TBlack

You might try using wire for the handle and card for the blade

Love the fairing cap concept.  Definitely something I will steal for my next build.  

Once I shaped the and sanded the proper sheer it was time to add the fairing cap.   I did in fact sand the top of the sheer as Greg describes.  Either a side to side sanding with the stick posted in the last update or by holding the stick on one side as a pivot.  Then sanding on the opposite side with the stick moving it in an arch fore and aft.  
 
The fairing cap will now be added.  This serves two purposes and I discovered with the Winnie project that this is a great design element to help me when fairing inboard.
 
First it establishes a consistent width along the entire sheer.  It will be hard to screw that up as long as I dont sand into the strip.  The fairing cap is 5/32" wide.
 
In addition,  the fairing cap is glued to the top of each frame which really strengthens the hull.  There is no wiggle in any of the frames as you fair inboard or out.
 
There are 2 sections of fairing cap for the waist.   I added the forward piece first (#1)...then the aft section (#2).   These must be added first because a hance piece sits on top of the forward length.  We will add that later.  These are labeled #1 and #2 on the laser cut sheet.  When gluing these on the outside edge is flush with the outboard framing which should already be faired.  You can see below what remains inboard to be faired.  The only fairing I have done inboard up to this point is whatever I managed to get done progressively after raising a half dozen frames.  I had reached inside under those cross jigs to at least get rid of the heavy stuff.  But the cant frames are virtually untouched.
 
The qdeck fairing cap (#3) needs to be beveled on the aft end to sit flush against the transom.   The bow section of fairing cap is self explanatory.   Just make sure its flush with the outboard framing for all four of these pieces.   Then you will know exactly how much material you need to remove inboard.   
 


In this photo after the fairing cap was added,  the two hance pieces were added at the bow.  You can see how it sits on top of the waist fairing cap.  Also check out the framing plan for clarity.  Its at the break in the waist up to the fcastle sheer.   A scroll will be added much later after we finish planking everything.
 

I originally thought that I would need to wait until all the outboard planking was completed before I could fair inboard.  But the hull seems so strong with the fairing caps glued on so I just decided to go for it.
 
The gull has now been completely faired inboard...or about 98% there.   There are still some areas that will require some "noodling".  But I really wanted to get this done because it makes so much dust and its a pain in the butt.  I started with 60 grit sandpaper to get rid of the heavy steps from frame to frame.  Then I switched to 150 grit and then to 120 grit.  Remember when you are doing this NOT to reduce the fairing cap.  Its inevitable that you may hit it from time to time and you may remove the laser char but try and keep the width of the sheer as consistent as you can.   The fairing cap helps you do this.  Here is a picture after finishing up the inboard fairing.  Now I can return to the outboard planking with a much cleaner hull. Although I am compelled to add the keelson first just to make the inboard area even cleaner.   Its nice NOT to have to look at all that unkempt framing and laser char.  It cleaned up rather well dont you think?  
 

Gary, I've too much respect to yank your chain.
 
I shouldn't have said "This is what separates modelers from us hacks" I should have said, this is what separates the masters from us beginners, my sincerest apologies to anyone that I may have offended.
 
 To me, the definition of a master modeler is one who can loft and then transfer that information into building a hull. I am in awe of modelers with that ability along with the joinery, metal working, carving, rigging, and painting skills all the while maintaining historical accuracy. It leaves me absolutely stunned.  The work becomes more than mere modeling, it becomes artistry, plain and simple. 
 
 When I stand at the bottom of the scaffolding and look up at the Michelangelos of model ship building it's easy for me to dismiss my work.
Any success I've had is owed to being a MSW member and having the opportunity to look over the shoulders of you my fellow members. 

Thanks, Roger
 
 

Ok, Keith and Mark - why are you guys yanking my chain?  I’ve been following both of you and your wonderful work for several years now and I haven’t seen any of this hacking you speak of. Your work is top notch.  You both are always kind, helpful and supportive to so many of us here at MSW, and a true credit to the forum.  And certainly not hacks.
 
Gary
 
 

Tom,
pictures are all there. Thanks. Harbor Freight? Probably not too expensive and doesn’t take up any work space!

Tom,
pictures are all there. Thanks. Harbor Freight? Probably not too expensive and doesn’t take up any work space!

Ciao, and thanks to all ❤️
 
 

You will spend all your time improving it!!!!

I do it mostly side to side. This keeps both sides parallel athwartships and prevents gouging on one side. It is essential that the tops of the frames are parallel or the plankshears (top rails) will cant in or out. Until I get very close to final dimension I usually pin one side of the sanding stick with my thumb and swivel sand the opposite side over a couple of inches. Then repeat in reverse.  Sneak up to the line with 120 grit then finish with 180 grit. You'll notice that the char is gone on Chucks forecastle and QD toptimbers and this is a pretty good indication that it is fair.

You can do it either way, honestly, but you actually want to work the sanding stick in the direction that goes with the grain of the wood. You go against the grain of the wood and the surface will look all scratched up.

Yes, dear Keith, photographs can be our boon or Bain!

Yes, dear Keith, photographs can be our boon or Bain!

Yes, dear Keith, photographs can be our boon or Bain!

Yes, dear Keith, photographs can be our boon or Bain!

Tom,
what kind of “pencil like hand engraving tool” are you using? BTW, the pictures didn't seem to come out on my computer. Am I alone?

Do you apply it side to side or longitudinally?

Yes, dear Keith, photographs can be our boon or Bain!

So I started on the whale boats. The plans suggested using what I call a “pancake” method. There are 7 layers that are to be glued together one on top of the other. Each layer’s outside contour is basically the waterlines of a half breadth view on a body plan. 

After making 7 copies I cut them out and rubber cemented them to a piece of 1/16” thick basswood. Note I only cut the outside contour at this point. 

Next I used a #4 scalpel to cut out the inside contour. Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture at this point. This was a big tedious but I only had to cut out the interior on 5 of the 7 boats.  Two of them will be stowed upside down on the boat bearer shelter. 
 
After all the interior contours were cut out I proceeded to use a band saw and cut all the outside contours as shown below.   The one on the right is the bottom layer which closes up the bottom. 

Next,  all of the layers except the bottom were glued together. The reason I left the bottom off was to allow easier access to the inside contour for shaping and sanding.

 All the high edges need to be knocked down and sanded so each layer is flush with the next. That is easier said than done 😜. I used a pencil like hand engraving tool to do all the rough work and then rolled up sand paper. I needed to use a bit of filler in a few spots but it all worked in the end. It was a bit like taking an Aztec pyramid and turning it it into an Egyptian style one 😁. Here is a pic of the inside contour smoothened. These surfaces will all be painted so any filler will not be seen. 

The bottom was the glued on and the outside contour was then shaped and sanded. 


Finally the ends were shaped and curved to the final hull configuration. 


Next I will put on the keel, top rail and the side rubs. Then eventually all the interior structures.  When I get to that point I will post more pics.  Right now I have 6 more boat hills to make.  
 
Tom

Yes, dear Keith, photographs can be our boon or Bain!

Well now I have all 3 masts set and shrouded with lots of little coils of rope (with little tags) hanging all over the place. Things are moving along somewhat smoothly, provided the little tags stay on. 😜😂. It looks like a nightmare with all the ropes coiled and hanging but I find it is much easier to Reece all the blocks before the masts are in place and then just uncoil each one as it gets tied to belaying pins and whatever is at the other end.  As I am sure you all know and heard, “Do as much as you can off the model”.  At least within reason. 


I think I will make a couple of whale boats to put on top of the boat bearer/shelter now as a change of pace.
 
I want to make sure I have everything done along the centerline of the deck and then work outward. That makes it a bit easier without having to reach around things to get at something in the middle. 
 
Tom
 

Yes, dear Keith, photographs can be our boon or Bain!

Chips at the edges of the strips can be easily avoided. To do this, you need to use a sharp tool and your caution.  
 
The main drawback, after the complexity, of the copper strip method is the difference in the thermal expansion coefficients of the materials.
In this case, there is a high risk of cracking and peeling of copper strips from the hull.

I agree.  Here you can see my long sanding stick.  Its about an inch wife and 15” long.  It has 120 grit sandpaper.  
 
I will create a smooth sheer line with it that marches the top of the template.
 
Then i will add the fairing cap.  Pictures of that to follow…
 

Maybe after I take Greg and David’s class this October?