ChrisLBren

So 4 years later after completition she looks better as the wood finish has deepend and aged.  I know I should put her in a case - but she looks great as is.  

So 4 years later after completition she looks better as the wood finish has deepend and aged.  I know I should put her in a case - but she looks great as is.  

So 4 years later after completition she looks better as the wood finish has deepend and aged.  I know I should put her in a case - but she looks great as is.  

Hey Mike - sounds like you've got an interesting approach - I would caution you on using Fiebings to dye Pear on large areas - it's fading out already on my Confederacy and Remco has been having issues with it on his build. Several thin coats of acrylic paint sanded in between is a better option.

To G. Delacroix - thanks for the info, I made the new one items with no wedges
To garyshipwright - I am using "10 Degree 0.1mm Tip Carbide CNC Bits Flat Bottom Milling Cutter V Shape" (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/852725456.html) for most of CNC 3D carvings. Question about tutorial - I am so sorry, making a video tutorial would be too time consuming and my knowledge of English is minimal.
I continue with the assembly of the capstans.
 

Looks exactly like mine at this stage - need to start fairing the bulkheads !!!!

Continuation. 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Pawel 

Nice work Mike !  Now that it may be finally thawing here - I can start fairing my hull and hope my planking turns out nearly as good as yours...

We’re our own worst critics !!! Nice fix 

I personally dont like wipe on poly for ship models - this is a product designed for wear and tear use - which certainly is not our models.  I am a big fan of tung oil/danish oil, sanding sealer, wax or shellac.  All of these finishes allow wood to age naturally and patina.  My old Fair American Build looks the same as the day I applied Wipe On Poly back in 2007 - which makes sense - you're applying a plastic finish.  If thats the look you're going for it makes sense.  I prefer the look the look of old museum models.  This finish is perfect - and a model built within the past decade or so - but looks two hundred years old
 
https://goo.gl/images/GNCFtZ

Really nice work on the stem  Mike ! I would encourage you to experiment with finishes other than Wipe On Poly - it's easy to apply - but there are better finishes available in my opinion.
 
Im looking forward to following your progress ! 

I personally dont like wipe on poly for ship models - this is a product designed for wear and tear use - which certainly is not our models.  I am a big fan of tung oil/danish oil, sanding sealer, wax or shellac.  All of these finishes allow wood to age naturally and patina.  My old Fair American Build looks the same as the day I applied Wipe On Poly back in 2007 - which makes sense - you're applying a plastic finish.  If thats the look you're going for it makes sense.  I prefer the look the look of old museum models.  This finish is perfect - and a model built within the past decade or so - but looks two hundred years old
 
https://goo.gl/images/GNCFtZ

Hey Group,
 
I have decided to restart this build log now that I have enlarged the plans to 1/32 and have decided to build La Jacinthe's sister ship,  La Topaze.  There hulls are identical but where they begin to differ are the deck fittings, closed bulwarks and rig.  I am following the recommended construction process in the monograph which is a bit different than previous Plank on Bulkheads builds.  As you can see here I began with a 3/4 inch thick piece of MDF reinforced by 1/2 by 3/4 poplar strips to ensure a flat surface.  
 
Many of the Ancre Monographs only depict one side of an image - so I mirror copied the plans and adhered them to the build board using 3M Artist Spray Mount.  I highly recommend this product for frame patterns etc because you can re position them easily if need be before they dry.  
 
This hull will be built upside down with the keel parallel to the build board and the bulkheads will be screwed into lugs and into the build board to ensure they are perfectly 90 degrees.  The bulkhead former will be added last - if all goes well it should slide in perfectly to the slots in the bulkheads.  
 
I am hoping to have some updated pictures after the long weekend,
Chris
 
 

The benches are pretty simple as well.  You just want to follow the curve of your transom.  This might be different slightly from model to model.  First,  you add one of the bench sides to the side of the rudder trunk.  See below.   Note how the top aft point of the side is even with the break along the inboard counter.  
 
At the same time,  assemble the front panel for the bench with the other side.  Have it ready to glue into position.  It will sit on top of the lower counter.  But you can see how the front panel is actually up on the lower counter and not actually on deck.  This is correct.   The benches will not extend all the way to the bulwarks.
 
keep in mind that the bottom of the front panel is beveled so it will fit snug along the forward edge of the bench on top of the curved counter.
 

To finish it off,  add the tops of the benches.  Bevel the back edge so it fits the counter.  It really finishes off the great cabin nicely. The bench tops overhang ever so slightly along the front edge and of course the ends as well.
 

 
 

The plastic bellows of the scroll saw needed to be replace. It would have cost about $100 to replace it. I did not like that price, so I replaced it with an aquarium air pump.

To the learner - The basis is a wooden plate into which depressions are milled and holes for nails are drilled. A cotton pad (a make-up cotton pad that I borrowed from my wife) is glued to the plate prepared in this way. Push the cotton into the recess with the end of the brush nozzle. Glue any suitable cloth and push the material into the recess again. Finally, thread the nails with small heads through the cloth and cotton into the holes in the wooden board, glue and cut. Glue the ends of the fabric over the edges of the wooden board and you're done.
Inner bulkheads - continuation part two.
 

Inner bulkheads - continuation part one.

Hello.
Cont.

aloha from hawaii, first attempt to modele d arsenal, so far, very complicated to wrap your mind around the process, make and remake seems to be the rule. but the challenge of a long term build is going to be the hardest for me.
after enjoying building "Louise" form Ancre plans le Gros Ventre is definitively a step up, so far I regret I didn't build a bigger scale, 1/36 I feel would have been easier, I think, not sure, I will use cherry, poplar and maple, as I could not locate pear wood in hawaii
 

Thank you guys for all your comments and likes.
To  scrubbyj427: I am using CNC maschine made by China, these maschines are avaiable worldwide (see the picture).
I started works on inner bulkheads.
 

Thanks Everyone,
 
Work on the upper deck aft framing is almost complete and I just have to tie it in with the Wing Transom now.
Then there are the five trickier mid sections to complete the upper deck.

We were gifted with a record setting streak of warm weather here along Lake Ontario these past 7 days. And so were able to complete some last minute details prior to priming. To start with I finally decided to wet sand the hull to fair the Nitro Stan glazing compound. I had hesitated earlier as there was still a good deal of bare wood showing and it is a messy process as you auto body folk well know. It was left to dry for 2 days.
 
Once that was done the rub rails were added up to the bow area. That was truncated because I have yet to master the "fair in" of the bow and the rub rail and the bow rub rail has to be specialy cut to fit the bow area as segmented rub rail was not going to traverse the bow. You may also see that a hull detail was added up to that point. It is an artifact, I believe, of the original hull layup as these hulls were intended for both pleasure and fishing craft. It is a simple 1/32" relief under the rub rail that follows closely to the waterline.
 
One last detail was added and that was the trail board attached to the transom. On Mark II versions of the hull this was built directly into the transom.
 
The day this was painted the air was relatively still but the relative humidity was quite low. As a result we were unable to get a full wet coat application on the primed hull. I chose automotive primer for the task so that has added to post priming tasks of a light wet sanding with 400 paper. The topside area is still to be worked to simulate the gullets of a fiberglass molded topsides so that is yet to be treated. Otherwise I am happy to report, in spite of all the applications of fill and glazing compound, the hull ia quite presentable from a fairness standpoint. I am sure the wet sanding will reveal some 'holidays' but for the moment we are go to press on.
 
Joe
 
PS: That sheet behind the model is a weakly veiled attempt to hide a messy counter area more than a backdrop cloth. Who said I had to be neat!

Interesting technique !!!  Really nice progress 
Chris