ChrisLBren

Underside of the Superstructure deck - fully wired into the circuit board.  Lets hope it works !  Latest full profile photo - I am halfway thru pack 8 of 12.  

Its a fun build - Ill send some photos soon.  Next step is hooking up all of the wires (which are many) to the main circuit board.  The build is a combination of working with metal, plastics and electronics.  Its a very different build than a wooden ship.  

Its a fun build - Ill send some photos soon.  Next step is hooking up all of the wires (which are many) to the main circuit board.  The build is a combination of working with metal, plastics and electronics.  Its a very different build than a wooden ship.  

Forecastle guardrail is installed with iron stanchions. The stanchions for the gangway are double stanchions with a revolving branch.

Pack 5 is completed out of 12 - this model at this stage has more wires than our Christmas Tree.  I should be testing many of the functions in the next Pack.  Forward superstructure complete - second turret "Bruno" added.

To bruce d: Yes, I did - see the picture on the page nr. 10.
The last items on the quaterdeck - the stationary blocks and fixation of the tiller.

Finally, Step 8 of the second session is over. 
 

 
I am letting you enjoy the plethora of information and guidance that CAF model is giving to the builder: Coppering !!! It is all in the name :-)
 
That tedious process is finally over, with close to 2,400 tiles cut, embossed, peeled and placed by hand. The number is very close to what the real ship used and that is a testimony to the size of the model tiles (25 mm x 8 mm). I would absolutely recommend the process of using the 3M copper tape, as it is so much easier to prepare, install and glue than pre-cut tiles with CA glue. The burnishing allowed with the copper tape also permits you to finish nicely, those delicate sections where a piece of metal may not fit perfectly.
 
Finally, if the cost is a consideration, know that I was able to finish this enormous hull with only two rolls of tape and I have plenty left for the rudder or any repair. Cost was $43 including shipping versus the $400 for the tiles + many glue bottles that the kit copper tiles would cost you. A big thank you to all the readers that have convinced me to go with the tape.
 

 

 

 
I am going to let it sit for a few days, as the copper is slowly tarnishing and acquiring that red and warm hue that I enjoy so much. After that I will seal it with Future Floor most likely.
 
Let's enjoy some pictures of the finished animal: 
 

 

 

 

 

 
For those who would be tempted to follow this process, here is the invoice for the two rolls of 3M tape: 
 

 
and the product: 
 

 
There are some variations in the color of the tiles, which is actually rather pleasant, but the more I wait and the more everything blends nicely like the foliage in autumn.
 
I hope you have enjoyed that approach. I know I was very hesitant to start it and I do not regret it in any ways. The only casualty of this process is that I no longer have a full nail on my right thumb, after peeling 2400 copper tiles from their protective adhesive backing. I am going to force on the brewer's yeast supplements to re-grow that nail....
 
Yves
 
 

Lantern.

Thanks Ill keep you posted !

Thanks guys - yes Mike - it is my French Pear - cuts beautifully.  
 
This really is a learning curve - I'm having to relearn how I build using for the most part the Byrnes tools, the Proxxon Mill and chisels.  I am finding the larger scale 1/36 a little more approachable.   So far its really challenging and I have yet to complete the keel and its assemblies !  

These look great !  I may need one for my Le Gros Ventre build.  Do you have the size for 1/36th scale ?

Thanks for the likes and nice comments.
 
Upper deck framing is now completed.
Next steps will be the waterways, port stops, bulwark planking up to the next deck clamps and then the stern framing.
I also have to start thinking/designing how much of the upper deck will be planked and how much I will leave open so the framing and lower deck can be seen.
 
ben
 
 

Hey Andy,
 
Here are some photos of my WVH as she stands today - I built her between 2002-2005 using mostly kit parts - single planked with the walnut wood provided.  I followed Corel directions as to where and how to start your planking run.  It turns out well - - as you can see the wales are placed on top of the planking after she's fully planked -which is not correct. You see a lot of kit models constructed this way - because its easier. Wales go on first to determine your planking run - then you plank from there.  If you want to paint your hull off white though - you can cover up the inaccurate run if you choose to follow the instructions.
 
I also attached some photos of the main deck - I milled my own holly for deck planking and tried to do a cut away to show the lower gun deck - which at the time seemed like a good idea - but now looks wrong to me - there would have been a few more beams here.  I also scratched my own gun carriages - because the ones in my kit were metal - i understand they have replaced these in newer kits.
 
The good news is I did a lot of research - Corel's plans are strong. I did some research secondary sources and the other sheets of plans I ordered to research the WPV. Some things are simplified - but overall Corel did a nice job.  
 
Look forward to seeing your progress,
Chris

Making progress on my second iteration. So far I’ve followed the posts of Kevin Kenny and Stuglo with great appreciation  and admiration. Your skill level is way beyond my own. I find myself spending hours on improving my hinges, trying to make them smaller and smaller. The key has been perfecting my silver soldering technique. The stronger the joint, the more I can file them down to the desired size without the joint failing. 
I’ve not yet made a decision on how, and whether to display the interior in the final product. So for now, I’m doggedly applying all the interior detail. If nothing else, it’s a fun process and serves to improve my methods. After all, Isn’t that what it’s all about!  
It’s a cold morning in eastern Massachusetts. Great weather for making progress in the model shipyard.

One last section awaiting its ledges and the upper deck framing is completed.
 

Nothing as nice as Gregory's idea. I just pinched them between my fingers and drew my sanding block across. I used 180 grit paper. I used a block or sanding stick instead of just sandpaper to avoid my rounding of the edges too much.
 

 
First, I went across the truck rotating after each pass, draw it across, repeat for maybe two full circles.
 

 
Then I went with the truck doing the same thing until it was clean enough. There was always a couple of spots that don't come perfectly clear but that's ok. I think it adds depth to it.
 

 
 
 
Thanks Matt. From the aft mast to the front of the forward hatch I made a straight line with pin striping tape. Aliened the eye bolts and drilled according to the plans. The bolts around the stove, forward mast and in the cabins were marked as close to the plans as I could get. Note that all the smaller rings and bolts alien with the center of the corresponding gunport. A good way to check your placement.
 
Thank you, Frank and Ben, and also for all the likes!

I passed a first coat of shellac:


 

 

 

 

 

 

Main ladder hood.

The new version of my gun carriages using hardwoods from the advice of ChrisLBren.  I like this a lot better and I've already started to mass produce them.  I will be painting the wheels later.  I am also very close to being done with the planking on the lower half of the hull.

Merry christmas and happy new year to all.
Binnacle.

Thank you guys.
Officer´s bench.

Its a great kit - mine is fully planked and has been sitting waiting to be finished. I too wanted to make modifications but decided to build it straight forward.  As far as planking if you choose to use the walnut planking - buy a large metal pipe to soak the boards which makes it much easier to bend the boards.  And make sure to glue successive boards as you plank from the wales to the upper ones so there are no gaps.  
 
The only issue I have with it is the pot metal gun carriages which should be scratch built for a better result.  PM me if you want any photos.

Wow.....

Looks really good Chuck - still thinking about an approach for us building in Pear/Cherry.  Maybe just going with Boxwood colored for the rails and sculptures will look good. It does tie in well with the frieze.  Usually I only like three tones in a project - on this one there could be black wales, red bulwarks, pear planking, boxwood sculptures/rails and blue frieze.  Or dye all of the boxwood down using your recommended gel stain - Ill have to experiment.  
 
This ship is looking amazing - kudos - Im also thinking of rigging her.  Ive got the space !!!!

I am very curious here about a decal approach for the frieze - it would allow variance of color for the background  and would allow you to apply the same finish you wish on top of the decals for a match to the hulls finish