ChrisLBren

I don't own any of these marvelous tools and am very jealous - I make due on an obsolete Preac table saw, a 30 year old Dremel, a rickety Delta scroll saw, and fingernail sanding sticks from a beauty salon...

cont...
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Sure Jack - you could approach your model in this fashion to make sure its historically accurate.  However in my opinion - the figurehead adds so much to the elegance of the model.  Both Bourdriot's Cyclope and the Le Cygne are spectacular examples of this class - Id love to build a model one half as good as these examples. 

Hey Andy,
A couple ideas for you - I created my wale using two strips of 4mm by 3mm strips vs one 8 mm piece - it was much easier to install this way.  Also you may want to consider mounting a strip equal to the thickness of your planking material and half of the dimension of your bulkhead former and mounted on your bulkhead former.  Then go ahead and add the stem assembly and keel assembly on top of the strip now vs later after you've planked.  What this does is create a rabbit for your planking and makes things much easier and cleaner when you plank - as the strips have a grove to mount into. I learned this technique from Chuck Passaro on my Confederacy build - Ive attached a photo of my bow so you can see.  

Sure Jack - you could approach your model in this fashion to make sure its historically accurate.  However in my opinion - the figurehead adds so much to the elegance of the model.  Both Bourdriot's Cyclope and the Le Cygne are spectacular examples of this class - Id love to build a model one half as good as these examples. 

Well I dont have any pics of the machine working...today is a rope making day.  But here are some images of the shop with the laser cutter.  Its very very messy as I am in high gear making stuff for the NRg conference in a few weeks.  The laser cutter....is a BOSS Laser cutter 80 watt.  But its custom and I had the larger laser tube placed in a smaller machine body for space reasons.  I dont need a huge laser bed because most of the parts we make are small.  I am very happy with its performance.  Buying a laser cutter is like buying a car...so many opinions and stuff to weed through on the web about which is the best one.  This particular unit cost about $5500 after everything was all set up.  The cheaper desktop models you see just wont do the job and cut very poorly.   Many promise to cut through 1/4' plywood but just wont.  So far I was able to cut through teh plywood using only 65% of the power that this tube is capable of generating.  It sits on a stand with wheels and can be rolled around teh shop but I like it right next to the workbench.  Its just like sending a document to the printer....instead you just hit "file Cut"   rather than "file print".   Its very easy to get up and running.
 

 
Baiscally the Laser is hooked up directly to an old laptop of mine.  I use Corel Draw to draft my cutting files.  They are saved as DFX files and opened up in the laser cutters software...lasercut 5.3.  Note the dryer exhaust behind the laser cutter.  The laser cutter doesnt leave behind anything after it cuts.  It actually obliterates the wood in its path leaving only residue....thats the brown stuff you see on the cut edges.  It is also on the laser bed.  It must be cleaned from time to time.  The material will smoke a bit as it cuts and there is a powerful exhaust fan that blows it outside through that vent.  My shop always smells like a fireplace now...very pleasant actually.  But I wont cut plastics and other materials because its noxious and the fumes are usually very hazardous...it could literally kill you.
 
Its a bit noisy because of the blower to work the exhaust and the pump to cool the laser tube.  Water is constantly pumped through the center of the laser tube as it cuts.  
 

 

 
You can see its size in relation to my work table...
 
This is the bed of the laser which allows me to cut a 14" x 14' piece of wood comfortable.  Its big enough for what we do.
 

 
This is the actual 80 watt laser tube in the back of the machine....the heart of the machine.   Th e laser beam is invisible and bounces off a series of mirrors to the laser head.   The laser head moves with a pulley and track system to follow the path of your lines.
 

 
The three things used to become an effective laser cutter is mastering the POWER setting for any given thickness of material,  the SPEED of the laser as it travels...and the maintenance of the machine to focus the laser as sharply as possible to give you the thinnest kerf.   Oh and of course the drafting and files you create must be done to the best advantage for your laser settings.
 
Basically its trial and error...place a thickness of wood on the bed and try various setting of power and speed until you find the optimum settings.  Every type of wood and thickness has different settings and they are recorded once I find them.  
 
Now back to the rope burning station where I need to finish up these 24 packs of black .012 rigging rope.  From high tech to incredibly low tech in just a few steps.
 

 
When you think about how much money you could spend on a Sherline lathe and mill and all of the accessories...$5500 is not that crazy.  I make a lot of parts for a living and that isnt the case with most ship modelers but I view this as just another tool to make parts.  You can excel at using it just like you could with a mill and lathe...which by the way,  a lathe is something I dont own.

Hey Andy,
A couple ideas for you - I created my wale using two strips of 4mm by 3mm strips vs one 8 mm piece - it was much easier to install this way.  Also you may want to consider mounting a strip equal to the thickness of your planking material and half of the dimension of your bulkhead former and mounted on your bulkhead former.  Then go ahead and add the stem assembly and keel assembly on top of the strip now vs later after you've planked.  What this does is create a rabbit for your planking and makes things much easier and cleaner when you plank - as the strips have a grove to mount into. I learned this technique from Chuck Passaro on my Confederacy build - Ive attached a photo of my bow so you can see.  

Hey Andy,
A couple ideas for you - I created my wale using two strips of 4mm by 3mm strips vs one 8 mm piece - it was much easier to install this way.  Also you may want to consider mounting a strip equal to the thickness of your planking material and half of the dimension of your bulkhead former and mounted on your bulkhead former.  Then go ahead and add the stem assembly and keel assembly on top of the strip now vs later after you've planked.  What this does is create a rabbit for your planking and makes things much easier and cleaner when you plank - as the strips have a grove to mount into. I learned this technique from Chuck Passaro on my Confederacy build - Ive attached a photo of my bow so you can see.  

An update !  Ive committed to setting aside an hour a night 5 days a week - and Ive added the fenders and ships ladder. The fenders were tricky to get right - I used an old planking iron to get the correct bend to fit flush with the hull.  
 
After i add the channels, I suppose i need to start thinking about some sort of stand - open to suggestions - Im bummed i didn't predrill the keel to accept rods so i can use brass pedestals. 
 
 

Hey Andy,
 
Here are some photos of my WVH as she stands today - I built her between 2002-2005 using mostly kit parts - single planked with the walnut wood provided.  I followed Corel directions as to where and how to start your planking run.  It turns out well - - as you can see the wales are placed on top of the planking after she's fully planked -which is not correct. You see a lot of kit models constructed this way - because its easier. Wales go on first to determine your planking run - then you plank from there.  If you want to paint your hull off white though - you can cover up the inaccurate run if you choose to follow the instructions.
 
I also attached some photos of the main deck - I milled my own holly for deck planking and tried to do a cut away to show the lower gun deck - which at the time seemed like a good idea - but now looks wrong to me - there would have been a few more beams here.  I also scratched my own gun carriages - because the ones in my kit were metal - i understand they have replaced these in newer kits.
 
The good news is I did a lot of research - Corel's plans are strong. I did some research secondary sources and the other sheets of plans I ordered to research the WPV. Some things are simplified - but overall Corel did a nice job.  
 
Look forward to seeing your progress,
Chris

Hey Andy,
 
Here are some photos of my WVH as she stands today - I built her between 2002-2005 using mostly kit parts - single planked with the walnut wood provided.  I followed Corel directions as to where and how to start your planking run.  It turns out well - - as you can see the wales are placed on top of the planking after she's fully planked -which is not correct. You see a lot of kit models constructed this way - because its easier. Wales go on first to determine your planking run - then you plank from there.  If you want to paint your hull off white though - you can cover up the inaccurate run if you choose to follow the instructions.
 
I also attached some photos of the main deck - I milled my own holly for deck planking and tried to do a cut away to show the lower gun deck - which at the time seemed like a good idea - but now looks wrong to me - there would have been a few more beams here.  I also scratched my own gun carriages - because the ones in my kit were metal - i understand they have replaced these in newer kits.
 
The good news is I did a lot of research - Corel's plans are strong. I did some research secondary sources and the other sheets of plans I ordered to research the WPV. Some things are simplified - but overall Corel did a nice job.  
 
Look forward to seeing your progress,
Chris

I continue with a series of images of another "brick of 24", belonging to the same class of Le Cyclope.
 
This model depicts "Le Cygne", the model described in the monograph from ANCRE. Even here I do not know who the model maker is but surely he well knows what to do and how . . and it pays more care in removing dust from the model before taking photos of it.
 
Unlike Le Cyclope, Le Cygne mounted 24pdrs carronades and only two 6pdrs guns at bow. Here are three major differences:
- The figurehead
- The poop lateral "bottles" and the kind of decorations
- The gunports size, that are much larger on Le Cygne than the same of Le Cyclope; I believe that this difference is due to the presence of carronades instead of the guns, to provide a greater visual shooting to carronades.
 
Here below five images of Le Cygne. . to be continued. . 
A cordial greeting, Jack.Aubrey 
 
01 Le%20Cygne/dsc_0600_zps7c6c0c60.jpg

02 Le%20Cygne/dsc_0601_zps33d3b303.jpg

03 Le%20Cygne/dsc_0603_zps00d08111.jpg

04 Le%20Cygne/dsc_0607_zps5bfa66b6.jpg

05 Le%20Cygne/dsc_0609_zps558b5763.jpg

 

Continuation. Blackened all nails inside the hull. I prepared the material for the further stages of work. Wood is a pear.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 

Hello friends,
new photos of the construction progress the BHR.
Karl  
 
 
T e i l   51

Hello,
today I want to show you how I have made the fittings for the ventilation hatches with portholes.
These vents are located on the lower deck, as can be seen in the following pictures.

 
The other images show step by step the process.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks, Yves and Nils for your comments, I have greatly appreciated your feedback. I also have to show a second model of this brick/brig class, coming soon . .
 
As promised, some overall views of the hull . .
 
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1090995_zpsdf171607.jpg

 
02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1090996_zpse1dd41aa.jpg

 
03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100002_zpsc51d362f.jpg

 
And last but not least the prow completed with the filler blocks, although not yet sanded.
Next step i'll attack the poop. Hoping in a good result.
Greetings, Jack.
 
Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/CAM00340_zps1b9ae24d.jpg

 

Wednesday, September 24th, 2014 - Some Pictures of "Le Cyclope"  
In the absence of new material from my model to show, I start to post some messages in which you can understand what kind of sailing ship I'm building and its appearance once finished. 
I'm starting with some pictures of a model of an unknown author, although I think should be B. Frolich, of one of the 22 bricks de 24 designed by Pestel.
It is "Le Cyclope". 
Le Cyclope was set up in 1804 and launched in 1810 in Genoa. Armed with sixteen 6pdrs guns she was transferred to Italy in June 1810. 
Good vision, Jack.Aubrey.
 
01 Le%20Cyclope/dsc_0336_zps99d9a8ea.jpg

02 Le%20Cyclope/dsc_0338_zpsd16f2304.jpg

03 Le%20Cyclope/dsc_0339_zps3651ac8f.jpg

04 Le%20Cyclope/dsc_0340_zps2e72d043.jpg

05 Le%20Cyclope/dsc_0344_zps699eb6e5.jpg

To be continued . .
 

Thanks AP, Rusty, Nils and for all the likes.
 
Rusty - it's good to see you back around.
 
So the rough fairing has been completed and frame pair K which is the first frame bend has now been installed with its spacers. I am making and installing the floor spacers from 4" Swiss pear as the square frames go in, and the frame bend spacers are 4" boxwood that I hope will give a little bit of contrast.
 
As of today, frame 14fore and frame pair J have been cut out and need assembly, hopefully over next few days.
 
Ben

Hey Andy,
 
Here are some photos of my WVH as she stands today - I built her between 2002-2005 using mostly kit parts - single planked with the walnut wood provided.  I followed Corel directions as to where and how to start your planking run.  It turns out well - - as you can see the wales are placed on top of the planking after she's fully planked -which is not correct. You see a lot of kit models constructed this way - because its easier. Wales go on first to determine your planking run - then you plank from there.  If you want to paint your hull off white though - you can cover up the inaccurate run if you choose to follow the instructions.
 
I also attached some photos of the main deck - I milled my own holly for deck planking and tried to do a cut away to show the lower gun deck - which at the time seemed like a good idea - but now looks wrong to me - there would have been a few more beams here.  I also scratched my own gun carriages - because the ones in my kit were metal - i understand they have replaced these in newer kits.
 
The good news is I did a lot of research - Corel's plans are strong. I did some research secondary sources and the other sheets of plans I ordered to research the WPV. Some things are simplified - but overall Corel did a nice job.  
 
Look forward to seeing your progress,
Chris

Norman,
 
I am surely not an expert about bitumen, but here is how I use it. About UV stability, I do not think that it does matter simply because models are intended to see the sun. The key is the quantity, effectively, too small quantity, it will not be enough apparent and too thick it will not dry. Usually bitumen is applied mainly on the hull, on large surface.  Bee wax is added in the mixture, so oxidation, I guess, is  not acting that much.
Bee wax has been used for centuries for wood cabinetry. In this case bitumen is added to this mixture to simulate time aging and I like the effect.

Andy heres' a Russian build log that might be helpful
 
http://chez-xandra.be/publ/16-1-0-60

Andy heres' a Russian build log that might be helpful
 
http://chez-xandra.be/publ/16-1-0-60

Andy heres' a Russian build log that might be helpful
 
http://chez-xandra.be/publ/16-1-0-60

Thanks guys - Max I used two sets of plans from two German books written about 16th and 17th German warships - I'd be more than happy to share my research if Andy doesn't mind - I don't want to hijack his thread.  
 
I may or may not restart this build in the near term - first I have to finish my scratch built Confederacy and then I was thinking about moving onto the La Jacinthe.  At the same time - I have kept the WVH in storage since 2006 - its a great kit and does deserve to be finished.

Hey Andy,
 
Here are some photos of my WVH as she stands today - I built her between 2002-2005 using mostly kit parts - single planked with the walnut wood provided.  I followed Corel directions as to where and how to start your planking run.  It turns out well - - as you can see the wales are placed on top of the planking after she's fully planked -which is not correct. You see a lot of kit models constructed this way - because its easier. Wales go on first to determine your planking run - then you plank from there.  If you want to paint your hull off white though - you can cover up the inaccurate run if you choose to follow the instructions.
 
I also attached some photos of the main deck - I milled my own holly for deck planking and tried to do a cut away to show the lower gun deck - which at the time seemed like a good idea - but now looks wrong to me - there would have been a few more beams here.  I also scratched my own gun carriages - because the ones in my kit were metal - i understand they have replaced these in newer kits.
 
The good news is I did a lot of research - Corel's plans are strong. I did some research secondary sources and the other sheets of plans I ordered to research the WPV. Some things are simplified - but overall Corel did a nice job.  
 
Look forward to seeing your progress,
Chris