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ChrisLBren

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  1. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from wyz in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale   
    Rail construction continues… And everything is lining up - unbelievable !!!



  2. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from wyz in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale   
    Well couldn't resist - i removed the cheek and filed down the lip of the wale on the left side - I think it looks much better at least to me....
     
    Onward!

  3. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from Ryland Craze in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale   
    Hi Gang,
     
    After a hiatus due to my wife and I having twins, she's dusted off and I'm hoping to recommence this build.  I've attached some not so great photos from my iphone - the idea here is just to get a log started and motivate me to get back in the shipyard - for at least a few hours per week.  
     
    This build was started back in November of 2009 using Chucks plans that later were used in the Model Expo kit.  The woods used were swiss pear from Hobby Mill for almost exclusively with the exception of boxwood for the decks and a little bit of ebony for the false keel and checkerboard flooring in the great cabin.  Im a big fan of Fiebings dyed swiss pear and used this method for all black areas with the exceptions I just mentioned.  I used three finishes, pure tung oil for the hull, Watcos Danish Oil for the deck fittings and beams, and diluted sanding sealer for the deck.  
     
    My goal is to at least get the 6 lb guns rigged and installed along with the ships wheel hopefully by the end of the month so i can begin the headrails this summer if the twins cooperate....
     
    Thats it for now - by the way the photo posts looks a bit different than the old Modelship World - any tips on the best size to upload so they look more standard/fill the screen ?
    Chris







  4. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from Captain Poison in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale   
    Here are the pics



  5. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from Captain Poison in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale   
    At last the Shipyard re opens (well not the permanent one).  After getting estimates of building out my new workshop - I've decided to put that off until next year.  We have more pressing priorities with the house.  
     
    So I made a trip to Home Depot - bought a great new tool chest that locks (which is great for child proofing) and a desk from Ikea and have set up shop in my library/office.  I've also dusted her off and cleaned her up.   Most of the messy parts of Confederacy are finished - all thats left is finishing the head rails, channels and deadeyes, and stump masts/anchors. I can always go saw in the garage if needed
     
    I'm a bit stuck on the headrails - the forward most timber is proving to be a bear.  So I may finish up the channels and deadeyes so I can glue all of the gunport lids (these guys get knocked around easily) and then revisit the head.  
     
    Im going on 6 years into this build as of end of November - really hoping to wrap it up this year.


  6. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from Wishmaster in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale   
    At last the Shipyard re opens (well not the permanent one).  After getting estimates of building out my new workshop - I've decided to put that off until next year.  We have more pressing priorities with the house.  
     
    So I made a trip to Home Depot - bought a great new tool chest that locks (which is great for child proofing) and a desk from Ikea and have set up shop in my library/office.  I've also dusted her off and cleaned her up.   Most of the messy parts of Confederacy are finished - all thats left is finishing the head rails, channels and deadeyes, and stump masts/anchors. I can always go saw in the garage if needed
     
    I'm a bit stuck on the headrails - the forward most timber is proving to be a bear.  So I may finish up the channels and deadeyes so I can glue all of the gunport lids (these guys get knocked around easily) and then revisit the head.  
     
    Im going on 6 years into this build as of end of November - really hoping to wrap it up this year.


  7. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from archjofo in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale   
    At last the Shipyard re opens (well not the permanent one).  After getting estimates of building out my new workshop - I've decided to put that off until next year.  We have more pressing priorities with the house.  
     
    So I made a trip to Home Depot - bought a great new tool chest that locks (which is great for child proofing) and a desk from Ikea and have set up shop in my library/office.  I've also dusted her off and cleaned her up.   Most of the messy parts of Confederacy are finished - all thats left is finishing the head rails, channels and deadeyes, and stump masts/anchors. I can always go saw in the garage if needed
     
    I'm a bit stuck on the headrails - the forward most timber is proving to be a bear.  So I may finish up the channels and deadeyes so I can glue all of the gunport lids (these guys get knocked around easily) and then revisit the head.  
     
    Im going on 6 years into this build as of end of November - really hoping to wrap it up this year.


  8. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from shipcarpenter in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale   
    With some care - Chucks Figurehead paints up nicely.  I'm hoping to get the rails and trailboards finally installed by the end of next week.


  9. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from michael mott in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale   
    At last the Shipyard re opens (well not the permanent one).  After getting estimates of building out my new workshop - I've decided to put that off until next year.  We have more pressing priorities with the house.  
     
    So I made a trip to Home Depot - bought a great new tool chest that locks (which is great for child proofing) and a desk from Ikea and have set up shop in my library/office.  I've also dusted her off and cleaned her up.   Most of the messy parts of Confederacy are finished - all thats left is finishing the head rails, channels and deadeyes, and stump masts/anchors. I can always go saw in the garage if needed
     
    I'm a bit stuck on the headrails - the forward most timber is proving to be a bear.  So I may finish up the channels and deadeyes so I can glue all of the gunport lids (these guys get knocked around easily) and then revisit the head.  
     
    Im going on 6 years into this build as of end of November - really hoping to wrap it up this year.


  10. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from CaptMorgan in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale   
    Thanks Ben, Rusty and Mark - here are the updated photos.  I will be adding the channels next in boxwood and dye their inverted knees with Fiebings black leather dye.  I will scratch the deadeye strops and chain plate assemblies (hoping to get a torch for Xmas), then its finishing the head rails and adding the stump masts/anchors and mounting her to a display board.  
     
    Yancovitch - I did not simulate caulking on the hull planking - not really a fan of that look - and most museum models do not show this detail.  You can see from the photos that the Tung Oil finish I used did accentuate the lines of the planking slightly - which was the effect I wanted. I  used a number 2 pencil to simulate caulking for the deck planking.  As far as treenailing - at this scale i didn't want to bother with it - I do think think the drilling and saw dust method would work well though if you want to go for it.  All planks were glued to each other and the bulkheads to try to get as tight of a result as possible.  Hope that helps - and thanks for the kind words!
     
    Happy Thanksgiving !
    Chris





  11. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from wyz in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale   
    Hey Group,
     
    Still plugging away on the fenders and I'm about finished with them - photos soon.  
     
    I'm considering finishing the WVH - she has sentimental value to me.  The first step would be to sand off the wipe on poly - paint the hull tallow below the waterline, and apply my tung oil/ bitumen mix to age the planking that will be not painted. 
     
    I've changed my mind so many times about my next project - so who knows (smile). 
     
    Chris

  12. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans   
    Congrats Danny !!!! What an accomplishment.
  13. Like
    ChrisLBren reacted to giampieroricci in L'Amarante 1749 by giampieroricci - FINISHED - 1:30 - French Corvette   
    I went a bit 'on with the work; I prepared all the beams of the bridge and its armrests. I also placed the hatches of the lower deck

     

     

     

     

     

     
     
     
    the gunwale

     

  14. Like
    ChrisLBren reacted to Jeronimo in THE 74-GUN SHIP by Jeronimo   
    Hello friends.
     
    Assembly of the deck transom and filling transoms on the fashion  piece.
     
     
    Karl  
     
     
     
    T e i l   1












  15. Like
    ChrisLBren reacted to mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED   
    Thanks for the "like", the comments and looking....
     
    Here's the current state...  
     
    The wale (wide) planking is complete on the port side.  Work is continuing on the starboard side.  I've temporarily tacked in place the garboard strakes in order to measure the remaining area for the "normal" planking strips.  I'm also sorting out how many battens I'll need...  I'm thinking probably 3 of about 8-10 planks between battens..
     
    At this point, I know I'm going to need drop planks and stealers since various monographs show them...  I'm assuming this was the normal method for the French ships and not the monograph author's but haven't been able to verify it.
     
    Click on the image to enlarge and as always ideas for improvement are welcomed.
     

     
     
  16. Like
    ChrisLBren reacted to giampieroricci in L'Amarante 1749 by giampieroricci - FINISHED - 1:30 - French Corvette   
    The mesh filter was incorrect: I redid the filter obtaining a brass rod

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  17. Like
    ChrisLBren reacted to Trussben in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM   
    So managed to get a couple of hours in the workshop on the holiday weekend, working on the framing at the stern, I have tried to keep the sizing and spacing of the timbers as close to the layout shown on the Cygnet DOF plan but with the positioning of the port from the Pegasus plan.
     
    ben

  18. Like
    ChrisLBren reacted to mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED   
    To quote Shakespeare's King Henry V: "Once more unto the breach, dear friends,"
    Or maybe Daniel (Dafi):   "Mass Destruction!!!! hihihihi!!!!"
     
    Bottom photo is the mod to be made... I need to arc more.   Planks are stripped, power sander and sanding sticks at the ready... 
     


     
     
  19. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in HMS Pegasus by Landlubber Mike - Amati/Victory Models - Scale 1:64   
    Hey Mike,
     
    Its just like double planking a hull - but in this case you lay your first layer of wales @ 1mm.  Its so much easier to line things up and get a proper run.  Then with the second layer you can use anchor stock planking or whatever joints you wish to simulate.  Dye or paint your wales then proceed with your single planking (no need to mask !) on the rest of the hull and the wale line stays neat and tidy.  Or in your case continue finish planking your hull to the keel.  You then can dye all the way to the waterline (dont worry about masking since you are coppering and you are good to go!)  You can be sloppy here since your copper tiles will be the waterline.  
     
    As far as your approach on staining and dyeing - its going to be tricky.  Both have a habit of running where you don't want it post installation of your planks. You can stain/dye the planks off the model but then you will always deal with possible glue spots/runs later or gaps between the planks you will need to fill. Thats why painting those areas or actually using wood the color you want to represent is so much more effective.  
  20. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Pegasus by Landlubber Mike - Amati/Victory Models - Scale 1:64   
    Dude this is why I told you to laminate the Wales (smile)
  21. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in HMS Pegasus by Landlubber Mike - Amati/Victory Models - Scale 1:64   
    Dude this is why I told you to laminate the Wales (smile)
  22. Like
    ChrisLBren reacted to AlexBaranov in HMS Cumberland 1774 by AlexBaranov - FINISHED - 1:36   
    several new photos








  23. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in 74 Gun Ship Complete Framing Supplemental Plans   
    If you're going to build 1/72nd go plank on bulkhead - full frame 1/48 or larger scale for best results (although I have heard you can go as small as 3/16). Personally I'm going to build full frame at 1/48 - as part of the deal for our new house - Ive got a big workshop !!!
  24. Like
    ChrisLBren reacted to tadheus in La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24   
    Continuation.
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
    The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
     
     
    http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
     
     
     
    Regards, Paul
  25. Like
    ChrisLBren got a reaction from Jack12477 in Workshop Set Up Question   
    Thanks for the feedback everyone - I had a contractor visit today and he gave me some ideas.  I think Im going to wall off both the area of the furnaces and the water heaters/storage area on the other side and just use the middle as my workshop which is actually large enough.  Im going to run some more boxes along the walls for power that will  then be dry walled and install lighting in the ceiling along with a box for a dust retrieval system.  It will cut down my dry wall cost and  maximize the useable space and seal everything else off.  
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