has no need to be director and chairman of club ...

I'm not dead yet- update coming soon!

Hi
 
Having to slow up a bit on the build as work and life is getting more hectic. I have finished the basic hatches for the first false deck. The ladders and sliding hatches will be attached once I have carried out the first planking. I went for sliding hatches instead of the more open stairs shown in the plans by Lavery and Hunt as I had seen this arrangement in the A/L version.
 
This decision was primarily driven by not wanting to have to remove too much of the bulkhead to create a visible false deck. This would have been relatively large to cover the space that would have been exposed to view. If this had been done I would have had to reinforce the framing a lot to prevent warping and twisting. As I progress with this build I am guessing could become an issue and can see a slight twist that I will have to correct when I do the first planking.
 
So on to the first planking which is something I always manage to get wrong so I had better stock up on wood putty and to spare any embarrassment will only post another entry when it is done and my nerves have settled down.

Another step in the proces - sails on the main mast are ready.
 
(and once again one of my rather bad pictures):
 
 

Hello again! Well, maybe I´ll get more updates as I enter the final laps. Here is the hole fix over the cabin and the switch for my cabin´s lighting. I made a step by step on the fixing/lighting as I´m proud to have done it. I know it´s not the greatest of executions or the best mechanism I could´ve used, but those hours spent on science fairs at school weren´t wasted. :D
 

First picture shows the led with a circuit board - I used the led from a garden beacon with a timer, so the battery wouldn´t be consumed when I forgot to turn it off.
 

This is my remade lantern - first version I used tin and painted paper. Replaced the painted paper for silk and better painted the tin frame.
 

Attached the lantern to the circuit board.
 

Cut two 2mm copper stripes from a copper foil and soldered them to the battery box.
 

Cut another 2mm copper stripes and soldered them to the circuit board.
 

Fixed the circuit board on its place (there was a hole for the lantern to be placed in the cabin) and glued the copper stripes parallel - that way the battery box could be placed and turned into the switch.
 

 

After the eletronics were placed, used the same wood for deck planking to close the hole. Part of the stripes were left for the switch.
 

Hole closed, planking aged and battery box/switch placed - ligths on. I thought on replacing all the planks so that trapdoor look wouldn´t be there, but kinda liked the idea. Maybe I´ll fix some holder for it.
 
Next pictures shows the lighting effect.
 

 

 

 
Now, all for the rigging!!!!!

I like the lights too. What a "bright" idea!

Now the Royal Caroline is safe in the showroom among my other ships:
 

 
Best regards
Doris
 

Hello, dear friends!
Thank you very much for your kind words and support. I appreciate all your comments a lot. I have to apologize you, I am writing so late, but I have a lot of problems mainly at work and also many duties, so I did not visit internet almost at all and unfortunately have no time for building models.
I am searching for a new and better job, so it is quite difficult time now for me, cause there are a lot of unemployed people in our country.
I believe, things will go better next months and it will be possible to continue with modelling in winter. I am going to share my work with you and looking forward to continuing.
 
Have a great time and take care
Doris
 
Here are some of last pics from the process, I have made in august.
 

The pins are hand made.
 
 

Thank you for a tip Captain. Maybe I am stuborn, but to me it seems that working with tape demands ideal lines, which are not present at all parts of Her hull, particulary by the rails. And another big question raised to me: How to put tape on a rail 1,5x1,5 mm before painting black. And if I must correct mistakes caused by above mentioned reasons, I have to apply same technique I am using now. And having in mind all this, only question of patience left.
 
Or I just have to discover hot water every time

She is quite tonight, and I was working without pressure



Makeup continues



After a hour and a half stearing throught magnifier, moved to the place where rudder enter into stern. There is some kind of ring there





And that is goal to make. On plans it can not be seen, but on pictures it seem that outside of rudder on that place is little rounded on outside edges, so, let us begin. Actualy, I decided to round them a bit to assume this "ring" to be small enough and in scale






It must be done by few steps waiting for putty to dry

Oh yes, I am delighted with close-up tool

Working on a white square longitudinal rail.

It is not no easy to get straight line between white and black surface. Black and white color gives maximum contrast, and mistake less than 0,5mm are very visible.

But, this is down side of white rail, invisible after rotating model, which means that it is good space to practice precise before I reach upper border beteeen white and black

I do agree with the majority, especially Grants psychological evaluation and practical analysis as well as Greg's recipe.  All I can say is that it brings a smile to my face and it has improved my accuracy.          What's not to like.

The perfect recipe for a workshop for scratch or semi-scratch builders:
 
1 part Byrnes table saw
1 part Byrnes thickness sander
1 part Byrnes disk sander
 
After simmering, add in 1 part Sherline Mill and 1 part Proxxon planer
Finish with Sherline lathe and mini drill press
 
The above recipe will require a large portion of lettuce (green) but the finished product should last a lifetime

Okay Boyd, since you asked, you need one! And no, you can't live without one. There now, feel better?
 
Yes there are others that would possibly do the job, but the difference is, the Byrnes saw is an absolute joy to use. It will bring a smile to your face every time you use it. And after all, don't we do this hobby for enjoyment? It will certainly come into its own when you start scratch building, but even kit bashing will give it a serious workout. If you're looking for it to "pay for itself", it will do that if you mill your own lumber to size - eg buy sheet stock from Hobbymill and rip it down to size. BUT, you don't buy one of these works of engineering art to pay for itself. You buy one because you can! And for the sheer enjoyment of using it.
 
So, have you placed your order yet?
 
Oh, and don't forget to order the Byrnes Disc Sander at the same time. That brings almost as big a smile to my face, and probably gets used even more frequently than the saw.
 
Let us all know when you've pulled the trigger on this/these. :)