ChrisLBren
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Everything posted by ChrisLBren
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Love it Patrick !!! -
As a new user/sharpener I have to agree re Lie Nielsen. They cost more but are so much easier to sharpen (because they're almost perfect to begin with). I too use the Veritas Narrow guide system and waterstones. There's a big difference between the 1 inch Irvin I bought for 15.00 vs the Nielsens. If sure if you spend enough time sharpening the Irvins they will cut the same - not sure if they will keep an edge as long. This same chisel would have been 70 dollars with LN - they are also beautiful tools...
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Hey Group, I broke out my Proxxon MF70 to try some joints on some scraps- 5 minutes of work and here is the result. Much tighter and SO much easier than chisels with better results. I will need to be using this tool extensively on the keel parts, stem and stern and all of their respective notches - so will be bolting it down on my work bench tomorrow AM.
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Hey Mike, I did use Swiss Pear on Confederacy - the wood from this flitch of Swiss Pear is lighter which I prefer. Quality wise both batches have been nice to work with. I milled it a year ago and it hasn't darkened yet. I purchased it from these guys - great products and customer service. http://hearnehardwoods.com/
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Thanks for the feedback guys - its just going to get more difficult from here !!! Interesting article I found re Naval 18th Century Decoration this morning. http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.634.2179&rep=rep1&type=pdf
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Thanks Ben - it could be tighter - but if I keep working this joint - I'll never get anywhere ! I do love this Pear wood - it's far better than the wood I used on Confederacy
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I personally dont like wipe on poly for ship models - this is a product designed for wear and tear use - which certainly is not our models. I am a big fan of tung oil/danish oil, sanding sealer, wax or shellac. All of these finishes allow wood to age naturally and patina. My old Fair American Build looks the same as the day I applied Wipe On Poly back in 2007 - which makes sense - you're applying a plastic finish. If thats the look you're going for it makes sense. I prefer the look the look of old museum models. This finish is perfect - and a model built within the past decade or so - but looks two hundred years old https://goo.gl/images/GNCFtZ
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- winchelsea
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OK the first joint is out - pics show both sides - caulking simulated by a Chinese Marker - aka Grease Pencil.
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Really nice work on the stem Mike ! I would encourage you to experiment with finishes other than Wipe On Poly - it's easy to apply - but there are better finishes available in my opinion. Im looking forward to following your progress !
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French ships in my opinion are much more attractive (hull lines/sculptures/figureheads) than US or English - thats the reason I am drawn to them. I do agree - the British were probably better at seamanship/combat/longer term stability of construction. But Im a model builder not a sailor !
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I appreciate the advice Druxey ! I still swear by my new 12 oz mallet. I used it successfully tonight - it gives you a sense of balance combined with controlled force. I tap it lightly and go slow and I turned out a perfect joint - no light when I held it up to a bright light - that's a first ! So 50 hours and a pile of scraps later hoping to show my first useable parts - just need to decide on my preferred caulking simulation.
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Thanks for the advice - I do love this mallet - I've already ran some tests - with light force it's very effective with its balance. So I'll clamp a metal square to the piece to insure my chisel is 90 degrees - stay tuned https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CER0PC/ref=pd_aw_sbs_469_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8NKPXP58T76AK6DFEVHH&dpPl=1&dpID=61i0dlhSQzL
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Ok so just purchased a 1 inch chisel from Irwin - they were sold out of the Stanley's - so I'll probably need to spend more time sharpening it. I also bought a nice dead blow mallet. My plan is to follow Davids method from his book - cut the piece out with my Scroll saw at about 1/32nd tolerance on the joint. I'll clamp the piece to my cutting board and make sure the chisel is perpendicular - and we'll see....
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Hey Group, Getting closer - but the joints are still not tight enough. The current method Im using is my DeWalt scroll saw and then finishing with the Byrnes disk sander and metal files. Sanding off the edge of a disc sander for a scarf joint is probably not the best way to use this tool - its extremely effective however in getting parts to close tolerances - which hasnt been an issue . I am thinking a sharp chisel - probably 1 inch wide would be more effective for a precision fit. I am cutting 1/4 inch thick pear - which does splinter. Any suggestions are appreciated !
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Thanks guys - I am re energized - the biggest challenge is trying to find time in the shop. With every attempt the parts are getting closer to spec - considering I bought a flitch of pear wood - a couple of wasted boards isnt a big deal in the overall picture ! Greg - hoping this Boxer lives a healthier life than my last one - I really did my homework vetting a good breeder this time. My other one was a cancer factory - but somehow made it to 8 years with a lot of vet bills !
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Hey Group, I am back - this build is proving to be a challenge. I thought about a cross section ("slice" for my French friends) out of frustration - but after researching other build logs and being inspired - I am committed to building this ship fully rigged if its takes me 20 years. I am in love with her... My current status - I have wasted a pear board 2 inches by 24 learning to use my tools (spindle sander, all of the Jim Byrnes tools, Dewalt scroll saw and my Lie Neilsen chisels - sharpened this weekend) and here are my results. I am not completely satisfied and am probably on my way to wasting another board to get this right - (not to mention I will be working with ebony on the black parts above the waterline - so this assembly will be severed. Yes I am well aware of the challenges of working with Ebony - shes a tough mistress but nothing replicates her appearance). I do fantasize about building a kit at times - but the satisfaction of executing Boudriots plans flawlessly overwhelms those thoughts. Back to the workshop tomorrow morning....
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Looks great my friend - again looked thru your log this morning - so inspiring !
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Wooden Mallet for Chisels
ChrisLBren replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
That's what I thought ! Thanks Kurt - you just saved me 30 bucks -
Hey Group Do I need one of these to work with my chisels on 1/4 inch thick pear stock or will a sharp one with elbow grease be sufficient. Im finally getting around to sharpening my chisels and will be using them this weekend. Thanks for any input !
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Best Spindle Sander for Ship Modelling
ChrisLBren replied to whaynes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Im very happy with mine from Woodcraft https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-benchtop-spindle-sander?gclid=Cj0KCQiAieTUBRCaARIsAHeLDCQlQ-e-iK_AxBoNWaNNzAJm40t0bQhkZvTfCUYg4ltuU8kBhgpyBFAaAv7lEALw_wcB -
Hey Mike Judging by the photos - that figurehead is not that great - consider carving a new one ? I know it's a tall order .... Chris
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Sam - you have to let the first diluted coat of Tung dry for 24 hours before applying any subsequent coats - and those have to dry for 24 hours in between coats. Sorry to high jack your thread Ben !
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Always spectacular my friend ! Thank for sharing you latest with us.
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