ChrisLBren
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Everything posted by ChrisLBren
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Looks really good Toni - you have my admiration in completing such a challenging project. -
I recommend the AL Harvey along with Frank Mastinis Book Ship Modeling Simplified which references this kit. You can pick it up for under 100 dollars on EBay. While not historically accurate - it's an easy build and makes into an attractive first time model. https://m.ebay.com/itm/ARTESANIA-LATINA-1-50-Scale-Baltimore-Clipper-HARVEY-Kit-MINT-Cond-Nice/132653398889?epid=1320503011&hash=item1ee2c23b69:g:dSQAAOSw8FBbGJJV
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Looks gorgeous - congrats on a well built Confederacy !!!!
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ancre Chebece 1750 by Jeronimo - FINISHED
ChrisLBren replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Beautiful work Karl !!! -
Thanks for the clarification Mike. If you can build a display case as perfect as yours - applying a French Polish finish would not be above your talent ! Well done - the Danish Oil looks great.
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Hey Mike, On a piece of furniture that gorgeous you may want to consider this finish - classic French Polish using thin coats of shellac. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_polish Or even a simple wax finish would work well. http://www.thefurnitureconnoisseur.com/c/furniture-wax/ I know many use sanding sealers on their models - but on furniture its not really considered a final finish its more of a sealer before applying a finish from my research.
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Looking good !!!
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Hey Patrick, Terrific - quick question - will this be a closed shell model or will you open up one side to be able to see these barrels in the hold ? Chris
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Wonderful work Patrick !!!
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Love it Patrick !!!
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As a new user/sharpener I have to agree re Lie Nielsen. They cost more but are so much easier to sharpen (because they're almost perfect to begin with). I too use the Veritas Narrow guide system and waterstones. There's a big difference between the 1 inch Irvin I bought for 15.00 vs the Nielsens. If sure if you spend enough time sharpening the Irvins they will cut the same - not sure if they will keep an edge as long. This same chisel would have been 70 dollars with LN - they are also beautiful tools...
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Hey Group, I broke out my Proxxon MF70 to try some joints on some scraps- 5 minutes of work and here is the result. Much tighter and SO much easier than chisels with better results. I will need to be using this tool extensively on the keel parts, stem and stern and all of their respective notches - so will be bolting it down on my work bench tomorrow AM.
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Hey Mike, I did use Swiss Pear on Confederacy - the wood from this flitch of Swiss Pear is lighter which I prefer. Quality wise both batches have been nice to work with. I milled it a year ago and it hasn't darkened yet. I purchased it from these guys - great products and customer service. http://hearnehardwoods.com/
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Thanks for the feedback guys - its just going to get more difficult from here !!! Interesting article I found re Naval 18th Century Decoration this morning. http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.634.2179&rep=rep1&type=pdf
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Thanks Ben - it could be tighter - but if I keep working this joint - I'll never get anywhere ! I do love this Pear wood - it's far better than the wood I used on Confederacy
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I personally dont like wipe on poly for ship models - this is a product designed for wear and tear use - which certainly is not our models. I am a big fan of tung oil/danish oil, sanding sealer, wax or shellac. All of these finishes allow wood to age naturally and patina. My old Fair American Build looks the same as the day I applied Wipe On Poly back in 2007 - which makes sense - you're applying a plastic finish. If thats the look you're going for it makes sense. I prefer the look the look of old museum models. This finish is perfect - and a model built within the past decade or so - but looks two hundred years old https://goo.gl/images/GNCFtZ
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OK the first joint is out - pics show both sides - caulking simulated by a Chinese Marker - aka Grease Pencil.
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Really nice work on the stem Mike ! I would encourage you to experiment with finishes other than Wipe On Poly - it's easy to apply - but there are better finishes available in my opinion. Im looking forward to following your progress !
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French ships in my opinion are much more attractive (hull lines/sculptures/figureheads) than US or English - thats the reason I am drawn to them. I do agree - the British were probably better at seamanship/combat/longer term stability of construction. But Im a model builder not a sailor !
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I appreciate the advice Druxey ! I still swear by my new 12 oz mallet. I used it successfully tonight - it gives you a sense of balance combined with controlled force. I tap it lightly and go slow and I turned out a perfect joint - no light when I held it up to a bright light - that's a first ! So 50 hours and a pile of scraps later hoping to show my first useable parts - just need to decide on my preferred caulking simulation.
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Thanks for the advice - I do love this mallet - I've already ran some tests - with light force it's very effective with its balance. So I'll clamp a metal square to the piece to insure my chisel is 90 degrees - stay tuned https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CER0PC/ref=pd_aw_sbs_469_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8NKPXP58T76AK6DFEVHH&dpPl=1&dpID=61i0dlhSQzL
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