Cap'n Rat Fink
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Hello all, I gave my whaleboat kit to a friend of mine to try and giver it a go. Once done he gave me what he had left and I decided to scratch build one out of basswood and other woods. I started the build a long while ago. But really got busy in life, and with this virus thing going on and being told to stay home else face getting pulled over and fined up to 1000.00 dollars. So having sometime with the models again. Jeezz! The building jig is a practicum in itself... -
Hi Guys thanks for stopping by!!! Ok it's almost 2 years since I posted anything, anything at all. So During that time I was taking pic's and saved them to a flash drive. But now I am having trouble finding that flash drive. Worst case scenario I retake some pic's of what my model looks like now but not very detailed on the steps I took. But these steps will not help you with the basic construction of this model. With information provided from Dave of a wood supplier I decided to add extra detail to MY Hannah! The quarter deck was installed and the model is out of the jig. So it was going to be a bear to add my idea of a cabin deck. There is virtually nothing on the how the Hannah looked like. Other then she weight 78 tons. About 5 tons lighter then the Halifax. Which I decided would help me with the extra detail. Plus I have the info from Hahn and Chappelle research on all 5 Marblehead schooners. The bow section was the real pain because mostly it had to be done with tweezers. As for knees and other bits below deck I omitted because it was next to impossible for me to do them because I had the quarter deck in and I wasn't going to take it apart. What I added will look like a ship under construction, for example the interior hull planking. Because I new with the Q. deck in place it would be difficult as I neared the underside of the Q. deck to fit those planks properly. So probably going to display the model like it was under construction when done. Remember I have nothing to refer to to accomplish the lower portion of Hannah. I used Halifax pictures and info in books. But Halifax is bigger and outfitted differently. I had to make sure the bulge pumps weren't going to run into a wall or whatever I decide on how to arrange the lower level. Same for the windlass and the ships masts. I had to consider all that. All of this has been completed. I had a lot of fun too. I am ready to plank the hull and the deck. I am thinking on how to do this, and provide enough peep holes so anyone can see the below deck details. This has always been a pet peeve of mine about POF! All that work and you plank over it. So I am hoping to find my flash drive or I will be taking new pictures from there and head into the rest of the build.
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Hello All, Before I get started on my modeling updates. I would like to say me and my family offer our prayers to you all who are in the mist of fighting this horrible Pandemic. I pray everyday that the hardest hit areas Italy and Europe get a handle on this virus. I hope that being apart of the human race that we come together to beat this virus down and out of our lives. I believe we can do great things if we band together and fight this. I live in California, USA. We have received orders to stay at home and not wonder outside into the city. Me and my wife have elderly parents in their 80's n 90's and we are trying to help them as much as possible, but also trying to practice social distancing. So God Bless to you all and we as a human race will beat this thing!!! So being in lock-down and can't really go any where I have had even more time now for my models. So I will be updating here on the Hannah and on my New Bedford Whale Boat log. My wives n my parents require a lot of assistance, and mine are both wheel chair bound. We have 3 grandkids and as I like to refer to them as my two boys and my granddaughter.My boys are both Autistic so so our lives are filled with assisting our parents and our boys. Just in case you wanted to know where I have been and why I don't come around hardly ever anymore. But i do still work on models and woodworking in general. So I will post soon so you know I'm still at it.
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I was planning on stopping on the Hannah a bit after I completed the Poop Deck framing. I wanted to start another scratch build. I have a buddy who wanted to build a model boat so i gave him one of my kits. He is a good model builder, but never made a boat. I gave him the kit under the condition I got the box , book, and plans back unscathed. So he made copies and wrote all over his and cut out portions out to do his build. He did a great job. So I am going to start making the build board will I hopefully get my questions answered on the Hannah. here the book.
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Hi Mark! That question does not even surprise a bit. I offend wondered myself. Thanks for stopping by Buddy! You will find my answer some what down below. Last of the deck framing is done, with the completion of the last ledging and the breast hook combination at the bow. Now for the poop deck framing. For the stantions I first make small cuts into each frame with my rotary tool. it makes it easier then starting with an exacto knife. the rest of the cut is done with an exacto saw blade. Then finished up with manicure files. Now I was going to continue on with the Poop Deck. But Mark Taylor presented a question to me. Did the Hannah have a Orlop deck? I offend wondered about this. Did Hahn omit this from his model for the simple reason he was construction a model simplified for the first time POF model builder? I don't know. I hope Dave Stevens takes a look here on my build log and maybe answer my question here. Hahns book does stated the Hannah was basicly build from examples from the Halifax back in 1775 I think. I still have access to the hull interior, so I am tempted to do this if I can get clarification on the interior of the hull. I also wondered about hanging knees and where would they be located at and the lodging knees. The ships smoke stack....there has to be a lower deck where the stove is located. Am I correct about that??? IF ANYONE CAN HELP ME WITH THESE QUESTIONS PLEASE CHIME IN. BECAUSE THAT WOULD BE A LOT MORE FUN WITH THIS MODEL!!! I added a picture of the Halifax to help with these questions. I have the Poop Deck ready to go. But going to wait a little bit to see if I get any answers to my questions
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Al, Ken, and Denis, Thanks for stopping by and your kind remarks! I try to give as much info of my building process as I can. So if others have questions I had hoped with my detailed explanations I could answer some of their questions. When I read some builds that have very good details it helps me a lot. There are builds that really great work but not much explanation how did it and I wish they had. The practicum is very good. But I treat any practicum like the "PIRATES CODE". It's more like guide lines. I go by what it says and at times I go with what feels right for me to get it done. The big difficulty with this kit is the jig. The jig is nice, but once you get to a certain point it has to go. Hahn's jig the model is left in during the planking. I had to remove it because i could not put the Wales on. Most of the hull and the deck will be planked. Thanks for stopping by Mario
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Thanks Guys for your kind remarks... Hello All, trying to recoup from knee surgery and the long recovery ahead. So to take my mind off of the pain I decided to try to get back to my model. So before I start framing the quarter deck I added the Wales to strengthen the hull frames. I followed hahns advice. The Wales being 3/32nds of an inch thick I ripped two strips of ebony and one of cherry. I laminated all 3 together with regular white glue and clamped them to one of my drinking glass to form the curve at the bow. Bending a solid piece of ebony at 3/32nd's wood of been a bear. I took a basswood stripe of 3/32 and clamped it to the hull after I transferred the locations measurements from the plans. The basswood was for practice and once in place I took some tape to mark the full strake. Once I was done I knew exactly where I was going to place the Wales. I added two strakes of boxwood above the Wales also. I did this to help me verify that i placed the deck clamp in the correct loactions. because once the deck beams and ledges and the 1/16th thick deck planking was in place, my third boxwood strake wood line up perfectly. I did this because the third strake is where the scubbers reside. I did a lot of measuring and re-measuring and transferring those measurements and re-checking again and again. Remember the jig I used from the kit had to be removed to do all this. Plus the rest of the practicum was with the hahn upside down jig. I doing this in no jig at all from here out. PLUS I AM FIRST TIMER ON POF WITH THIS MUCH DETAIL. I did not mind because it help me from concentrating too my on my knee. I was really getting into it. I also cut out the stantions. I had to completely cut out the howes timbers and the catheads. The laser cut frames from the kit were too short. So I added a piece and pegged it to the existing frame. My apologies with not having enough pictures to show all this, because of my hurting leg. Not in the picture taking mood. Advice blow up your knee like I did and it won't hurt so damn much! HAHAAHA!!! As I continue on I sure my plan comes together and my measuring is spot on or so close that I'm happy with it.
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HELLO ALL, BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE. SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM. THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION. THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING. THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!
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Real Cool Mark, I like how you added the "don't mess with me attitude to your ship".
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Better late then never, But the last time I was here you were building Pritt. She came out beautiful. Congrats John.
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Hi Hakan, Looking forward to your second try, but from what I see she's gonna look really nice. Your planking skills are v VERY good.
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Hi John Been gone a long while finally read thru your whole log here to catch up. Love the history of your chosen projects. A nice model in the works.
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The fairing of the starboard side transom went without a hitch. They look rough. But so does the rest of the hull. The final fairing will be done when I pull the model from the building jig. I left a lot of material on the first set of transoms, being my first time doing this process I wanted to make I was good with enough material. It went well so I went ahead and removed enough material to make the fairing a bit less time consuming. The tape was there to protect the sternpost from the rough fairing. Building this portion of the model did not seem to me to be very hard to do. Measuring and transferring those measurements from plans to material and rechecking payed off. The practicum for this part of the build was very informative.
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Nope Mark you not missing a thing. They are bigger. This is my first doing this. So I left more timber. Just did not want to screw up and have too little. The starboard I will shape them with less material as suggested in the practicum. Just covering my butt. Wood be a bear to have to remove them if not enough material. Practicum suggest this shape will I will do on starboard... Off course the wider side towards the deadwood.
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Looking good Mark, Little stuff. Your looking at a bigger boat next time! Admiral permitting. WOW! YOU HAVE SOMETHING IN COMMON WITH THIS GUY.haha
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Ok I am in the process of adding the other 4 transoms. I took all measurements from Hahns plans. All pieces are 1/8" in thickness including the basswood spacers. You will see pictures of the plans. To bar any issues from showing this online with all this copy rights thing going on, the pictures of the plans were taken at an angle to distort them a bit. If anybody sees that I have an issue with my transoms please tell me because I am learning. I am following Bob's practicum. Which has been very helpful. Learning a lot here!
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Thanks Denis and enjoy your snow...! Well I'm trying to get back to my model, But here in California it is just a plain pain in the butt dealing with disability insurance. But back to my build. I bought this kit a few years back. But I failed to purchase cherry for the rest of the build at that time. So I do have some cherry from another build left over, but the color between the two is just off. Which just bugs me. So since I am trying to do what i can internally before I pull the model from the jig, I decided to use basswood for the forward deck clamps. To save what I can of the cherry I got left. This won't be a problem because my plan is the plank the hull almost completely and the same for the deck. So this deck clamp won't be seen. I just like the look of these schooners. IMO they just look real good fully planked. So that is where I'm headed. Now this next pic you will see a redline. I am going to cut this portion of the jig out exposing the last can't frame and the stern. I have to add all the support and the other transoms to the stern, but I can't get to it unless I cut this portion of the jig out. Leaving the rest will protect the bow and the full frames while I am dealing with the stern. So thanks for stopping by
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I have decided to add whatever I could before removing model from building jig. Plus transfer whatever lines I could from the plans. I added the keelson, plus doing the hawse timber, down the road are the deck clamps, and maybe the deck beams and ledges. But I need to notch out the frames and the jig is in the way. So trying to figure that one out. As for the stern same thing jig is in the way to add the other transoms.
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Thanks Mark. Ok just about done with the fairing I can do with the jig in place. Unlike Hahns jig which leaves a lot of spare material at the top of the frames. I can't get to the tops of the frames without removing the jig. Since after chapter 5 all instruction is with Hahns upside down jig which gives you an advantage of working the interior and exterior. So I am going to do as much of the interior as I can before I remove the model from the jig. WELL THATS MY PLAN ANYWAY AND IT MAY CHANGE AS I GO ALONG!!!
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Thanks mark, John, Denis, Trying to catch up here. Just starting to read your new build log John. Hi Ben, From stern to bow. 14 1/2 inches. Bot sure with the bowsprit haven't gone that far as of yet. She's a little one. Hi Arthur! Ok I am thru chapter 5 which works with the building jig that comes with the kit. So I had to work up a plan for me to go on thru the completion of the model. Bob included all the other chapters with this kit to complete the model, but his course w/w Hahn's upside down building jig. The other clinch it Hahn's method leaves a bit of material on each and every frame. Pulling measurements from the plans the kits frames leave a whole lot less material on the frames. So I have to proceed with caution when I start fairing the hull and cutting the notches out on the frames. So i am going to alter the jig so I can do the major fairing with the hull still in the jig. But I will have to remove it to complete the fairing higher up on the frames. One other decision I have to make is there anything I can add to the interior of the hull before I remove it from the jig. I am not experience at all with Hahn's style of building models so I have think things out. Any advice would be nice.
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Well I have dealt with some of the going on's with the stern of the Hannah. Never have really done a POF of this nature before. So it's a learn as I go. Please if you see that I have done something incorrectly. Let me know. I am trying to learn these more complicated models. I had to bevel both ends and re-locate the outer slots to the wing transom for the outside frames. The bevel was for the WT to sit up against the deadwood
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