ChrisLBren

Thanks guys - appreciate the kind words.  Mike, i top coated three coats of Fiebings (buffed with a tshirt after ever coat) with Danish Oil - which gives it a slight luster that mimics ebony.  Hope this helps,
Chris

Thanks for the comments and the "likes".  
 
The best laid plans of mice and men... an Admiralty meeting.  We discussed progress and plans then "if I can't see it, why do it?  You'll save a couple of months, right?".   "Err.. yes.  But I want to do it because it's there.  I'll know it."  Well, so much for argument.  It's her ship and I'll do it.  
 
So,.. I scraped the planking, added the oven and mizzen mast step and applied a coat of Wipe on Poly.   And then moved to the gundeck.  
 
Beams are in and the furniture on deck was salvaged from Version 1.  It's all destined for the scrapbox except for the riding bitts.  I just decided I can do better.   There's a dummy bowspit in place.  Carlings need to be added at various hatchways.
 
So... 4" of deck planking (except the center area which is 8") and 4" for the coamings.  4" thick coamings for the hatches on top of the 8" center area.  What else... planking will follow the French style of following the hull lines.  And the ceiling.   
 
Sorry for thinking out loud...   There's a pantry around the mizzen mast and rudder lines, a "cabinet" around the rudder, a step/storage at the transom along with all the other furniture on the gundeck.  The partition for the wardroom/Great Room is on the table as far as possible.  It was removable as was the captain's and executive officer's bedplace.   I won't get into all the politics and issues with the wardroom not being the Captain's cabin, roundhouses (Captain's bedplace and dayroom), etc.  
 
I'm done babbling.... I have my work cut out for me so here's pics.....
 

 

 

Yikes - Ill clean it out - thanks for letting me know

Thanks for the feedback guys - does any one have an opinion on this mill ?  Its 20 percent off at Micromark right now for approx 660.00 
 
http://www.micromark.com/microlux-high-precision-heavy-duty-r8-miniature-milling-machine,9616.html

Hey Group,
Back at it with Confederacy - all of the channels and chainplates are installed - now its back to the head timbers and finishing up the bow

Thanks everyone - ASAT - this approach is not mine - I imitated many French Builder's use of color/wood tones - if you have Frolichs book, "The Art of Shipmodeling" you'll see my reference. 7 years as of Thanksgiving this year on this build  - lately I've been up in the shop at 5am and working till 7am until the kids get up - seems to be working...

Thanks everyone - ASAT - this approach is not mine - I imitated many French Builder's use of color/wood tones - if you have Frolichs book, "The Art of Shipmodeling" you'll see my reference. 7 years as of Thanksgiving this year on this build  - lately I've been up in the shop at 5am and working till 7am until the kids get up - seems to be working...

Thanks everyone - ASAT - this approach is not mine - I imitated many French Builder's use of color/wood tones - if you have Frolichs book, "The Art of Shipmodeling" you'll see my reference. 7 years as of Thanksgiving this year on this build  - lately I've been up in the shop at 5am and working till 7am until the kids get up - seems to be working...

Hey Group,
Back at it with Confederacy - all of the channels and chainplates are installed - now its back to the head timbers and finishing up the bow

Hey Group
As I'm winding down Confederacy I'm gearing up for my next build. I already own all of Jim Byrnes tools and a spindle sander.
 
On the list is a mill - would love suggestions as to accessories (I understand Sherline may be the way to go), a lathe, and possibly a drill press (but won't mills have that capability?). I'm building in 1/48 or 1/36 scale - thanks !

Hey Group
As I'm winding down Confederacy I'm gearing up for my next build. I already own all of Jim Byrnes tools and a spindle sander.
 
On the list is a mill - would love suggestions as to accessories (I understand Sherline may be the way to go), a lathe, and possibly a drill press (but won't mills have that capability?). I'm building in 1/48 or 1/36 scale - thanks !

Hey Group,
Back at it with Confederacy - all of the channels and chainplates are installed - now its back to the head timbers and finishing up the bow

Hey Group,
Back at it with Confederacy - all of the channels and chainplates are installed - now its back to the head timbers and finishing up the bow

Hey Group,
Back at it with Confederacy - all of the channels and chainplates are installed - now its back to the head timbers and finishing up the bow

Hey Group,
Back at it with Confederacy - all of the channels and chainplates are installed - now its back to the head timbers and finishing up the bow

Hey Group,
Back at it with Confederacy - all of the channels and chainplates are installed - now its back to the head timbers and finishing up the bow

Go with Fiebings Black Shoe dye on Swiss Pear for your wales - it takes the dye better than boxwood.  I use 4 coats - they dry instantly then buff with an old t shirt.  I then top coat with Watcos Danish Oil.

She's back on the bench - continuing the channels and chainplates.  No more guarantees when she will be completed - maybe sooner than later ?!?

Finger still hurts a bit a week later but my model related injury hasn't stopped me !  Finishing Confederacy by year end or bust.....
 
Update - the foremast channels are installed.  I chose to paint Chucks nice boxwood deadeyes with Tamiya Flat Black paint.  If I use paint/dye again on my next model (which Im leaning more to a "Belgian school" approach of all Pear) I will not bother with Fiebings dye - Tamiya flat black with an overcoat of Watcos Danish Oil looks as good as Fiebings with far less trouble in application.  
 
This is may be my last build at this scale - thanks to a photo etch set from Model Expo Ive been able to realize the chainplate assemblies - soldering them this small would be a serious pain - kudos to you Rusty ! 

Hey Group 
I've moved into our new house - I've attached photos of my new workspace (which needs to be set up - I also have a three car garage and a large deck for workspace) and my study where I have a big wall to house a ship model (you can see the profile of the plans of the 118 Commerce de Marseille which would easily fit in this space at 1/48).  Its either this ship or the 74 - funny  aside -  I bought a smaller Weber gas grill this past weekend - the Spirit - and I'm trading up for the Genesis because the wife said it was too small.   So maybe I should go for the 118 built as the 120  L'Orient - since she says go big or go home ! 
Chris

I'm still working and not just daydreaming about my next project.  Chesstree installed - bit of glare as the tung oil dries - hoping to tackle the fenders and ladders next

Hey Group
 
An update !  Working on the cheeks - have to say this is my favorite part of the build so far.  This is where the careful work i did almost four years ago on the stem is paying off - everything for the most part is lining up.  You can see I did rework the trailboards vs using the ones Chuck generously supplied - mine needed to be about 1/16 wider at the hawse holes for it to fit and align everything properly.  Some tweaking will still be necessary - my advice for people building the kit is to know going in - this area is probably more of a scratch building exercise than simply using the kit components.  Most will need to adjust/re work  parts  to compensate for the creep that is unavoidable in your build.  I also highly recommend using hardwoods for the cheeks.  
 
Next up will be to finish the cheeks by inscribing the moldings, dyeing the tailboards/stem/adding the carvings, painting the figurehead and installing everything to the model.
 
Lastly picked up a couple Ancre Monographs and am currently studying them for my next builds. I'm pumped !  I should be busy for the rest of my life with these - I intend to build both in 1/48.  
 
Chris

Hey Group,
Back at it with Confederacy - all of the channels and chainplates are installed - now its back to the head timbers and finishing up the bow

OK Group,
 
An update at last - starting the headrails.  Up first is the lower cheek.  After careful sanding to get it to fit - the next issue was devising a way to get straight groves along the faces of the cheeks.  The solution is simple - create a handle - which I did with a couple scraps of wood - and a brass nail elevated exactly 1/64.  Then all you need to do is run the piece along the nail several times to create a groove - which was then enlarged with a series of larger nails used by hand similar to an awl.  
 
Ive also attached a bow shot - alignment here is so critical - and by my eye the right side is a little lower than the left.  Not much can be done here to correct other than possible adjust the height of the hawse hole boards if need be to compensate for the upper cheek.  We will see how it looks once i remove the black strake above the cheek in order to install the hawse hole boards - hopefully this weekend if the twins allow.
 
 

Hey Group,
 
At last all deck furniture is finished with the re installation of the ships wheel (i lowered its supports 1/16) and the binnacles.  All thats left on this one is the headrails, dummy masts, channels/deadeyes, gunport lids/fenders and anchors.  I need to decide if i want to proceed to the head rails or revisit the WVH - it is painting and sanding season outside here in Chicago (if it cools down just a bit).  On the other hand Ive got some renewed momentum on the Confed.  Have a great weekend,
Chris