ChrisLBren
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Thanks guys - I am re energized - the biggest challenge is trying to find time in the shop. With every attempt the parts are getting closer to spec - considering I bought a flitch of pear wood - a couple of wasted boards isnt a big deal in the overall picture ! Greg - hoping this Boxer lives a healthier life than my last one - I really did my homework vetting a good breeder this time. My other one was a cancer factory - but somehow made it to 8 years with a lot of vet bills ! -
Hey Group, I am back - this build is proving to be a challenge. I thought about a cross section ("slice" for my French friends) out of frustration - but after researching other build logs and being inspired - I am committed to building this ship fully rigged if its takes me 20 years. I am in love with her... My current status - I have wasted a pear board 2 inches by 24 learning to use my tools (spindle sander, all of the Jim Byrnes tools, Dewalt scroll saw and my Lie Neilsen chisels - sharpened this weekend) and here are my results. I am not completely satisfied and am probably on my way to wasting another board to get this right - (not to mention I will be working with ebony on the black parts above the waterline - so this assembly will be severed. Yes I am well aware of the challenges of working with Ebony - shes a tough mistress but nothing replicates her appearance). I do fantasize about building a kit at times - but the satisfaction of executing Boudriots plans flawlessly overwhelms those thoughts. Back to the workshop tomorrow morning....
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Looks great my friend - again looked thru your log this morning - so inspiring !
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Wooden Mallet for Chisels
ChrisLBren replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
That's what I thought ! Thanks Kurt - you just saved me 30 bucks -
Hey Group Do I need one of these to work with my chisels on 1/4 inch thick pear stock or will a sharp one with elbow grease be sufficient. Im finally getting around to sharpening my chisels and will be using them this weekend. Thanks for any input !
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Best Spindle Sander for Ship Modelling
ChrisLBren replied to whaynes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Im very happy with mine from Woodcraft https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-benchtop-spindle-sander?gclid=Cj0KCQiAieTUBRCaARIsAHeLDCQlQ-e-iK_AxBoNWaNNzAJm40t0bQhkZvTfCUYg4ltuU8kBhgpyBFAaAv7lEALw_wcB -
Hey Mike Judging by the photos - that figurehead is not that great - consider carving a new one ? I know it's a tall order .... Chris
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Sam - you have to let the first diluted coat of Tung dry for 24 hours before applying any subsequent coats - and those have to dry for 24 hours in between coats. Sorry to high jack your thread Ben !
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Always spectacular my friend ! Thank for sharing you latest with us.
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Happy Hollidays Gang ! Not much modeling time going on right now - this stinker showed up on Christmas Eve - very sweet 9 week old Boxer pup....
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Nice work Patrick - Happy Holidays !!!!
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Thanks for the advice everyone - didnt get much modeling done and have yet to sharpen these chisels. My kids wanted me to build a Jedi Temple - so Ive been busy with that project. Happy Holidays everyone !
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Thanks for the advice - so the factory bevel is at 30 percent on these chisels. So thinking I will clamp them in the Veritas system dialed to that setting and adjust the knob from 12 OClock to 6 OClock and then use the 1000 stone side of the stone to create the Micro Bevel and then polish with 4000. And then flip over to remove the burr with the 4000 stone. Does that sound about right ?
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Daria's talented. It's funny my daughter has taken more of an interest in my hobby more than my son. I'm looking forward to seeing her progress!
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Hey Group, Now that my La Renommee build is finally under weigh its finally time to sharpen the beautiful set of Lie Neilsen chisels I received as a gift from my wife last year. I own the Lee Valley MK Narrow Blade Honing Guide and a Japanese Water Stone 1000/4000. I work primarily with Pear Wood. I noticed in the instructions that you can set your honing guide to various bevel angle. Is 30-35 percent the proper setting ? Ive heard this system is full proof - but these were very expensive chisels - so I want to make sure I don't screw them up when I sharpen them tomorrow. Any advice is appreciated ! Chris
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I'm not taking any time off - this build has been a goal of mine and it will probably take 12 years at my 10 hour per week pace ! As I assemble these pieces I am pondering caulking - most of the classic models in museums do not represent it. However there is some charm to it. In the past I have used an HB lead effectively on deck planks but never on hulls. 1/48 is also a new scale to me. Any thoughts here - black paper, felt marker, etc ?
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Thanks for the feedback - I cut this piece out a lot quicker this AM - I spend most of my time adjusting the scarf joint - its not bad - the other side looks even tighter. Most importantly the assembly is following the plans to specifications for now
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Too funny - the 3-4 speed setting was the sweet spot I found this AM when cutting out the scarf joints on this 1/4 inch thick piece - the blade was much more precise vs the higher speed I used to cut out this part out a few days ago from the billet. Im curious to try out this setting tomorrow AM when I cut out the next keel part. I purchased most of these tools after Confederacy was just about complete so Im still getting used to them and having fun in the process.
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Good Morning Group, I have cut out the first piece for the keel assembly - approximately two hours using most of my tools - the Byrnes Thickness Sander for final dimensioning of the billet, the DeWalt Scroll Saw, Spindle Sander and Byrnes Disc Sander. I am hoping to become more efficient with the scroll saw - which would have cut down the amount of sanding time therefore producing the piece in less time. I have noticed slowing the speed down on the scroll saw (at least for me) produces a more controllable cut. It still felt great to be back at building and having fun with my new tools ! First observations - this new pear cuts cleanly and will finish beautifully - this piece is only sanded to 220. Its a bit harder and lighter than the wood I used for Confederacy - which I prefer. If i could just get my kids to sleep in I wouldn't be interrupted after only an hour of work. 4am to 6am is my workshop time - and they've been getting up at 5 for some reason - probably to torment me....
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For me it comes down to the trouble of breaking down a board - if I can pay someone 60 dollars to do it for me faster and better than I can who is 15 minutes away - why not ? As is it I have limited time to model - I get up early to sneak an hour or 2 in if I can before the kids wake up. I got an hour into cutting and sanding the first timber on my next build (its Le Renommee in 1/48th Mike) - before being interrupted !
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Yeah it really is the way to go Mike - my guy here charges me 60 per hour - which is more than enough time to reduce you lumber into useable billets. These are industrial machines - super efficient and do a way better job in less time than I would - not too mention spares me the dust. Good luck - Hearne has beautiful wood
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Hey Mike, I would go to these guys - they are my wood source - first class service and product: they have a huge selection http://hearnehardwoods.com/ Buy a larger board and take it locally to a milling service and have them dimension into standard sizes - 3/8,1/4, 3/16. Your Brynes tools can handle these dimensions and its way more cost effective. I have racks of Pear, Ebony and some Box enough to handle a few scratch builds.
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