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ChrisLBren

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Everything posted by ChrisLBren

  1. Hey Group, I found a new hardwood dealer in the Northwest Suburbs offering dimensioned Black Cherry with the hope of having a local source/easy access. Here are the results of two samples, the Pear lumber I currently own and Cherry sample sanded and finished with one coat of pure tung oil. The Cherry is pretty but much darker and figured - more appropriate for furniture than ship building in my opinion. I decided to order another flitch of Pear for 300 dollars and have my cabinet maker break it down into 1/2 inch billets for 100 dollars for the hours worth of work. I really don't want to resaw boards and worry about the dust and floor space of a larger 14 inch bandsaw - so I will probably go ahead and buy the 10 inch Grizzly or Jet which should be sufficient for my needs cutting 1 inch thick or less hardwood. Send me a PM if anyone is interested in the Hardwood Dealer here in Chicagoland. They also offer Walnut, Cherry and Hard Maple. Nice guys.
  2. Guys dont tell me this !!! I am very concerned about the accuracy of my parts once I raise the frames on my LGV. My frames and rising wood could have been much more accurate had I cut them out with my TAIG vs the Proxxon. Nice technique Mark - Ill have to use this tip.
  3. Simply amazing - one of the best aircraft models I've ever seen. Congrats
  4. Stay with it - good to hear they are sending you some additional parts. I too get frustrated with my builds - sometimes its good to walk away and get some perspective.
  5. Thanks for all of the replies - I will check out all of the recommendations. Merry Xmas to everyone. As far as the Bandsaw requirements I'm interested in ripping boards into 1/2 and 9/32 billets for a certain French Frigate in 1/36. Because of the amount of wood required (a monster at 5 feet 7 inches unrigged) - I want to be able to do this in house. I believe a good band saw in conjunction with my DeWalt Table saw should do the trick. The TAIG Mill is a dream machine to work with - much more accurate than the Proxxon MF70. Part of me wishes I could re do all of the keel and frame parts on the Big Belly with it. I want a Bandsaw of the same quality as the TAIG and Byrnes tools - you do get what you pay for. Best, Chris
  6. Hello Group, With the addition of my Taig Mill, Emco Unimat 3 as my metal lathe, I am thinking I need one more tool - a bandsaw to reduce lumber before final dimensioning with my Brynes tools. Thoughts please - ideally I would like to be able to reduce 1 inch thick board to dimensions needed for our hobby. My local cabinet maker is great - however I would like the ability to do this in house in my basement. Christmas is a great time to buy more tools Happy Holidays everyone !!!!
  7. This looks fantastic - I can't believe what some of you guys can do with plastic models. Awe inspiring !!!!
  8. Wow this will be fun to watch - I am building this ship in 1/36th and love the larger dimensions. At 1/24th will be incredible. There is currently a build log on the Ancre site for a build in 1/24. If you havent seen it - its worth checking out.
  9. Nice work !!!!! Also I noticed you have a Foredom - mine arrives tomorrow and hopefully will help with the stern parts !
  10. Probably the most difficult part to produce so far - Wing Transom. I used every tool in my shop (mill, all the sanders and chisels). I left off the dove tails in the rear of the part as it may make aligning the legs of the stern trickier later. They really aren't necessary for the structure and the risk of screwing up my third attempt at this part isn't worth it !
  11. Thanks Greg ! Yes I am - my schedule is grab some coffee and work 430am-630am while everyone else in the family is asleep (my workshop is in the basement which helps with the noise) I really treasure this time doing a little everyday and just enjoying the process to begin my day.
  12. Hi Mark, Or you could go with 1/36th and build the Amarante if you're not scared of some carving. Personally I love the larger scales and this is one of Gerard's best. It about 34 inches unmasted.
  13. Keel section is complete (and shortened a wee bit on plan sheet 4 - its one of the only errors in the Mono)- thanks to the Taig for the rabbet, and a lot of hand sanding. Next up the wing transom and tricky stern parts.
  14. Thanks Patrick ! And for all of the likes everyone.
  15. Good Morning ! The construction site is now completed. It is composed of a Melamine board 48 by 16 by 3/4 thick I liquid nailed to 1/1/4 Red Oak Stair Balusters. It is dead level. The rest of the structure is 3/4 MDF and 1/4 MDF for the upper platform with the usual 1/4 threaded rods. I abandoned both the 3/4 inch birch plywood board screwed into the same oak balusters - it was not as level - and a 3/4 thick MDF board glued to 3/4 square battens. I will use the 3/4 MDF as a moveable platform for the plans. My Taig milled arrived this week as well. I chose the Taig as I was able to purchase a refurbished unit with the same warranty as new for a discount to list. It comes stock to run at 10000rpm to cut wood with the upgraded motor. I love its weight as 80lbs and the x travels a full 12 inches. Its an amazing tool built with the same craftsmanship as my Byrnes machines. Most of the Sherline accessories will fit it. While not necessary to build this ship (I do love collecting tools though!) - it will certainly make the complicated and large structures of the bow and stern at this scale hopefully easier to realize. Its first task will be to cut the rabbets into the keel parts.
  16. Hey Group, I am currently building a 48 inch long by 16 inch wide build board for LGV. Both the 3/4 inch birch ply and 3/4 inch MDF are not dead flat. I am hoping that by screwing either board into 3 inch by 1 inch battens on the underside it will remain flat. Does one board over the other have an advantage as far as no future warpage ? Also it is my understanding that sinking screws into MDF may not be the best idea - I could be wrong here. Thanks
  17. Thanks so much - this is exactly what Ive been looking for. Im going to order it now.
  18. I have seen a few logs that have a tilting mount adapted for the MF70 and its vise. From my search on the web most tilting vises sold commercially are too high (3 and 1/2 inches is the lowest I have found) to work well with the MF70's range. So I am assuming most of these mounts are home made. I would want to purchase one and would be happy to pay for materials and labor for anyone who could build one of these of me. I am sure this item would be in demand by many other modelers on this site who own the MF70. Please feel free to PM or post. I do have a design already drawn up with specs. Thanks, Chris
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